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=== Expansion in popularity === [[File:Agnes B Marshall.jpg|thumb|[[Agnes Marshall]], "queen of ices", instrumental in making ice-cream fashionable]] [[File:Children in the Ghetto and the Ice-Cream Man. Chicago Ill. (FRONT).jpeg|thumb|Children in [[Maxwell Street|Chicago]] surround an ice cream vendor in 1909.]] [[File:Sydney markets, by Rex Hazlewood, c. 1911-1916 (9909471825) (2).jpg|thumb|J Podesta, Ice Cream maker's stall, Sydney Markets, c. 1910]] In the Mediterranean, ice cream appears to have been accessible to ordinary people by the mid-18th century.<ref>{{cite journal | doi = 10.1093/pastj/gtt018 | issn = 0031-2746 | issue = 220 | pages = 35–78 | last = Calaresu | first = Melissa | title = Making and Eating Ice Cream in Naples: Rethinking Consumption and Sociability in the Eighteenth Century | journal = Past & Present | date = August 2013 }}</ref> Ice cream became popular and inexpensive in England in the mid-19th century, when Swiss émigré [[Carlo Gatti]] set up the first stand outside [[Charing Cross]] station in 1851. He sold scoops in shells for one penny. Prior to this, ice cream was an expensive treat confined to those with access to an ice house.<ref>{{cite news |first=Nick |last=Stephens |url=http://bordeaux-undiscovered.blogspot.com/2007/03/wine-flavoured-ice-cream.html |title=Wine Flavoured Ice Cream |publisher=Bordeaux-Undiscovered |date=28 March 2007 |access-date=4 January 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110727132607/http://bordeaux-undiscovered.blogspot.com/2007/03/wine-flavoured-ice-cream.html |archive-date=27 July 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Gatti built an 'ice well' to store ice that he cut from [[Regent's Canal]] under a contract with the [[Regent's Canal Company]]. By 1860, he expanded the business and began importing ice on a large scale from Norway. In New Zealand, a newspaper advertisement for ice cream appeared in 1866, claiming to be the first time ice cream was available in [[Wellington]].<ref>{{Cite news|date=27 January 1866|title=Advertisements|volume=XXI|page=5|work=Wellington Independent|issue=2315|url=https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WI18660127.2.15.1|access-date=10 April 2021|archive-date=10 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410052002/https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WI18660127.2.15.1|url-status=live}}</ref> Commercial manufacturing was underway in 1875.<ref>{{Cite news|date=17 November 1875|title=Advertisements|volume=XII|page=3|work=Evening Post|issue=119|url=https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP18751117.2.17.5|access-date=10 April 2021|archive-date=10 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410051934/https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP18751117.2.17.5|url-status=live}}</ref> Ice cream rapidly gained in popularity in New Zealand throughout the 20th century.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Newey|first=Chris|title=The history of ice cream in New Zealand|url=http://www.nzicecream.org.nz/history-nz-1930.htm|access-date=10 April 2021|website=New Zealand Ice Cream Manufacturers Association|archive-date=12 February 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210212043119/http://www.nzicecream.org.nz/history-nz-1930.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> By 2018, exported ice cream products included new flavours such as [[matcha]] to cater to Asian markets.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Situation and Outlook for Primary Industries|url=https://www.mpi.govt.nz/dmsdocument/38930/direct|access-date=10 April 2021|pages=16–17|archive-date=10 April 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410051934/https://www.mpi.govt.nz/dmsdocument/38930/direct|url-status=live}}</ref> Agnes Marshall, regarded as the "queen of ices" in England, did much to popularize ice cream recipes and make its consumption into a fashionable middle-class pursuit. She wrote four books: ''The Book of Ices'' (1885), ''Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Book of Cookery'' (1888), ''Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Larger Cookery Book of Extra Recipes'' (1891) and ''Fancy Ices'' (1894) and gave public lectures on cooking. She even suggested using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. [[Ice cream soda]] was invented in the 1870s, adding to ice cream's popularity. The invention of this cold treat is attributed to American Robert Green in 1874, although there is no conclusive evidence to prove his claim. The [[sundae|ice cream sundae]] originated in the late 19th century. Some sources say that the sundae was invented to circumvent [[blue law]]s, which forbade serving sodas on Sunday. Towns claiming to be the birthplace of the sundae include [[Buffalo, New York|Buffalo]], [[Two Rivers, Wisconsin|Two Rivers]], [[Ithaca, New York|Ithaca]], and [[Evanston, Illinois|Evanston]]. Both the [[ice cream cone]] and [[banana split]] became popular in the early 20th century.{{cn|date=December 2024}} The first mention of the cone being used as an edible receptacle for the ice cream is in ''Mrs. A.B. Marshall's Book of Cookery'' of 1888. Her recipe for "Cornet with Cream" said that "the cornets were made with almonds and baked in the oven, not pressed between irons".<ref name="whatscookingamerica.net">{{cite web|url=http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/IceCream/IceCreamCone.htm|title=History of Ice Cream Cone|last=Stradley|first=Linda|publisher=What's Cooking America|access-date=13 May 2008|archive-date=9 May 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080509190148/http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/IceCream/IceCreamCone.htm|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="historicfood.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.historicfood.com/Ice%20Cream%20Cone.htm|title=An 1807 Ice Cream Cone: Discovery and Evidence|last=Weir|first=Robert|publisher=Historic Food|access-date=13 May 2008|archive-date=17 May 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080517100822/http://www.historicfood.com/Ice%20Cream%20Cone.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> The ice cream cone was popularized in the US at the [[Louisiana Purchase Exposition|1904 World's Fair]] in [[St. Louis Missouri|St. Louis, Missouri]].<ref name="whatscookingamerica.net"/> The history of ice cream in the 20th century is one of great change and increases in availability and popularity. In the United States in the early 20th century, the ice cream soda was a popular treat at the [[soda shop]], the [[soda fountain]], and the [[ice cream parlour]]. During the [[Prohibition in the United States|American Prohibition]], the soda fountain to some extent replaced the outlawed alcohol establishments such as [[Bar (establishment)|bar]]s and saloons. Ice cream became popular throughout the world in the second half of the 20th century after cheap refrigeration became common. There was an explosion of ice cream stores and of flavours and types. Vendors often competed on the basis of variety: [[Howard Johnson's]] restaurants advertised "a world of 28 flavors", and [[Baskin-Robbins]] made its 31 flavours ("one for every day of the month") the cornerstone of its marketing strategy (the company now boasts that it has developed over 1,000 varieties). One important development in the 20th century was the introduction of soft ice cream, which has more air mixed in, thereby reducing costs. The soft ice cream machine fills a cone or dish from a [[Tap (valve)|spigot]]. In the United States, chains such as [[Dairy Queen]], [[Carvel (franchise)|Carvel]], and [[Tastee-Freez]] helped popularize soft-serve ice cream. Baskin-Robbins later incorporated it into their menu. Technological innovations such as these have introduced various food additives into ice cream, most notably the [[Stabilizer (chemistry)|stabilizing agent]] [[gluten]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columnnn/nn030331.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20030422233719/http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columnnn/nn030331.html |archive-date=22 April 2003 |title=Gluten sensitivity more widespread than previously thought |website=Colorado State University Extension |author=Pat Kendall |date=31 March 2003}}</ref> to which some people have an [[gluten-related disorders|intolerance]]. Recent awareness of this issue has prompted a number of manufacturers to start producing gluten-free ice cream.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nestle.ca/haagen_dazs/en/Company/FAQ/index#Q13 |title=Haagen-Dazs: FAQ – Is Haagen Dazs Gluten Free? |publisher=[[Nestlé]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080202224331/http://www.nestle.ca/haagen_dazs/en/Company/FAQ/index#Q13 |archive-date=2 February 2008 }}</ref> The 1980s saw thicker ice creams being sold as "premium" and "super-premium" varieties under brands such as [[Ben & Jerry's]], [[Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream Company]] and [[Häagen-Dazs]].
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