Editing Linen (section)

==Flax fiber==
{{Main|Flax}}

===Description===
[[File:Labeledstemforposter copy new.jpg|thumb|[[Flax]] stem cross-section, showing locations of underlying tissues. Ep = [[Epidermis (botany)|epidermis]]; C = [[Cortex (botany)|cortex]]; BF = bast fibres; P = [[phloem]]; X = [[xylem]]; Pi = [[pith]]]]

Linen is a [[bast fibre|bast fiber]]. Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150&nbsp;mm (1 to 6 [[inch|in]]) and average 12–16 [[micrometre|micrometers]] in diameter. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their "nodes" which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric.

The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular [[polygon]]al shapes which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric.<ref name="classifications">Classifications & Analysis of Textiles: A Handbook by Karen L. LaBat, Ph.D. and Carol J. Salusso, Ph.A. University of Minnesota, 2003</ref>

===Properties===
Linen fabric feels cool to touch, a phenomenon which indicates its higher conductivity (the same principle that makes metals feel "cold"). It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint-free, and gets softer the more it is washed. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during laundering. Linen's poor elasticity means that it easily wrinkles.

Mildew, perspiration, and bleach can damage the fabric, but because it is not made from animal fibers ([[keratin]]) it is impervious to [[clothes moth]]s and [[Varied carpet beetle|carpet beetles]]. Linen is relatively easy to take care of, since it resists dirt and stains, has no lint or [[Pill (textile)|pilling]] tendency, and can be dry-cleaned, machine-washed, or steamed. It can withstand high temperatures, and has only moderate initial [[Shrinkage (fabric)|shrinkage]].<ref name="classifications" />

Linen should not be dried too much by tumble drying, and it is much easier to iron when damp. Linen wrinkles very easily, and thus some more formal garments require ironing often, in order to maintain perfect smoothness. Nevertheless, the tendency to wrinkle is often considered part of linen's particular "charm", and many modern linen garments are designed to be air-dried on a good clothes hanger and worn without the necessity of ironing.

A characteristic often associated with linen yarn is the presence of ''[[slub (textiles)|slubs]]'', or small, soft, irregular lumps, which occur randomly along its length. In the past, slubs were traditionally considered to be defects, and were associated with low-quality linen. However, in the case of many present-day linen fabrics, particularly in the decorative furnishing industry, slubs are considered as part of the aesthetic appeal of an expensive natural product. In addition, slubs do not compromise the integrity of the fabric, and therefore they are not viewed as a defect. However, the very finest linen has very consistent diameter threads, with no slubs at all.

Linen can [[Biodegradation|degrade]] in a few weeks when buried in soil. Linen is more biodegradable than cotton, making it an eco friendly fiber.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Arnett |first1=George |title=How quickly do fashion materials biodegrade? |url=https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/fashion-biodegradable-material-circularity-cotton |website=Vogue Business |date=29 November 2019 |publisher=Conde Nast |access-date=27 May 2020 }}</ref>

===Measure===
The standard measure of bulk linen yarn is the "lea", which is the number of yards in a pound of linen divided by 300. For example, a yarn having a size of 1&nbsp;lea will give 300&nbsp;yards per pound. The fine yarns used in handkerchiefs, etc. might be 40&nbsp;lea, and give 40x300 = 12,000&nbsp;yards per pound. This is a specific length therefore an indirect measurement of the fineness of the linen (i.e. the number of length units per unit mass). The symbol is NeL. The metric unit, Nm, is more commonly used in continental Europe. This is the number of 1,000&nbsp;m lengths per kilogram. In China, the English Cotton system unit, NeC, is common. This is the number of 840&nbsp;yard lengths in a pound.

=== Production method ===
{{Main|Flax#Preparation for spinning}}
{{Further|Textile manufacturing#Flax}}

Linen is laborious to manufacture.<ref>{{cite web |last=Hakoo |first=Ashok |title=Linen Fiber and Linen Fabrics from the Flax Plants |url=https://www.textileschool.com/2632/linen-fiber-from-flax-plants-and-the-linen-fabrics/ |website=TextileSchool |date=28 March 2018 |access-date=15 May 2020 }}</ref>

[[File:Linum usitatissimum - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-088.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Details of the flax plant, from which linen fibers are derived]]
[[File:LinenMechanicalHarvesting-Summer2009-Belgium.JPG|thumb|upright|Mechanical [[Baler|baling]] of flax in [[Belgium]]. On the left side, cut flax is waiting to be baled.]]

The quality of the finished linen product is often dependent upon growing conditions and [[harvesting]] techniques. To generate the longest possible fibers, flax is either hand-harvested by pulling up the entire plant or stalks are cut very close to the root. After harvesting, the plants are dried, and then the seeds are removed through a mechanized process called "rippling" ([[threshing]]) and [[winnowing]].

[[File:Rhof-flachsbearbeitung.ogv|thumb|Retting, scutching, and heckling (narration in German)]]
[[File:Bäuerliche Leinenweberei - 4. Die Herstellung von Leinwand.webm|thumb|Handweaving of linen (narration in German)]]

The fibers must then be loosened from the stalk. This is achieved through [[retting]], a process which uses bacteria to decompose the pectin that binds the fibers together. Natural retting methods take place in tanks and pools, or directly in the fields. There are also chemical retting methods; these are faster, but are typically more harmful to the environment and to the fibers themselves.

After retting, the stalks are ready for [[scutching]], which takes place between August and December. Scutching removes the woody portion of the stalks by crushing them between two metal rollers, so that the parts of the stalk can be separated. The fibers are removed and the other parts such as [[Linseed#Flax seeds|linseed]], [[shives]], and [[Tow (fibre)|tow]] are set aside for other uses. Next the fibers are [[Heckling (flax)|heckled]]: the short fibers are separated with [[heckling comb]]s by 'combing' them away, to leave behind only the long, soft flax fibers.

After the fibers have been separated and processed, they are typically spun into yarns and woven or knit into linen textiles. These textiles can then be bleached, dyed, printed on, or finished with a number of treatments or coatings.<ref name="classifications" />

An alternate production method is known as "cottonizing" which is quicker and requires less equipment. The flax stalks are processed using traditional cotton machinery; however, the finished fibers often lose the characteristic linen look.

=== Producers ===
In 2018, according to the [[United Nations]]' repository of official international trade statistics, China was the top exporter of woven linen fabrics by trade value, with a reported $732.3 million in exports; Italy ($173.0 million), Belgium ($68.9 million) and the United Kingdom ($51.7 million) were also major exporters.<ref>{{cite web |title=5309 - Woven fabrics of flax |url=https://comtrade.un.org/data/ |publisher=UN Comtrade Database |access-date=13 May 2020 }}</ref>