Editing Art Deco (section)

==Jewelry==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="200px">
File:Cigarette Case MET DP291206.jpg|Cigarette case of leather and gold leaf by [[Pierre Legrain]] (1922), presenting a polychrome geometric decoration, [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]], New York City
File:Art Deco bracelet (1925) Museum of Decorative Arts.jpg|Bracelet of gold, coral and jade (1925), [[Musée des Arts décoratifs, Paris|Museum of Decorative Arts]], Paris
File:Art Deco buckle (1925).jpg|Gold buckle set with diamonds and carved onyx, lapis lazuli, jade, and coral, by [[Boucheron]] (1925)
File:Art Deco glass pendants Rene Lalique.jpg|Molded glass pendants on silk cords by [[René Lalique]] (1925–1930)
File:Cartier 3526707735 f4583fda9a.jpg|''Mackay Emerald Necklace'', emerald, diamond and platinum, by [[Cartier (jeweler)|Cartier]] (1930), [[Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History]], Washington, D.C.
</gallery>

In the 1920s and 1930s, designers including [[René Lalique]] and Cartier tried to reduce the traditional dominance of [[diamonds]] by introducing more colourful gemstones, such as small emeralds, rubies and sapphires. They also placed greater emphasis on very elaborate and elegant settings, featuring less-expensive materials such as enamel, glass, horn and ivory. Diamonds themselves were cut in less traditional forms; the 1925 Exposition saw many diamonds cut in the form of tiny rods or matchsticks. Other popular Art Deco cuts include:

* emerald cut, with long step-cut facets;
* asscher cut, more square-shaped than emerald with a high crown and the first diamond cut to ever be patented;
* marquise cut, to give the illusion of being bigger and bolder;
* baguette cut: small, rectangular step-cut shapes often used to outline bolder stones;<ref>{{Cite web |title=Art Deco-era rings: how to buy and what to look for |url=https://www.antiqueringboutique.com/pages/art-deco |access-date=2023-08-22 |website=Antique Ring Boutique |language=en}}</ref>
* old European cut, round in shape and cut by hand so sparks of color (called fire) flash from within the stone.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-04-15 |title=The Journal of Antiques and Collectibles {{!}} The Social Platform for Antiquers, Collectors, and Enthusiasts |url=https://journalofantiques.com/features/rene-lalique-master-jeweler-turned-glassmaker/ |access-date=2024-04-14 |language=en-US}}</ref>

The settings for diamonds also changed; More and more often jewellers used [[platinum]] instead of gold, since it was strong and flexible, and could set clusters of stones. Jewellers also began to use more dark materials, such as enamels and black [[onyx]], which provided a higher contrast with diamonds.{{Sfn|Arwas|1992|pages=121–123}}

Jewellery became much more colourful and varied in style. Cartier and the firm of Boucheron combined diamonds with colourful other gemstones cut into the form of leaves, fruit or flowers, to make brooches, rings, earrings, clips and pendants. Far Eastern themes also became popular; plaques of jade and coral were combined with platinum and diamonds, and vanity cases, cigarette cases and powder boxes were decorated with Japanese and Chinese landscapes made with mother of pearl, enamel and lacquer.{{Sfn|Arwas|1992|pages=121–123}}

Rapidly changing fashions in clothing brought new styles of jewellery. Sleeveless dresses of the 1920s meant that arms needed decoration, and designers quickly created bracelets of gold, silver and platinum encrusted with lapis-lazuli, onyx, coral, and other colourful stones; Other bracelets were intended for the upper arms, and several bracelets were often worn at the same time. The short haircuts of women in the twenties called for elaborate deco earring designs. As women began to smoke in public, designers created very ornate cigarette cases and ivory cigarette holders. The invention of the wristwatch before World War I inspired jewelers to create extraordinary, decorated watches, encrusted with diamonds and plated with enamel, gold and silver. Pendant watches, hanging from a ribbon, also became fashionable.{{sfn|Arwas|1992|pages=125}}

The established jewellery houses of Paris in the period, Cartier, [[Chaumet]], Georges Fouquet, [[Mauboussin]], and [[Van Cleef & Arpels]] all created jewellery and objects in the new fashion. The firm of Chaumet made highly geometric cigarette boxes, cigarette lighters, pillboxes and notebooks, made of hard stones decorated with [[jade]], [[lapis lazuli]], diamonds and sapphires. They were joined by many young new designers, each with his own idea of deco. [[Raymond Templier]] designed pieces with highly intricate geometric patterns, including silver earrings that looked like skyscrapers. Gerard Sandoz was only 18 when he started to design jewelry in 1921; he designed many celebrated pieces based on the smooth and polished look of modern machinery. The glass designer René Lalique also entered the field, creating pendants of fruit, flowers, frogs, fairies or mermaids made of sculpted glass in bright colors, hanging on cords of silk with tassels.{{sfn|Arwas|1992|pages=125}} The jeweller [[Paul Brandt]] contrasted rectangular and triangular patterns, and embedded pearls in lines on onyx plaques. [[Jean Despres]] made necklaces of contrasting colours by bringing together silver and black lacquer, or gold with lapis lazuli. Many of his designs looked like highly polished pieces of machines. [[Jean Dunand]] was also inspired by modern machinery, combined with bright reds and blacks contrasting with polished metal.{{sfn|Arwas|1992|pages=125}} [[Suzanne Belperron]] contributed sculptural designs using materials like rock crystal and semi-precious stones, exploring the period's emphasis on non-traditional elements. [[Jean Fouquet]], influenced by Cubism, worked with materials such as ebony and chrome-plated steel, bringing a distinctly modernist approach to Art Deco jewelry.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Art Deco Jewelry - Rediscovering The Joy Of Living After World War I |url=https://dsfantiquejewelry.com/blogs/journal/art-deco-jewelry-rediscovering-the-joy-of-living-after-world-war-i |access-date=2024-10-27 |website=DSF Antique Jewelry |language=en}}</ref> Other notable names in the Art Deco movement include [[Boucheron]], Lacloche, and Danish silversmith [[Georg Jensen]], known for his work with silver and less expensive gemstones. American jewelry houses such as [[Tiffany & Co.]], [[Black, Starr & Frost]], and [[Marcus & Co.]] also made significant contributions, producing pieces that included clocks and objets d'art, as well as jewelry.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Ebert |first=J. Mark |date=1983-04-01 |title=Art Deco: The Period, the Jewelry |journal=Gems & Gemology |volume=19 |issue=1 |pages=3–11 |doi=10.5741/GEMS.19.1.3 |s2cid=55653350 |issn=0016-626X}}</ref>