Editing Camouflage (section)

=== Fashion, art and society ===

[[File:Dazzle camouflage costume ball.PNG|thumb|The "dazzle ball" held by the Chelsea Arts Club, 1919|alt=1919 dazzle ball costumes]]

Military camouflage patterns influenced [[Fashion design|fashion]] and [[art]] from the time of the First World War onwards. [[Gertrude Stein]] recalled the [[cubism|cubist]] artist [[Pablo Picasso]]'s reaction in around 1915:

{{Blockquote|I very well remember at the beginning of the war being with Picasso on the boulevard Raspail when the first camouflaged truck passed. It was at night, we had heard of camouflage but we had not seen it and Picasso amazed looked at it and then cried out, yes it is we who made it, that is cubism.|Gertrude Stein in ''From Picasso'' (1938)<ref>{{cite web |author=[[Gertrude Stein|Stein, Gertrude]] |translator=[[Alice B. Toklas|Toklas, Alice B.]] |title=Picasso |publisher=Scribners |year=1939 |url=http://faculty.dwc.edu/wellman/Stein-Picasso.html |access-date=31 January 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140201234007/http://faculty.dwc.edu/wellman/Stein-Picasso.html |archive-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead}}</ref>}}

In 1919, the attendants of a "dazzle ball", hosted by the Chelsea Arts Club, wore dazzle-patterned black and white clothing. The ball influenced fashion and art via postcards and magazine articles.{{sfn|Forbes|2009|page=100}} The ''[[Illustrated London News]]'' announced:{{sfn|Forbes|2009|page=100}}<ref>{{cite news |work=Illustrated London News |title=The Great Dazzle Ball at the Albert Hall: The Shower of Bomb Balloons and Some Typical Costumes |date=22 March 1919 |issue=154 |pages=414–415}}</ref>

{{Blockquote|The scheme of decoration for the great fancy dress ball given by the Chelsea Arts Club at the Albert Hall, the other day, was based on the principles of "Dazzle", the method of "camouflage" used during the war in the painting of ships&nbsp;... The total effect was brilliant and fantastic.}}

More recently, fashion designers have often used camouflage fabric for its striking designs, its "patterned disorder" and its symbolism.<ref name="Galliano at Museum">{{cite web |url=http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/loveandwar/galliano.htm |title=Love and War: The Weaponized Woman |publisher=The Museum at FIT |work=John Galliano for Christian Dior, silk camouflage evening dress |date=9 September – 16 December 2006 |access-date=1 December 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://archive.today/20121212085814/http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/loveandwar/galliano.htm |archive-date=12 December 2012}}</ref> Camouflage clothing can be worn largely for its symbolic significance rather than for fashion, as when, during the late 1960s and early 1970s in the United States, [[opposition to the Vietnam War|anti-war protestors]] often ironically wore military clothing during demonstrations against the American involvement in the Vietnam War.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.warmuseum.ca/media/news/the-story-of-camouflage-told-at-the-canadian-war-museum-this-summer/ |title=Camouflage: The Exhibition |publisher=Canadian War Museum |date=5 June 2009 |access-date=14 November 2015}}</ref>

Modern artists such as [[Ian Hamilton Finlay]] have used camouflage to reflect on war. His 1973 screenprint of a tank camouflaged in a leaf pattern, ''Arcadia'',{{efn|See [[Ian Hamilton Finlay#Art]].}} is described by the [[Tate gallery|Tate]] as drawing "an ironic parallel between this idea of a natural paradise and the camouflage patterns on a tank".<ref name="IanHF-Tate">{{cite web |url=http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/hamilton-finlay-arcadia-collaboration-with-george-oliver-p07025 |title=Ian Hamilton Finlay: Arcadia (collaboration with George Oliver) |publisher=Tate |work=Arcadia, 1973 |date=July 2008 |access-date=11 May 2012}}</ref> The title refers to the [[Utopia]]n [[Arcadia (utopia)|Arcadia]] of poetry and art, and the ''[[memento mori]]'' [[Latin phrase]] ''Et in Arcadia ego'' which recurs in Hamilton Finlay's work. In [[science fiction]], ''[[Camouflage (novel)|Camouflage]]'' is a novel about [[shapeshifting]] alien beings by [[Joe Haldeman]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Haldeman |first=Joe |title=Camouflage |publisher=Ace Books |year=2004 |isbn=978-0-441-01161-2 |url=https://archive.org/details/camouflage00hald }}</ref> The word is used more figuratively in works of literature such as Thaisa Frank's collection of stories of love and loss, ''A Brief History of Camouflage''.<ref>{{cite book |last=Frank |first=Thaisa |title=A Brief History of Camouflage |publisher=Black Sparrow Press |year=1992 |isbn=978-0-87685-857-8 |url=https://archive.org/details/briefhistoryofca00fran }}</ref>

In 1986, [[Andy Warhol]] began a series of monumental camouflage paintings, which helped to transform camouflage into a popular print pattern. A year later, in 1987, New York designer [[Stephen Sprouse]] used Warhol's camouflage prints as the basis for his Autumn Winter 1987 collection.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Stephen Sprouse {{!}} Suit {{!}} American |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83908 |access-date=2024-07-13 |website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art |language=en}}</ref>{{clear}}

<gallery class="center" mode="nolines" heights="150px" widths="150px">
File:André_Mare_1885-1932_Camouflaged_280_Gun_sketch_in_ink_and_watercolour.jpg|[[André Mare]]'s [[Cubism|Cubist]] [[sketch (drawing)|sketch]], {{circa|1917}}, of a 280 calibre gun illustrates the interplay of art and war, as artists like Mare contributed their skills as wartime ''[[camoufleurs]]''.
File:Vietnam War protest in Washington DC April 1971.jpg|Camouflage clothing in an [[opposition to the Vietnam War|anti-war protest]], 1971
File:Aline Campos 1c.jpg|A camouflage skirt as a [[fashion]] item, 2007
</gallery>