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==Fashion== {{Main|Punk fashion}} [[File:punk-27947.jpg|thumb|Two British punks in the early 1980s]] [[File:Punk fashion circa 1986.jpg|thumb|Punk fashion in 1986]] Early punk fashion adapted everyday objects for aesthetic effect: ripped clothing was held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape; ordinary clothing was customised by embellishing it with marker or adorning it with paint; a black [[bin liner]] became a dress, shirt or skirt; safety pins and razor blades were used as jewellery. Also popular have been leather, rubber, and [[Polyvinyl chloride|PVC]] clothing that is often associated with transgressive [[Human sexual activity|sexuality]], like [[Bondage (BDSM)|BDSM]] and [[Sadism and masochism|S&M]].<ref>Walker, John. (1992) [http://www.artdesigncafe.com/punk-1992 "Punk"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120202063407/http://www.artdesigncafe.com/punk-1992 |date=2 February 2012 }}. ''Glossary of Art, Architecture & Design since 1945'', 3rd. ed.</ref> A designer associated with early UK punk fashion was [[Vivienne Westwood]], who made clothes for [[Malcolm McLaren]]'s boutique in the [[King's Road]], which became famous as "[[Sex (boutique)|SEX]]". Many punks wear tight "drainpipe" jeans, plaid/tartan trousers, kilts or skirts, T-shirts, leather jackets (often decorated with painted band logos, pins and buttons, and metal studs, chains or spikes), and footwear such as high-cut [[Chuck Taylor All-Stars|Chuck Taylors]], [[trainers]], [[skate shoes]], [[brothel creeper]]s, [[Dr. Martens]] boots, and [[army boots]]. Early punks occasionally wore clothes displaying a [[swastika]] for shock value; Vivienne Westwood's ''DESTROY'' shirt featured an upside-down crucified Jesus and a swastika, notably worn by members of the Sex Pistols.<ref>{{Cite web |first=Scottie |last=Andrew |title=How Vivienne Westwood dressed the Sex Pistols and shaped punk |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-punk-fashion-sex-pistols-cec/index.html |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=CNN |date=30 December 2022 |language=en |archive-date=14 January 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230114012315/http://www.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-punk-fashion-sex-pistols-cec/index.html |url-status=live }}</ref> Most contemporary punks are staunchly anti-racist and are more likely to wear a crossed-out swastika symbol than a pro-Nazi symbol. Some punks cut their hair into [[Mohawk hairstyle|mohawks]] or other dramatic shapes, style it to stand in spikes, and colour it with vibrant, unnatural hues. Some punks are ''anti-fashion'', arguing that punk should be defined by music or ideology. Punk clothing choices challenge the way in which individuals in a nation dress, and the ideals of a traditionalist nation.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Sklar |first=Monica |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=1bfwAAAAQBAJ&dq=punk+style&pg=PR7 |title=Punk Style |date=2013-11-21 |publisher=A&C Black |isbn=978-1-4725-5733-9 |language=en}}</ref> This is most common in the post-1980s US [[hardcore punk]] scene, where members of the subculture often dressed in plain T-shirts and jeans, rather than the more elaborate outfits and spiked, dyed hair of their British counterparts. Many groups adopt a look based on street clothes and working-class outfits. Hardcore punk fans adopted a ''dressed-down'' style of T-shirts, jeans, combat boots or trainers, and [[crewcut]]s. Women in the hardcore scene typically wore army trousers, band T-shirts, and hooded jumpers.<ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 12"/> The style of the 1980s hardcore scene contrasted with the more provocative fashion styles of late 1970s punk rockers (elaborate [[punk hair|hairdos]], torn clothes, patches, safety pins, studs, spikes, etc.). [[Circle Jerks]] frontman [[Keith Morris]] described early hardcore fashion as "the...punk scene was basically based on English fashion. But we had nothing to do with that. [[Black Flag (band)|Black Flag]] and the Circle Jerks were so far from that. We looked like the kid who worked at the [[filling station|gas station]] or [[submarine sandwich|submarine]] shop."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.citizinemag.com/music/music-0303_kmorris.htm |title=CITIZINE Interview β Circle Jerks' Keith Morris (Black Flag, Diabetes) |website=Citizinemag.com |date=17 February 2003 |access-date=4 December 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111006082011/http://www.citizinemag.com/music/music-0303_kmorris.htm |archive-date=6 October 2011 }}</ref> Henry Rollins echoes Morris' point, stating that for him getting dressed up meant putting on a black shirt and some dark pants; Rollins viewed an interest in fashion as being a distraction.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://m.complex.com/style/2013/04/29-things-you-didnt-know-about-punk-style/hardcore-punk |title=Hardcore punk of the '80s preferred simple, utilitarian style because it was better for moshing. β 29 Things You Didn't Know About Punk Style {{pipe}} Complex |website=M.complex.com |access-date=20 May 2014 |archive-date=3 November 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131103052848/http://m.complex.com/style/2013/04/29-things-you-didnt-know-about-punk-style/hardcore-punk |url-status=live }}</ref> Jimmy Gestapo from [[Murphy's Law (band)|Murphy's Law]] describes his own transition from dressing in a punk style (spiked hair and a [[bondage belt]]) to adopting a hardcore style (i.e. boots and a shaved head) as being based on a need for more functional clothing.<ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 12"/> A punk scholar states that "hardcore kids do not look like punks", since hardcore scene members wore basic clothing and short haircuts, in contrast to the "embellished leather jackets and pants" worn in the punk scene.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/26264/BrockmeierxDUO.pdf?sequence=1 |title=Not Just Boys' Fun? |website=Duo.uio.no |page=12 |access-date=20 May 2014 |archive-date=2 November 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131102213941/https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/26264/BrockmeierxDUO.pdf?sequence=1 |url-status=live }}</ref> In contrast to Morris' and Rollins' views, another punk scholar claims that the standard hardcore punk clothing and styles included torn jeans, leather jackets, spiked armbands and dog collars, mohawk hairstyles, and DIY ornamentation of clothes with studs, painted band names, political statements, and patches.<ref>Lauraine Leblanc. ''Pretty in Punk: Girls' Gender Resistance in a Boys' Subculture''. Rutgers University Press, 1999. p. 52</ref> Yet another punk scholar describes the look that was common in the San Francisco hardcore scene as consisting of biker-style leather jackets, chains, studded wristbands, pierced noses and multiple piercings, painted or tattooed statements (e.g. an anarchy symbol), and hairstyles ranging from military-style haircuts dyed black or blonde to mohawks and shaved heads.<ref>Skinheads: A Guide to an American Subculture. By Tiffini A. Travis, Perry Hardy. ABC-CLIO, 2012. p. 123 (section entitled "From San Francisco Hardcore Punks to Skinheads")</ref> The [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] in 2013 hosted a comprehensive exhibit, ''PUNK: Chaos to Couture'', that examined the techniques of hardware, distress, and re-purposing in punk fashion.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.msfabulous.com/2013/05/punk-chaos-to-couture.html |title=Punk: Chaos to Couture fashion design, indie clothing, style, beauty |publisher=Ms. Fabulous |date=7 May 2013 |access-date=20 May 2014 |archive-date=27 June 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140627123356/http://www.msfabulous.com/2013/05/punk-chaos-to-couture.html |url-status=live }}</ref>
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