Figure-eight loop
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Figure-eight loop (also figure-eight on a bight, figure-eight follow-through, figure-eight retrace, Flemish loop, or Flemish eight) is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.
The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.
Tying methods
[edit]On a bight
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A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.
In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.<ref name=":1" />
Follow-through
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Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used.
- Tie a regular figure eight knot with a significant amount of extra tail.
- Loop the tail around the object.
- Thread the tail back through the figure eight to create a normal looking figure eight on a bight.
Climbing
[edit]This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.<ref name=":0">Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
Often an additional strangle knot (which is half of a double fisherman's knot) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Timothy W. Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs, Template:ISBN Rock climbing. Wilderness Education Association (U.S.) "There is great debate about whether the [Figure Eight] knot is finished at this point. Some people think stopping at this point is sufficient; others believe that since your life depends on this knot, you should back it up. ...The most common backup knot is a [strangle knkot]."</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref> This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=":2">Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> but could prevent ring-loading failure if belaying from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.<ref name=":0" /><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=":2" /> The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "Yosemite finish" or "Yosemite tuck".<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>
The diameter of the loop should be kept small to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while lead climbing.<ref name=":0" /> A well-dressed knot has a symmetrical appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.<ref name=":0" /><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>