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==Fashion== <gallery mode="packed" heights="200px"> File:Evening coat MET 85.151 bw.jpeg|Evening coat by [[Paul Poiret]] ({{circa|1912}}), silk and metal, [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]], New York City File:Black satin evening gown trimmed with crystals (Robe du soir satin noir et tulle bordée de brillants) (CBL Wep 0837).jpg|Evening dress from the ''Journal des Dames et des Modes'', illustrated by [[George Barbier (illustrator)|George Barbier]] (1913), [[Chester Beatty Library]], Dublin File:Paquin3.jpg|Illustration by Barbier of a gown by [[Jeanne Paquin|Paquin]] (1914). Stylised floral designs and bright colours were a feature of early Art Deco. File:Cécile Sorel, in 1920, by Reutlinger.jpg|[[Cécile Sorel]] at the [[Comédie-Française]] (1920) File:Robe du soir, 1968.40.57.jpg|Evening dress by the [[Maison Agnès]] (1920–1930), silk, pearls, strass, cabochon, and other materials, [[Musée Galliera]], Paris File:Fashion picture by Adolf de Meyer 4.jpg|[[Desiree Lubovska]] in a dress by [[Jean Patou]] ({{circa|1921}}) File:Fond de robe du soir, 1968.40.87(2).jpg|Skirt by the Maison Agnès (1925–1927), silk, Musée Galliera File:Gabrielle Chanel en marinière.jpg|[[Coco Chanel]] in a sailor's blouse and trousers (1928) File:Louise Brooks in Diary of a Lost Girl.jpg|[[Louise Brooks]] with an ''à la garçonne'' hairstyle, in a publicity photo for ''Diary of Lost Girl'' (1929) File:Advertisement for pyjamas in Lisières Fleuries fabric, from Jardin des Modes, 1930.jpg|Advertisement for pyjamas in [[Lisières Fleuries]] fabric, from ''[[Le Jardin des Modes]]'' (1930) </gallery> Fashion changed dramatically during this period, thanks in particular to designers [[Paul Poiret]] and later [[Coco Chanel]]. Poiret introduced the concept of [[Drapery|draping]], a departure from the tailoring and patternmaking of the past.<ref name=met>{{cite web| url = http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2007/poiret| title = The Metropolitan Museum of Art – Special Exhibitions: Poiret: King of Fashion}}</ref> He designed clothing cut along straight lines and constructed of rectangular motifs.<ref name=met/> His styles offered structural simplicity<ref name=met/> The corseted look and formal styles of the previous period were abandoned, and fashion became more practical, and streamlined. With the use of new materials, brighter colours and printed designs.<ref name=met/> The designer [[Coco Chanel]] continued the transition, popularising the style of sporty, casual chic.<ref name=Horton-2007>{{cite book|first1=Ros|last1=Horton|first2= Sally|last2=Simmons|title=Women Who Changed the World| page=103|year=2007|isbn=978-1847240262|publisher=Quercus|access-date=8 March 2011 | url= https://books.google.com/books?id=7LYLOj2APSsC&pg=PA103}}</ref> A particular typology of the era was the [[Flapper]], a woman who cut her hair into a short bob, drank cocktails, smoked in public, and danced late into the night at fashionable clubs, [[cabaret]]s or bohemian dives. Of course, most women didn't live like this, the Flapper being more a character present in popular imagination than a reality. Another female Art Deco style was the androgynous ''garçonne'' of the 1920s, with flattened bosom, dispelled waist and revealed legs, reducing the silhouette to a short tube, topped with a head-hugging cloche hat.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Blackman|first1=Cally|title=100 Years of Fashion|date=2012|publisher=Laurence King|isbn=978-1-78627-682-7|page=12|url=|language=en}}</ref> [[[[File:Semaphore Brooch by Gerard Sandoz.jpg|thumb|Art Deco Brooch in Platinum, Onyx, Coral and Diamonds 1925]]|thumb|Semaphore Brooch by Gerard Sandoz, in Platinum, Coral, Onyx, Diamonds, 1925]]
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