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==Latter history== ===Urban growth=== The westward growth of London beyond the [[London Wall|City Wall]], and towards the seat of government in [[Westminster]], took place along the banks of the [[River Thames]] and along the roads leading from [[Ludgate]] ([[Fleet Street]] and [[Strand, London|The Strand]]) and [[Newgate]] (''Holborn'' and ''[[High Holborn]]''). This growth, initially limited to [[Farringdon Without]] (which includes a part of Holborn) was well underway in the 12th century, leading to the Ward being retrospectively described as the capital's original [[West End of London|West End]].<ref name="auto"/> In the 12th century St Andrew's was noted in local title deeds as lying on "Holburnestrate"—Holborn Street,<ref>{{cite book|last=Harben|first=Henry|title=A Dictionary of London|publisher=Herbert Jenkins|location=London|year=1918}}</ref> but as the street leads from Roman [[Newgate]], and the church was sited on it by the 10th century, it is probably considerably older. In 1394 the population had grown so large that the Ward of Farringdon had grown too large for effective governance and was formally divided into the separate Wards, (rather than separate named areas within the same Ward) in 1394. The westward growth towards Westminster accelerated in the Tudor period. The westerly ribbon development through the parish was complete before the [[Great Fire of London|Great Fire]] of 1666, with the displacement of people accelerating the development of the rest of the area. The northern fringe the last area to be developed, with this process finalised in the 18th century.<ref>{{cite web|title= Strype map of 1720|url=http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/crace/a/007zzz000000015u000260a0.html}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Horwood map of 1799 |url=http://www.romanticlondon.org/horwoods-plan/#15/51.5216/-0.1203}}</ref> ===Medieval=== [[St Etheldreda's Church, London|St Etheldreda's Church]], in gated [[Ely Place]], was originally the chapel of the [[Bishop of Ely]]'s London palace. This ecclesiastical connection allowed the street to remain part of the county of [[Cambridgeshire]] until the mid-1930s. This meant that [[Ye Olde Mitre]], a pub located in a court hidden behind the buildings of the Place and the Garden, was licensed by the Cambridgeshire Magistrates.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/726471/Things-that-go-bump-on-the-map.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/726471/Things-that-go-bump-on-the-map.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Things that go bump on the map|last=Vitaliev|first=Vitali |author-link=Vitali Vitaliev|date=3 January 2003|work=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|location=London|access-date=12 August 2008}}{{cbignore}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.timeout.com/london/bars/features/1614.html|title=Secret London: Ye Olde Mitre Tavern|last=Hammond|first=Derek|date=28 June 2006|work=[[Time Out (company)|Time Out]]|access-date=12 August 2008|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080726084958/http://www.timeout.com/london/bars/features/1614.html|archive-date=26 July 2008}}</ref> St Etheldreda's is the oldest Roman Catholic church in Britain, and one of two extant buildings in London dating back to the era of [[Edward I|Edward{{nbsp}}I]].<ref name="St Etheldreda’s">{{cite web|title=History of the Church|url=http://www.stetheldreda.com/index.php/history-of-st-etheldredas/|website=stetheldreda.com|quote=It is the oldest Catholic church in England and one of only two remaining buildings in London from the reign of Edward I.|access-date=29 September 2017|archive-date=15 July 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130715075343/http://www.stetheldreda.com/index.php/history-of-st-etheldredas/|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref name="KettlerTrimble2001">{{cite book|author1=Sarah Kettler|author2=Carole Trimble|title=The Amateur Historian's Guide to Medieval and Tudor London, 1066–1600|url=https://archive.org/details/amateurhistorian00kett_1|url-access=registration|year=2001|publisher=Capital Books|isbn=978-1-892123-32-9|page=[https://archive.org/details/amateurhistorian00kett_1/page/103 103]|quote=This is Britain's oldest Roman Catholic church, dating from the 13th century.}}</ref><ref name="Davies1988">{{cite book|author=Andrew Davies|title=Literary London|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-5ckAAAAMAAJ|year=1988|publisher=Pan Macmillan|isbn=978-0-333-45708-5|page=112|quote=In 1874 when the church was bought back by the Roman Catholics it was found to be full of 'inconceivable filth, living and dead'. St Etheldreda's is the oldest Catholic church building in Britain.}}</ref> ===Tudor and Stuart periods=== [[Henry V of England|Henry VII]] paid for the road to be paved in 1494 because the thoroughfare "was so deep and miry that many perils and hazards were thereby occasioned, as well to the king's carriages passing that way, as to those of his subjects". Criminals from the [[Tower of London|Tower]] and [[Newgate Prison|Newgate]] passed up Holborn on their way to be hanged at [[Tyburn]] or [[St Giles Circus|St Giles]].<ref>{{cite book|first=John|last=Timbs|author-link=John Timbs|title=Curiosities of London: Exhibiting the Most Rare and Remarkable Objects of Interest in the Metropolis|url=https://archive.org/stream/curiositiesoflon00timbrich#page/428/mode/1up|year=1855|publisher=D. Bogue|page=428}}</ref> [[Hatton Garden]], the centre of the diamond trade, was leased to a favourite of Queen [[Elizabeth I]], Sir Christopher Hatton, at the insistence of the Queen to provide him with an income. [[File:Great Fire of London Map.png|thumb|The Great Fire died as it reached Holborn's boundary.]] [[File:Roque 1746 London c1.jpg|thumb|Rocque map of 1746. Holborn is developed, but the built-up area stopped at [[River Fleet#Lamb's Conduit|the brook which formed the parish boundary with St Pancras]] (modern King's Cross) to the north.]] The area was not damaged by the [[Great Fire of London]] in 1666, though the area of destruction reached its south-eastern boundary. ===Legal profession=== [[Charles Dickens]] took up residence in [[Furnival's Inn]] (later the site of "[[Holborn Bars]]", the former [[Prudential plc|Prudential]] building designed by [[Alfred Waterhouse]]). Dickens put his character "Pip", in ''[[Great Expectations]]'', in residence at [[Barnard's Inn]] opposite, now occupied by [[Gresham College]].<ref>Chap. 20</ref> [[Staple Inn]], notable as the promotional image for [[Old Holborn]] tobacco,<ref>{{cite book|last1=Hibbert|first1=Christopher|author-link1=Christopher Hibbert|title=The London Encyclopedia|edition=2010|year=1983|publisher=MacMillan |location=London|isbn=1-4050-4925-1|page=397|display-authors=etal}}</ref> is nearby. The three of these were [[Inns of Chancery]]. The most northerly of the [[Inns of Court]], [[Gray's Inn]], is off Holborn, as is [[Lincoln's Inn]]: the area has been associated with the legal professions since mediaeval times, and the name of the local militia (now [[Territorial Army (United Kingdom)|Territorial Army]] unit, the [[Inns of Court & City Yeomanry]]) still reflects that. The unit is nicknamed the ''Devil's Own'', a name given by [[George III]], not due to ferocity in battle, but rather to his dislike of lawyers.<ref>{{cite web|title=The Inns of Court and City Yeomanry |url=http://www.iccy.org.uk/iccy.html}}</ref> ===Historic points of interest=== In the 18th century, Holborn was the location of the infamous [[Mother Clap]]'s [[molly house]] (meeting place for homosexual men). There were 22 inns or taverns recorded in the 1860s. The [[Holborn Empire]], originally [[Weston's Music Hall]], stood between 1857 and 1960, when it was pulled down after structural damage sustained in [[the Blitz]]. The theatre premièred one of the first full-length feature films in 1914, ''[[The World, the Flesh and the Devil (1914 film)|The World, the Flesh and the Devil]]'', a 50-minute [[melodrama]] filmed in [[Kinemacolor]].<ref>{{IMDb title|qid=Q7775909|title=The World, the Flesh and the Devil}}</ref><ref>The full-length documentary ''[[With Our King and Queen Through India]]'', also in Kinemacolor, premièred in February 1912, and the stencil-coloured ''[[The Miracle (1912 film)|The Miracle]]'' opened at the [[Royal Opera House, Covent Garden]] in December 1912.</ref> Subsequently, the area diversified and become recognisable as the modern street. A plaque stands at number 120 commemorating [[Thomas Earnshaw]]'s invention of the [[Marine chronometer]], which facilitated long-distance travel. At the corner of Hatton Garden was the old family department store of [[Gamages]]. Until 1992, the London Weather Centre was located in the street. The Prudential insurance company relocated in 2002. The [[Daily Mirror]] offices used to be directly opposite it, but the site is now occupied by [[Sainsbury's]] head office. [[File:Peter Pan statue by Diarmuid Byron O'Connor.JPG|thumb|Peter Pan statue at [[Great Ormond Street Hospital]]]] Behind the Prudential Building lies the Anglo-Catholic church of St Alban the Martyr.<ref name="stalban">[http://www.stalbansholborn.org/ St Alban the Martyr] accessed 14 December 2013</ref> Originally built in 1863 by architect [[William Butterfield]], it was gutted during the Blitz but later reconstructed, retaining Butterfield's west front. On [[Holborn Circus]] lies the Church of [[St Andrew, Holborn|St Andrew]], an ancient [[Guild]] Church that survived the [[Great Fire of London]]. However, the parochial authority decided to commission [[Sir Christopher Wren]] to rebuild it. Although the nave was destroyed in the Blitz, the reconstruction was faithful to Wren's original. Just to the west of the circus, but originally sited in the middle, is a large equestrian statue of [[Albert, Prince Consort|Prince Albert]] by Charles Bacon, erected in 1874 as the city's official monument to him. It was presented by Charles Oppenheim, of the diamond trading company [[De Beers]], whose headquarters is in nearby Charterhouse Street. [[File:Renaissance Chancery Court Hotel1.jpg|thumb|right|Former [[Phoenix Group|Pearl Assurance Company]] building, now the [[Rosewood London]]]]
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