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===''Paella valenciana''=== Originally, paella made in Valencia was a lunchtime meal for farmers and farm laborers. Workers would gather what was available to them around the rice fields. This often included tomatoes, onions, and snails. Rabbit or duck was a common addition, or chicken less often.<ref name="tpc">{{cite web |title=History and Origins of Paella |url=https://www.thepaellacompany.co.uk/history.html |website=The Paella Company |access-date=16 March 2020}}</ref> On special occasions, 18th-century Valencians used ''calderos'' to cook the rice in the open air of their orchards near lake [[Albufera]]. [[Arvicola sapidus|Water vole]] meat was one of the main ingredients of early paellas,<ref>Manuel Vázquez Montalbán, ''La cocina de los mediterráneos'', Ediciones B – Mexico</ref> along with [[Eel as food|eel]] and [[White beans|butter beans]]. Novelist [[Vicente Blasco Ibáñez]] described the Valencia custom of eating [[European water vole|water voles]] in ''Cañas y Barro'' (1902), a realistic novel about life among the fishermen and peasants near lake Albufera.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.ucm.es/info/especulo/numero31/viblasco.html |title=César Besó Portalés, ''Vicente Blasco Ibáñez y el Naturalismo'', I.E.S. Clara Campoamor, Alaquás (Valencia) |publisher=Ucm.es |access-date=19 February 2010}}</ref> Living standards rose with the sociological changes of the late 19th century in Spain, giving rise to gatherings and outings in the countryside. This led to a change in paella's ingredients, as well, using instead rabbit, chicken, duck, and sometimes snails. The dish became so popular that in 1840, a local Spanish newspaper first used the word ''paella'' to refer to the recipe rather than the pan, according to food historian [[Lynne Olver]].<ref name="foodtimeline.org" /> The most widely used, complete ingredient list of this era was: short-grain white rice, chicken, rabbit, snails (optional), duck (optional), [[White beans|butter beans]], [[great northern bean]]s, [[runner beans]], [[artichoke]] (a substitute for runner beans in the winter), [[tomato]]es, fresh rosemary, sweet [[paprika]], [[saffron]], [[garlic]] (optional), salt, olive oil, and water.<ref name="foodtimeline.org" /> Poorer Valencians sometimes used only snails for meat.<ref name="tpc"/> Many Valencians insist that no more than these ingredients should go into making modern ''paella valenciana'', and, in particular, that fish and shellfish are "absolutely out of the question."<ref name="tg 2011-08-18">{{cite news |last1=Cloake |first1=Felicity |title=How to cook the perfect paella |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/aug/18/how-to-cook-perfect-paella |access-date=23 March 2022 |work=[[The Guardian]] |date=18 August 2011}}</ref><ref name="tg 2022-03-22">{{cite news |last1=Burgen |first1=Stephen |title=Researchers in Valencia pinpoint unwritten rules of paella |url=https://www.theguardian.com/food/2022/mar/22/researchers-in-valencia-pinpoint-unwritten-rules-of-paella |access-date=23 March 2022 |work=The Guardian |date=22 March 2022}}</ref> Another important rule, according to Valencians, is that fresh rosemary should not be added to ''paella valenciana'' made with rosemary-eating snails.<ref name="lat 1988-09-25">{{cite news |last1=Andrews |first1=Colman |author1-link=Colman Andrews |title=FOOD : A Spanish Disposition : Forget the Myth That Seafood Is a Must Ingredient in an Authentic Paella |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1988-09-25-tm-3535-story.html |access-date=23 March 2022 |work=[[Los Angeles Times]] |date=25 September 1988}}</ref>
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