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==Types== Fishing reels can be classified into two design groups: '''rotary-spool''' and '''fixed-spool'''. Rotary-spool designs are essentially similar to a [[spinning wheel]] or [[windlass]], where the [[Bobbin|spool]] actively rotates to wind the line around itself. Fixed-spool designs, on the other hand, behave like a [[spindle (textiles)|spindle]] and have no rotating motion of the spool, instead using a separate spinning mechanism that revolves around the spool to drag and wrap the line around onto the spool. === Rotary-spool === Rotary-spool reels can be further subdivided into two types: '''single-action''' and '''multiplier'''. Single-action reels have a synchronous rotating action between the crank handle and the spool (hence the name, "single[-[[ratio]]] action"), and quite often the handle is mounted directly on the spool frame (in which case, the spool frame itself becomes the [[crank (mechanism)|crank]]). Multiplier reels, on the other hand, have an internal [[gear train]] design that amplifies the number of spool turns for every turn of the crank handle,<ref>Henshall 1881, p. 244. A multiplying reel uses a [[gear]] system to produce two or more revolutions of the central shaft (spool) for every revolution of the crank handle.</ref> allowing much faster line retrievals. The spool on multiplier reels also spins in the opposite direction to that of single-action spools. With larger-capacity spools (typically in multiplier reels), there is usually a slider mechanism in front of the spool β known as the '''line guide''' β that pushes the line side-to-side in an [[oscillating]] motion, which allows the line winding to be more evenly distributed across the spool instead of bunching up at one section. ==== Centrepin reel ==== <span id="Float reel"></span><span id="Centerpin reel"></span><span id="Center pin reel"></span> [[File:The Leeds Centre-Pin reel.jpg|thumb|A centrepin reel]] The '''centrepin reel''' (or '''centerpin''', '''center pin''', or '''float reel''') is a single-action reel which runs freely enough on its axle ("centrepin"). The centrepin reel is the earliest fishing reel design invented by humans, and is historically and currently used for [[coarse fishing]]. Instead of a mechanical drag, the angler's thumb is typically used to control the fish. Fishing in the margins for carp or other heavy fish with relatively light tackle is very popular with a 'pin' and is often used for 'trotting' a method in which a float on the line suspends a bait a certain depth to flow with the current along the waterway. During the 1950s and 1960s, many anglers in England began fishing with a centrepin reel. Despite this, the centrepin is today mostly used by coarse anglers, who remain a small proportion of the general fishing population. [[Image:browntrout.jpg|thumb|right|Fly reel and rod with a caught [[brown trout]]]] A special class of centrepin reel known as the '''fly reel''', used specifically for [[fly fishing]], is normally operated by manually stripping the line off the reel with one hand, while casting the rod with the other hand. The main purpose of a fly reel is to help cast ultralight [[fly lure]]s and provide smooth uninterrupted [[tension (physics)|tension]] (drag) when a fish makes a long run, and counterbalance the weight of the fly rod when casting. When used in [[fly fishing]], the fly reel or fly casting reel has traditionally been rather simple in terms of mechanical construction, and little has changed from the design patented by [[Orvis|Charles F. Orvis]] of [[Vermont]] in 1874.<ref name="HEN">Henshall 1881</ref> Orvis first introduced the idea of using light metals with multiple perforated holes to construct the housing, resulting in a lighter reel that also allowed the spooled fly line to dry more quickly than a conventional, solid-sided design.<ref name="HEN"/> Early fly reels placed the crank handle on the right side of the reel. Most had no drag mechanism, but were fitted with a click/pawl mechanism intended to keep the reel from overrunning when line was pulled from the spool. To slow a fish, the angler simply applied hand pressure to the rim of the revolving spool (known as "palming the rim").<ref name="HEN"/> Later, these click/pawl mechanisms were modified to provide a limited adjustable drag of sorts. Although adequate for smaller fish, these did not possess a wide adjustment range or the power to slow larger fish. At one time, multiplier fly reels were widely available. These reels had a geared line retrieve of 2:1 or 3:1 that allowed faster retrieval of the fly line. However, their additional weight, complexity and expense did not justify the advantage of faster line retrieval in the eyes of many anglers. As a result, today they are rarely used, and have largely been replaced by large-arbor designs with large diameter spools for faster line retrieval. Automatic fly reels use a coiled spring mechanism that pulls the line into the reel with the flick of a lever. Automatic reels tend to be heavy for their size, and have limited line capacity. Automatic fly reels peaked in popularity during the 1960s, and since that time they have been outsold many times over by manual fly reels. Modern fly reels typically have more sophisticated disc-type drag systems made of composite materials that feature increased adjustment range, consistency, and resistance to high temperatures from drag friction. Most of these fly reels also feature large-arbor spools designed to reduce line memory, maintain consistent drag and assist the quick retrieval of slack line in the event a hooked fish makes a sudden run towards the angler. Most modern fly reels are ambidextrous, allowing the angler to place the crank handle of the reel on either the right or the left side as desired. Saltwater fly reels are designed specifically for use in an ocean environment. Saltwater fly reels are normally large-arbor designs, having a much larger diameter spool than most freshwater fly reels. These large arbor reels provide an improved retrieve ratio and considerably more line and backing capacity, optimizing the design for the long runs of powerful ocean [[game fish]]. To prevent corrosion, saltwater fly reels often use aerospace aluminum frames and spools, electroplated and/or [[stainless steel]] components, with sealed and waterproof bearing and drive mechanisms. ; Fly reel operation Fly reels are normally manual, single-action designs. Rotating a handle on the side of the reel rotates the spool which retrieves the line, usually at a 1:1 ratio (i.e., one complete revolution of the handle equals one revolution of the spool). Fly reels are one of the simplest reels and have far fewer parts than a spinning reel. The larger the fish the more important the reel becomes. On the outside of the reel there are two levels of knobs these are the spool release and the drag adjustment. ; Fly reel drag systems Fly-reel drag systems have two purposes. One, they prevent spool overrun when stripping line from the reel while casting, and two, to tire out running fish by exerting pressure on the line that runs in the opposite direction. There are four main drag systems that are used with the fly reel. These are the ratchet-and-pawl, caliper drags, disc drags, and center-line drags. The ratchet-and-pawl drag clicks automatically while the spool is spinning. The caliper drag causes the calipers to brush up against the reel spool. A disc drag is when pressure is applied on the plates which then applies pressure on the spool. Center-line drags also known as the best kind of drag because the pressure is directly on the spool close to the axis of rotation. ==== Sidecast reel ==== <span id="Sidecast reel"></span><span id="Sidecast reel"></span><span id="Sidecast reel"></span> [[File:Alvey Sidecast reel.jpg|thumb|Australian made "Alvey" sidecast reel]] The '''sidecast reel''' takes elements of the design of the centrepin reel, but adds a bracket that allows the reel to be rotated 90Β° for casting and then returned to the original position to retrieve line. In the casting position, the spool face is perpendicular to the rod and the axle is parallel, and the line is free to slide off the side of the spool like on a [[#Spinning reel|spinning reel]]. The advantage of such design is that the reel is direct-driven, and during casting the line release is as smooth as that of a spinning reel, but it does require an extra hand movement to start reeling. Sidecast reels are popular with anglers in Australia for all forms of freshwater and saltwater fishing. Most common is their use for [[surf fishing]] (beachcasting), or [[rock fishing|off the rocks]], often with a larger diameter spool ({{cvt|6|-|7|in|disp=or}}) and paired with a {{cvt|12|β|16|ft|disp=or}} [[fishing rod#Surf rods|surfcasting rod]]. The most famous brand of sidecast reels is Alvey Reels, a [[Brisbane]]-based fishing tackle manufacturer established in 1920. ==== Conventional reel ==== [[File:Fishing reel (1).jpg|thumb|A trolling reel]] <span id="Trolling reel"></span>The '''conventional reel''', also known as the '''trolling reel''' (due to its popularity in [[recreational boat fishing|recreational boat]] [[trolling (fishing)|trolling]]) or "'''drum reel'''" (due to its often [[drum (container)|drum]]-like cylindrical shape), is the most classical design of multiplier reels. It can be mounted (more often) above or below the rod handle, with the spool axis being perpendicular to the rod. In such a setup the line does not go over the end of the spool like it does with a spinning reel. Most modern conventional reels have a ''line guide'' that slides left and right when cranking to ensure a more even wrapping of the line onto the spool. There are two types of trolling reels depending on the [[#Drag mechanisms|drag system]] design, namely the star drag reels and lever drag reels. Star drag reels are like most baitcasters, because they have a star-shaped drag control knob used to apply drag as well as a little lever to put them into free spool. The lever drag reel uses a drag lever to perform both functions as it can apply drag and put the reel into free spool. With either type, care must be taken to prevent backlash while they are in free spool. Keeping a thumb on the spool is one way to prevent a free spool backlash. Some smaller sizes of conventional reels can be cast, but large conventional reels are not meant for casting; the larger they are the more difficult they become to cast. Conventional reels are for really big fish and are usually used offshore. As a tool for [[Deep-sea fishing]], they are mostly designed for trolling but can also be used for drift fishing, butterfly jigging and "deep drop" fishing. They are usually mounted on short, often very stiff rods called "boat" rods. ==== Baitcasting reel ==== <span id="Revolving-spool reel"></span><span id="Multiplying reel"></span> [[File:Abu Garcia Ambassadeur baitcasting reel.jpg|thumb|An older design baitcasting reel β the [[ABU Garcia]] Ambassadeur]] [[Image:Baitcaster.jpeg|thumb|A more modern baitcasting reel]] The '''baitcasting reel''' or '''baitcaster''' is a multiplying reel like modified from the [[#Conventional reel|conventional reel]], but with a lighter spool and a higher, more forwardly positioned line guide to facilitate farther and smoother [[casting (fishing)|casting]], hence the name. The baitcasting reel is always mounted above the rod handle (of what is known as a "casting rod"), hence its other name given to it in New Zealand and Australia, the '''overhead reel'''. The line is stored on a [[bearing (mechanical)|bearing]]-supported, more freely revolving spool that is geared so that a single revolution of the crank handle results in multiple (usually 4Γ or more) revolutions of the spool.<ref name="HEN"/> The baitcasting reel design will operate well with a wide variety of fishing lines ranging from [[braided fishing line|braided multifilament]], heat-fused "[[multifilament fishing line|Superline]]s", copolymer, [[fluorocarbon]] and nylon [[monofilament fishing line|monofilament]]s (''see'' [[Fishing line]]). Most baitcasting reels can also easily be palmed or thumbed to increase the drag, set the hook, or to accurately halt the lure at a given point in the cast. The baitcasting reel dates from at least the mid-17th century, but came into wide use by amateur anglers during the 1870s.<ref name="HEN"/> Early baitcasting reels were often constructed with [[brass]] or iron gears, with casings and spools made of brass, [[Nickel silver|German silver]] or [[hard rubber]].<ref name="HEN"/> Featuring multiplying gears ranging from 2:1 to 4:1, these early reels had no drag mechanism, and anglers used their thumb on the spool to provide resistance to runs by a fish.<ref name="HEN"/> As early as the 1870s, some models used bearings to mount the spool; as the free-spinning spool tended to cause backlash with strong pulls on the line, manufacturers soon incorporated a clicking [[pawl]] mechanism.<ref name="HEN"/> This "clicker" mechanism was never intended as a drag, but used solely to keep the spool from overrunning, much like a fly reel.<ref name="HEN"/> Baitcasting reel users soon discovered that the clicking noise of the pawls provided valuable audible warning that a fish had taken the live bait, allowing the rod and reel to be left in a rod holder while awaiting a strike by a fish.<ref name="HEN"/> Most fishing reels are suspended from the bottom side of the rod, since this position doesn't require wrist strength to overcome gravity while enabling the angler to cast and retrieve without changing hands.<ref name="HEN"/> The baitcasting reel's unusual mounting position atop the rod is an accident of history.<ref name="HEN"/> Baitcasting reels were originally designed to be cast when positioned atop the rod, then rotated upside-down to operate the crank handle while playing a fish or retrieving line.<ref name="HEN"/> However, in practice most anglers preferred to keep the reel atop the rod for both cast and retrieve by simply transferring the rod to the left hand for the retrieve, then reverse-winding the crank handle.<ref name="HEN"/> Because of this preference, mounting the crank handle on the right side of a bait casting reel (with standard clockwise crank handle rotation) has become customary, though models with left-hand retrieve have gained in popularity in recent years thanks to user familiarity with the spinning reel.<ref name="SCH">Schultz, Ken, ''Schultz's Essentials of Fishing: The Only Guide You Need to Catch Freshwater and Saltwater Fish'', John Wiley & Sons, {{ISBN|9780470444313}} (2010) pp. 147β150,154.</ref> Many of today's baitcasting reels are constructed using [[aluminium alloy]], [[stainless steel]], [[wikt:synthetic|synthetic]] [[composite material|composite]]s such as [[fiberglass-reinforced plastic]] or [[carbon fiber]], alone or in combination; newer but more expensive materials such as [[titanium alloy|titanium]] and [[magnesium alloy]]s can also be found occasionally. They call for a rod that has a trigger finger hook located in the handle area. They typically include a level-wind mechanism to prevent the line from being trapped under itself on the spool during rewind and interfering with subsequent casts. Many are also fitted with anti-reverse handles and drags designed to slow runs by large and powerful game fish. Because the baitcasting reel uses the weight and momentum of the lure to pull the line from the rotating spool, it normally requires lures weighing 1/4 oz. or more to cast a significant distance.<ref name="PAR">Parsons, P. Allen, ''Complete Book of Fresh Water Fishing'', New York, Harper & Row Inc., {{ISBN|0060715006}}, 9780060715007 (1963), pp. 71β73</ref> Recent developments have seen baitcasting reels with gear ratios as high as 7.1/1. Higher gear ratios allow much faster retrieval of line, but sacrifice some amount of strength in exchange, since the additional gear teeth required reduces torque as well as the strength of the gear train.<ref name="SCH"/> This could be a factor when fighting a large and powerful fish.<ref name="SCH"/> Two variations of the revolving spool bait casting reel are the conventional [[surf fishing]] reel and the big game reel. These are very large and robust fishing reels, designed and built for heavy saltwater species such as tuna, marlin, sailfish and sharks. Surf fishing reels are normally mounted to long, two-handed rods; these reels frequently omit level-wind and braking mechanisms to achieve extremely long casting distances. Big game reels are not designed for casting, but are instead used for [[trolling (fishing)|trolling]] or fishing set baits and lures; they are ideal for fighting large and heavy fish off a pier or boat. These reels normally use sophisticated star or lever drags to play out huge saltwater gamefish. ;Baitcasting Reel Operation To cast a baitcasting rod and reel, the reel is turned on its side, the "free spool" feature engaged, and the thumb placed on the spool to hold the lure in position. The cast is performed by snapping the rod backward to the 2 o'clock position, then casting it forward in a smooth motion, allowing the lure to pull the line from the reel. The thumb is used to contact the line, moderating the revolutions of the spool and braking the lure when it reaches the desired aiming point. Though modern centrifugal and/or magnetic braking systems help to control backlash, using a bait casting reel still requires practice and a certain amount of finesse on the part of the fisherman for best results. ;Advantages of Baitcasting Reels While spincasting and spinning reels are easier to operate because fishing line leaves the spool freely during a cast, baitcasting reels have the potential to overrun: a casting issue in which the reel's spool does not spin at a rate equal to the speed of fishing line leaving the reel. Professional fishermen, however, prefer baitcasters because baitcasting reels allow anglers more control over their casts. Since a baitcaster's spool spins along with the fishing line leaving the reel, a simple flick of the thumb can stop a cast early or slow a lure while it is still in the air. This grants anglers such as bass fishermen more accuracy in their casts. Furthermore, a baitcaster's design allows a fisherman to make casts at a faster rate, even with heavier baits. ;Disadvantages Of Baitcasting Reels * Effective use of baitcasting reels requires prior experience and a developed skill set, thus it is unsuitable for beginners. * There are higher risks of getting backlashes during the cast without proper techniques. * One must know about spool tension adjustment for different spool sizes. * Unsuitable for light lures. * More costly than spinning reels. === Fixed-spool === Fixed spool reels can have either an "open" design, where the spool is exposed to the outside; or an "enclosed" design, where the spool is concealed under an [[housing (engineering)|enclosure]] with a front hole that allows passage of the line. There is typically an internal [[axle]] that imparts a slight [[reciprocating motion]] to the spool, which allows the line to be wrapped in a more evenly distributed fashion. ==== Spinning reel ==== [[Image:Fishing reel.jpg|thumb|A spinning reel]] <span id="Spinning reel"></span><span id="Fixed-spool reel"></span>'''Spinning reels''', also called '''fixed spool reels''' or "'''egg beaters'''", are open-design fixed-spool reels that were in use in North America as early as the 1870s.<ref name="HEN"/> They were originally developed to allow the use of artificial flies, or other lures for trout or salmon, that were too light in weight to be easily cast by conventional or baitcasting reels.<ref name="HEN"/> Spinning reels are normally mounted below the rod; this positioning conforms to gravity, requiring no wrist strength to maintain the reel in position. For right-handed persons, the spinning rod is held and cast by the strong right hand, leaving the left hand free to operate the crank handle mounted on the left side of the reel. Invention of the spinning reel solved the problem of backlash, since the reel had no rotating spool capable of overrunning and tangling the line. The name of Holden Illingworth, a textiles magnate, was first associated with the modern form of fixed-spool spinning reel. When casting the Illingworth reel, line was drawn off the leading edge of the spool, but was restrained and rewound by a line pickup, a device which orbits around the stationary spool. Because the line did not have to pull against a rotating spool, much lighter lures could be cast than with conventional reels. In 1948, the Mitchell Reel Company of [[Cluses]], France introduced the Mitchell 300, a spinning reel with a design that oriented the face of the fixed spool forward in a permanently fixed position below the fishing rod. The Mitchell reel was soon offered in a range of sizes for all fresh and saltwater fishing. A manual line pickup was used to retrieve the cast line, which eventually developed into a wire bail design that automatically recaptured the line upon cranking the retrieve handle. An anti-reverse lever prevented the crank handle from rotating while a fish was pulling line from the spool, and this pull can be altered with adjustable drag systems which allow the spool to rotate, but not the handle. With the use of light lines testing from two to six pounds, modern postwar spinning reels were capable of casting lures as light as {{convert|1/8|oz}}, and sometimes lighter. With all fixed-spool reels, the line is released in coils or loops from the leading edge of the non-rotating spool. To shorten or stop the outward cast of a lure or bait, the angler uses a finger or thumb placed in contact with the line and/or the leading edge of the spool to retard or stop the flight of the lure. Because of the design's tendency to twist and untwist the line as it is cast and retrieved, most spinning reels operate best with fairly limp and flexible fishing lines. Though spinning reels do not suffer from backlash, line can occasionally be trapped underneath itself on the spool or even detach from the reel in loose loops of line. Some of these issues can be traced to overfilling the spool with line, while others are due to the way in which the line is wound onto the spool by the rotating bail or pickup. Various oscillating spool mechanisms have been introduced over the years in an effort to solve this problem. Spinning reels also tend to have more issues with twisting of the fishing line. Line twist in spinning reels can occur from the spin of an attached lure, the action of the wire bail against the line when engaged by the crank handle, or even retrieval of line that is under load (spinning reel users normally pump the rod up and down, then retrieve the slack line to avoid line twist and stress on internal components). To minimize line twist, many anglers who use a spinning reel manually reposition the bail after each cast with the pickup nearest the rod to minimize line twist. ;Fixed spool reel operation Fixed spool reels are cast by grasping the line with the forefinger against the rod handle, opening the bale arm and then using a backward swing of the rod followed by a forward cast while releasing the line with the forefinger. The point of release should be trialled to find optimum angle for your casting. The forefinger is then placed in contact with the departing line and the leading edge of the spool to slow or stop the outward cast. On the retrieve, one hand operates the crank handle, while the large rotating wire cage or bail (either manually or trigger-operated) serves as the line pickup, restoring the line to its original position on the spool. ;Fixed spool advantages Spinning reels were originally developed to better cast light-weight lures and baits. Today, spinning reels continue to be an excellent alternative to baitcasters, reels which have difficulty casting lighter lures. Furthermore, because spinning reels do not suffer from backlash, spinning reels are easier and more convenient to use for some fishermen. ==== Spincast reel ==== [[Image:Abu Garcia Abumatic spincast reel.jpg|thumb|A spincast reel]] '''Spincast reels''' are fixed-spool reels with the spool and line pickup mechanisms enclosed within a cylindrical or cylindroconoidal cover, which has a hole at the front to transmit the line. The first commercial spincast reels were introduced by the Denison-Johnson Reel Company and the Zero Hour Bomb Company (ZEBCO) in 1949.<ref name="BAS">Bashline, Jim, ''The Spin-Cast Reel: It's Not Just For Beginners Anymore'', Field & Stream Magazine, ISSN 8755-8599, Vol. 85, No. 2 (June 1980), p. 98</ref><ref name="NET">Netherby, Steve, ''Johnson Wax Outdoors'', ISSN 8755-8599, Vol. 84, No. 10 (February 1980), p. 80</ref> Spincast reels avoid the problem of backlash found in baitcast designs, while reducing line twist and snare complaints sometimes encountered with traditional spinning reel designs. Just as with the spinning reel, the line is thrown from a fixed spool and can therefore be used with relatively light lures and baits. However, the spincast reel eliminates the large wire bail and line roller of the spinning reel in favor of one or two simple pickup pins and a metal cup to wind the line on the spool. Traditionally mounted above the rod, the spincast reel is also fitted with an external nose cone that encloses and protects the fixed spool. Spincast reels may also be described as ''closed face reels''. With a fixed spool, spincast reels can cast lighter lures than bait cast reels, although friction of the nose cone guide and spool cup against the uncoiling line reduces casting distance compared to spinning reels. Spincast reel design requires the use of narrow spools with less line capacity than either baitcasting or spinning reels of equivalent size, and cannot be made significantly larger in diameter without making the reel too tall and unwieldy. These limitations severely restrict the use of spin cast reels in situations such as fishing at depth, when casting long distances, or where fish can be expected to make long runs. Like other types of reels, spin cast reels are frequently fitted with both anti-reverse mechanisms and friction drags, and some also have level-wind (oscillating spool) mechanisms. Most spin cast reels operate best with limp monofilament lines, though at least one spin cast reel manufacturer installs a thermally fused "superline" into one of its models as standard equipment. During the 1950s and into the mid-1960s, they were widely used and very popular, though the spinning reel has since eclipsed them in popularity in North America. They remain a favorite fishing tool for [[catfish]] fishing and also for young beginners in general. ;Spincast reel Operation Pressing a button on the rear of the reel disengages the line pickup, and the button is then released during the forward cast to allow the line to fly off the spool. The button is pressed again to stop the lure at the position desired. Upon cranking the handle, the pickup pin immediately re-engages the line and spools it onto the reel. ==== Underspin reel ==== [[File:Underspin reel 2.jpg|thumb|Underspin (triggerspin) reel]] '''Underspin reels''' or '''triggerspin reels''' are variants of spincast reels that is designed for mounting underneath a standard spinning rod. The reel foot is now located on top of the reel (like a spinning reel), and the line release button is replaced by a front lever. With the reel's weight suspended beneath the rod, underspin reels are generally more comfortable to cast and hold for long periods, and the ability to use all standard spinning rods greatly increases its versatility compared to traditional spin cast reels. ;Underspin Reel Operation When the line release lever/trigger is lifted up by the forefinger (usually the [[index finger]] of the rod-holding hand), the line catch inside the reel disengages and retracts, and the line is free to slide off the fixed spool. In some modern designs (e.g. the [[Pflueger (fishing)|Pflueger]] "President" reel), keeping the lever fully pulled up will however protrude the whole spool forward and pinch the line against the enclosure interior, thus halting the line release. During line retrieval, the mechanism inside the reel will engage the line catch again, which protrudes out to "grab" the line and wrap it around the spool. When necessary, the lever can be activated once again to stop the lure at a given point in the retrieval.
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