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===Patterns and fitting=== Garment construction is usually guided by a [[pattern (sewing)|sewing pattern]]. A pattern can be quite simple; some patterns are nothing more than a mathematical formula that the sewer calculates based on the intended wearer's measurements. Once calculated, the sewer has the measurements needed to cut the cloth and sew the garment together. At the other end of the spectrum are [[haute couture]] fashion designs. When a couture garment is made of unusual material, or has extreme proportions, the design may challenge the sewer's engineering knowledge. Complex designs are drafted and refitted dozens of times, may take around 40 hours to develop a final pattern, and require 60 hours of cutting and sewing. It is important for a pattern to be created well because the way a completed piece fits is the reason it will either be worn or not.<ref>{{cite book|author1=Steele, Valerie |author2=Patricia Mears, Clare Sauro |name-list-style=amp |title=Ralph Rucci: The Art of Weightlessness|year=2007|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=9780300122787|pages=121β2}}</ref> Most clothing today is mass-produced, and conforms to standard sizing, based on body measurements that are intended to fit the greatest proportion of the population. However, while "standard" sizing is generally a useful guideline, it is little more than that, because there is no industry standard that is "both widely accepted and strictly adhered to in all markets".<ref>{{cite book|last=Calderin|first=Jay|title=Form and Fashion|year=2009|publisher=Rockport Publishers|isbn=9781592535415|page=168}}</ref> Home sewers often work from sewing patterns purchased from companies such as [[Simplicity Pattern|Simplicity]], [[Ebenezer Butterick|Butterick]], [[McCall's]], [[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]], [[Burda Style|Burda]], and many others. Such patterns are typically printed on large pieces of tissue paper; a sewer may simply cut out the required pattern pieces for use but may choose to transfer the pattern onto a thicker paper if repeated use is desired. A sewer may choose to alter a pattern to make it more accurately fit the intended wearer. Patterns may be changed to increase or decrease length; to add or remove fullness; to adjust the position of the waistline, shoulder line, or any other seam, or a variety of other adjustments.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Veblen|first1=Sarah|title=The Complete Guide to Perfect Fitting|date=2012|publisher=Creative Publishing International}}</ref> Volume can be added with elements such as [[pleats]], or reduced with the use of [[dart (sewing)|darts]]. Before work is started on the final garment, test garments may be made, sometimes referred to as [[muslin]]s or [[toile]]s.
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