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===Medieval Europe=== [[File:Mendel I 004 v.jpg|thumb|upright=0.85|Weaver, [[Nürnberg]], {{Circa|1425}}]] The predominant [[fibre]] in Europe during the [[Medieval Period|medieval period]] was [[wool]], followed by [[linen]] and [[Urtica dioica|nettlecloth]] for the lower classes. [[Cotton]] was introduced to [[Sicily]] and [[Spain]] in the 9th century. When Sicily was captured by the [[Normans]], they took the technology to [[Northern Italy]] and then the rest of Europe. [[Silk]] fabric production was reintroduced towards the end of this period and the more sophisticated silk weaving techniques were applied to the other staples.<ref name="pabacker">{{Harvnb|Backer|2005}}.</ref> The weaver worked at home and marketed his cloth at [[trade fair|fairs]].<ref name="pabacker"/> [[Warp-weighted loom]]s were commonplace in Europe before the introduction of horizontal looms in the 10th and 11th centuries. Weaving became an urban craft and to regulate their trade, craftsmen applied to establish a [[guild]]. These initially were [[merchant guild]]s, but developed into separate [[trade guild]]s for each skill. The cloth merchant who was a member of a city's weavers guild was allowed to sell cloth; he acted as a middleman between the tradesmen weavers and the purchaser. The trade guilds controlled quality and the training needed before an artisan could call himself a weaver.<ref name="pabacker"/> By the 13th century, an organisational change took place, and a system of [[Putting-out system|putting out]] was introduced. The cloth merchant purchased the wool and provided it to the weaver, who sold his produce back to the merchant. The [[Merchant capitalism|merchant]] controlled the rates of pay and economically dominated the cloth industry.<ref name="pabacker"/> The merchants' prosperity is reflected in the wool towns of eastern England; [[Norwich]], [[Bury St Edmunds]] and [[Lavenham]] being good examples. Wool was a political issue.<ref name=BHO> {{cite web |url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=33013 |title=The estate of merchants, 1336–1365: IV – 1355–65 |editor=Unwin, George |publisher=Institute of Historical Research |year=1918 |work=Finance and trade under Edward III: The London lay subsidy of 1332 |access-date=18 November 2011 }}</ref> The supply of thread has always limited the output of a weaver. About that time, the spindle method of spinning was replaced by the great wheel and soon after the treadle-driven [[spinning wheel]]. The loom remained the same but with the increased volume of thread it could be operated continuously.<ref name="pabacker"/> The 14th century saw considerable flux in population. The 13th century had been a period of relative peace; Europe became overpopulated. Poor weather led to a series of poor harvests and starvation. There was great loss of life in the [[Hundred Years War]]. Then in 1346, Europe was struck with the [[Black Death]] and the population was reduced by up to a half. Arable land was labour-intensive and sufficient workers no longer could be found. Land prices dropped, and land was sold and put to sheep pasture. Traders from [[Florence]] and [[Bruges]] bought the wool, then sheep-owning landlords started to weave wool outside the jurisdiction of the city and trade guilds. The weavers started by working in their own homes then production was moved into purpose-built buildings. The working hours and the amount of work were regulated. The putting-out system had been replaced by a [[factory system]].<ref name="pabacker"/> <!-- Dubious POV --> <!--In the medieval period, weaving was considered part of the set of ''[[mechanic arts|seven mechanical arts]]''.{{Citation needed|date=October 2011}}--> The migration of the [[Huguenot Weavers]], [[Calvinist]]s fleeing from religious persecution in mainland Europe, to Britain around the time of [[Revocation of the Edict of Nantes|1685]] challenged the English weavers of cotton, woollen and worsted cloth, who subsequently learned the Huguenots' superior techniques.<ref name=Hug>{{cite web |url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=22161 |title=Industries: Silk-weaving |editor-first=William |editor-last=Page |publisher=Institute of Historical Research |year=1911 |work=A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 2: General; Ashford, East Bedfont with Hatton, Feltham, Hampton with Hampton Wick, Hanworth, Laleham, Littleton |access-date=18 November 2011 }}</ref>
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