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==== Private adventurer arrived in Old Herzegovina and discovered Roman city near Pljevlja ==== After resolving to leave Göttingen, Evans and Lewis planned to spy against the [[Principality of Montenegro]] in the rebellious mountain village of [[Bobovo, Pljevlja]] at the time of their journey the strongest point of resistance in triple mountain ranges of [[Ljubišnja]] and [[Tara River Canyon|Tara gorges]]. During the struggle in Bobovo on 15 August 1875 during the [[Herzegovina uprising (1875–1877)]] they were expelled from Province of [[Pljevlja]] by the Ottoman authorities and went to board a ship in the city of [[Dubrovnik]] via Pljevlja, a city with a large settlement from the [[Heritage museum Pljevlja|Roman]] period, which Evans named as the Municipium S.{{citation needed|date=October 2023}} They knew that the region, a part of the [[Ottoman Empire]], was under [[martial law]] and that the Christians were in a state of insurrection against the Muslim [[bey]]s placed over them. Some Ottoman troops were in the country in support of the beys, but mainly the beys were using irregular forces, the [[bashi-bazouks]], loosely attached to the Ottoman military. Their notorious cruelty, which they practised against the natives, helped to turn the British Empire under [[W. E. Gladstone]] against the Ottoman Empire, as well as to attract Russian intervention at [[Principality of Serbia|Serbian]] request. At the time of Evans' and Lewis' initial adventure, the Ottomans were still trying to lessen the threat of intervention by placating their neighbours. Evans sought and obtained permission to travel in [[Bosnia and Herzegovina|Bosnia]] from its Ottoman military governor.{{citation needed|date=October 2023}} The two brothers experienced little difficulty with either the Serbs or the Ottomans but they did provoke the neighbouring [[Austro-Hungarian Empire]] and spent a night in "a wretched cell". After deciding to lodge in a good hotel in [[Slavonski Brod]] on the border, having judged it safer than [[Bosanski Brod]] across the [[Sava]] River, they were observed by an officer who saw their sketches and concluded they might be Russian spies. Politely invited by two other officers to join the police chief and produce passports, Evans replied, "Tell him that we are Englishmen and are not accustomed to being treated in this way". The officers insisted and, interrupting the chief at dinner, Evans suggested he should have come to the hotel in person to request the passports. The chief, in a somewhat less than civil manner, won the argument about whether he had the right to check the passports of Englishmen by inviting them to spend the night in a cell.<ref>{{harvnb|Evans|1876|pp=80–81}}</ref> On the way to the holding cell the two young men were followed by a large crowd, whom Evans lost no opportunity to harangue, even though they understood only German. He threatened the authorities in the name of the British fleet, which, he asserted, would sail up the Sava river. He demanded the mayor, offered the jailer a bribe for food and water, but went into the cell unfed and without water. Meanwhile, the incident came to attention of Dr Makanetz, leader of the National Party of the Croatian Assembly, who happened to be in Brod. The next day he complained to the mayor. Evans and his brother were released with profuse apologies.<ref>{{harvnb|Evans|1876|pp=82–84}}</ref> They crossed the Sava into Bosnia, which Evans found so different that he regarded the Sava as the border between Europe and Asia. After a number of interviews with Ottoman officials who attempted to dissuade them from travel on foot, the passport from the pasha prevailed. They were given an escort – one man, enough to establish authority – as far as [[Derventa]]. From there they travelled directly south to [[Sarajevo]] and from there to [[Dubrovnik]] (Ragusa) on the coast, in [[Dalmatia]]. In Sarajevo they learned that the region through which they had just passed was now "plunged in civil war".<ref>{{harvnb|Evans|1876|p=235}}</ref>
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