Editing Kangchenjunga (section)

===First ascent===
{{main|1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition}}
[[File:Kangchenjunga Sign Board.jpg|thumb|A sign board on the last traversable road to Kangchenjunga]]
[[File:1990 reunion of the Kangchenjunga climbers.jpg|thumb|First ascent reunion of 1990– front (left to right): Neil Mather, John Angelo Jackson, Charles Evans and Joe Brown, and rear (left to right): Tony Streather, Norman Hardie, George Band and Professor John Clegg]]
In 1955, [[Joe Brown (climber)|Joe Brown]] and [[George Band (climber)|George Band]] made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by [[Norman Hardie]] and [[Tony Streather]] on 26 May.<ref name=Kapadia2001>{{cite book |last=Kapadia, H. |year=2001 |title=Across Peaks and Passes in Darjeeling and Sikkim |publisher=Indus Publishing Company |location=New Delhi |isbn=978-8173871269}}</ref> The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), [[Charles Evans (mountaineer)|Charles Evans]] (team leader), [[John Angelo Jackson]], Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon.<ref name=Band1955/>
The team first made an attempt on the line which John Kempe's party had reconnoitered the previous year. Because of the difficulties on that line they turned to the Yalung Face, which had first been explored by Aleister Crowley's party in 1905. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is {{cvt|3000|m|-3}} high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large sloping plateau at around {{cvt|7500|m|-2}}, covered by a hanging glacier. The route is almost entirely on snow, [[glacier]] and one [[icefall]]; the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May.<ref name=Evans1956>{{cite journal |author1=Evans, C. |author2=Band, G. |title=Kangchenjunga Climbed |journal=The Geographical Journal |year=1956 |volume=122 |issue=1 |pages=1–12 |doi=10.2307/1791469 |jstor=1791469 |bibcode=1956GeogJ.122....1E}}</ref> Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon.<ref>{{cite news |author=Perrin, J. |year=2005 |title=Obituary: John Jackson. Key climber and trainer of British mountaineers |newspaper=The Guardian |access-date=31 October 2013 |url=https://www.theguardian.com/news/2005/aug/01/guardianobituaries.sport}}</ref>