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{{short description|Wardrobe and dress in general}} {{for|the Finnish magazine|Costume (magazine)}} {{Use dmy dates|date=December 2019}} [[File:Samurai actors.jpg|thumb|Actors in [[samurai]] costume at the [[Kyoto]] [[Toei Kyoto Studio Park|Eigamura]] film set]] '''Costume''' is the distinctive style of [[clothing|dress]] and/or [[cosmetics|makeup]] of an individual or group that reflects class, gender, occupation, ethnicity, nationality, activity or epochβin short, [[culture]]. The term also was traditionally used to describe typical appropriate [[clothing]] for certain activities, such as [[Riding habit|riding costume]], [[Swimsuit|swimming costume]], [[dance costume]], and [[evening gown|evening costume]]. Appropriate and acceptable costume is subject to changes in [[fashion]] and local cultural norms.<ref>{{cite book|title = The complete history of costume & fashion : from ancient Egypt to the present day|last = Cosgrave|first = Bronwyn|publisher = Checkmark Books|year = 2000|isbn = 0-8160-4574-7|location = New York|url-access = registration|url = https://archive.org/details/completehistoryo00cosg}}</ref> {{Quotation| "But sable is worn more in carriages, lined with real lace over ivory satin, and worn over some smart costume suitable for an afternoon reception." ''A Woman's Letter from London'' (23 November 1899).<ref>{{cite web|url = http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article14347822|title = A Woman's Letter from London|date = 31 December 1900|access-date = 12 October 2015|website = The Sydney Morning Herald |via=[[Trove]]}}</ref> }} This general usage has gradually been replaced by the terms "dress", "attire", "robes" or "wear" and usage of "costume" has become more limited to unusual or out-of-date clothing and to attire intended to evoke a change in identity, such as theatrical, Halloween, and mascot costumes. Before the advent of ready-to-wear apparel, clothing was made by hand. When made for commercial sale it was made, as late as the beginning of the 20th century, by "costumiers", often women who ran businesses that met the demand for complicated or intimate female costume, including [[Hatmaking|millinery]] and [[Corsetmaker|corsetry]].<ref name=Bishop>{{cite book|last1=Bishop|first1=Catherine|title=Minding her own Business β Colonial businesswomen in Sydney|date=2015|publisher=NewSouth Publishing|location=Sydney}}</ref> == Etymology == Derived from the [[Italian language]] and passed down through [[French language|French]], the term "costume" shares its origins with the word signifying fashion or custom.<ref name="etymdict">{{cite web |title=Costume |url=http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=costume |access-date=18 October 2015 |publisher=etymonline.com}}</ref> Variedly, the term "costume," indicating clothing exclusively from the eighteenth century onward, can be traced back to the Latin consuetudo, meaning "custom" or "usage."<ref>{{Cite web |title="In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute": The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, v. 45, no. 2 (Fall, 1987) - MetPublications - The Metropolitan Museum of Art |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/In_Style_Celebrating_Fifty_Years_of_the_Costume_Institute_The_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art_Bulletin_v_45_no_2_Fall_1987 |access-date=2023-12-30 |website=www.metmuseum.org |language=en}}</ref> == National costume == {{multiple image | direction = horizontal | image1 = King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck (edit).jpg | alt1 = |width1 =120 | image2 = Bhutanese_women_at_festival_wearing_Kira_and_Tego.jpg | footer = King of Bhutan in traditional dress and Bhutanese Women in traditional dress | alt2 = | width2 = 135 }} [[National costume]] or regional costume expresses local (or [[exile]]d) [[Identity (social science)|identity]] and emphasizes a culture's unique attributes. They are often a source of national pride.<ref name="EncNatDress">{{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lazWAQAAQBAJ&q=national%20costume%20identity%20pride&pg=PA266 | title=Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World | publisher=ABC-CLIO | date=19 April 2013 | access-date=17 October 2015 | author=Condra, Jill | page=266| isbn=9780313376375 }}</ref> Examples include the [[Scotland|Scottish]] [[kilt]], Turkish [[Zeybek (dance)|Zeybek]], or [[Japan]]ese [[kimono]]. In [[Bhutan]] there is a traditional national dress prescribed for men and women, including the monarchy. These have been in vogue for thousands of years and have developed into a distinctive dress style. The dress worn by men is known as [[Gho]] which is a robe worn up to knee-length and is fastened at the waist by a band called the [[Kera (clothing)|Kera]]. The front part of the dress which is formed like a pouch, in olden days was used to hold baskets of food and short dagger, but now it is used to keep cell phone, purse and the [[betel nut]] called ''Doma''. The dress worn by women consist of three pieces known as [[Kira (Bhutan)|Kira]], [[Toego|Tego]] and [[Wonju (Bhutan)|Wonju]]. The long dress which extends up to the ankle is Kira. The jacket worn above this is Tego which is provided with Wonju, the inner jacket. However, while visiting the [[Dzong]] or monastery a long scarf or stoll, called [[Kabney]] is worn by men across the shoulder, in colours appropriate to their ranks. Women also wear scarfs or stolls called [[Rachus]], made of raw silk with embroidery, over their shoulder but not indicative of their rank.<ref name=Council>{{cite web|url=http://www.tourism.gov.bt/about-bhutan/bhutanese-dress|title=Bhutanese Dress|access-date=17 October 2015|publisher=Tourism Council of Bhutan}}</ref> == Theatrical costume == {{Main|Stage clothes}} ''Costume'' often refers to a particular style of clothing worn to portray the wearer as a [[Character (arts)|character]] or type of character at a social event in a [[theatre|theatrical]] [[performance]] on the [[Stagecraft|stage]] or in film or television. In combination with other aspects of stagecraft, theatrical costumes can help actors portray characters' and their contexts as well as communicate information about the historical period/era, geographic location and time of day, season or weather of the theatrical performance. Some stylized theatrical costumes, such as [[Harlequin]] and [[Trousers|Pantaloon]] in the [[Commedia dell'arte]], exaggerate an aspect of a character. == Costume construction == A costume technician is a term used for a person that constructs and/or alters the costumes.<ref name=":0">{{cite web|url=https://theatre.uoregon.edu/costume-technician/|title=Costume Technician}}</ref> The costume technician is responsible for taking the two dimensional [[sketch (drawing)|sketch]] and translating it to create a garment that resembles the designer's [[Artistic rendering|rendering]]. It is important for a technician to keep the ideas of the designer in mind when building the garment.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/making-stage-costumes/|title=Making Stage Costumes|website=www.vam.ac.uk|language=en|access-date=2018-11-16|date=25 January 2011}}</ref> === Draping and cutting === Draping is the art of manipulating fabric directly on a dress form or body form as the first step to create a pattern. <ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.designersnexus.com/fashion-design-industry-information/what-is-fashion-draping/|title=What is Fashion Draping? And Why Should Designers Learn How to Drape?|date=2013-11-21|work=Designers Nexus|access-date=2018-11-18|language=en-US}}</ref> A body form can be padded to a person's specific measurements. Flat drafting is the art of drawing patterns onto paper based on measurements to create a pattern. Cutting is the act of tracing a pattern onto fabric and cutting out the pieces. These pieces are put together to create a final costume.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |url=http://www.stevenson.edu/academics/undergraduate-programs/fashion-design/blog-news-events/what-you-need-to-know-about-draping-as-a-fashion-design-student |title=What you need to know about draping as a fashion design student! {{!}} Stevenson University |website=www.stevenson.edu |access-date=2018-12-13}}</ref> In costuming, the person who creates a pattern is called a cutter/draper, and in fashion this person is more commonly called a pattern drafter, though both techniques may be used in both fields. Draping is especially useful with stretchy fabrics or bias cut garments as the maker can see how it will be effected by body curves and the pull of gravity. == Jobs == ;Costume designer: Designs and creates a concept for the costumes for the play or performance. ;Costume technician: Constructs and patterns the costumes for the play or performance.<ref name=":0" /> ;[[Wardrobe supervisor]]: Oversees the wardrobe crew and run of the show from backstage. They are responsible for maintaining the good condition of the costumes.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.ithaca.edu/hs/depts/theatre/handbook/crewheads/wardrobesup/|title=Wardrobe Supervisor Guidelines β Department Handbook β Ithaca College|website=www.ithaca.edu|access-date=2018-11-19|archive-date=21 November 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181121022215/https://www.ithaca.edu/hs/depts/theatre/handbook/crewheads/wardrobesup/|url-status=dead}}</ref> ;Milliner: Also known as a [[hatmaking|hatmaker]], responsible for the manufacturing of hats and headwear.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/education/fashion-az/millinery|title=Millinery {{!}} Fashion A-Z {{!}} BoF Education {{!}} The Business of Fashion {{!}} #BoFEducation|website=The Business of Fashion|language=en-GB|access-date=2018-11-18}}</ref> == Religious festivals == Wearing costumes is an important part of [[holidays]] developed from religious [[festival]]s such as [[Mardi Gras]] (in the lead up to [[Easter]]), and Halloween (related to [[All Hallow's Eve]]). Mardi Gras costumes usually take the form of [[jester]]s and other fantasy characters; [[Halloween costume]]s traditionally take the form of [[supernatural]] creatures such as [[ghosts]], [[vampires]], pop-culture icons and [[angels]]. [[File:Oldfashioned.jpg|thumb|A traditional, European-style [[Santa suit]]|260x260px]]Halloween costumes developed from pre-Christian religious traditions: to avoid being terrorized by evil spirits walking the Earth during the harvest festival [[Samhain]], the Celts donned disguises.<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |last=Thomas |first=Heather |date=October 26, 2021 |title=The Origins of Halloween Traditions |url=https://blogs.loc.gov/headlinesandheroes/2021/10/the-origins-of-halloween-traditions/ |website=Library of Congress}}</ref> In the eighth century, [[Pope Gregory VIII]] designated November 1 as All Saints Day, and the preceding days as All Hallows Eve; Samhain's costuming tradition was incorporated into these Christian holidays.<ref name=":3" /> Given the Catholic and pagan roots of the holiday, it has been repudiated by some Protestants.<ref name=":4">{{Cite web |last=Hall |first=Jordan |date=October 29, 2016 |title=Halloween β A religious holiday |url=https://www.sidneyherald.com/community/religion/halloween-a-religious-holiday/article_95f12b30-9e0a-11e6-876a-83b38cd8b35a.html |website=Sidney Herald}}</ref> However, in the modern era, Halloween "is widely celebrated in almost every corner of American life," and the wearing of costumes forms part of a secular tradition.<ref name=":4" /> In 2022, United States households spent an average of $100 preparing for Halloween, with $34 going to costume-related spending.<ref>{{Cite web |date=July 26, 2023 |title=Halloween Spending Reaches Frightening Levels in 2022 |url=https://www.consolidatedcredit.org/infographics/halloween-statistics/ |website=Consolidated Credit}}</ref> Christmas costumes typically portray characters such as [[Santa Claus]] (developed from [[Saint Nicholas]]). In Australia, the United Kingdom and the United States the American version of a [[Santa suit]] and [[beard]] is popular; in the Netherlands, the costume of [[Zwarte Piet]] is customary. Easter costumes are associated with the [[Easter Bunny]] or other [[costumed character|animal costumes]]. In [[Judaism]], a common practice is to dress up on [[Purim]]. During this holiday, Jews celebrate the change of their destiny. They were delivered from being the victims of an evil decree against them and were instead allowed by the King to destroy their enemies. A quote from the [[Book of Esther]], which says: "On the contrary" ({{langx|he|ΧΧ ΧΧ€ΧΧ ΧΧΧ}}) is the reason that wearing a costume has become customary for this holiday. Buddhist religious festivals in [[Tibet]], [[Bhutan]], Mongolia and [[Lhasa (prefecture-level city)|Lhasa]] and [[Sikkim]] in India perform the [[Cham dance]], which is a popular dance form utilising masks and costumes.<ref name="Pearlman">{{cite book|title=Tibetan Sacred Dance: a Journey into the Religious and Folk Traditions |first=Ellen |last=Pearlman |publisher=Inner Traditions / Bear & Co |year=2002 |pages=21, 32, 180 |isbn=0-89281-918-9 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JX-gKEJPszwC |access-date=16 October 2011}}</ref><ref name="Greenwood">{{cite book|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of World Folklore and Folklife: Southeast Asia and India, Central and East Asia, Middle East |volume=2 |first=William M. |last=Clements |publisher=Greenwood Press |year=2006 |isbn=0-313-32849-8 |pages=106β110 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZvrWAAAAMAAJ |access-date=16 October 2011}}</ref><ref name="Dance">{{cite web|url=https://dancehistorydevelopment.wordpress.com/2013/05/16/cham-dance-the-masked-ritual/|publisher=History and Development of Dance/ Brockport|title=Cham Dance: The Masked Ritual|date=16 May 2013|access-date=18 October 2015|work=World Press.com}}</ref> [[File:yakshagana vesha.jpg|thumb|upright|A costume used in [[yakshagana]], a theater art from [[India]]]] == Parades and processions == Parades and processions provide opportunities for people to dress up in historical or imaginative costumes. For example, in 1879 the artist [[Hans Makart]] designed costumes and scenery to celebrate the wedding anniversary of the Austro-Hungarian Emperor and Empress and led the people of Vienna in a costume parade that became a regular event until the mid-twentieth century. [[Uncle Sam]] costumes are worn on [[Independence Day (US)|Independence Day]] in the United States. The [[Lion dance|Lion Dance]], which is part of Chinese New Year celebrations, is performed in costume. Some costumes, such as the ones used in the [[Dragon dance|Dragon Dance]], need teams of people to create the required effect. == Sporting events and parties == Public sporting events such as [[fun run]]s also provide opportunities for wearing costumes, as do private [[masquerade ball]]s and [[fancy dress party|fancy dress parties]]. === Mascots === [[File:The Chief Firemouse, Mickey Mouse, Disney World (NBY 8235).jpg|thumb|The Chief Firemouse, Mickey Mouse, Disney World (NBY 8235)]] Costumes are popularly employed at sporting events, during which fans dress as their team's representative [[mascot]] to show their support. Businesses use mascot costumes to bring in people to their business either by placing their mascot in the street by their business or sending their mascot out to sporting events, festivals, national celebrations, fairs, and parades. Mascots appear at organizations wanting to raise awareness of their work. Children's Book authors create mascots from the main character to present at their book signings. Animal costumes that are visually very similar to mascot costumes are also popular among the members of the [[furry fandom]], where the costumes are referred to as [[fursuit]]s and match one's animal persona, or "[[fursona]]". === Children === Costumes also serve as an avenue for children to explore and role-play. For example, children may dress up as characters from history or fiction, such as pirates, [[princesses]], cowboys, or superheroes. They may also dress in [[uniform]]s used in common jobs, such as nurses, police officers, or firefighters, or as zoo or farm animals. Young boys tend to prefer costumes that reinforce stereotypical ideas of being male, and young girls tend to prefer costumes that reinforce stereotypical ideas of being female.<ref>{{cite book|title = Rituals and Patterns in Children's Lives|publisher = Popular Press|year = 2005|isbn = 978-0-299-20830-1|page = [https://archive.org/details/ritualspatternsi0000unse/page/225 225]|editor-last = Jackson|editor-first = Kathy Merlock|url = https://archive.org/details/ritualspatternsi0000unse/page/225}}</ref> === Cosplay === {{Main|Cosplay}} [[Cosplay]], a word of Japanese origin that in English is short for "costume display" or "costume play", is a performance art in which participants wear costumes and accessories to represent a specific character or idea that is usually always identified with a unique name (as opposed to a generic word). These costume wearers often interact to create a subculture centered on role play, so they can be seen most often in play groups, or at a gathering or convention. A significant number of these costumes are homemade and unique, and depend on the character, idea, or object the costume wearer is attempting to imitate or represent. The costumes themselves are often artistically judged to how well they represent the subject or object that the costume wearer is attempting to contrive. == Design == {{Main|Costume design}} [[File:University of Memphis Coed Cheerleaders.jpg|thumb|180px|A U.S. university's [[cheerleading]] group at a performance, wearing costume as per their gender.]] [[Costume design]] is the envisioning of clothing and the overall appearance of a character or performer. Costume may refer to the style of dress particular to a nation, a class, or a period. In many cases, it may contribute to the fullness of the artistic, visual world that is unique to a particular theatrical or cinematic production. The most basic designs are produced to denote status, provide protection or modesty, or provide visual interest to a character. Costumes may be for, but not limited to, theater, cinema, or musical performances. Costume design should not be confused with costume coordination, which merely involves altering existing clothing, although both processes are used to create stage clothes. === Organizations === The [[Costume Designers Guild]]'s international membership includes motion picture, television, and commercial [[costume designer]]s, assistant costume designers and costume illustrators, and totals over 750 members. The National Costumers Association is an 80 year old association of professional costumers and costume shops. === Publications === ''The Costume Designer'' is a quarterly magazine devoted to the costume design industry.<ref>{{cite journal |url=http://costumedesignersguild.com/magazine/ |title=Current Issue |journal=The Costume Designer |publisher=[[Costume Designers Guild]]}}</ref> === Notable designers and awards === [[List of costume designers|Notable costume designers]] include recipients of the [[Academy Award for Best Costume Design]], [[Tony Award for Best Costume Design]], and [[Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Costume Design]]. [[Edith Head]] and [[Orry-Kelly]], both of whom were born late in 1897, were two of Hollywood's most notable costume designers. == Industry == [[File:Children in Bulgarian national costumes.jpg|thumb|300px|Children in Bulgarian national costumes welcome guests during the Folklore Festival, Slivnitsa, Bulgaria.]] Professional-grade costumes are typically designed and produced by costume companies who can design and create unique costumes. These companies have often been in business for over 100 years, and continue to work with individual clients to create professional quality costumes. Professional costume houses rent and sell costumes for the trade. This includes companies that create mascots, costumes for film, TV costumes and theatrical costumes. Larger costume companies have warehouses full of costumes for rental to customers. There is an industry where costumers work with clients and design costumes from scratch. They then will create original costumes specifically to the clients specifications. == See also == {{portal|Theatre|Holidays|Fashion}} {{columns-list|colwidth=30em| * [[Best Costume Design (disambiguation)|Best Costume Design]] * [[Costumed character]] * [[Costume drama]] * [[Costume jewelry]] * [[Costume museum (disambiguation)|Costume museum]] * [[Dress code]] * [[Illusion costume]] * [[List of costume designers]] * [[Uniform]] * [[World Costume Festival]] *[[Mascot]]}} == References == {{Reflist}} == External links == {{commons category|Costumes}} *http://costumesocietyamerica.com/ *[http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/ The Costume Society, UK] *[http://www.costumers.org/ National Costumers Association] *{{cite EB1911 |wstitle=Costume |volume=7 |pages=224β248 |short=1}} {{Clothing}} {{Historical clothing}} {{Theatre}} {{Authority control}} [[Category:Costumes| ]] [[Category:Costume design]]
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