Editing Model (person) (section)

====The 1960s and the beginning of the industry====
[[File:Astrid Andersen 01.jpg|thumb|alt=Models walking single file|Models on [[Runway (fashion)|runway]] at a [[fashion show]] ]]
In the 1960s, the modelling world established [[Modeling agency|modelling agencies]]. Throughout Europe, secretarial services acted as models' agents charging them weekly rates for their messages and bookings. For the most part, models were responsible for their own billing. In Germany, agents were not allowed to work for a percentage of a person's earnings, so they referred to themselves as secretaries. Except for a few models travelling to Paris or New York, travelling was relatively unheard of for a model. Most models only worked in one market due to different labour laws governing modelling in various countries. In the 1960s, Italy had many fashion houses and [[fashion magazines]] but desperately needed models. Italian agencies often coerced models to return to Italy without work visas by withholding their pay.<ref name="history">{{cite web|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080708041838/http://www.modelscomposites.com/history.htm|url=http://www.modelscomposites.com/history.htm|archive-date=8 July 2008|date=January 2007|title=A Brief History Of Modelling|author=Peter Marlowe|website=The Peter Marlowe Model Composite Archives}}</ref> They would also pay their models in cash, which models would have to hide from [[customs]] agents. It was not uncommon for models staying in hotels such as La Louisiana in [[Paris]] or the Arena in [[Milan]] to have their hotel rooms raided by the police looking for their work visas. It was rumoured that competing agencies were behind the raids. This led many agencies to form worldwide chains; for example, the [[Marilyn Agency]] has branches in Paris and New York.<ref name="history"/>

By the late 1960s, [[London]] was considered the best market in Europe due to its more organised and innovative approach to modelling. It was during this period that models began to become household names. Models such as [[Jean Shrimpton]], [[Tania Mallet]], [[Celia Hammond]], [[Twiggy]], and [[Penelope Tree]] dominated the London fashion scene and were well paid, unlike their predecessors.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9013918/David-Baileys-favourite-model-Jean-Shrimpton-was-the-Shrimp-who-sparked-the-Sixties.html |title=David Bailey's favourite model Jean Shrimpton was the Shrimp who sparked the Sixties – Telegraph |publisher=Fashion.telegraph.co.uk |access-date=2012-09-19 |location=London |first=Lisa |last=Armstrong |date=2012-01-20 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120827035540/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9013918/David-Baileys-favourite-model-Jean-Shrimpton-was-the-Shrimp-who-sparked-the-Sixties.html |archive-date=2012-08-27 |url-status=live }}</ref> Twiggy became The Face of '66 at the age of 16.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.twiggylawson.co.uk/fashion.html/ |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20030211153058/http://www.twiggylawson.co.uk/fashion.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=2003-02-11 |title=Twiggy – The Official Site |publisher=Twiggylawson.co.uk |date=1966-02-23 |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> At this time, model agencies were not as restrictive about the models they represented, although it was uncommon for them to sign shorter models. Twiggy, who stood at {{convert|5|ft|6|in|cm}} with a 32" bust and had a boy's haircut, is credited with changing model ideals. At that time, she earned {{GBPConvert|80|year=1966|showdate=no}} an hour, while the average wage was {{GBPConvert|15|year=1966|showdate=no}} a week.

[[File:Jean Shrimpton (1965).jpg|thumb|upright|alt=Refer to caption|[[Jean Shrimpton]] in 1965]]
In 1967, seven of the top model agents in London formed the Association of London Model Agents. The formation of this association helped legitimise modelling and changed the fashion industry. Even with a more professional attitude towards modelling, models were still expected to have their hair and makeup done before they arrived at a shoot. Meanwhile, agencies took responsibility for a model's promotional materials and branding. That same year, former top fashion model [[Wilhelmina Cooper]] opened up her own fashion agency with her husband called [[Wilhelmina Models]]. By 1968, FM Agency and [[Models&nbsp;1]] were established and represented models in a similar way that agencies do today.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=23 |title=Europe's Leading Model Agency |publisher=Models 1 |access-date=2012-09-19 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121020130053/http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=23 |archive-date=2012-10-20 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fmmodelagency.com/contact.aspx?nav=2 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090928133313/http://www.fmmodelagency.com/contact.aspx?nav=2 |url-status=dead |archive-date=2009-09-28 |title=FM Agency – London – Contact |publisher=Fmmodelagency.com |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> By the late 1960s, models were treated better and were making better wages. One of the innovators, Ford Models, was the first agency to advance models money they were owed and would often allow teen models, who did not live locally, to reside in their house, a precursor to model housing.