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{{Short description|Peninsula in southern Cornwall, England}} {{About|the Cornish peninsula|the village of the same name on the peninsula|Lizard (village)}} {{Other uses|Lizard (disambiguation)}} {{Use British English|date=October 2013}} {{Use dmy dates|date=April 2024}} {{Coord|50|02|N|5|11|W|region:GB-CON_type:landmark_source:dewiki|display=title}} [[Image:Lizard point cornwall.jpg|thumb|[[Lizard Point, Cornwall|Lizard Point]]]] [[Image:Lizard Point.jpg|thumb|Lizard Point]] '''The Lizard''' ({{langx|kw|an Lysardh}}) is a [[peninsula]] in southern [[Cornwall]], England, United Kingdom. The [[Extreme points of the United Kingdom|southernmost point]] of the [[Great Britain|British mainland]] is near [[Lizard Point, Cornwall|Lizard Point]] at SW 701115; The Lizard, also known as Lizard village, is the most southerly region on the British mainland, and is in the [[civil parish]] of [[Landewednack]]. The valleys of the [[Helford River]], and the lake known as [[The Loe|Loe Pool]] form the northern boundary, with the rest of the peninsula surrounded by sea.<ref>Ordnance Survey: Landranger map sheet 203 ''Land's End'' {{ISBN|978-0-319-23148-7}}</ref><ref>Ordnance Survey: Landranger map sheet 204 ''Truro & Falmouth'' {{ISBN|978-0-319-23149-4}}</ref> The area measures about {{convert|14|x|14|mi|km}}. The Lizard is one of England's [[natural region]]s and has been designated as a [[National Character Area]] 157 by [[Natural England]].<ref>[http://publications.naturalengland.org.uk/publication/6949119 ''NCA Profile:157: The Lizard (NE434)''] at publications.naturalengland.org.uk. Accessed on 8 September 2013</ref> The peninsula is known for its [[geology]] and for its [[botany|rare plants]] and lies within the [[Cornwall National Landscape]], an [[Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty]] (AONB), also known as a ''National Landscape''.<ref name=lawman>{{cite book|last1=Lawman|first1=Jean|title=The Natural History of the Lizard Peninsula|date=1994|publisher=Institute of Cornish Studies and Dyllansow Truran|location=Redruth|isbn=1 85022 071 9|pages=120}}</ref> The Lizard's coast is particularly hazardous to shipping and the seaways round the peninsula were historically known as the "Graveyard of Ships". The [[Lizard Lighthouse]] was built at Lizard Point in 1752, and the [[Royal National Lifeboat Institution|RNLI]] operates [[the Lizard lifeboat station]]. ==Etymology== The name "Lizard" is most probably a corruption of the Cornish name "Lys Ardh", meaning "high court";<ref>{{cite book | last = Mills | first = A. D. | title = The Popular Dictionary of English Place-Names | year = 1991 | publisher = Parragon Book Service Ltd & Magpie Books | isbn = 0-7525-1851-8 | pages = 213}}</ref> it is purely coincidental that much of the peninsula is composed of [[serpentinite]]-bearing rock. The peninsula's original name may have been the [[Celtic languages|Celtic]] ''Bridanoc'', from ''Britannakon'' ("the "British one"), preserved in the name of the former village of Predannack, now site of [[Predannack Airfield]].<ref>[[Padel, O.J.]] "Cornish Place Names", page 146.</ref> ==History== There is evidence of early habitation with several [[burial mounds]] and stones. Part of the peninsula is known as the [[Meneage]] (land of the monks). [[Helston]], the nearest town to the Lizard peninsula, is said to have once headed the estuary of the [[River Cober]], before it was cut off from the sea by [[The Loe|Loe Bar]] in the 13th century. It is speculated that Helston was once a port, but no records exist.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.cornwall-calling.co.uk/gazetter-cornwall/helston.htm|title=Helston, Cornwall on the river Cober|website=cornwall-calling.co.uk}}</ref> [[Geomorphology|Geomorphologists]] believe the bar was most likely formed by rising sea levels, after the [[Last glacial period|last ice age]], blocking the river and creating a [[shoal|barrier beach]]. The beach is formed mostly of flint and the nearest source is found offshore under the drowned terraces of the former river that flowed between England and France, and now under the [[English Channel]].<ref>May, V.J. "Loe Bar". In May, V. J. and Hansom, J. D. (2003) ''Coastal Geomorphology of Great Britain'', (Geological Conservation Review Series, No. 28), 754 pp. Joint Nature Conservation Committee, Peterborough.</ref> The medieval port of Helston was at [[Gweek]], possibly from around 1260 onward, on the [[Helford River]] which exported [[tin]] and copper. Helston was believed to be in existence in the sixth century, around the [[River Cober]] (''Dowr Kohar'').<ref>A Short History of Helston – Helston History</ref> The name comes from the Cornish "hen lis" or "old court" and "ton" added later to denote a Saxon manor; the [[Domesday Book]] refers to it as Henliston (which survives as the name of a road in the town).<ref>[[Padel, O.J.]] "Cornish Place Names", p. 96.</ref> It was granted its charter by [[John, King of England|King John]] in 1201.<ref>Toy, "History of Helston"</ref> It was here that tin ingots were weighed to determine the duty due to the [[Duke of Cornwall]] when a number of [[stannary]] towns were authorised by royal decree.{{Citation needed|date=July 2014}} The royal manor of '''Winnianton''', which was held by King William I at the time of the [[Domesday Book]] (1086), was also the head manor of the [[Kerrier Hundred|hundred of Kerrier]] and the largest estate in Cornwall.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Conder|first1=Kelly|title=Notes From Members’ Evening 2011. Gunwalloe and King Dunvallo|journal=Cornwall Archaeological Society Newsletter|date=October 2012|issue=130|pages=3–4|url=http://www.cornisharchaeology.org.uk/index_htm_files/NL%20130.pdf|access-date=13 July 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714162942/http://www.cornisharchaeology.org.uk/index_htm_files/NL%20130.pdf|archive-date=14 July 2014}}</ref> It was assessed as having fifteen hides before 1066. At the time of Domesday there was land for sixty ploughs, but in the lord's land there were two ploughs and in the lands held by villeins twenty-four ploughs. There were twenty-four villeins, forty-one freedmen, thirty-three smallholders and fourteen slaves. There was {{convert|6|acre|m2}}, eight square leagues of pasture and half a square league of woodland. The livestock was fourteen unbroken mares, three cattle and one hundred and twenty-eight sheep (in total 145 beasts); its value was £12 annually. 11 of the hides were held by the [[Robert, Count of Mortain|Count of Mortain]] and there is more arable and pasture and 13 more persons are recorded: [[Rinsey]], [[Trelowarren]], [[Mawgan-in-Meneage]] and seventeen other lands are also recorded under Winnianton.<ref>Thorn, Caroline, et al. (eds.) ''Cornwall''. Chichester: Phillimore; entry 1,1</ref> [[Mullion, Cornwall|Mullion]] has the 15th century church of St Mellanus, and the Old Inn from the 16th century. The harbour was completed in 1895 and financed by Lord Robartes of [[Lanhydrock]] as a recompense to the fishermen for several disastrous pilchard seasons. [[File:Coverack, Cornwall, England 11Sept2017 arp.jpg|thumb|[[Coverack]] is a coastal village on the eastern side of the Lizard (2017)]] The small church of St Peter in [[Coverack]], built in 1885 for £500, has a serpentinite pulpit. The [[Great Western Railway]] operated a [[GWR road motor services|road motor]] service to the Lizard from [[Helston railway station]]. Commencing on 17 August 1903, it was the first successful British railway-run bus service and was initially provided as a cheaper alternative to a proposed [[light railway]]. The [[Solar eclipse of 11 August 1999]] departed the UK mainland from the Lizard. The transatlantic record run of the unaccompanied one hand sailor [[Thomas Coville]] within less than 5 days in his sailboat ''Sodebo Ultim'' from New York to Europe landed here on 15 July 2017.<ref>[http://orf.at/#/stories/2399462/ Segler stellt Rekord für Atlantik-Einzelüberquerung auf] orf.at, 16 July 2017, retrieved 16 July 2017 (German)</ref> ===Nautical=== The Lizard has been the site of many maritime disasters. It forms a natural obstacle to entry and exit of [[Falmouth, Cornwall|Falmouth]] and its naturally deep estuary. At Lizard Point stands the [[Lizard Lighthouse]], where a light was erected by [[John Killigrew (d.1584)|Sir John Killigrew]] at his own expense. It was built at the cost of "20 [[Noble (English coin)|nobles]] a year" for 30 years, and caused many problems over the following years, as King James I considered charging vessels to pass. Thus, the lighthouse was demolished. It was rebuilt in 1751 by order of [[Thomas Fonnereau]] and remains almost unchanged today. Further east lie [[The Manacles]], near [[Porthoustock]]: {{convert|1+1/2|sqmi|km2|0}} of jagged rocks just beneath the waves. * In 1721 the ''Royal Anne Galley'', an oared frigate, was wrecked at Lizard Point. Of a crew of 185 only three survived; lost was Lord Belhaven who was en route to take up the Governorship of [[Barbados]]. * A 44-gun frigate, {{HMS|Anson|1781|6}}, was wrecked at Loe Bar in 1807. Although it wrecked close to shore, many lost their lives in the storm. This inspired [[Henry Trengrouse]] to invent the rocket-fired line, later to become the [[Breeches buoy]]. * The transport ship ''Dispatch'' ran aground on the Manacles in 1809 on its return from the [[Peninsular War]], losing 104 men from the 7th Hussars. The following day, with local villagers still attempting a rescue, the [[brig-sloop]] {{HMS|Primrose|1807|6}} hit the northern end of these rocks. The only survivor of its 126 officers, men and boys was a drummer boy. * On 5 September 1856 the ''Cherubim'' and ''Ocean Home'' [[List of shipwrecks in September 1856#5 September|collided]] off Lizard Point * The {{SS|Mohegan}}, a {{GRT|6889}} passenger liner, also hit the Manacles in 1898 with the loss of 106 lives.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thelizard.co.uk/Welcome-small-map.html |title=Lizard Peninsula: Coverack and Area |publisher=Cornwall on line |access-date=11 March 2010}}</ref> * The American passenger liner ''Paris'' was stranded on the Manacles in 1899, with no loss of life. The biggest rescue in the [[RNLI]]'s history was 17 March 1907 when the 12,000-tonne liner {{SS|Suevic}} hit the Maenheere Reef near [[Lizard Point, Cornwall|Lizard Point]] in Cornwall. In a strong gale and dense fog RNLI lifeboat volunteers rescued 456 passengers, including 70 babies. Crews from the Lizard, [[Cadgwith]], [[Coverack]] and [[Porthleven]] rowed out repeatedly for 16 hours to rescue all of the people on board. Six silver RNLI medals were later awarded, two to ''Suevic'' crew members.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/cornwall/6439857.stm|title=Biggest RNLI rescue is remembered|date=11 March 2007|publisher=BBC News}}</ref> The [[Battle at the Lizard]], a naval battle, took place off the Lizard on 21 October 1707. Smuggling was a regular, and often necessary, way of life in these parts, despite the efforts of [[coastguard]]s or "Preventive men". In 1801, the king's [[pardon]] was offered to any smuggler giving information on the Mullion musket men involved in a gunfight with the crew of HM Gun Vessel ''Hecate''. ===Aeronautical=== {{unreferenced section|date=May 2019}} In the [[First World War]] a Naval Air Station, [[RNAS Mullion]],<ref>[https://www.heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=f54ae5d7-8b7c-4338-8f31-d635d57ff49b&resourceID=19191 RNAS Mullion] at [[Historic England]] research records; retrieved 31 March 2025</ref> was established at [[Bonython Manor|Bonython]], flying mainly [[blimps]] used for spotting [[U-boats]]. One was sunk and several probably damaged by bombs dropped by the blimps. The airfield site is now occupied by the wind farm. [[RAF Predannack]] was a [[Second World War]] airbase, from which [[Coastal Command]] squadrons flew anti-submarine sorties into the [[Bay of Biscay]] as well as convoy support in the western [[English Channel]]. The runways still exist and the site is used by a local Air Cadet Volunteer[[gliding]] Squadron 626VGS and as an emergency/relief base for [[RNAS Culdrose (HMS Seahawk)|RNAS Culdrose (HMS ''Seahawk'')]]. RNAS Culdrose is Europe's largest [[helicopter]] base, and currently hosts the Training and Operational Conversion Unit operating the [[EH101|EH101 "Merlin"]] helicopter. It is also the home base for Merlin Squadrons embarked upon [[Royal Navy]] warships, the [[Westland Sea King]] [[airborne early warning]] (AEW) variant helicopter, a Search And Rescue (Sea King, again) helicopter flight, and some [[BAe Hawk]] T.1 trainer jets used for training purposes by the Royal Navy. The base also operates some other types of fixed wing aircraft for calibration and other training purposes. As befits the base's name, a non-flying example of a [[Hawker Sea Hawk]] forms the main gate guardian static display. RNAS Culdrose is a major contributor to the economy of the Lizard area. ===Political=== [[File:CornwallMapOfParishesOnTheLizard.gif|thumb|Sketchmap of civil parishes on the Lizard]] The Lizard peninsula is in the [[St Ives (UK Parliament constituency)|St Ives parliamentary constituency]], which comprises the whole of the former district of [[Penwith]] and the southern part of the former district of [[Kerrier]]). The parishes northeast of the river Helford are in [[Camborne and Redruth (UK Parliament constituency)|Camborne and Redruth parliamentary constituency]] To the north, the Lizard peninsula is bordered by the [[civil parishes]] of [[Breage]], [[Porthleven]], [[Sithney]], [[Helston]], [[Wendron]], [[Gweek]] and – across the [[Helford River]] – by [[Constantine, Kerrier]] and [[Mawnan]]. The parishes on the peninsula proper are (west to east): * ''Northern parishes:'' ** [[Gunwalloe]] ** [[Cury]] ** [[Mawgan-in-Meneage]] ** [[St Martin-in-Meneage]] ** [[Manaccan]] ** [[St Anthony-in-Meneage]] * ''Southern parishes:'' ** [[Mullion, Cornwall|Mullion]] ** [[Grade-Ruan]] ** [[St Keverne]] ** [[Landewednack]] The Lizard's political history includes the 1497 [[Cornish Rebellion of 1497|Cornish rebellion]] which began in [[St Keverne]]. The village blacksmith [[Michael An Gof|Michael Joseph]] (Michael ''An Gof'' in Cornish, meaning blacksmith) led the uprising, protesting against the punitive taxes levied by [[Henry VII of England|Henry VII]] to pay for the war against the Scots. The uprising was routed on its march to London and the two leaders, Michael Joseph and [[Thomas Flamank]], were subsequently hanged, drawn and quartered. ===Technological=== [[Titanium]] was discovered here by the Reverend [[William Gregor]] in 1791. In 1869, John Pender formed the Falmouth Gibraltar and Malta Telegraph company, intending to connect [[India]] to England with an undersea cable. Although intended to land at Falmouth, the final landing point was [[Porthcurno]] near [[Land's End]]. In 1900 [[Guglielmo Marconi]] stayed at the Housel Bay Hotel in his quest to locate a coastal radio station to receive signals from ships equipped with his apparatus. He leased a plot "in the wheat field adjoining the hotel" where the Lizard Wireless Telegraph Station still stands today. Recently restored by the National Trust, it looks as it did in January 1901, when Marconi received the distance record signals of {{convert|186|mi|km}} from his transmitter station at [[Niton, Isle of Wight]]. The Lizard Wireless Station is the oldest Marconi station to survive in its original state, and is located to the west of the Lloyds Signal Station in what appears to be a wooden hut. On 12 December 1901 [[Poldhu#Marconi's Poldhu Wireless Station|Marconi's Poldhu Wireless Station]] at [[Poldhu Point]] was the site of the first [[Atlantic Ocean|trans Atlantic]], [[wireless|wireless signal radio communication]] when Marconi sent a signal to [[St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador|St John's]], [[Newfoundland]]. The technology is one of the key advances to the development of [[radio]], [[television]], [[satellites]] and the [[internet]].<ref>{{cite journal |editor1-last=Kirkham |editor1-first=Graham |editor2-last=Herring |editor2-first=Peter |title=Recent work by the Historic Environment Service, Cornwall County Council |journal=Cornish Archaeology Hendhyscans Kernow |url=https://issuu.com/cornwallarchaeologicalsociety/docs/no.41-42_2002-3 |date=2006 |volume=41–42 |issue=2002–3 |pages=170, 177–180 |publisher=Cornwall Archaeological Society |issn=0070-024X}}</ref> An [[early-warning radar]] station called [[RAF Dry Tree]] was built on [[Goonhilly Downs]] during [[World War II]]. The site was later chosen for the [[Telstar 1|Telstar]] project in 1962; its rocky foundations, clear atmosphere and extreme southerly location being uniquely suitable. This became the [[Goonhilly Satellite Earth Station]], now owned by Goonhilly Earth Station Ltd. Some important developments in television satellite transmission were made at Goonhilly station. A [[wind turbine|wind farm]] exists near to the Goonhilly station site. ==Geology== {{Main|Lizard complex}} [[File:LizardGeologyMapCornwall.jpg|thumb|Sketchmap of the Lizard geology]] Known as the [[Lizard complex]], the peninsula's geology is the best preserved example of an exposed [[ophiolite]] in the United Kingdom.<ref name="Strachan2014">{{Cite journal |last1=Strachan |first1=R.A. |last2=Linnemann |first2=U. |last3=Jeffries |first3=T. |last4=Drost |first4=K. |last5=Ulrich |first5=J. |date=2014 |title=Armorican provenance for the mélange deposits below the Lizard ophiolite (Cornwall, UK): evidence for Devonian obduction of Cadomian and Lower Palaeozoic crust onto the southern margin of Avalonia |journal=International Journal of Earth Sciences |volume=103 |issue=5 |pages=1359–1383 |doi=10.1007/s00531-013-0961-x|bibcode=2014IJEaS.103.1359S |s2cid=129361445 |url=https://researchportal.port.ac.uk/portal/en/publications/armorican-provenance-for-the-melange-deposits-below-the-lizard-ophiolite-cornwall-uk(4a4b76f5-4daa-4c31-a1c1-ec009abb8aeb).html }}</ref> An ophiolite is a suite of geological formations which represent a slice through a section of [[Oceanic crust|ocean crust]] (including the upper level of the [[Mantle (geology)|mantle]]) thrust onto the [[continental crust]]. The Lizard formations comprise three main units; the [[serpentinite]]s, the "oceanic complex" and the [[Metamorphic rock|metamorphic]] basement.<ref>Kirby, G. A. (1979). "The Lizard Complex as an ophiolite". ''Nature'', London, 282, pp. 58–61.</ref> The serpentinite contains significant samples of the [[serpentine subgroup|serpentine]] polymorph [[lizardite]], which were named after the Lizard complex in 1955.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mindat.org/min-2425.html|title=Lizardite: Mineral information, data and localities.|website=mindat.org}}</ref> ==Ecology== Several nature sites exist on the Lizard Peninsula; Predannack nature reserve, [[Mullion Island]], [[Goonhilly Downs]], and the [[Cornish Seal Sanctuary]] at [[Gweek]]. An area of the Lizard covering {{convert|16.62|km2|sqmi|}} is designated a [[national nature reserve (United Kingdom)|national nature reserve]] because of its coastal grasslands and heaths and inland heaths.<ref>{{cite web | url= http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/conservation/designatedareas/nnr/1006094.aspx | title=The Lizard NNR | publisher= [[Natural England]] | access-date=31 January 2010}}</ref> The peninsula contains 3 main [[Sites of Special Scientific Interest]] (SSSI), both noted for their endangered insects and plants, as well as their geology. The first is '''East Lizard Heathlands SSSI''', the second is ''[[Caerthillian to Kennack]] SSSI'' and the third is '''West Lizard SSSI''', of which the important wetland, [[Hayle Kimbro Pool]], forms a part of.<ref>{{cite web|title=East Lizard Heathlands|url=http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/2000126.pdf|publisher=[[Natural England]]|access-date=31 October 2011|year=1995}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=West Lizard|url=http://www.sssi.naturalengland.org.uk/citation/citation_photo/1000670.pdf|publisher=[[Natural England]]|access-date=31 October 2011|year=1995}}</ref> The area is also home to one of England's rarest breeding birds — the [[Cornish chough]]. This species of [[Corvidae|corvid]] is distinctive due to its red beak and legs and haunting "chee-aw" call. Choughs were extinct in Cornwall but returned naturally in 2001 and began breeding on Lizard in 2002 following a concerted effort by the [[National Trust]], [[English Nature]] and the [[RSPB]]. The Lizard contains some of the most specialised flora of any area in Britain, including many [[IUCN Red List|Red Data Book]] plant species. Of particular note is the [[Cornish heath]], ''Erica vagans'', that occurs in abundance here, but which is found nowhere else in Britain. There are more than 600 species of flowering plants on the Lizard, nearly a quarter of all UK species.<ref>"The Lizard Guidebook". pp. 21.</ref> The reason for this richness is partly because of the many different and unusual Lizard rocks on the Lizard Peninsula. But above all, it is a coming together of multiple factors: a very mild maritime climate, but one prone to gales and salt winds; waterlogged and boggy soils, but ones that often parch and dry out in the summer; soils of greatly contrasting fertility and pH; and lastly man's influence. Any single factor taken on its own would influence the flora; taken together, they combine, overlap and interact. Contrasting plant communities grow side-by-side in a mosaic that changes within a few metres but also changes markedly over time with the cycle of heath fires. It's not so much that conditions are ideal for growth, but that there is such a variety of different, difficult conditions. Each habitat, with its own combination of factors, attracts its own specialist plants.<ref>"The Lizard Guidebook". pp. 21–37.</ref> It is also one of the few places where the rare [[formicine]] [[ant]], ''[[Formica exsecta]]'', (the [[narrow-headed ant]]), can be found. ==In pop culture== [[Daphne du Maurier]] based many novels on this part of Cornwall, including ''[[Frenchman's Creek (novel)|Frenchman's Creek]]''. The Lizard was featured on the [[BBC]] television programme ''[[Seven Natural Wonders]]'' as one of the wonders of the South West, and on the BBC series ''[[Coast]]''. In [[James Clavell]]'s novel ''[[Shōgun (novel)|Shōgun]]'', ship's pilot Vasco Rodrigues challenges John Blackthorne to recite the latitude of the Lizard to verify that Blackthorne is the Pilot of the Dutch vessel ''Erasmus''. The Jennifer McQuiston 2015 novel ''The Spinster's Guide to Scandalous Behavior'' is set primarily in the fictional village Lizard Bay on the Lizard in the mid-nineteenth century. In the television adaptation of "[[Horatio Hornblower]]", an order is given to "[[Weather the Lizard]]" in the episode ''[[Mutiny (2002 film)|Hornblower:Mutiny]]''. "Lizard Point" is also a track on the 1982 album ''[[Ambient 4: On Land]]'' released by [[Brian Eno]]. The book series "Fenton House" by Ben Cheetham is set on the Lizard Peninsula. ==See also== {{Portal|Cornwall}} * [[Kynance Cove]] * [[Mullion Cove]] * [[Poldhu]] ==References== {{Reflist}} ==Further reading== {{Commons category}} * ''The Lizard Guidebook'' Friendly Guides (2019) {{ISBN|978-1-904645-50-4}} (has sections on the geology and plants of the Lizard as well as walks) * [[Nigel Tangye]] (1977) ''From Rock and Tempest''. London: William Kimber {{ISBN|0718303156}} (about shipwrecks round the Lizard peninsula) * Meneage and Lizard Oral History Group (ed.) (1980) ''Traditional Life in the Far South West''. (40 pp.) [N. pl.]: the Group {{SSSIs Cornwall biological}} {{SSSIs Cornwall geological}} {{Authority control}} {{DEFAULTSORT:Lizard, The}} [[Category:Lizard Peninsula]] [[Category:Peninsulas of Cornwall]] [[Category:National nature reserves in Cornwall]] [[Category:Nature Conservation Review sites]] [[Category:Special Areas of Conservation in Cornwall]] [[Category:Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Cornwall]] [[Category:Natural regions of England]]
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