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===Society of Decorative Artists (1901–1945)=== The emergence of Art Deco was closely connected with the rise in status of decorative artists, who until late in the 19th century were considered simply artisans. The term {{lang|fr|arts décoratifs}} had been invented in 1875{{citation needed|date=December 2023}}, giving the designers of furniture, textiles, and other decoration official status. The ''Société des artistes décorateurs'' (Society of Decorative Artists), or SAD, was founded in 1901, and decorative artists were given the same rights of authorship as painters and sculptors. A similar movement developed in Italy. The first international exhibition devoted entirely to the decorative arts, the ''[[Prima Esposizione Internazionale d'Arte Decorativa Moderna|Esposizione Internazionale d'Arte Decorativa Moderna]]'', was held in [[Turin]] in 1902. Several new magazines devoted to decorative arts were founded in Paris, including ''Arts et décoration'' and ''L'Art décoratif moderne''. Decorative arts sections were introduced into the annual salons of the ''Sociéte des artistes français'', and later in the {{lang|fr|[[Salon d'Automne]]}}. French nationalism also played a part in the resurgence of decorative arts, as French designers felt challenged by the increasing exports of less expensive German furnishings. In 1911, SAD proposed a major new international exposition of decorative arts in 1912. No copies of old styles would be permitted, only modern works. The exhibit was postponed until 1914; and then, because of the war, until 1925, when it gave its name to the whole family of styles known as "Déco".{{Sfn|Benton|Benton|Wood|2003|pages=165–170}} <gallery mode="packed" heights="200"> File:Art Deco table, chairs, carpet.jpg|Table and chairs by [[Maurice Dufrêne]] and carpet by [[Paul Follot]] at the 1912 [[Société des artistes décorateurs|Salon des artistes décorateurs]] File:‘Lady with Panther’ by George Barbier for Cartier, 1914.jpg|''Lady with Panther'' by [[George Barbier (illustrator)|George Barbier]] for [[Louis Cartier]] (1914). Display card commissioned by Cartier shows a woman in a [[Paul Poiret]] gown. File:Jacques-émile ruhlmann, poltrona 'oreille cassée', parigi 1914, 01.JPG|Armchair by [[Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann]] (1914), now in the [[Musée d'Orsay]], Paris </gallery> Parisian department stores and fashion designers also played an important part in the rise of Art Deco. Prominent businesses such as silverware firm [[Christofle]], glass designer [[René Lalique]], and the jewellers [[Louis Cartier]] and [[Boucheron]] began designing products in more modern styles.<ref>{{cite web| url = https://books.google.com/books?id=yslUAAAAMAAJ&q=Art+Deco.+Louis+Vuitton,+Christofle,+Ren%C3%A9+Lalique,+Louis+Cartier,+Boucheron| title = ''Metropolitan Review, Volume 2'', Metropolitan Press Publications, 1989, p. 8| year = 1989}}</ref><ref name="Campbell">[https://books.google.com/books?id=i3Od9bcGus0C&q=%22Andr%C3%A9+Vera%22&pg=PA42 Campbell, Gordon, ''The Grove Encyclopedia of Decorative Arts'', Oxford University Press, USA, 9 Nov 2006] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221206151135/https://books.google.fr/books?id=i3Od9bcGus0C&lpg=PA42&dq=%22The%20Grove%20Encyclopedia%20of%20Decorative%20Arts%22%20%22Andr%C3%A9%20Vera%22%20gordon%20campbell&pg=PA42#v=onepage&q=%22Andr%C3%A9%20Vera%22&f=false |date=6 December 2022 }}, pp. 42 (Vera), 43 (Cartier), 243 (Christofle), 15, 515, 527 (Lalique), 13, 134 (Boucheron), {{ISBN|0195189485}}</ref> Beginning in 1900, department stores recruited decorative artists to work in their design studios. The decoration of the 1912 ''Salon d'Automne'' was entrusted to the department store ''[[Printemps]]'',<ref name="Salon d'Automne 2012">{{Cite web |url=http://www.salon-automne.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/catalogue-SA-2012.pdf |title=Salon d'Automne 2012, exhibition catalogue |access-date=10 October 2016 |archive-date=1 February 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180201192912/http://www.salon-automne.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/catalogue-SA-2012.pdf |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name="Campbell2">[https://books.google.com/books?id=i3Od9bcGus0C&q=Printemps&pg=PA43 Campbell, Gordon, ''The Grove Encyclopedia of Decorative Arts'', Oxford University Press, USA, 9 Nov 2006] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221206151122/https://books.google.fr/books?id=i3Od9bcGus0C&lpg=PA42&dq=%22The%20Grove%20Encyclopedia%20of%20Decorative%20Arts%22%20%22Andr%C3%A9%20Vera%22%20gordon%20campbell&pg=PA43#v=onepage&q=Printemps&f=false |date=6 December 2022 }}, pp. 42-43 {{ISBN|0195189485}}</ref> and that year it created its own workshop, ''Primavera''.<ref name="Campbell2" /> By 1920 ''Primavera'' employed more than 300 artists, whose styles ranged from updated versions of [[Louis XIV style|Louis XIV]], [[Louis XVI style|Louis XVI]], and especially [[Louis Philippe style|Louis Philippe]] furniture made by [[Louis Süe]] and the ''Primavera'' workshop, to more modern forms from the workshop of the ''Au Louvre'' department store. Other designers, including [[Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann]] and Paul Follot, refused to use mass production, insisting that each piece be made individually. The early Art Deco style featured luxurious and exotic materials such as [[ebony]], [[ivory]] and silk, very bright colours and stylized [[Motif (visual arts)|motifs]], particularly baskets and bouquets of flowers of all colours, giving a modernist look.<ref name="benton165">Laurent, Stephane, "L'artiste décorateur", in ''Art Deco, 1910–1939'' by Charlotte Benton, Tim Benton and Ghislain Wood (2002), Renaissance du Livre, pages 165–171</ref>
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