Editing Karl Lagerfeld (section)

===International fame with Chanel (1982–2000)===
[[File:Chanel logo interlocking cs.svg|thumb|right|Lagerfeld is credited with making great use of Chanel's "CC" logo during the 1980s.<ref name="Brit">{{cite encyclopedia|url=https://www.britannica.com/biography/Karl-Lagerfeld|title=Karl Lagerfeld&nbsp;– German Fashion Designer and photographer|author=((The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica))|encyclopedia=Encyclopædia Britannica|date=3 May 2016|access-date=19 February 2019}}</ref>]]
In the 1980s, Lagerfeld was hired by Chanel, which was considered a "near-dead brand" at the time since the death of designer [[Coco Chanel]] a decade prior. Taking over the couture there in 1983, Lagerfeld brought life back into the company, making it a huge success<ref>{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=349 |chapter=1976-1986 |quote=...[E]ven though one of the jackets in the 1984 collection was priced at $75,000, the house could not make them fast enough.}}</ref> by revamping its [[ready-to-wear]] fashion line.<ref name="Vogue">{{cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/karl-lagerfeld|title=Karl Lagerfeld biography|publisher=British Vogue|access-date=19 February 2019|author=Helen Wigham|date=18 May 2011}}</ref><ref name="Biog"/> Lagerfeld integrated the interlocked ''CC'' monogram of [[Coco Chanel]] into a style pattern for the [[House of Chanel]].<ref name="Brit" /><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm |title=Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (1883–1971) and the House of Chanel |publisher=The Met |date=October 2004 |author=Jessa Krick}}</ref>

Lagerfeld also changed the Chanel silhouette<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The sleeves have been shortened, and the jacket now barely conceals the waistline.}}</ref> that had prevailed since the early 1960s, making it more eighties by padding the shoulder,<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The...shoulders have been pushed out and padded.}}</ref> shortening and tightening the skirt,<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The skirt has been narrowed and the hem hiked up to an above-the-knee level.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Givenchy and Chanel Excite Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=19 October 1982 |page=C8 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/19/style/givenchy-and-chanel-excite-paris.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The Chanel...skirts have been shortened...Now they clear the knees....[T]he skirts are not only short but tight, causing the models to mince and wriggle rather than stride down the runway.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Valentino Shines in Paris Amid Strong French Shows |journal=The New York Times |date=22 March 1983 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/22/style/valentino-shines-in-paris-amid-strong-french-shows.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=Hemlines barely cleared the knee, instead of descending two inches below as the late Gabrielle Chanel preferred and skirts were considerably skimpier.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Ungaro's Bright Palette Lights Up Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=29 January 1986 |page=C1 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1986/01/29/garden/ungaro-s-bright-palette-lights-up-couture.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=His chief method at the moment is to pull everything as close to the body as is feasible, including the revered suits. Many dresses are so snug it would seem impossible for the mannequins to walk.}}</ref> raising the heel,<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...slingback pumps revamped with a pointier toe and higher, curvier heel...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Givenchy and Chanel Excite Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=19 October 1982 |page=C8 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/19/style/givenchy-and-chanel-excite-paris.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he black-toe pumps have greatly elevated heels...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Valentino Shines in Paris Amid Strong French Shows |journal=The New York Times |date=22 March 1983 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/22/style/valentino-shines-in-paris-amid-strong-french-shows.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The famous two-toned pumps were there..., though with higher, spindlier heels...}}</ref> and enlarging or miniaturizing the jewelry and purses,<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he quilted handbags stretched to new proportions. And the famous faux gold chains and pearls are poured on with a profusion that even Mlle. Chanel, a prodigious piler-oner of jewels herself, would never have suggested.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Givenchy and Chanel Excite Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=19 October 1982 |page=C8 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/19/style/givenchy-and-chanel-excite-paris.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The famous quilted Chanel handbag has been enlarged to portfolio size...[N]ever have [Chanel's chains and pearls] been so massive. Rows of gold chains not only hang around the neck, but around the hips and wrists as well.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Valentino Shines in Paris Amid Strong French Shows |journal=The New York Times |date=22 March 1983 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/22/style/valentino-shines-in-paris-amid-strong-french-shows.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he quilted leather handbags...were almost suitcase size.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Ungaro's Bright Palette Lights Up Couture |journal=The New York Times |date=29 January 1986 |page=C1 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1986/01/29/garden/ungaro-s-bright-palette-lights-up-couture.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he miniaturized quilted Chanel handbags...look hardly big enough to hold a subway token.}}</ref> all controversial moves,<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he reaction of the professional buyers and press was decidedly mixed....Bernadine Morris...said the 'Chanel look has been vulgarized'...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Givenchy and Chanel Excite Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=19 October 1982 |page=C8 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/19/style/givenchy-and-chanel-excite-paris.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he look sometimes appears to be a parody of itself...Quiet, unassuming clothes have been transformed into fairly arrogant styles. The Chanel look has been vulgarized...}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=349 |chapter=1976-1986 |quote=Many were very critical of...Lagerfeld's brash, showy reinterpretation of Chanel, the most obvious examples being the use of prominent shoulder pads and heavy gilt jewellery – a parody of Chanel's earlier, understated style.}}</ref> especially the short skirts,<ref>{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |page=398 |chapter=1986 |quote=...Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel almost parodied status dressing,...[showing] miniskirts hung with chains and quilted like the handbags.}}</ref> as Mlle. Chanel had always disapproved of above-the-knee skirts.<ref>{{cite magazine |title=Fashion: Stopping the Escalation |magazine=Time |date=5 August 1966 |volume=88 |issue=6 |url=https://content.time.com/time/subscriber/article/0,33009,836160,00.html |access-date=12 June 2022 |quote=The miniskirt? 'Dégoütant' [disgusting], snapped Coco Chanel....And so Chanel stayed Chanel, with neatly fitted suits just covering the kneecap.}}</ref> This new direction was actually initiated the year before Lagerfeld took the helm, 1982, when a design team led by [[Hervé Léger]], a Lagerfeld protegé, operated at the house. Lagerfeld is suspected of having influenced Léger's changes.<ref>{{cite journal |title=Reshaping the Classics at the House of Chanel |journal=The New York Times |date=12 December 1982 |page=116 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/12/magazine/fashion-reshaping-the-classics-at-the-house-of-chanel.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=The reworking of the revered suit – not to mention the whole collection, which included some pretty suggestive evening gowns – was the work of three former young assistants to Karl Lagerfeld, the Paris-based internationally renowned designer. The chief contributor was 25-year-old Herve Leger...[R]umors persist that [Lagerfeld] was the eminence grise behind it.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Givenchy and Chanel Excite Paris |journal=The New York Times |date=19 October 1982 |page=C8 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/19/style/givenchy-and-chanel-excite-paris.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[I]t has been rumored that [Lagerfeld] had something to do with the ready-to-wear presented this morning as part of the spring and summer showings here. Two former assistants, Herve Leger and Eva Compocassi, are actually credited with the clothes.}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1=Morris |first1=Bernadine |title=Valentino Shines in Paris Amid Strong French Shows |journal=The New York Times |date=22 March 1983 |page=C12 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/03/22/style/valentino-shines-in-paris-amid-strong-french-shows.html |access-date=4 April 2022 |quote=...[T]he House of Chanel...is in the hands of two young designers, Herve Leger and Marianne Oudin...Both are proteges of Karl Lagerfeld...}}</ref>

In 1984, a year after his start at Chanel, Lagerfeld began his own eponymous "Karl Lagerfeld" brand with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing.<ref name=VogueBiz19>{{Cite news| last = Banks| first = Libby| title = The Life And Times Of Karl Lagerfeld |work=Vogue Business| access-date = 18 March 2024| date = 19 February 2019| url = https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/the-life-and-times-of-karl-lagerfeld}}</ref> The brand was established to channel "intellectual sexiness".<ref name="Vogue" />  Lagerfeld had signed an agreement with Bidermann Industries USA, giving them ownership and licensing rights to fashion labels he produced.<ref name=NYT83>{{cite news |last1=|first1= |title=Bidermann Pact |work=New York Times |date=2 December 1983 |access-date=18 March 2024 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/12/02/business/bidermann-pact.html}}</ref> Lagerfeld ended the agreement with Bidermann in 1989.<ref name="WWD19">{{Cite news| last = Socha| first = Miles| title = Karl Lagerfeld Dies in Paris| work = Women's Wear Daily| access-date = 18 March 2024| date = 19 February 2019| url = https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/karl-lagerfeld-dies-in-paris-1203034873/}}</ref> That same year, Lagerfeld launched two Karl Lagerfeld brand menswear lines.<ref>{{Cite news| last = Stangenes| first = Sharon| title = Following Suits | work =Chicago Tribune|date = 22 February 1989| access-date = 18 March 2024| url = https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1989-02-22-8903070514-story.html}}</ref> The Lagerfeld label was then purchased by the [[Revillon Frères|Cora Revillon Group]],<ref name=NYT1992>{{cite news |last=Morris |first=Bernadine |title=In Paris, Lagerfeld Stole the Spotlight |work=The New York Times |date=31 March 1992 |via=Nexis |quote=By the next showing season, Mr. Lagerfeld said he would probably be presenting a third line in Paris. The company that bears his name, owned by Cora-Revillon, is expected to be bought soon by Dunhill Holdings, which owns Chloe. Only the details have to be worked out.}}</ref> which had previously reached an agreement to manufacture and market Karl Lagerfeld-branded products.<ref name=Sones1987>{{cite news |last=Sones |first=Melissa |title=Keeping up with Karl |work=United Press International |date=8 December 1987 |via=Nexis |quote=In addition to producing furs, Revillon will manufacture and market all products with the Karl Lagerfeld label except fragrance.}}</ref>

In 1992, Dunhill Holdings—part of the [[Richemont|Vendôme Luxury Group]]—acquired the Karl Lagerfeld brand from Cora-Revillon for an estimated $30&nbsp;million.<ref name=Redburn>{{cite news |last1=Redburn |first1=Tom |title=Dunhill Steps Out in Style With Lagerfeld |date=2 June 1992 |access-date=15 March 2024 |work=International Herald Tribune |via=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1992/06/02/business/worldbusiness/IHT-dunhill-steps-out-in-style-with-lagerfeld.html}}</ref><ref name="WWD19"/> The acquisition was part of the agreement the company made with Lagerfeld for him to return to designing for the fashion house [[Chloé]].<ref name=WWD19/> Vendôme retained ownership of the brand for five years, until 1997, when it sold the brand back to Lagerfeld for a "symbolic one franc", following the end of his contract with Chloé.<ref name=Fallon>{{Cite news| last = Fallon| first = James| title = Vendome Sale of Lagerfeld is Confirmed| work = Women's Wear Daily| access-date = 18 March 2024| date = 25 June 1997| url = https://wwd.com/feature/article-1114400-1784217/}}</ref> Lagerfeld stated that Vendôme "had not hired the right people to manage it."<ref name=Fallon/>

Lagerfeld flourished in the plethora of historical revivals of the eighties, from the shoulder-padded 1940s–50s revivals beginning in 1978 and continuing through the eighties, to the 1950s pouf skirts, 1860s crinolines, and hoops of the mid-eighties, now often showgirl-short.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Mulvagh |first1=Jane |title=Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion |date=1988 |publisher=Viking, the Penguin Group |location=London, England |isbn=0-670-80172-0 |pages=396–397 |chapter=1986 |quote=Chanel's tutu: black silk organza pleats over frilly tulle petticoats.}}</ref> Lagerfeld participated in it all, for both his namesake line and Chanel. In 1986, he marked the move away from broad shoulders by removing pads from the shoulders and placing them visibly on the outside of the hips.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Cunningham |first1=Bill |title=Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction |journal=Details |date=1 March 1986 |volume=IV |issue=8 |page=116 |location=New York, NY |issn=0740-4921 |quote=...[A]t Karl Lagerfeld, shoulder pads were removed from the shoulders and moved down to the hips...}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |editor1-last=Finley |editor1-first=Ruth |editor-link=Ruth Finley |title=Spring/Summer Paris Collection Highlights |journal=Fashion International |date=1 December 1985 |volume=XIV |issue=3 |page=2 |location=New York, NY, USA |quote=By moving shoulder pads to the top of the hip, Lagerfeld suggests the first major structural change in fashion for quite some time...}}</ref>