Editing Wales (section)

==Geography and natural history== <!-- [[Welsh mountains]] redirects here -->
{{Main|Geography of Wales}}
{{See also|List of settlements in Wales by population|List of towns in Wales|List of cities in Wales}}
{{See also|Natural resources of Wales}}
[[File:Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) from Crib Goch, Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri National Park, Cymru (Wales) 09.jpg|thumb|292x292px|[[Snowdon]] ({{langx|cy|Yr Wyddfa}}) [[Gwynedd]], the highest mountain in Wales]]
Wales is a generally mountainous country on the western side of central southern Great Britain.<ref name="ONS Cymru">{{Cite book |url=http://www.ons.gov.uk/ons/rel/social-trends-rd/the-official-yearbook-of-the-united-kingdom/2005-edition/the-official-yearbook-of-the-united-kingdom---2005-edition.pdf |publisher=[[Office for National Statistics]] |year=2004 |title=UK 2005 – The Official Yearbook of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland |pages=2 & 30|access-date=10 February 2012 |isbn=978-0-11-621738-7}}</ref> It is about {{convert|170|mi}} north to south.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.visitwales.co.uk/about-wales-guide-to-wales-culture-people-and-language/welsh-geography/ |title=Geography: About Wales |publisher=[[Welsh Government]]|year=2010|access-date=3 October 2010|website=[[Visit Wales]] website|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101028210819/http://www.visitwales.co.uk/about-wales-guide-to-wales-culture-people-and-language/welsh-geography/|archive-date=28 October 2010|url-status=dead}}</ref> The oft-quoted "[[The size of Wales|size of Wales]]" is about {{convert|20779|km2|sqmi|abbr=on}}.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://eulis.eu/service/countries-profile/england-and-wales/ |publisher=[[EULIS|European Land Information Service]] |title=England and Wales |access-date=2 October 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110720161018/http://eulis.eu/service/countries-profile/england-and-wales/ |archive-date=20 July 2011 }}</ref> Wales is bordered by England to the east and by sea in all other directions: the [[Irish Sea]] to the north and west, [[St George's Channel]] and the [[Celtic Sea]] to the southwest and the [[Bristol Channel]] to the south.<ref>{{cite hansard |url=https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/written-answers/1974/dec/16/celtic-sea#S5CV0883P0-06989|title=Celtic Sea |house=House of Commons |date=16 December 1974 |volume=883 |column=317W}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://iho.int/uploads/user/pubs/standards/s-23/S-23_Ed3_1953_EN.pdf |title=Limits of Oceans and Seas, 3rd edition + corrections |year=1971|publisher=[[International Hydrographic Organization]] |access-date=28 December 2020|page=42 [corrections to page 13]|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111008191433/http://www.iho-ohi.net/iho_pubs/standard/S-23/S23_1953.pdf|archive-date=8 October 2011}}</ref> Wales has about {{convert|1680|mi}} of coastline (along the mean high water mark), including the mainland, [[Isle of Anglesey|Anglesey]] and [[Holy Island, Anglesey|Holyhead]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cartography.org.uk/default.asp?contentID=749 |title=How long is the UK coastline? |first=Giles |last=Darkes |date=January 2008 |access-date=6 October 2015 |publisher=The [[British Cartographic Society]] |archive-date=22 May 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120522042745/http://www.cartography.org.uk/default.asp?contentID=749 |url-status=dead }}</ref> [[List of islands of Wales|Over 50 islands]] lie off the Welsh mainland, the largest being Anglesey, in the north-west.<ref>{{cite web|title=Discover Welsh islands with unique scenery, wildlife and heritage |url=https://www.visitwales.com/inspire-me/holidays/escape-welsh-islands |publisher=VisitWales |access-date=15 May 2020}}</ref>

Much of Wales's diverse landscape is mountainous, particularly in the north and central regions. The mountains were shaped during the last ice age, the [[Devensian glaciation]]. The highest mountains in Wales are in [[Snowdonia]] ({{lang|cy|Eryri}}), of which five are over {{convert|1000|m|ft|abbr=on}}. The highest of these is [[Snowdon]] ({{lang|cy|Yr Wyddfa}}), at {{convert|1085|m|ft|abbr=on}}.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2009/aug/02/mount-snowdon-cafe|work=[[The Guardian]] |date=2 August 2009|title=High tea: Mount Snowdon's magical mountaintop cafe |access-date=28 September 2010 |location=London |first=Jonathan |last=Glancey}}</ref><ref name="WalesOnline mynyddoedd">{{cite web |url =http://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/2010/09/22/mountain-upgraded-to-super-status-91466-27315826/ |title = Mountain upgraded to 'super' status |access-date = 30 September 2010 |date = 22 September 2010 |publisher = [[Media Wales|Media Wales Ltd]] |website=[[WalesOnline]] website}}</ref> The 14 Welsh mountains, or 15 if including [[Carnedd Gwenllian]]{{spaced ndash}}often discounted because of its low [[topographic prominence]]{{spaced ndash}}over {{convert|3000|ft|m|abbr=off}} high are known collectively as the [[Welsh 3000s]] and are located in a small area in the north-west.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.welsh3000s.co.uk/|publisher=welsh3000s.co.uk |title=The Welsh 3000s Challenge |access-date=28 September 2010}}</ref> The highest outside the 3000s is [[Aran Fawddwy]], at {{convert|905|m|ft|abbr=off}}, in the south of Snowdonia.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.snowdoniaguide.com/aran_fawddwy.html|publisher=snowdoniaguide.com |title=Aran Fawddwy |access-date=2 October 2010}}</ref> The [[Brecon Beacons]] ({{lang|cy|Bannau Brycheiniog}}) are in the south (highest point [[Pen y Fan]], at {{convert|886|m|ft|abbr=off}}),<ref>Nuttall, John & Anne (1999). The Mountains of England & Wales – Volume 1: Wales (2nd edition ed.). Milnthorpe, Cumbria: Cicerone. {{ISBN|978-1-85284-304-5}}.</ref> and are joined by the [[Cambrian Mountains]] in [[Mid Wales]] (highest point [[Pumlumon]], at {{convert|752|m|ft|abbr=off}}).<ref>{{cite web|title=Ordnance Survey|url=https://www.bing.com/maps/?mkt=en-gb&v=2&cp=52.4675~-3.7828&lvl=12&sp=Point.52.4675_-3.7828_Plynlimon&sty=s|access-date=6 June 2020}}</ref>

[[File:Map of Wales.svg|thumb|Relief map of Wales:<br />{{legend|#e9c6af|Topography above {{convert|600|ft|m}}}}{{legend|#228b22|[[National parks of Wales|National Parks]]}}]]
Wales has [[National parks of Wales|three national parks]]: Snowdonia, Brecon Beacons, and [[Pembrokeshire Coast]] ({{lang|cy|Arfordir Penfro}}). It has [[Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Wales|five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty]]: Anglesey, the [[Clwydian Range and Dee Valley]], the [[Gower Peninsula]], the [[Llŷn Peninsula]], and the [[Wye Valley]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://wales.gov.uk/topics/environmentcountryside/consmanagement/aonb/?lang=en |publisher=[[Welsh Government]] |website=[[Welsh Government]] website |title=Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty |access-date=6 October 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120625232127/http://wales.gov.uk/topics/environmentcountryside/consmanagement/aonb/?lang=en |archive-date=25 June 2012 }}</ref> The Gower Peninsula was the first area in the United Kingdom to be designated as an [[Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty]], in 1956. As of 2019, the [[coastline of Wales]] had 40 [[Blue Flag beach]]es, three Blue Flag marinas and one Blue Flag boat operator.<ref>{{cite web|title=All of Wales' Blue Flag beaches in 2019|url=https://www.walesonline.co.uk/whats-on/travel/wales-blue-flag-beaches-2019-16271891|last=Knapman|first=Joshua|date=14 May 2019|website=walesonline|access-date=15 May 2020}}</ref> The south and west coasts of Wales, along with the Irish and Cornish coasts, are frequently blasted by Atlantic [[westerlies]]/south-westerlies that, over the years, have sunk and wrecked many vessels. In 1859 over 110 ships were destroyed off the coast of Wales in a hurricane that saw more than 800 lives lost across Britain.<ref>Davies (2008) p.778</ref> The greatest single loss occurred with the sinking of the ''[[Royal Charter (ship)|Royal Charter]]'' off Anglesey in which 459 people died.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/history/pages/tomparryllandudnopier.shtml |publisher=BBC |date=28 April 2006 |title=Stormy Weather |access-date=26 September 2010 |website=[[BBC]] North West Wales website |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110126035354/http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/history/pages/tomparryllandudnopier.shtml |archive-date=26 January 2011 }}</ref> The 19th century saw over 100 vessels lost with an average loss of 78 sailors per year.<ref name="Davies 814">Davies (2008) p.814</ref> Wartime action caused losses near Holyhead, [[Milford Haven]] and Swansea.<ref name="Davies 814"/> Because of offshore rocks and unlit islands, Anglesey and Pembrokeshire are still notorious for shipwrecks, most notably the [[Sea Empress oil spill|''Sea Empress'' oil spill]] in 1996.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/06/uk_the_sea_empress_disaster/html/1.stm |publisher=BBC |year= 2000|title=In detail: The Sea Empress disaster|access-date=26 September 2010 |work=[[BBC News]] website}}</ref>

The first border between Wales and England was zonal, apart from around the River Wye, which was the first accepted boundary.<ref name="Davies75">Davies (2008) p. 75</ref> Offa's Dyke was supposed to form an early distinct line but this was thwarted by Gruffudd ap Llewellyn, who reclaimed swathes of land beyond the dyke.<ref name="Davies75"/> The [[Act of Union 1536]] formed a linear border stretching from the mouth of the Dee to the mouth of the Wye.<ref name="Davies75"/> Even after the Act of Union, many of the borders remained vague and moveable until the [[Sunday Closing (Wales) Act 1881]], which forced local businesses to decide which country they fell within to accept either the Welsh or English law.<ref name="Davies75"/>

===Geology===
{{main|Geology of Wales}}
The earliest geological period of the [[Paleozoic|Palaeozoic]] era, the [[Cambrian]], takes its name from the [[Cambrian Mountains]], where geologists first identified Cambrian remnants.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://palaeos.com/paleozoic/cambrian/cambrian.htm |publisher=[[palaeos]].com |date=11 April 2002 |title=The Cambrian Period of the Paleozoic Era: 542 to 488 Million Years Ago |access-date=2 October 2010 |archive-date=26 November 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101126092715/http://palaeos.com/Paleozoic/Cambrian/Cambrian.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name=Sedgwick1852>{{cite journal|doi=10.1144/GSL.JGS.1852.008.01-02.20|last=Sedgwick |first=A. |year=1852|title=On the classification and nomenclature of the Lower Paleozoic rocks of England and Wales|journal=Q. J. Geol. Soc. Lond. |volume=8|issue=1–2 |pages=136–138|bibcode=1852QJGS....8..136S |s2cid=130896939 |url=https://zenodo.org/record/2432137 |issn=0370-291X}}</ref> In the mid-19th century, [[Roderick Murchison]] and [[Adam Sedgwick]] used their studies of Welsh geology to establish certain principles of [[stratigraphy]] and [[palaeontology]]. The next two periods of the Palaeozoic era, the [[Ordovician]] and [[Silurian]], were named after ancient Celtic tribes from this area.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://palaeos.com/paleozoic/silurian/silurian.htm|publisher=[[palaeos]].com|date=11 April 2002|title=The Silurian: The Silurian Period of the Paleozoic Era: 444 to 416 Mya|access-date=10 February 2012|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120309135815/http://palaeos.com/paleozoic/silurian/silurian.htm|archive-date=9 March 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://palaeos.com/paleozoic/ordovician/ordovician.htm|publisher=[[palaeos]].com|date=11 April 2002|title=The Ordovician: The Ordovician Period of the Paleozoic Era: 488 to 444 million years ago|access-date=10 February 2012|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120307063915/http://palaeos.com/paleozoic/ordovician/ordovician.htm|archive-date=7 March 2012}}</ref>

===Climate===
{{main|Climate of Wales}}
{{climate chart
|Wales
|1.3|6.5|158.6
|1.1|6.6|114
|2.4|8.6|118.8
|3.4|11|85.9
|6|14.5|80.7
|8.6|16.8|86.2
|10.9|19.1|78.4
|10.7|18.8|106
|8.8|16.2|124
|6.5|12.8|153.2
|3.7|9.3|156.8
|2.2|7.4|173.3
|source=[http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/19712000/areal/wales.html Met Office]
|float=right
}}
[[File:Milvus milvus R(ThKraft).jpg|thumb|upright=0.75|A [[Red kite]], considered one of the [[national symbols of Wales]] and voted the nation's favourite bird<ref>{{cite web |date=3 July 2019 |title=National symbols of Wales |url=https://www.wales.com/about/culture/national-symbols-wales |access-date=5 September 2022 |website=Wales }}</ref>]]
Wales lies within the [[Temperateness|north temperate zone]]. It has a changeable, [[maritime climate]] and is one of the wettest countries in Europe.<ref name="Met Off 1">{{cite web|url=http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/regional-climates/wl/ |publisher=[[Met Office]] |year=2010|title=Met Office: Regional Climate: Wales|access-date=26 September 2010 |website=[[Met Office]] website}}</ref><ref name="Davies148-150">Davies (2008) pp. 148–150</ref> Welsh weather is often cloudy, wet and windy, with warm summers and mild winters.<ref name="Met Off 1"/><ref name="WalesOnline soggy">
{{cite web|url=http://icwales.icnetwork.co.uk/0100news/0200wales/tm_objectid=14140027&method=full&siteid=50082&headline=soggiest-city-in-britain-pays-high-price-for-rain-name_page.html|title=Soggiest city in Britain pays high price for rain|publisher=[[Media Wales|Media Wales Ltd]]|last=Turner |first=Robert|access-date = 26 September 2010|date = 26 July 2010}}
</ref> 
* Highest maximum temperature: {{convert|37.1|°C|0|abbr=on}} at [[Hawarden]], Flintshire on 18 July 2022.<ref>{{cite news |title=Heatwave latest: Wales sees hottest day on record, provisional figures show |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/live/uk-62184978 |access-date=18 July 2022}}</ref>
* Lowest minimum temperature: {{convert|-23.3|°C|0|abbr=on}} at [[Rhayader]], Radnorshire (now [[Powys]]) on 21 January 1940.<ref name="Met Office Temp">{{cite web |title=Wales: climate |url=http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/wl/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120113130422/http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/wl/ |archive-date=13 January 2012 |access-date=9 September 2010 |publisher=[[Met Office]]}}</ref>
* Maximum number of hours of sunshine in a month: 354.3 hours at [[Dale Fort]], Pembrokeshire in July 1955.<ref name="Met Haul 1">{{cite web|url=http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/wl/|title=Met Office:Regional Climate: Wales|year=2009|publisher=[[Met Office]]|access-date=6 October 2009|website=Met Office website|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120113130422/http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/wl/|archive-date=13 January 2012}}</ref>
* Minimum number of hours of sunshine in a month: 2.7 hours at Llwynon, [[Brecknockshire]] in January 1962.<ref name="Met Haul 1"/>
* Maximum rainfall in a day (0900 UTC – 0900 UTC): {{convert|211|mm}} at [[Rhondda]], Glamorgan, on 11 November 1929.<ref>{{Cite news|title=Digital Archive of Extreme UK Rainfall Events|url=http://www.hydro-gis.co.uk/pdf_files/digital_archive_flyer.pdf|publisher=Hydro-GIS Ltd.|access-date=2 October 2010|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120312105749/http://www.hydro-gis.co.uk/pdf_files/digital_archive_flyer.pdf|archive-date=12 March 2012}}</ref>
* Wettest spot – an average of {{convert|4473|mm|0}} rain a year at [[Crib Goch]] in Snowdonia, Gwynedd (making it also the wettest spot in the United Kingdom).<ref>
{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/3354276/The-wetter-the-better.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120128075059/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/3354276/The-wetter-the-better.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=28 January 2012|title=The wetter, the better|newspaper=[[The Independent]]|last=Clark|first=Ross|date=28 October 2006|access-date=2 September 2009|location=London}}</ref>

===Flora and fauna===
{{Main|Biodiversity of Wales}}

Wales's wildlife is typical of Britain with several distinctions. Because of its long coastline, Wales hosts a variety of seabirds. The coasts and surrounding islands are home to colonies of [[northern gannet|gannet]]s, [[Manx shearwater]], [[Atlantic puffin|puffin]]s, [[black-legged kittiwake|kittiwakes]], [[European shag|shags]] and [[razorbill]]s. In comparison, with 60 per cent of Wales above the 150m contour, the country also supports a variety of upland-habitat birds, including [[common raven|raven]] and [[ring ouzel]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ecologymatters.co.uk/pdf/Wales_Ring_Ouzel_paper.pdf |title=Wales Ring Ouzel Survey 2006 |publisher=Ecology Matters Ltd. |last=Green |first=Mick |year=2007 |access-date=6 September 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120311210912/http://www.ecologymatters.co.uk/pdf/Wales_Ring_Ouzel_paper.pdf |archive-date=11 March 2012 }}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/north_east/4644626.stm |title=Black ravens return to the roost |publisher=BBC |date=24 January 2006 |access-date=6 September 2010}}</ref> [[Birds of prey]] include the [[merlin (bird)|merlin]], [[hen harrier]] and the [[red kite]], a national symbol of Welsh wildlife.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rspb.org.uk/news/details.asp?view=print&id=tcm:9-176206 |title=Red kite voted Wales' Favourite Bird |publisher=[[Royal Society for the Protection of Birds]] |date=11 October 2007 |access-date=6 September 2010 |archive-date=23 August 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100823014457/http://www.rspb.org.uk/news/details.asp?view=print&id=tcm:9-176206 |url-status=dead }}</ref> In total, more than 200 different species of bird have been seen at the [[RSPB]] reserve at [[Conwy]], including seasonal visitors.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/c/conwy/about.aspx |title=About Conwy |publisher=RSPB.org.uk |date=16 April 2010 |access-date=6 September 2010}}</ref> Larger mammals, including brown bears, wolves and wildcats, died out during the Norman period. Today, mammals include shrews, voles, badgers, otters, stoats, weasels, hedgehogs and fifteen species of bat. Two species of small rodent, the [[yellow-necked mouse]] and the [[hazel dormouse|dormouse]], are of special Welsh note being found at the historically undisturbed border area.<ref name="Davies533">Davies (2008) p. 533</ref> The [[pine marten]], which has been sighted occasionally, has been reintroduced in parts of Wales since 2015, having previously not been officially recorded since the 1950s.<ref>{{cite news |title=Pine marten spotted on Anglesey after 30 years |work=BBC News |date=12 July 2022 |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-wales-62137570 |access-date=2 December 2022}}</ref> The [[European polecat|polecat]] was nearly driven to extinction in Britain, but hung on in Wales and is now rapidly spreading. [[Feral goat]]s can be found in Snowdonia.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2006/nov/13/conservationandendangeredspecies.uknews |title=Goats have roamed Snowdonia for 10,000 years; now they face secret cull |first=John|last=Vidal|work=guardian.co.uk |date=13 November 2006 |access-date=14 August 2011 |location=London}}</ref> In March 2021, [[Natural Resources Wales]] (NRW) granted a licence to release up to six [[beaver]]s in the [[River Dyfi|Dyfi Valley]], the first official beaver release in Wales.<ref>{{cite news|work=BBC News|date=30 March 2021|last=Grug|first=Mari|title=Licensed beavers released in Wales for the first time|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-56565050|access-date=31 March 2021}}</ref>

Believed to be home to some of Wales's rarest land invertebrates, some 2,500 disused coal tips are the subject of study by the Welsh Government; the tips are home to a wide variety of other wildlife.<ref>{{cite news|work=BBC News|title=Coal tip repairs threaten rare wildlife, ecologists warn|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-66632770|first1=Steffan |last1=Messenger |first2=Gavin |last2=Fischer|date=29 August 2023|access-date=29 August 2023}}</ref>

The waters of south-west Wales of Gower, Pembrokeshire and Cardigan Bay attract marine animals, including [[basking sharks]], Atlantic [[grey seal]]s, leatherback turtles, dolphins, [[porpoises]], jellyfish, crabs and lobsters. Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion, in particular, are recognised as an area of international importance for [[bottlenose dolphin]]s, and [[New Quay]] has the only summer residence of bottlenose dolphins in the whole of the UK. Freshwater fish of note include [[Salvelinus|char]], eel, [[salmon]], [[shad]], [[European smelt|sparling]] and [[Arctic char]], while the [[gwyniad]] is unique to Wales, found only in [[Bala Lake]]. Wales is known for its shellfish, including [[Cockle (bivalve)|cockles]], [[limpet]], [[mussel]]s and [[Common periwinkle|periwinkles]]. [[Herring]], [[mackerel]] and [[hake]] are the more common of the country's marine fish.<ref name="Hist 286-288">Davies (1994) pp. 286–288</ref> The north facing high grounds of Snowdonia support a [[Relict (biology)|relict]] pre-glacial flora including the iconic Snowdon lily – ''[[Gagea serotina]]'' – and other [[alpine climate|alpine]] species such as ''[[Saxifraga cespitosa]]'', ''[[Saxifraga oppositifolia]]'' and ''[[Silene acaulis]]''. Wales has a number of plant species not found elsewhere in the UK, including the spotted rock-rose ''[[Tuberaria guttata]]'' on Anglesey and ''[[Draba aizoides]]'' on the Gower.<ref>{{Cite book |title=Atlas of the British Flora|editor1-last=Perring |editor1-first=E.&nbsp;H. |editor2-last=Walters |editor2-first=S.&nbsp;M. |year=1990 |publisher=BSBI |location= Melksham, Great Britain|isbn=978-0-901158-19-2 |page=43}}</ref>