Editing Benbecula

{{Short description|Island of the Outer Hebrides, Scotland}}
{{about|the island|the record label|Benbecula Records}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2022}}
{{Infobox Scottish island
|GridReference      = NF807525
|coordinates        = {{coord|57.446|N|7.320|W|region:GB_type:isle_source:enwiki-osgb36(NF8152)|display=title, inline}}
|location_map       = Scotland Outer Hebrides
|caption            = Isle of Benbecula

 shown within the Outer Hebrides
|celtic name        = {{lang|gd|Beinn nam Fadhla}}
|gaelic pronunciation={{IPA|gd|peɲəˈvɤːlˠ̪ə||Beinn nam Fadhla.ogg}}
|norse name         = 
|meaning of name    = hill of the fords
|area               = {{cvt|8203|ha|sqmi|frac=8}}
|area rank          = 16
|highest elevation  = Ruabhal, {{cvt|124|m|ft|0}}<ref name=OS>{{Ordnance Survey}}</ref>
|Population         = 1,283<ref name=NRS>{{NRS1C}}</ref>
|population rank    = 11
|population density = {{cvt|15.9|PD/km2}}<ref name=NRS/><ref name="Smith"/>
|main settlement    = Balivanich<ref name=OS/>
|island group       = [[Uist]] and [[Barra]]
|local authority    = {{lang|gd|[[Na h-Eileanan Siar]]}}
|references         = <ref name="Smith">Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 236</ref><ref name="OS"/><ref name=IOB>{{cite web |url=http://www.isle-of-benbecula.co.uk/ |title=Welcome to Benbecula |publisher=Explore Scotland |access-date=19 August 2008 }}</ref>
|Image=Aird, Benbecula - geograph.org.uk - 3163152.jpg}}

'''Benbecula''' ({{IPAc-en|b|ɛ|n|ˈ|b|ɛ|k|j|ʊ|l|ə|audio=Benbecula.ogg}} {{respell|ben|BEK|yuul|ə}}; {{langx|gd|Beinn nam Fadhla}}<ref name="MacT1">{{cite web |last=Mac an Tàilleir |first=Iain |url= http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/vli/language/gaelic/vl-trans.htm#places |title=Placenames |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20101225005529/http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/vli/language/gaelic/vl-trans.htm#places |archive-date=December 25, 2010 |format=PDF |publisher=[[Scottish Parliament]] |date=20 August 2008 }}</ref> or {{lang|gd|Beinn na Faoghla}}<ref name=":0">{{cite web |url=http://www.gaelicplacenames.org/databasedetails.php?id=737 |title=Benbecula – Beinn na Faoghla |work=Ainmean-Àite na h-Alba – Gaelic Place-Names of Scotland – Database |access-date=2015-06-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150607061424/http://www.gaelicplacenames.org/databasedetails.php?id=737 |archive-date=2015-06-07 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name=":1">{{cite web|url=http://www.faclair.com/?txtSearch=Benbecula |title=Benbecula |work=Am Faclair Beag – Scottish Gaelic Dictionary |access-date=2015-06-06}}</ref>) is an island of the [[Outer Hebrides]] in the Atlantic Ocean off the west coast of Scotland. In the 2011 census, it had a resident population of 1,283 with a sizable percentage of Roman Catholics. It is in a zone administered by {{lang|gd|[[Comhairle nan Eilean Siar]]}} or the Western Isles Council. The island is about {{convert|12|km|mi|abbr=off|0}} from west to east and a similar distance from north to south. It lies between the islands of [[North Uist]] and [[South Uist]] and is connected to both by road causeways. Benbecula's main settlement and administrative centre is [[Balivanich]] ([[Scottish Gaelic]]: ''Baile a' Mhanaich'', meaning "Town of the Monk").

In 1746, [[Bonnie Prince Charlie]] was caught in a storm and forced to land on Benbecula. The population of Benbecula were sympathetic to the [[Jacobite rising of 1745|Jacobite]] cause, and smuggled him off the island to safety, as the [[The Skye Boat Song|song]] has it: "over the sea to Skye".

In 2006, local residents took control of parts of the island in a community buy-out. The previous landowners, a sporting syndicate, sold their {{convert|372|km2|acre|adj=on}} estate, which included Benbecula, South Uist and [[Eriskay]] for £4.5 million to a community-owned organisation known as Stòras Uibhist, which now manages the land in perpetuity.

==Language==
===Etymology===
The first written record of the name is as "Beanbeacla" in 1449.<ref>[http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/Benbecula.aspx#2-1O40:Benbecula-full "Benbecula"]. Encyclopedia.com quoting Mills, A.D. (2003) ''A Dictionary of British Place-Names''. Retrieved 16 April 2011.{{dead link|date=June 2015}}</ref> The names {{lang|gd|Beinn nam Fadhla}}<ref name="MacT1" /> and {{lang|gd|Beinn na Faoghla}}<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> are used in Scottish Gaelic today. All these names are assumed to derive from ''Peighinn nam Fadhla'' (pronounced {{IPA|gd|pʰe.ɪɲəmˈfɤːlˠ̪ə|}}) "[[pennyland]] of the fords" as the island is low-lying.<ref name=MacT/> ''Peighinn'' is very similar phonetically to the unstressed form of ''Beinn'' ({{IPA|[peɲ]}} "mountain", and appears to have been subject to [[folk etymology]] or re-analysis, leading to the modern forms containing ''Beinn'' rather than ''Peighinn''. Through a process of [[Language change|language assimilation]], the {{IPA|[mˈfɤːlˠ̪ə]}} sequence has resulted in the modern pronunciation of {{IPA|[vɤːlˠ̪ə]}}. The spelling variations ''faola'' and ''fadhla'' are due to [[phonetic merger]] of {{IPAslink|ɤ}} with {{IPAslink|ɯ}} in certain Gaelic dialects. Spelling variants include: ''Beinn a' Bhaoghla'', ''Beinn na bhFadhla'' and ''Beinn nam Faola''.{{original research inline|date=January 2020}}

The second element is a loan from [[Old Norse|Norse]] ''vaðil(l)'' "ford" which was borrowed as Gaelic ''fadhail'' ([[genitive]] ''fadhla'').<ref>Oftedal, M. ''The Gaelic of Leurbost'' Norsk Tidskrift for Sprogvidenskap 1956</ref> Through the process of reverse [[lenition]] ''fadhla'', with the ethnonymic suffix ''-ach'' has led to the formation of ''Badhlach'' "a person from Benbecula".

Other interpretations that have been suggested over the years are ''Beinn Bheag a' bhFaodhla'', supposedly meaning the "little mountain of the ford", ''Beinn a' Bhuachaille'', meaning "the herdsman's mountain"<ref name=Smith/> and from {{lang|gd|Beinnmhaol}}, meaning "bare hill".<ref>This last according to [[Alasdair Mac Mhaighstir Alasdair]]- see Robert Forbes (1895), ''The Lyon in Mourning: Or a Collection of Speeches, Letters, Journals Etc., Relative to the Affairs of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. Volume I'', Printed at the University Press by T. and A. Constable for the Scottish History Society. Page 326.</ref>

The island is also known in Gaelic poetry as ''An t-Eilean Dorcha'' "the dark island".<ref name="MacT1"/>

===Current language use===
Benbecula has historically been a very strong Gaelic-speaking area. In both the 1901 and the 1921 censuses, all parishes were reported to be over 75% Gaelic-speaking. By 1971, Benbecula and [[South Uist]] were classed as 50–74% Gaelic-speaking.<ref name=MacT>Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2004) {{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20101207211745/http://www.linguae-celticae.org/dateien/Gaelic_1901-2001.ppt  ''1901-2001 Gaelic in the Census'']}} (PowerPoint ) Linguae Celticae. Retrieved 1 June 2008.</ref>

It remains a relatively strong Gaelic-speaking area in spite of a continued decline. In the 2001 census, Benbecula overall had 56% Gaelic speakers. The weakest Gaelic-speaking area is [[Balivanich]], with only 37%. All other areas on Benbecula range between 74% (Lionacleit) and 62% (Gramsdale and [[Uachdar]]).<ref name=MacT/>

== Geology ==
In common with the rest of the [[Western Isles]], Benbecula is formed from the oldest rocks in Britain, the [[Lewisian gneiss]] which dates from the [[Archean|Archaean]] eon.  Some around Ruabhal is described as [[Scourian orogeny|Scourian]] gneiss of ortho-[[amphibolite]] composition. The direction of inclination of layered textures or [[Foliation (geology)|foliation]] in this [[metamorphic rock]] varies across the island. [[Pseudotachylite]]s are developed in certain areas whilst [[dike (geology)|dykes]] and [[metasediment]]s are noted at various localities.<ref>{{cite web |title=Uist and Barra (South) |url=http://www.largeimages.bgs.ac.uk/iip/mapsportal.html?id=1002540 |website=BGS large map images |publisher=British Geological Survey |access-date=3 February 2020}}</ref>
The island is traversed by numerous [[normal fault]]s most of which run broadly NW-SE though others run NNW-SSE. The Outer Hebrides Thrust, a legacy of the [[Caledonian orogeny]], lies just off the eastern coast of the island and is seen on neighbouring [[Wiay, Uist|Wiay]] and Marigaidh.  Recent geological deposits include [[Machair|blown sand]] which is found around [[Balivanich]] and the airport and [[peat]] which though widespread in pockets, is found in larger quantities in the centre of the island.<ref>{{cite web |title=Onshore Geoindex |url=https://mapapps2.bgs.ac.uk/geoindex/home.html |website=British Geological Survey |access-date=3 February 2020}}</ref>

==Geography==
[[File:UK Benbecula.PNG|left|thumb]]
[[File:Benbecula Beach.jpg|thumb|left|Beach (Cula Bay) on the west coast of Benbecula looking towards [[South Uist]]]]
The island is about {{convert|12|km|mi|abbr=off|0}} from west to east and a similar distance from north to south. It lies between the islands of [[North Uist]] and [[South Uist]]; it is connected to both by road [[causeway]]s. Travel to any of the other [[Hebridean]] islands, or to the British mainland, is by air or sea. [[Benbecula Airport]] on the island has daily flights to [[Glasgow]], [[Stornoway]] and [[Barra]]. A direct service to [[Inverness]] was introduced in 2006 but discontinued in May 2007. There are no direct ferry services from Benbecula to the mainland, but a service operated by [[Caledonian MacBrayne]] from [[Lochboisdale]] on [[South Uist]] provides a five-hour crossing to [[Oban]] on the mainland, whilst another service from [[Lochmaddy]] on [[North Uist]] provides a two-hour crossing to [[Uig, Snizort|Uig]] on the [[Inner Hebrides|Inner Hebridean]] island of [[Isle of Skye|Skye]], and hence to the mainland via the [[Skye Bridge]]. Ferry services from the islands of [[Berneray, North Uist|Berneray]] (linked by causeway to [[North Uist]]) and [[Eriskay]] (linked to [[South Uist]]) connect to the other Outer Hebridean islands of [[Harris, Scotland|Harris]] and Barra respectively.

There is a dense cluster of lochs across almost the entire island, and almost the whole island is below {{convert|20|m|ft|sigfig=1|abbr=off}} in elevation.

===Climate===
Benbecula has an extremely moderated temperate [[oceanic climate]] ([[Köppen climate classification|Köppen]]: ''Cfb ''), due to its island location. The nearest station to Benbecula is now South Uist, {{convert|18|mi|km|abbr=off}} away. However, a long-standing weather station used to report directly from Benbecula, where the highest temperature ever reported in the [[Western Isles]] was recorded at {{convert|81|F|C|order=flip}} on 30 July 1948.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://digital.nmla.metoffice.gov.uk/IO_7aa3bf68-127c-4331-96c0-3ec97b082120/|title=MWR_1948 &#124; Met Office UA}}</ref>
{{Weather box|location = South Uist Range, 1981–2010, elevation: {{cvt|13|ft|m|0}}, 1981–2010 normals
| collapsed    = 
| metric first = y
| single line  = y
| Jan high C = 7.7
| Feb high C = 7.2
| Mar high C = 8.2
| Apr high C = 10.2
| May high C = 12.9
| Jun high C = 14.6
| Jul high C = 16.1
| Aug high C = 16.1
| Sep high C = 14.9
| Oct high C = 12.2
| Nov high C = 9.8
| Dec high C = 8.1
| year high C = 11.5
| Jan mean C = 5.4
| Feb mean C = 5.1
| Mar mean C = 6.0
| Apr mean C = 7.7
| May mean C = 10.1
| Jun mean C = 12.2
| Jul mean C = 13.8
| Aug mean C = 13.8
| Sep mean C = 12.7
| Oct mean C = 9.9
| Nov mean C = 7.6
| Dec mean C = 5.9
| year mean C = 9.2
| Jan low C = 3.1
| Feb low C = 3.0
| Mar low C = 3.8
| Apr low C = 5.1
| May low C = 7.4
| Jun low C = 9.7
| Jul low C = 11.4
| Aug low C = 11.5
| Sep low C = 10.4
| Oct low C = 7.8
| Nov low C = 5.3
| Dec low C = 3.6
| year low C = 6.9
| Jan precipitation mm = 140.1
| Feb precipitation mm = 94.9
| Mar precipitation mm = 104.3
| Apr precipitation mm = 67.3
| May precipitation mm = 58.3
| Jun precipitation mm = 61.7
| Jul precipitation mm = 77.7
| Aug precipitation mm = 100.5
| Sep precipitation mm = 105.4
| Oct precipitation mm = 136.2
| Nov precipitation mm = 128.9
| Dec precipitation mm = 118.4
| year precipitation mm = 
| unit precipitation days = 1.0 mm
| Jan precipitation days = 20.6
| Feb precipitation days = 16.4
| Mar precipitation days = 19.8
| Apr precipitation days = 13.2
| May precipitation days = 11.6
| Jun precipitation days = 13.4
| Jul precipitation days = 14.0
| Aug precipitation days = 16.9
| Sep precipitation days = 15.4
| Oct precipitation days = 20.8
| Nov precipitation days = 21.3
| Dec precipitation days = 19.4
| year precipitation days = 
| source 1 = [[Met Office]]<ref name="Met Averages">{{cite web |url=https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/maps-and-data/uk-climate-averages/gf4wr9twt |title= South Uist 1981–2010 averages |access-date=1 February 2020|publisher=Met Office}}</ref>
}}

===Settlements===
Benbecula's main settlement is [[Balivanich]] ([[Scottish Gaelic]]: ''Baile a' Mhanaich'', meaning "Town of the Monk") in the northwest. It is the main administrative centre for Benbecula, North Uist, South Uist and nearby islands, and has the council offices and the administrative centre for [[MOD Hebrides]] on South Uist, which is managed by [[QinetiQ]]. The village is also home to the airport and the island's bank.

Other settlements include Craigstrome, a tiny hamlet in the south-east of Benbecula. In contrast to the cultivated west coast of the island, the eastern half is a mixture of freshwater lochs, [[moorland]], [[bog]] and deeply indenting sea lochs. Craigstrome is near Ruabhal, Benbecula's highest hill at {{convert|124|m|ft|0}}.

The township of Lionacleit houses the island's main secondary school, which also doubles as a community centre, with a swimming pool, cafeteria, sports facilities, a small museum and a library.<ref>[http://www.cne-siar.gov.uk/school/lionacleit/about_us.htm "Sgoil Lionacleit"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303230834/http://www.cne-siar.gov.uk/school/lionacleit/about_us.htm |date=2016-03-03 }} Comhairle nan Eilean Siar. Retrieved 4 July 2010.</ref> Next door to this is the Lionacleit campus of [[Lews Castle College]]. Lionacleit lies on the west coast road, about {{convert|1|mi|km|abbr=off}} from its junction with the north–south spinal road near Creagorry.

Creagorry is in the south of the island, near the causeway to South Uist. The [[The Co-operative Food|Co-op]] here is the main supermarket for the south of the island and for the north of South Uist. [[Borve Castle, Benbecula|Borve Castle]] is near Lionacleit.

The RAF radar station [[RRH Benbecula]] monitors the northern Atlantic, but is located on the west coast of North Uist.

===Nearby islands===
[[File:Loch Uisgebhagh.jpg|thumb|Islands in Loch Uisgebhagh. Bearran is at top right, Orasaigh, middle right and the peninsula of Meanais at top left.]]
In addition to South and North Uist, there are numerous islands off the north, east and south coasts. To the north of Balivanich is [[Baleshare]], and further east is [[Flodaigh]], which is connected to Benbecula by another causeway. Beyond Flodaigh are [[Grimsay]] and [[Ronay]]. Off the east coast there are numerous small islands in Loch Uisgebhagh and beyond, including Bearran and Orasaigh Uisgeabhagh. [[Eileanan Chearabhaigh]]<ref>At {{gbmapping|NF866476}}</ref> in the south east have a total area of {{convert|100|ha|acre}} spread over several islands, the largest of which is about {{convert|31|ha|acre}} in extent. Further south is the larger [[Wiay, Uist|Wiay]] and west from there a profusion of [[Skerry|skerries]] and small islands lie to the north of Bagh nam Faoileann. These include [[Fraoch-eilean]], a second [[Grimsay, South East Benbecula|Grimsay]], Fodragaigh, Eilean na Cille and Triallabreac.

==History==
===Early history===

[[File:Loch Ba Una - geograph.org.uk - 570971.jpg|thumb|Loch Ba Una{{refn|group="note"|The chambered cairns are located beyond the Loch.<!--of which there isn't a picture in commons!!!-->}}]]
A number of standing stones from the [[Neolithic]] period are scattered throughout the island, including the remains of a [[stone circle]] at Rubha Bhidein, adjacent to the traditional ford to [[Grimsay]].{{refn|group="note"|The modern causeway lands adjacent to the ford<!--yet there isn't a photograph of the circle in commons!-->}} In addition to these, the remains of two [[chambered cairn]]s lie between Loch Ba Una, and Loch nan Clachan. A [[Beaker People|Beaker]] site has been identified a Rossinish.

[[File:Loch Dùn Mhurchaidh - geograph.org.uk - 659531.jpg|thumb|left|Loch Dùn Mhurchaidh; Dun Buidhe is on the larger island in the distance.<!--again, there isn't a closer picture!!-->]]
The island is rich in built remains from the Iron Age, though they are generally in poor condition. A number of small [[Dun (fortification)|island forts]] can be found throughout Benbecula, particularly on [[Loch Olabhat]], but the most substantial is Dun Buidhe, near [[Balivanich]], which has a series of causeways linking it to the loch shore, via Eilean Dubh (''Black Island''); a [[Wheelhouse (archaeology)|wheelhouse]] was also present nearby{{refn|group="note"|The airport runway now lies on top of it}} (a better preserved wheelhouse survives on the adjacent island of Grimsay), at which Iron Age pottery was found.

At the shore near Dun Buidhne was found a Class 1 [[Pictish stone|Pictish symbol stone]], inscribed with two basic symbols<ref>{{Canmore|num=10189|desc=Benbecula, Strome Shunnamal}}</ref>{{refn|group="note"|The stone is now located in the Edinburgh [[Museum of Scotland]], ([https://i.pinimg.com/736x/40/3c/ee/403cee123bb89796d7ee37d306c1b77f--pre-history-a-rectangle.jpg as seen here]<!--there isn't an image in "Category:Pictish Stones at the Museum of Scotland" in commons, though-->)}} one of the only indications anywhere in the Outer Hebrides that [[Pict]]s had been present. Traditional accounts claim that [[Saint Ternan|Ternan]], an Irish missionary of the late 5th/early 6th century, established a chapel to the south of Dun Buidhe, from which he sought to convert the Picts to Christianity; Balivanich takes its name from this supposed establishment.

===Kingdom===

In the 9th century [[viking]] settlers established the [[Kingdom of the Isles]] throughout the Hebrides. Nevertheless, although evidence of viking settlement has been found in both North and South Uist, there has not yet been found any sign of viking settlement on Benbecula itself. Following Norwegian unification, the Kingdom of the Isles became a crown dependency of the Norwegian king; to the Norwegians the Kingdom was ''Suðreyjar'' (meaning ''southern isles''). [[Malcolm III of Scotland]] acknowledged in writing that Suðreyjar was not Scottish, and king [[Edgar, King of Scotland|Edgar]] [[quitclaim]]ed any residual doubts.

However, in the mid 12th century, [[Somerled]], a [[Norse-Gael]] of uncertain origin, launched a coup, which made Suðreyjar entirely independent. Following his death, Norwegian authority was nominally restored, but in practice the kingdom was divided between Somerled's heirs ({{lang|gd|[[Clann Somhairle]]}}), and the dynasty that Somerled had deposed (the [[Crovan dynasty]]). The [[Clann Ruaidhrí|MacRory]], a branch of Somerled's heirs, ruled Benbecula, as well as [[Uist]], [[Barra]], [[Eigg]], [[Rùm]], the [[Rough Bounds]], [[Isle of Bute|Bute]], [[Isle of Arran|Arran]], and northern [[Jura, Scotland|Jura]].<ref>''Kingship and Unity, Scotland 1000–1306'', G. W. S. Barrow, Edinburgh University Press, 1981</ref><ref>''Galloglas: Hebridean and West Highland Mercenary Warrior Kindreds in Medieval Ireland'', John Marsden, 2003</ref><ref>''Lismore: The Great Garden'', Robert Hay, 2009, Birlinn Ltd</ref><ref>''Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland'', 90 (1956–1957), A. A. M. Duncan, A. L. Brown, pages 204-205</ref><ref>''The Kingdom of the Isles: Scotland's Western Seaboard'', R. A. McDonald, 1997, Tuckwell Press</ref>

In the 13th century, despite Edgar's quitclaim, Scottish forces attempted to conquer parts of Suðreyjar, culminating in the indecisive [[Battle of Largs]]. In 1266, the matter was settled by the [[Treaty of Perth]], which transferred the whole of Suðreyjar to Scotland, in exchange for a very large sum of money.{{refn|group="note"|4000 marks}} The treaty expressly preserved the status of the rulers of Suðreyjar; the MacRory lands, excepting Bute, Arran, and Jura, became the ''Lordship of [[Garmoran]]'', a quasi-independent crown dependency, rather than an intrinsic part of Scotland.

===Lordship===
{{see also|Garmoran}}

At the turn of the century, [[William I of Scotland|William I]] had created the position of [[Sheriff of Inverness]], to be responsible for the Scottish highlands, which theoretically now extended to Garmoran.<ref>Dickinson W.C., ''The Sheriff Court Book of Fife'', Scottish History Society, Third Series, Vol. XII (Edinburgh 1928), pp. 357-360</ref><ref>''The Records of the Parliaments of Scotland to 1707'', K. M. Brown et al eds (St Andrews, 2007–2017), 15 July 1476</ref> In 1293, however, king [[John Balliol]] established the [[Sheriffdom of Skye]], which included the Outer Hebrides. Nevertheless, following his usurpation, the Skye sheriffdom ceased to be mentioned,{{refn|group="note"|in surviving records, at least}} and the Garmoran lordship (including Uist) was confirmed to [[Ruaidhrí Mac Ruaidhrí|the MacRury leader]]. In 1343, King [[David II of Scotland|David II]] issued a further charter for this to [[Raghnall Mac Ruaidhrí|the latter's son]].<ref>''Regesta Regum Scottorum VI'' ed. Bruce Webster (Edinburgh 1982) no. 73.</ref>

[[File:Borve Castle 20090609 from south west.jpg|thumb|Borve Castle]]
Just three years later{{refn|group="note"|1346}} the sole surviving MacRury heir was [[Amy of Garmoran]]. According to [[MacGibbon and Ross]], [[Borve Castle, Benbecula|Borve Castle]] (which they date to between 1344 and 1363) was built by Amy;<ref name=RCAHMS>{{Canmore|num=9962|desc=Benbecula, Borve Castle|access-date=2021-10-29|fewer-links=yes}}</ref> it became the main power seat of power in Benbecula and surrounding islands of North and South Uist. Amy is also reported to have built ''the parish church of St. Columba on Benbecula''; the eastern side of [[Teampul Chalumchille]], an ancient chapel dedicated to St Columba, dates to her lifetime.{{refn|group="note"|Other parts are more recent}}<ref>''Clan Donald'', Donald J MacDonald, MacDonald Publishers (of Loanhead, Midlothian), 1978, p.448</ref>

The southern parts of the Kingdom of the Isles had become the ''[[Lordship of the Isles]]'', ruled by the [[Clan Donald|MacDonald]]s (another group of Somerled's descendants). Amy married the MacDonald leader, [[John of Islay, Lord of the Isles|John of Islay]], but a decade later he divorced her, and married the king's niece instead (in return for a substantial [[dowry]]). As part of the divorce, John deprived his eldest son, [[Ranald MacDonald (founder of Clanranald)|Ranald]], of the ability to inherit the Lordship of the Isles, in favour of a son by his new wife. As compensation, John granted Lordship of North Uist and South Uist (presumably including Benbecula) to Ranald's younger brother Godfrey, and made Ranald Lord of the remainder of Garmoran.

However, on Ranald's death, his sons were still children, and Godfrey took the opportunity to seize the Lordship of Garmoran. This led to a great deal of violent conflict involving Godfrey's family (the [[Siol Gorrie]]) and the heirs of Ranald ([[Clan Ranald]]) and his other brother Murdoch (the [[Siol Murdoch]]). {{refn|group="note"|Surviving records do not describe this in detail}} In 1427, frustrated with the level of violence generally in the highlands, King [[James I of Scotland|James I]] demanded that highland magnates should attend a meeting at [[Inverness]]. On arrival, many of the leaders were seized and imprisoned. Alexander MacGorrie, son of Godfrey, was considered to be one of the two most reprehensible, and after a quick [[showtrial]], was immediately executed.<ref name="G65">{{Citation | author1=Gregory, Donald | title=History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland, from A.D. 1493 to A.D. 1625, with a brief introductory sketch, from A.D. 80 to A.D. 1493 | year=1836 | publisher=Edinburgh, W. Tait | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=DaoHAAAAQAAJ | access-date=11 May 2012 }}, p. 65</ref> As Alexander had by now inherited Godfrey's [[de facto]] position as Lord of Garmoran, and in view of Ranald's heirs being no less responsible for the violence, King James declared the Lordship forfeit.

===Lairdship===
[[File:Loch Langabhat - geograph.org.uk - 855859.jpg|thumb|View over Loch Langabhat]]
Following the forfeiture, most of Garmoran (including Benbecula) remained with the Scottish crown until 1469, when [[James III of Scotland|James III]] granted Lairdship of it to [[John of Islay, Earl of Ross|John of Ross]], the Lord of the Isles. In turn, John passed it to his own half-brother, [[Hugh of Sleat]]; the grant to Hugh was confirmed by the king – [[James IV of Scotland|James IV]] – in a 1493 charter.

Hugh died a few years later, in 1498, and for reasons that are not remotely clear, his son John of Sleat immediately resigned, transferring all authority to the king. That same year, king [[James IV of Scotland|James IV]] awarded Benbecula to Angus ''Reochson'', son of Ranald's penultimate son, Angus ''Riabhach''.<ref name="AAMacDonald">Angus & Archibald Macdonald. ''The Clan Donald'' volume 3: ''Inverness'', The Northern Counties Publishing Company Ltd, 1900.</ref><ref name="JMacDonald">''Clan Donald'', Donald J MacDonald, MacDonald Publishers (of Loanhead, Midlothian), 1978, p.426</ref>{{refn|group="note"|[[Scottish Gaelic|Gaelic]] for ''freckled''. It was pronounced somewhat like the English ''Reohh'', hence ''Reochson'' for his son}} Angus' son, Angus ''MacAngus Rewing'',{{refn|group="note"|meaning ''son of Angus Reoh-on'' (ie. of Angus ''Reochson'')}} became a friar at [[Iona]], and was succeeded by his son John.{{refn|group="note"|As a friar, Angus was legally unable to own land; he did not die until 1540, two years after his son<ref name="AAMacDonald" />}} John died in 1538, without any [[legitimacy (family law)|lawful children]]; under the charter, this demise of Angus Riabhach's line{{refn|group="note"|gaelic:''Silocht Aonghais Ruabhaig''}} meant that ownership of Benbecula returned to the King.<ref name="AAMacDonald" />

In 1538, therefore, the king granted lairdship of Benbecula<ref>''Red Book of Clanranald'', edited by A. MacBain & J. Kennedy, 1894, Northern Counties Publishing, page 169</ref> to Allan and Lachlan MacDonald (jointly),<ref>''Register of the Privy Seal of Scotland'', edited by M. Livingstone, 1908, HM General Register House, volume II, entry 378</ref> the grandsons of [[Ranald Bane]]. Ordinarily, Allan would have been the head of Clan Ranald, but the extreme cruelty of his father,{{refn|group="note"|which records do not report in detail}} Dougall, led to Ranald Bane's descendants being officially barred from the succession; instead leadership of the Clan now rested with Ranald Bane's nephew, John Moidartach.{{refn|group="note"|''Moidartach'' refers to [[Moidart]]}}

In 1549, [[Donald Monro (Dean)|Donald Monro]], Dean of the Isles wrote of the "south part of Ywst" and went on:
<blockquote>and in the north syde of this there is ane parochin callit Buchagla,{{refn|group="note"|"Buchagla" is a reference to Benbecula and Beandmoyll, Beanweall, and Benvalgha are other variants found in charters.<ref>MacLuachlan, Rev. Thomas. "On the Kymric Element in the Celtic Topography of Scotland".  (Jan 1866) ''Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland''. '''VI''' p. 318</ref>}} perteining to the said Clandonald. At the north end thereof the sea cuts the countrey againe, and that cutting of the sea is called Careynesse, and benorth this countrey is called Kenehnache of Ywst, that is in Englishe, the north head of Ywst.<ref>Monro (1549) "Ywst" No. 154</ref>
</blockquote>

===Tenancy===
In 1596, concerned by the active involvement of Highland leaders in Irish rebellions against [[Elizabeth I of England|Queen Elizabeth of England]], King [[James VI of Scotland]] (Elizabeth's heir) demanded that Highland leaders send well-armed men, as well as attending themselves, to meet him at [[Dumbarton]] on 1 August, and produce the charters for their land. As Allan's heirs did not do so, Benbecula became forfeit, by Act of Parliament. The king then awarded Benbecula to Donald Gorm Mor, the heir of Hugh of Sleat, as a reward for being one of the few Highland leaders who had obeyed the king's summons.<ref>''Register of the Great Seal of Scotland'', edited by Maitland Thomson, 1912, HM General Register House, volume VI, entry 161</ref>

Donald Gorm Mor [[subinfeudation|subinfeudated]] Benbecula to Clan Ranald for £46 per annum. In 1622, however, his successor, Donald Gorm Og,{{refn|group="note"|''Og'' means "the younger"}} is found requesting that the Privy Council physically punish the Clan Ranald leadership for not removing their families and tenants from Benbecula;<ref>''Register of the Privy Council of Scotland'', edited by I Hill-Burton, 1877, HM General Register House, volume XIII, 741-742</ref> presumably they had not been paying the rent.<ref>Angus & Archibald Macdonald. ''The Clan Donald'' volume 2, The Northern Counties Publishing Company Ltd, 1900, p. 320</ref>

In 1633, Donald Gorm Og decided to sell the lairdship of Benbecula to [[Archibald Campbell, 7th Earl of Argyll|the Earl of Argyll]];{{refn|group="note"|for 26,921 marks, 10 shillings, and 8 pence}} in January 1634, this arrangement was confirmed by a Crown charter.<ref>Angus & Archibald Macdonald. ''The Clan Donald'' volume 2, The Northern Counties Publishing Company Ltd, 1900, p. 324</ref> In 1661, as a leading opponent of king [[Charles I of Scotland|Charles I]], the Earl's son – [[Archibald Campbell, 1st Marquess of Argyll|the Marquess of Argyll]] – was convicted of high treason, and his lands became forfeit. Thus, in 1673, it was the king demanding that Clan Ranald pay their outstanding rent for Benbecula.<ref>Angus & Archibald Macdonald. ''The Clan Donald'' volume 2, The Northern Counties Publishing Company Ltd, 1900, p. 339</ref>
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===Refuge===

[[File:Flora MacDonald (1722-1790), by Richard Wilson.jpg|thumb|Flora MacDonald in 1747]]
In 1746, [[Flora MacDonald]] was the chief of Clan Ranald during the [[Tenant-in-chief#Heirs|feudal ward]]s. She was a distant relative of two of the companions of [[Bonnie Prince Charlie]] (Prince Charles Edward Stuart), who had recently fled in the aftermath of the [[Battle of Culloden]]. During his voyage, the Prince's boat was caught in a storm, and he was forced to land on Benbecula. Despite mainly being [[Presbyterian]], Flora and the population of Benbecula were sympathetic to the [[Jacobite rising of 1745|Jacobite]] cause, and the Prince and his companions received hospitable treatment. Nevertheless, the Prince was a fugitive with a price on his head,{{refn|group="note"|£30,000}} and his companions therefore sought out Flora. She disguised him as an Irish spinning maid, ''Betty Burke'', and by this means smuggled him off the island, on 27 June, and took him "over the sea to Skye".{{refn|group="note"|hence, [[The Skye Boat Song]]}} Flora was arrested upon her return to Scotland, but was released following the [[Indemnity Act 1747]]. Later, she explained in person to [[George II of Great Britain|the King]]'s son, [[Frederick, Prince of Wales|Prince Frederick]],{{refn|group="note"|father of [[George II of Great Britain|George III]]}} that she had only acted out of charity, and would have done the same for either side.

===Eviction===
[[File:Deserted Croft at Sidhean Rossinish - geograph.org.uk - 1468420.jpg|thumb|left|Abandoned house on Benbecula]]
In the early 19th century, the leader of Clan Ranald, Ranald George MacDonald, got into severe financial difficulties. The [[trust fund|family trust]] forbade him from even visiting Benbecula. His difficulties were compounded by the enormous debts which had been amassed by his grandfather, in support of Jacobite armies.{{refn|group="note"|Although an act of attainder was passed against his grandfather, it had no consequences for him or his estates, due to accidentally referring to him as ''Donald'' rather than as ''Ranald'', his actual name}} In 1838, forced to sell his lands, Ranald sold them to [[John Gordon (soldier)|Colonel John Gorden of Cluny]].

Already accustomed to [[Sugar plantations in the Caribbean|treating people as slaves]], and seeing the financial advantages to livestock farming, Gordon was ruthless, evicting the population with short notice, sometimes even resorting to dragging them to the shore in handcuffs, wearing little more than their undergarments. He replaced the residents with sheep. Despite his behaviour causing a national outcry, it was continued by the widow of his son, well into the early 20th century.{{refn|group="note"|Following her second marriage, she became better known as Lady Emily Gordon Cathcart}}

==Modern island life==
[[File:Benbecula Fish Cages.jpg|thumb|Fish cages]]
In 2001 the census recorded a population of 1,219<ref>{{GRO10}}</ref> the 2011 total of 1,303 being an increase of 7% against an average of 3% for all Scottish islands.<ref name=NRS/>

A contributor to the economy is [[RRH Benbecula]]. The site near Balvanich also includes [[Benbecula Airport]], with regular flights to Glasgow, Inverness, and Stornoway.

===Community buy-out===
After a protracted campaign, local residents took control of parts of the island on 30 November 2006 in a community buy-out. The previous landowners, a sporting syndicate, sold the assets of the {{convert|372|km2|acre|adj=on}} estate including Benbecula, South Uist and [[Eriskay]] for £4.5 million to a community-owned organisation known as Stòras Uibhist which was set up to purchase the land and to manage it in perpetuity.<ref>{{cite news| url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/highlands_and_islands/6195966.stm| title=Land buyout reality for islanders| work=[[BBC News]]| date=30 November 2006 | access-date=4 January 2010}}</ref><ref>[http://www.storasuibhist.com/index.php "Stòras Uibhist: Going Forward Together"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060629104706/http://www.storasuibhist.com/index.php |date=2006-06-29 }} storasuibhist.com. Retrieved 26 June 2010.</ref><ref>''The quiet revolution''. (19 January 2007) Broadford. ''West Highland Free Press''.</ref>

==Mythology==

A local myth states that a [[mermaid]], discovered in 1830, is reportedly buried near the sea on Benbecula.<ref>{{cite web |title=1830: Mermaid near Benbecula, Outer Hebrides, Scotland - Think AboutIt |date=8 April 2013 |url=http://www.thinkaboutitdocs.com/1830-mermaid-near-benbecula-outer-hebrides-scotland/ |publisher=Think AboutIt |access-date=29 July 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=The myth of the Hebridean mermaid - The Scotsman |url=https://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle-2-15039/the-myth-of-the-hebridean-mermaid-1-4073947 |publisher=The Scotsman |access-date=10 September 2019 }}</ref>

== See also ==
{{Portal|Scottish islands}}
* [[List of islands of Scotland]]

==Notes==
{{reflist|group="note"}}

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

==Bibliography==
* [[Donald Gregory|Gregory, Donald]] (1881) ''The History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland 1493–1625.'' Edinburgh. Birlinn. 2008 reprint – originally published by Thomas D. Morrison. {{ISBN|1-904607-57-8}}
*{{Haswell-Smith}}
*{{Monro}}

==External links==
*[http://www.sgoillionacleit.org.uk/ Sgoil Lionacleit]
*[http://www.isle-of-benbecula.co.uk Explore Benbecula]
*[http://www.ampaipear.org.uk Am Paipear Community Newspaper]
*[http://www.islandnewsandadvertiser.co.uk Island News and Advertiser Popular Free Newspaper]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20110322220014/http://www.uist.co.uk/ Benbecula Community News, Tourism and Local Benbecula Events]
{{oscoor gbx|NF8152}}
*{{Wikivoyage inline|Benbecula}}

{{hebrides}}
{{Islands of Scotland}}

{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Benbecula| ]]
[[Category:Uist islands]]
[[Category:Community buyouts in Scotland]]
[[Category:Highland Estates]]
[[Category:Military training areas in the United Kingdom]]