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=== 20th century changes === [[File:StateLibQld 1 106448 Celebrations at the Belle Vue Hotel, Brisbane, January 1940.jpg|thumb|left|Black tie worn at a dinner party in the 1940s]] The earliest dinner jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons, and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk. By the turn of the twentieth century, the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with the jacket they were of the same material. Edwardian [[dandy|dandies]] often opted for Oxford grey or a very dark blue for their evening wear.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/06-Edwardian.htm |title=History: Edwardian Era |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> By World War I, the grey option had fallen out of favour but the "midnight blue" alternative became increasingly popular and rivalled black by the mid-1930s. Notch lapels, imported from the ordinary business suit, were a brief vogue in the 1920s.<ref name="blacktieguide">{{cite web |url=http://blog.blacktieguide.com/2014/03/06/spotlight-the-notched-lapel/ |title=Spotlight: The Notched Lapel |date=6 March 2014 |website=Black Tie Blog |access-date=10 January 2019 |archive-date=22 July 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140722114214/http://blog.blacktieguide.com/2014/03/06/spotlight-the-notched-lapel/ |url-status=dead }}</ref> A single stripe of braid covering the outseam on each leg was an occasional variation at first but became standard by the 1930s. At this time double-breasted jackets and white jackets became popular for wear in hot weather.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/08-Depression_Era.htm |title=History: Depression Era |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> Colour, texture and pattern became increasingly popular in warm-weather jackets in the 1950s.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/09-Post_War.htm |title=History: Postwar Period |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> In the 1960s, these variations became increasingly common regardless of season or climate. Notch lapels were once again a fad.<ref name="blacktieguide"/> By the 1970s, mass-market retailers began offering white and coloured versions of the entire suit to its rental customers.<ref name="blacktieguide2">{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/10-Jet_Age.htm |title=History: Jet Age |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/11-Counterculture.htm |title=History: Counter-culture Era |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> The 1980s vogue for nostalgic and retro styles returned evening wear to its black tone.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/13-Yuppie_Pt2.htm |title=History: Yuppie Years |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref> Notch lapels returned for good in the 1980s, and in the 1990s dinner jackets increasingly took on other traits of the business suit, such as two- and three-button styling, flap pockets, and centre vents. These trends have continued into the early 21st century, and midnight blue is now once again a popular alternative.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/14-Millennium.htm |title=History: Millennial Era |website=Black Tie Guide |access-date=1 April 2011}}</ref>
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