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==== <span class="anchor" id="Susohiki/Hikizuri"></span><span class="anchor" id="Hikizuri"></span><span class="anchor" id="Susohiki"></span> {{Transliteration|ja|Susohiki/Hikizuri}} ==== [[File:Susohiki.jpg|thumb|left|A geisha's formal {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} kimono, displaying a {{transliteration|ja|kurotomesode}}-type pattern on the kimono's elongated skirt]] {{transliteration|ja|Susohiki}} ({{lit|trailing skirt}}) (also known as {{transliteration|ja|hikizuri}}) are women's kimono with a specialised construction that allows them to be worn trailing, with a deep-set and widely-spaced collar. {{transliteration|ja|Susohiki}} are extremely long kimono worn by geisha, {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, actors in [[kabuki]] and people performing [[Buyō|traditional Japanese dance]]. A {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} can be up to {{cvt|230|cm}} long, and are generally no shorter than {{cvt|200|cm}} from shoulder to hem; this is to allow the kimono to trail along the floor. {{transliteration|ja|Susohiki}} are sewn differently to normal kimono due to the way they are worn.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Coline |first1=Youandi |title=Are kimono and hikizuri the same? |url=https://chayatsujikimono.wordpress.com/2018/06/01/are-kimono-and-hikizuri-the-same/ |website=Chayatsuji Kimono |date=June 2018 |access-date=14 May 2019}}</ref> The collar on a {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} is sewn further and deeper back into the nape of the neck, so that it can be pulled down much lower without causing the front of the kimono to ride up. The sleeves are set unevenly onto the body, shorter at the back than at the front, so that the underarm does not show when the collar is pulled down. {{transliteration|ja|Susohiki}} are also tied differently when they are put on – whereas regular kimono are tied with a visible {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}}, and the side seams are kept straight, {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} are pulled up somewhat diagonally, to emphasise the hips and ensure the kimono trails nicely on the floor. A small {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} is tied, larger at the back than the front, but it wrapped against the body with a {{transliteration|ja|momi}} ({{lit|red silk}}) wrap, which is then covered by the {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, rendering the {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} invisible.{{efn|Video reference showing Atami geisha Kyouma being dressed in {{transliteration|ja|hikizuri}} – the second video shows the difference between {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} length at the front and back, showing how it is tied into the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} so as to be not visible.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BrPk7R-Apeh/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/s/instagram/BrPk7R-Apeh |archive-date=26 December 2021 |url-access=registration|title=[Video from Atami Geigi Kenban on Instagram] |date=11 December 2018 |access-date=14 May 2019 |language=ja}}{{cbignore}}</ref>}} Aside from their specialised construction, {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} can resemble many other types of women's kimono in their decoration, fabric type, colour and sleeve length. The {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} worn by geisha and their apprentices are formal kimono worn to engagements, and so are always made of fine silk, resembling kimono of {{transliteration|ja|hōmongi}} formality and above in their pattern placement and background colour. The {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} worn by kabuki actors varies by role, and so can appear as the humble clothing of an Edo-period merchant's daughter, as well as the fine silk clothing of a samurai woman. These costumes may be made of polyester, as well as silk, informal silk fabrics, cotton, linen or hemp. Pattern placement, colour and design varies by role, with many roles having costume designs preserved from previous centuries. The {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} worn by people performing traditional Japanese dance typically feature a bold design in block colours, as their clothing must stand out from the stage. Performers performing in a group wear kimono identical to one another, with the bold designs creating visual unity between performers.
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