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====The 1970s and 1980s==== The innovations of the 1960s flowed into the 1970s fashion scene. As a result of model industry associations and standards,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=24 |title=Europe's Leading Model Agency |publisher=Models 1 |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100914131034/http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=24 |archive-date=2010-09-14 |url-status=live }}</ref> model agencies became more business minded, and more thought went into a model's promotional materials. By this time, agencies were starting to pay for a model's publicity.<ref name="history"/> In the early 1970s, [[Scandinavia]] had many tall, leggy, [[blond]]e-haired, blue-eyed models and not enough clients. It was during this time that Ford Models pioneered scouting.<ref name="history"/> They would spend time working with agencies holding modeling contests. This was the precursor to the [[Ford Models Supermodel of the World]] competition, established in 1980. Ford also focused its attention on Brazil, which had a wide array of seemingly "exotic" models, which eventually led to the establishment of Ford Models Brazil. During this time, the ''[[Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue]]'' debuted. The magazine set the trend by photographing "bigger and healthier" California models,<ref name=Slate>{{cite web|url=http://www.slate.com/id/2113612/|title=The Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue: An intellectual history|author=Curtis, Bryan|access-date=11 November 2007|date=16 February 2005|publisher=Washington Post. Newsweek Interactive Co. LLC|work=Slate|archive-url=https://archive.today/20071127013208/http://slate.com/id/2113612/|archive-date=2007-11-27|url-status=live}}</ref> and printing their names by their photos, thus turning many of them into household names and establishing the issue as a hallmark of [[supermodel]] status.<ref name=Slate/> [[File:2007 Beverly Johnson.jpg|thumb|left|upright|alt=Refer to caption|[[Beverly Johnson]] in 2007]] The 1970s marked numerous milestones in fashion. [[Beverly Johnson]] was the first [[African Americans|black]] woman to appear on the cover of U.S. [[Vogue (magazine)|''Vogue'']] in 1974.<ref>Joy Sewing [http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/headline/features/6583995.html Beverly Johnson's got the right attitude] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090826163234/http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/headline/features/6583995.html |date=2009-08-26 }} ''The Houston Chronicle'', Retrieved 23 August 2009</ref> Models, including [[Iman (model)|Iman]], [[Grace Jones]], [[Pat Cleveland]], [[Alva Chinn]], [[Donyale Luna]], [[Minah Bird]], [[Naomi Sims]], and [[Toukie Smith]] were some of the top black fashion models who paved the way for black women in fashion.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Zartosht|first=Shahin|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cV8XEAAAQBAJ&dq=Minah+Bird+1970s&pg=PA32|title=MODELING by Shahin Zartosht: A guide to becoming a Model|date=2021-01-27|publisher=Shahin Zartosht|isbn=979-8-7012-4573-8|language=en}}</ref> In 1975, [[Margaux Hemingway]] landed a then-unprecedented million-dollar contract as the face of [[Fabergé (cosmetics)|Fabergé]]'s Babe perfume and the same year appeared on the cover of ''Time'' magazine, labeled one of the "New Beauties", giving further name recognition to fashion models.<ref>{{cite news |last=Fonseca |first=Nicholas |url=https://ew.com/article/2001/06/29/papas-little-girl/ |title=Entertainment Weekly: ''Papa's Little Girl'' |publisher=Ew.com |date=29 June 2001 |access-date=7 March 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100106020603/http://www.ew.com/ew/article/0,,256227,00.html |archive-date=2010-01-06 |url-status=live }}</ref> Many of the world's most prominent modeling agencies were established in the 1970s and early 1980s. These agencies created the standard by which agencies now run. In 1974, Nevs Models was established in London with only a men's board, the first of its kind. Elite Models was founded in Paris in 1975, as well as Friday's Models in [[Japan]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fridayfarm.net/about_us.html |title=About Us |publisher=Fridayfarm.net |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120908041728/http://www.fridayfarm.net/about_us.html |archive-date=2012-09-08 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.elitemodelsindia.com/index.asp |title=Elite Model Management India Pvt. Ltd |publisher=Elitemodelsindia.com |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120928024650/http://www.elitemodelsindia.com/index.asp |archive-date=2012-09-28 |url-status=live }}</ref> The next year Cal-Carries was established in [[Singapore]], the first of a chain of agencies in Asia. In 1977, Select Model Management and Why Not Models in Milan opened its doors. By the 1980s, agencies such as Premier Model Management, Storm Models, Mikas, Marilyn, and Metropolitan Models had been established. [[File:NaomiCampbell.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Naomi Campbell]], one of the most famous [[supermodel]]s]] In October 1981, ''[[Life (magazine)|Life]]'' cited [[Shelley Hack]], Lauren Hutton and Iman for [[Revlon]], Margaux Hemingway for [[Faberge (cosmetics)|Fabergé]], [[Karen Graham]] for [[Estée Lauder Companies|Estée Lauder]], [[Cristina Ferrare]] for [[Max Factor]], and Cheryl Tiegs for [[CoverGirl]] by proclaiming them the "million dollar faces" of the beauty industry. These models negotiated previously unheard-of lucrative and exclusive deals with giant cosmetics companies, were instantly recognizable, and their names became well known to the public.<ref>Best–Selling Beauties, ''[[Life (magazine)|Life]]'' October 1981, page 120</ref> By the 1980s, most models could make modeling a full-time career. [[Patti Hansen]], one of the top earning models in 1980, earned $200 an hour for print and $2,000 for television plus [[Residual (entertainment industry)|residuals]]; it was estimated that she earned about $300,000 a year in 1980 (equivalent to ${{Format price|{{Inflation|US-GDP|300000|1980}}}} in {{Inflation-year|US-GDP}}).<ref>{{cite magazine |last=Clurman |first=Shirley |url=http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20075859,00.html |title=Who Is Patti Hansen? Just the Successor to Tiegs and Fawcett, or So Says Scavullo |magazine=[[People (magazine)|People]] |date=1980-02-18 |access-date=2012-09-19 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121120213307/http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20075859,00.html |archive-date=2012-11-20 }}</ref> It was common for models to travel abroad and work throughout Europe. As modeling became global, numerous agencies began to think globally. In 1980, Ford Models, the innovator of scouting, introduced the [[Ford Models Supermodel of the World]] contest.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.supermodeloftheworld.com |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20001206212100/http://www.supermodeloftheworld.com/ |url-status=dead |archive-date=2000-12-06 |title=Ford Models Supermodel of the World |publisher=Supermodeloftheworld.com |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> That same year, John Casablancas opened [[Elite Models]] in New York. In 1981, cosmetics companies began contracting top models to lucrative [[Testimonial|endorsement deals]]. By 1983, Elite had developed its own contest, the Elite Model Look competition. In New York, during the 1980s there were so-called "model wars" in which the Ford and Elite agencies fought over models and campaigns. Models were jumping back and forth between agencies such Elite, Wilhelmina, and Ford.<ref>{{cite magazine |last=Rayl |first=Salley |url=http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20077110,00.html |title=The Fashion World Is Rocked by Model Wars, Part Two: the Ford Empire Strikes Back |magazine=[[People (magazine)|People]] |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121120212730/http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20077110,00.html |archive-date=2012-11-20 |url-status=live }}</ref> In New York, the late 1980s trend was the boyish look in which models had short cropped hair and looked [[androgynous]]. In Europe, the trend was the exact opposite. During this time, many American models who were considered more feminine-looking moved abroad.<ref>{{cite web |author=Like |url=http://vimeo.com/13134831 |title=Kitchen Table Conversation with Cindy Morris and Roxan Gould on Vimeo |publisher=Vimeo.com |date=2010-07-06 |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130513115807/http://vimeo.com/13134831 |archive-date=2013-05-13 |url-status=live }}</ref> By the mid-1980s, big hair was made popular by some musical groups, and the boyish look was out. The [[hourglass figure]], a fashionable trend from the late 1940s to the early 1960s, has made a comeback.
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