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==== Asia and Europe ==== A common casual shoe in the [[Pyrenees]] during the Middle Ages was the [[espadrille]]. This is a sandal with braided jute soles and a fabric upper portion, and often includes fabric laces that tie around the ankle. The term is [[French language|French]] and comes from the [[esparto]] grass. The shoe originated in the [[Catalonia]]n region of [[Spain]] as early as the 13th century, and was commonly worn by [[peasant]]s in the farming communities in the area.<ref name="DeMello_Margo" /> New styles began to develop during the Song dynasty in China, some of them resulting from the binding of women's feet, first used by the noble Han classes, but soon spreading throughout Chinese society. The practice allegedly started during the Shang dynasty, but it grew popular by {{Circa|AD 960}}.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=The History of Foot Binding in China |url=https://www.thoughtco.com/the-history-of-foot-binding-in-china-195228 |access-date=2022-05-17 |website=ThoughtCo |language=en}}</ref> When the [[Mongols]] conquered China, they dissolved the practice in 1279, and the Manchus banned foot binding in 1644. The Han people, however, continued the practice without much government intervention.<ref name=":1" /> [[File:Walraversijde49.jpg|thumb|Dutch pattens, {{c.|1465}}. Excavated from the archeological site of [[Walraversijde]], near [[Ostend]], [[Belgium]]]] In medieval times shoes could be up to two feet long, with their toes sometimes filled with hair, wool, moss, or grass.<ref>{{cite web |title=Getting To The Point Of Medieval Shoes |author=Ruth Hibbard |date=9 Jul 2015 |accessdate=4 Oct 2021 |website=Victoria & Albert Museum |url=https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/getting-to-the-point-of-medieval-shoes}}</ref> Many medieval shoes were made using the [[turnshoe]] method of construction, in which the upper was turned flesh side out, and was lasted onto the sole and joined to the edge by a seam.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Making Basic Viking-Age Men's Clothing|url=https://www.vikingsof.me/downloads/clothing-guide/male.html#shoes|access-date=2020-11-07|website=www.vikingsof.me}}</ref> The shoe was then turned inside-out so that the grain was outside. Some shoes were developed with toggled flaps or [[drawstring]]s to tighten the leather around the foot for a better fit. Surviving medieval turnshoes often fit the foot closely, with the right and left shoe being mirror images.<ref>'Shoes and Pattens: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London' (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by Francis Grew & Margrethe de Neergaard</ref> Around 1500, the turnshoe method was largely replaced by the welted rand method (where the uppers are sewn to a much stiffer sole and the shoe cannot be turned inside-out).<ref name="Blair_John">{{cite book|last=Blair|first=John|title=English Medieval Industries: Craftsmen, Techniques, Products|year=1991|publisher=Continuum International Publishing Group|location=[[London]]|isbn=978-0-907628-87-3|pages=309|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PDLPX7J8kW8C&q=turnshoe&pg=PA309|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160425002817/https://books.google.com/books?id=PDLPX7J8kW8C&pg=PA309&lpg=PA309&dq=turnshoe&source=bl&ots=VeX_KjBRBf&sig=qi6DCjKWfNRsg5Sg1R_uO5vqyXE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=VsoOUPTeI-rq0gGj_4CwBA&ved=0CEYQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=turnshoe&f=false|archive-date=2016-04-25}}</ref> The turn shoe method is still used for some [[dance shoe|dance]] and specialty shoes. By the 15th century, [[Patten (shoe)|pattens]] became popular by both men and women in [[Europe]]. These are commonly seen as the predecessor of the modern [[high-heeled footwear|high-heeled shoe]],<ref name="high_heels">{{cite web|title=Dangerous Elegance: A History of High-Heeled Shoes|url=http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/036heels.html|publisher=Random History|access-date=July 1, 2010|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100728002338/http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/036heels.html|archive-date=July 28, 2010}}</ref> while the poor and lower classes in Europe, as well as slaves in the New World, were barefoot.<ref name="Frazine_Richard" /> In the 15th century, the [[Crakow (shoe)|Crakow]] was [[1400β1500 in fashion|fashionable]] in [[Europe]]. This style of shoe is named because it is thought to have originated in [[KrakΓ³w]], the capital of [[Poland]]. The style is characterized by the point of the shoe, known as the "polaine", which often was supported by a [[Baleen|whalebone]] tied to the knee to prevent the point getting in the way while walking.<ref name="polaine">{{cite book|title=The Encyclopaedia of the Renaissance|year=1988|publisher=Market House Books|isbn=978-0-7134-5967-8}}</ref> Also during the 15th century, [[chopine]]s were created in [[Spain]], and were usually {{cvt|7β8|in}} high.<ref>{{cite book | url=https://archive.org/details/hispaniccostume10000ande/page/229/mode/1up?view=theater | isbn=978-0-87535-126-1 | title=Hispanic costume, 1480-1530 | date=1979 | last1=Anderson | first1=Ruth Matilda | publisher=Hispanic Society of America }}</ref> These shoes became popular in [[Venice]] and throughout Europe, as a [[status symbol]] revealing wealth and social standing. During the 16th century, royalty, such as [[Catherine de Medici]] or [[Mary I of England]], started wearing high-heeled shoes to make them look taller or larger than life. By 1580, even men wore them, and a person with authority or wealth was often referred to as, "well-heeled".<ref name="high_heels" /> In 17th century France, heels were exclusively worn by aristocrats. [[Louis XIV of France]] outlawed anybody from wearing red high heels except for himself and his royal court.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Riello |first1=Giorgio |last2=McNeil |first2=Peter |title=Footprints from History |journal=History Today |date=March 2007 |volume=57 |issue=3 |url=https://www.historytoday.com/archive/footprints-history}}</ref> Eventually the modern shoe, with a sewn-on sole, was devised. Since the 17th century, most leather shoes have used a sewn-on sole. This remains the standard for finer-quality dress shoes today. Until around 1800, welted rand shoes were commonly made without differentiation for the left or right foot. Such shoes are now referred to as "straights".<ref name="Yue_Charlotte">{{cite book |last=Yue |first=Charlotte|title=Shoes: Their History in Words and Pictures|year=1997|publisher=Houghton Mifflin Company|location=New York City |isbn=978-0-395-72667-9 |pages=[https://archive.org/details/shoestheirhistor00yuec/page/46 46] |url=https://archive.org/details/shoestheirhistor00yuec |url-access=registration |quote=straights+shoes.}}</ref> Only gradually did the modern foot-specific shoe become standard.
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