Editing Black tie (section)

=== Jacket ===
[[File:Dinner Jacket cuff button detail.jpg|thumb|Covered cuff buttons on a dinner jacket]]
[[File:Dinner Jacket Lapel Boutonnière.jpg|alt=Dinner jacket peak lapel|left|thumb|upright=1.15|The [[peak lapel]] of a dinner jacket featuring a working [[Boutonnière|buttonhole]] and [[Grosgrain|silk grosgrain]] facings]]
The original and most formal model of dinner jacket is the [[single-breasted]] model. The typical black tie jacket is single-breasted with one button only, with [[wikt:besom pocket|jetted, or besom, pockets]] and is of black or midnight blue; usually of wool or a wool-[[mohair]], or wool-[[polyester]] blend, although other materials, especially silk, are seen. Although other materials are used, the most appropriate and traditional for the dinner jacket are wool [[barathea]] or superfine [[Herringbone (cloth)|herringbone]].<ref name="DebrettWeb" /> Double-breasted models have become less common, but are generally considered equally appropriate for most black tie occasions. Dinner jackets were commonly [[Vent (tailoring)|ventless]] before World War I, but in the 21st century come ventless, with [[Vent (tailoring)|side vents]], or, less commonly, with [[Vent (tailoring)|centre vents]]. The ventless style is considered more formal, whilst the [[Vent (tailoring)|centre vent]] is the least formal. The lapels, traditionally pointed and shawl, are usually faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave, but can also be silk [[barathea]]. A notched lapel is usually considered more appropriate for a business suit than a dinner jacket but is commonly seen on inexpensive [[off the rack]] dinner jackets.<ref>{{Cite web | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=P5cnAQAAIAAJ | title=Esquire: The Magazine for Men| year=1996}}</ref> According to the Black Tie Guide, the peaked lapel and shawl collar are equally authentic and correct, with the latter being slightly less formal.<ref name="BTG_tuxedo" /> The [[Button (clothing)|button]]s are covered in similarly coloured material to the main part of the jacket, which would typically be either self-faced or covered with the same material as the lapels. Some higher-end single-breasted jackets, both new and vintage, tend to be fastened with a link front closure which is visually similar to a cufflink; this traditional method of closure is common in the United Kingdom.

The [[Pocket|double-besomed jetted]] or slit hip pocket is the only style understated enough to complement the dinner jacket.{{citation needed|date=September 2021}} [[Pocket|Flap pockets]] are not considered appropriate for formal attire's refined minimalism due to their busier and bulkier design, and some believe that they are simply an attempt by dinner jacket manufacturers to save money by using standard suit patterns, although sometimes they will trim the edges of a flap pocket so that the flap can be tucked in or removed if desired.{{according to whom|date=February 2019}} [[Pocket#Types|Besom welts]] can be of self fabric or trimmed with the lapel's silk facing, though classic menswear scholar Nicholas Antongiavanni suggests that for the English this latter touch "is a sure sign of hired clothes".<ref>{{Cite book|title=The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style|last=Antongiavanni|first=Nicholas|publisher=Harper Collins|year=2006|isbn=9780060891862|location=New York}}</ref> The dinner jacket also has a welt breast pocket to hold a [[Handkerchief|pocket handkerchief]], which is generally self-faced rather than covered with silk.

[[File:Dinner Jacket Link Front Closure.jpg|alt=Dinner jacket link front|thumb|upright=0.7|An example of a link front style closure of a dinner jacket, featuring silk grosgrain]]
[[Emily Post]], a resident of Tuxedo Park, New York, stated in 1909 that "[Tuxedos] can have lapels or be shawl-shaped, in either case they are to have facings of [[silk]], satin or grosgrain". She later republished this statement in her 1922 book ''Etiquette'', adding that only single-breasted jackets are appropriately called ''tuxedos''.<ref name=":5">{{cite web|url=http://emilypost.com/advice/attire-guide-dress-codes-from-casual-to-white-tie/ |title=Attire Guide: Dress Codes from Casual to White Tie |publisher=The Emily Post Institute |access-date=12 May 2011}}</ref> There is a fashion movement suggesting that a man's appearance when wearing the wider and higher peak lapel is superior to the narrower notch lapel.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://law.indiana.edu/students/activities/barrister/doc/black_tie_101_20110120.pdf |title=Black Tie 101 |publisher=Indiana University Bloomington |access-date=12 May 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110310070809/https://www.law.indiana.edu/students/activities/barrister/doc/black_tie_101_20110120.pdf |archive-date=10 March 2011|url-status=dead}}</ref>

[[File:Ken White dinner jacket.jpg|thumb|right|A white dinner jacket]]
White dinner jackets are often worn in warm climates. They are [[Ivory (color)|ivory]] in colour rather than pure white, and have self-faced lapels, i.e., made of the same fabric as the jacket, rather than silk-faced lapels. They are generally worn with the same types of shirts and accessories as black dinner jackets, though the turndown collar and cummerbund are preferred to the wing collar or waistcoat. Similarly, the shawl lapel is more common in white dinner jackets. In the United Kingdom, the 20th-century etiquette was that white dinner jackets were never worn, even on the hottest day of summer, but were reserved for wear abroad.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Warm_Weather.htm |title=Classic Black Tie: Warm-Weather Black Tie |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> In the 21st century, white dinner jackets are frequently seen at [[wedding]]s, formal beach events, and high-school [[prom]]s, in the United States and at some concerts, famously for instance the [[Last Night of the Proms]], in the United Kingdom. In tropical climates, such as in Imperial Burma, the desert fawn was historically used as the less formal colour. At one time, the civilian [[Mess jacket (civil)|mess jacket]] was also an option in warmer climates.

It is generally considered inappropriate for a man to remove his jacket during a formal social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the [[Social rank|ranking]] man of the [[royal family]] or the guest of honour may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather, [[Red Sea rig]] is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain [[expatriate]] communities.