Editing Kangchenjunga (section)

===Early reconnaissances and attempts===
* Between April 1848 and February 1849, [[Joseph Dalton Hooker]] explored parts of northern Sikkim and eastern Nepal, mainly to collect plants and study the distribution of Himalayan flora. He was based in Darjeeling, and made repeated excursions in the river valleys and into the foothills of Kangchenjunga up to an elevation of {{cvt|15620|ft}}.<ref>{{cite book|author=Hooker, J. D. |year=1854 |title=Himalayan journals; or, Notes of a naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, &c. |url=https://archive.org/stream/himalayanjournal0335hook#page/n9/mode/2up |publisher=John Murray |place=London}}</ref>
* In spring 1855, the [[Germans|German]] explorer [[Hermann von Schlagintweit]] travelled to Darjeeling but was not allowed to proceed further north due to the [[Third Nepal–Tibet War]]. In May, he explored the [[Singalila Ridge]] up to the peak of [[Tonglu, West Bengal|Tonglo]] for a meteorological survey.<ref name=Schlagintweit1871>{{cite book |author=Schlagintweit, H. v. |year=1871 |chapter-url=https://archive.org/stream/reiseninindienu02sakgoog#page/n255/mode/2up |chapter=Die Singhalila Kette zwischen Sikkim und Nepal |title=Reisen in Indien und Hochasien. Eine Darstellung der Landschaft, der Kultur und Sitten der Bewohner, in Verbindung mit klimatischen und geologischen Verhältnissen. Zweiter Band |publisher=Hermann Costenoble |place=Jena}}</ref>
* In 1879, [[Sarat Chandra Das]] and Lama Ugyen-gyatso crossed into Tibet west of "Kanchanjinga" via eastern Nepal and the [[Tashilhunpo Monastery]] en route to [[Lhasa (prefecture-level city)|Lhasa]]. They returned along the same route in 1881.<ref name=Das1902>{{cite book |author=Das, S. C. |year=1902 |title=A Journey to Lhasa and central Tibet |location=New York, London |publisher=E. P. Dutton & Company, John Murray |url=https://archive.org/stream/journeytolhasace00dass#page/n9/mode/2up}}</ref>
* In 1883, a party of [[William Woodman Graham]] together with two [[Swiss people|Swiss]] mountaineers climbed in the area of Kangchenjunga. They were the first who ascended [[Kabru]] within {{cvt|30|-|40|ft}} below the summit. They crossed the Kang La pass and climbed a peak of nearly {{cvt|19000|ft}} from which they examined Jannu. They concluded it was too late in the year for an attempt and returned once again to Darjeeling.<ref name=Blaser2009>{{cite journal |author1=Blaser, W. |name-list-style=amp |author2=Hughes, G. |year=2009 |title=Kabru 1883. A Reassessment |journal=The Alpine Journal |volume=114 |pages=219–228 |url=http://www.himalaya-info.org/Kabru%20Alpine%20Journal%202010.pdf |access-date=27 February 2013 |archive-date=12 May 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120512104810/http://www.himalaya-info.org/Kabru%20Alpine%20Journal%202010.pdf |url-status=dead }}</ref>
* Between October 1885 and January 1886, Rinzin Namgyal surveyed the unexplored north and west sides of Kangchenjunga. He was the first native surveyor to map the circuit of Kangchenjunga and provided sketches of each side of the peak and the adjoining valleys. He also defined the frontiers of Nepal, Tibet and Sikkim in this area.<ref name=Ward2001>{{cite journal |author=Ward, M. |year=2001 |title=Early Exploration of Kangchenjunga and South Tibet by the pundits Rinzin Namgyal, Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen Gyatso |journal=The Alpine Journal |volume=106 |pages=191–196 |url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2001_files/AJ%202001%20191-196%20Ward%20Kangchenjunga.pdf}}</ref>
* In 1899, British mountaineer Douglas Freshfield set out with his party comprising the Italian photographer [[Vittorio Sella]]. They were the first mountaineers to examine the lower and upper ramparts, and the great western face of Kangchenjunga, rising from the Kangchenjunga Glacier.<ref name="Freshfield1903"/>
* The [[1905 Kanchenjunga Expedition]] was headed by [[Aleister Crowley]] who had been part of the team attempting the 1902 ascent of [[K2]]. The team reached an estimated elevation of {{cvt|6500|m}} on the southwest side of the mountain before turning back. The exact height reached is somewhat unclear; Crowley stated that on 31 August, "We were certainly over {{cvt|21000|ft}} and possibly over {{cvt|22000|ft}}", when the team was forced to retreat to Camp 5 by the risk of avalanche. On 1 September, they evidently went further; some members of the team, Reymond, Pache and Salama, "got over the bad patch" that had forced them to return to Camp 5 the day before, and progressed "out of sight and hearing" before returning to Crowley and the men with packs, who could not cross the dangerous section unassisted with their burdens. It is not clear how far Reymond, Pache and Salama had ascended—but in summarizing, Crowley ventured "We had reached a height of approximately {{cvt|25000|ft}}." Attempting a "mutinous" late-in-the-day descent from Camp 5 to Camp 3, climber Alexis Pache who earlier that day had been one of three to ascend possibly higher than any before, and three local porters, were killed in an avalanche.<ref>{{cite book |author1=Isserman, M. |name-list-style=amp |author2=Weaver, S. |year=2008 |title=Fallen Giants: a history of Himalayan mountaineering from the age of empire to the age of extremes |location=Devon |publisher=Duke & Company |pages=61–63 |chapter= |chapter-url= |isbn=978-0-300-11501-7}}</ref> Despite the insistence of one of the men that "the demon of Kangchenjunga was propitiated with the sacrifice", Crowley decided the accident and its ramifications made it impossible to continue the expedition.<ref name="crowley52">{{cite book |last=Crowley |first=A. |chapter=Chapter 52 |title=[[The Confessions of Aleister Crowley]] An Autohagiography |year=1979 |place=London; Boston |publisher=Routledge & Kegan Paul |isbn=0-7100-0175-4}}</ref>
* In 1907, two [[Norwegians]] set about climbing ''Jongri'' via the Kabru glacier to the south, an approach apparently rejected by Graham's party. Progress was very slow, partly because of problems with supplies and porters, and presumably also lack of fitness and acclimatisation. However, from a high camp at about {{cvt|22600|ft}} they were eventually able to reach a point {{cvt|50|or|60|ft|m}} below the summit before they were turned back by strong winds.<ref name=Blaser2009/>
* In 1929, German [[Paul Bauer (mountaineer)|Paul Bauer]] led an expedition team that reached {{cvt|7400|m}} on the northeast spur before being turned back by a five-day [[storm]].<ref name=Bauer>Bauer, P. (1955). ''Kangchenjunga Challenge''. William Kimber, London.</ref>
* In May 1929, the American E. F. Farmer left Darjeeling with native porters, crossed the Kang La into Nepal and climbed up towards the ''Talung Saddle''. When his porters refused to go any further, he climbed alone further upwards through drifting mists but did not return.<ref name=Smythe/>
* In 1930, [[Günter Dyhrenfurth]] led an international expedition comprising the German Uli Wieland, [[Austrians|Austrian]] {{Interlanguage link|Erwin Schneider|de|3=Erwin Schneider (Bergsteiger)}} and [[English people|Englishman]] [[Frank Smythe]] who attempted to climb Kangchenjunga. They failed because of poor weather and snow conditions.<ref name=Smythe/>
* In 1931, Paul Bauer led a second German expedition team who attempted the northeast spur before being turned back by bad weather, illnesses and deaths. The team, including [[Peter Aufschnaiter]], retreated after climbing 300 m higher than the 1929 attempt.<ref name=Bauer/>
* In 1954, [[John Kempe]] led a party comprising J. W. Tucker, S. R. Jackson, G. C. Lewis, [[Trevor Braham|T. H. Braham]] and medical officer D. S. Mathews. They explored the upper Yalung glacier with the intention to discover a practicable route to the great ice-shelf that runs across the southwest face of Kangchenjunga.<ref>{{cite journal |author=Braham, T. H. |date=1955–1956 |title=Kangchenjunga Reconnaissance, 1954 |journal=The Himalayan Journal |volume=19 |url=http://www.himalayanclub.org/journal/kangchenjunga-reconnaissance-1954/ |url-status=dead |archive-date=6 January 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140106041509/http://www.himalayanclub.org/journal/kangchenjunga-reconnaissance-1954/}}</ref> This reconnaissance led to the route used by the successful 1955 expedition.<ref>{{cite journal |author=Braham, T. H. |year=1996 |title=Kangchenjunga: The 1954 Reconnaissance |journal=The Alpine Journal |volume=101 |pages=33–35 |url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%2033-35%20Braham%20Kangchenjunga.pdf}}.</ref>