Editing Roger II of Sicily (section)

==== The Royal Mantle of Roger II ====
Roger II's elaborate royal [[Mantle (royal garment)|mantle]] bears the year 528 of the [[Islamic calendar]] (1133–34); therefore it could not have been used for his coronation.{{sfn|Bauer|2004|pp=115–123}}{{sfn|Bauer|2004|pp=85–95}} This lavish item, made for special events to show power and regality, was most likely worn as a symbol of the Norman's victory and new dynasty in Sicily.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=Mantle of Roger II of Sicily|url=https://www.qantara-med.org/public/show_document.php?do_id=1159&lang=en#_ftn3|access-date=2021-04-18|website=Quantara: Mediterranean Heritage}}</ref> It was later used as a coronation cloak by the [[Holy Roman Emperor]]s and is now in the [[Imperial Treasury, Vienna|Imperial Treasury]] (Schatzkammer) in [[Vienna]].

The mantle is an example of the Normans' multicultural court and a mark of trade in Palermo. It is a luxury object made from red silk imported from the Byzantine Empire, its outer panels embellished with gold embroidery, pearls, enamel and jewels.<ref>{{Citation|last=Kapitaikin|first=Lev A.|title=Sicily and the Staging of Multiculturalism|date=2017-06-20|url=http://doi.wiley.com/10.1002/9781119069218.ch15|work=A Companion to Islamic Art and Architecture|pages=384|editor-last=Flood|editor-first=Finbarr Barry|place=Hoboken, NJ|publisher=John Wiley & Sons, Inc.|language=en|doi=10.1002/9781119069218.ch15|isbn=978-1-119-06921-8|access-date=2020-11-07|editor2-last=Necipoğlu|editor2-first=Gülru}}</ref><ref name=":0" /> The lining panels are separated into five sections made from three separate silks, each woven with gold.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Dolezalek|first=Isabelle|date=30 May 2013|title=Textile Connections? Two Ifrīqiyan Church Treasuries in Norman Sicily and the Problem of Continuity across Political Change|url=https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09503110.2013.767009|journal=Al-Masāq|language=en|volume=25|issue=1|pages=109|doi=10.1080/09503110.2013.767009|s2cid=153723275|issn=0950-3110}}</ref> The pearls are from the [[Persian Gulf]], with thousands outlining each section of the embroidery. Pearls were a common decoration on pan-Mediterranean textiles, but were also used and admired on clothing of the Byzantine Empire.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Dolezalek|first=Isabelle|date=30 May 2013|title=Textile Connections? Two Ifrīqiyan Church Treasuries in Norman Sicily and the Problem of Continuity across Political Change|url=https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09503110.2013.767009|journal=Al-Masāq|language=en|volume=25|issue=1|pages=101|doi=10.1080/09503110.2013.767009|s2cid=153723275|issn=0950-3110}}</ref> The enameled surfaces are also attributed to the Byzantine Empire, as they had many craftsmen specializing in this type of work. The gold embroidery was most likely created by Muslim craftsmen, given the [[tiraz]] bands, the Arabic text in calligraphy, and [[Kufic]] script.<ref name=":0" />{{sfn|Sokoly|2017|pp=275–299}} The piece was made in a private royal workshop, dedicated to creating tiraz fabric and other royal garments.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Tiraz: Inscribed Textiles from the Early Islamic Period|url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tira/hd_tira.htm|access-date=2020-11-07|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art}}</ref> It is one of few surviving mementos of [[Fatimid Caliphate|Fatimid]]-style royal garb preserved in its entirety.{{sfn|Sokoly|2017|pp=291–292}}

The inscription written in the tiraz band along the bottom of the piece states, "Here is what was created in the princely treasury, filled with luck, eminence, majesty, perfection, long-suffering, superiority, welcome, prosperity, liberality, brilliance, pride, beauty, the fulfillment of desires and hopes, the pleasure of days and nights, without cease or change, of glory, devotion, preservation of protection, luck, salvation, victory and capability, in the capital of Sicily, in the year 528 H. [1133–1134]"<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.qantara-med.org/public/show_document.php?do_id=1159&lang=es |title=Manto de Roger II de Sicilia |website=Qantara |accessdate=2021-04-18 |language=es }}</ref> This mantle was made to promote status, bring the wearer good fortune, and to emphasize Roger II's regal power.

In addition to its lavish decoration and color, the mantle uses striking imagery to convey Roger II's power and victory over the previous dynasty. In a scene evoking domination through primal violence, two lions, a [[Heraldry|heraldic]] symbol of a powerful, male ruler, each attack a camel, [[addorsed]] on either side of a central palm tree.<ref name=":0" /> The lions are stylized rather than realistically portrayed. There are also evocations of the cosmos and constellations in the star shapes on the lions' heads. The mantle's pan-Mediterranean influence is brought out in the materials used to create it, the way it was made, and its design.