Editing Ramen (section)

===Origin===
[[File:Rairaiken.jpg|thumb|''Rairaiken'' ({{lang|ja|来々軒}}), the first ramen shop, founded in 1910 by Kan'ichi Ozaki in [[Asakusa]], Tokyo. The signs advertise "Chinese [[soba]]" ({{lang|ja|支那蕎麥}}) and "[[Cantonese cuisine]]" ({{lang|ja|廣東料理}}).]]

Ramen is a Japanese adaptation of Chinese wheat [[noodle soup]]s.<ref name="ao2018">{{cite magazine|url=https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/how-did-ramen-become-popular|title=How Did Ramen Become Popular?|magazine=Atlas Obscura|year=2007}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Rupelle|first=Guy de la|title=Kayak and land journeys in Ainu Mosir: Among the Ainu of Hokkaido|year=2005|publisher=iUniverse|location=Lincoln, NE| isbn=978-0-595-34644-8| page=116| url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Fx5XqEK9OV8C&pg=PA116}}</ref><ref>{{cite book| last=Asakawa| first=Gil| title=Being Japanese American|year=2004|publisher=Stone Bridge Press|location=Berkeley, California| isbn=978-1-880656-85-3| page=[https://archive.org/details/beingjapaneseame0000asak/page/49 49]| url=https://archive.org/details/beingjapaneseame0000asak| url-access=registration}}</ref><ref name="nhkworld">NHK World. ''Japanology Plus: Ramen''. 2014. Accessed 2015-03-08.</ref><ref>{{cite book |script-title=ja:ラーメンの誕生 |trans-title=The birth of Ramen |first=Tetsu |last=Okada |publisher=Chikuma Shobō |year=202 |isbn=978-4480059307 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GB7fPAAACAAJ |language=ja}}</ref> It is first recorded to have appeared in [[Yokohama Chinatown]] in the early 20th century.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4" /> Although ramen takes its name from ''[[lamian]],'' it did not originate from the hand-pulled lamian noodles of northern China, since the noodles used in ramen are cut, not pulled.<ref name=":0" /> Rather, ramen is derived from southern Chinese noodle dishes such as ''[[char siu]] tangmian'' (roast pork noodle soup) from [[Guangdong]], and ''rousi tangmian'' (sliced meat noodle soup) from [[Jiangnan]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Japanese Noodles (No. 4) |url=https://www.kikkoman.com/en/foodforum/the-japanese-table/32-4.html |access-date=2022-07-20 |website=Kikkoman Corporation |language=ja}}</ref><ref name=":1" /><ref name=":2" /><ref>{{Cite web |title=榨菜肉丝面的南北差异及制作方法 |website=[[Sohu]] |url=https://www.sohu.com/a/321290259_120158353}}</ref> This is reflective of Yokohama Chinatown's demographics, as most Chinese settlers there were Cantonese or Shanghainese.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Yokohama Chinatown Part 2 – Yokohama, Kanagawa |url=https://en.japantravel.com/kanagawa/yokohama-chinatown-part-2/64618 |access-date=2022-07-20 |website=JapanTravel |date=14 November 2020 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Yokohama Chinatown |url=https://thegate12.com/spot/517 |access-date=2022-07-20 |website=THE GATE}}</ref>

[[Sōmen]] is another type of noodle of Chinese origin made from wheat flour, but in Japan it is distinguished from the noodles used in ramen. The noodles used for ramen today are called {{Nihongo||中華麺|chūkamen|{{lit|Chinese noodles}}}} and are made with ''kansui'' ({{lang|ja|鹹水}}, alkaline salt water).

The official diary of [[Shōkoku-ji]] Temple in Kyoto, {{Nihongo||蔭涼軒日録|Inryōken Nichiroku}}, mentions eating {{Nihongo||経帯麪|jīngdàimiàn}}, noodles with ''kansui'', in 1488.<ref>{{Cite book|editor =  Bussho Publishing Society |title = 大日本仏教全書 |trans-title = Complete works of Buddhism in Japan |publisher = Bussho Publishing Society |date = 1913 |page = 1174 |url = https://dl.ndl.go.jp/pid/952839 |doi = 10.11501/952839 |doi-access = free |language = ja |author1 = 仏書刊行会 }}</ref><ref name = "Okumura">{{Cite book |last = Okumura |first = Ayao |title = 麺の歴史 ラーメンはどこから来たか |trans-title =  The History of Noodles: Where Did Ramen Come From |series = Kadokawa Sophia Bunko |publisher =  KADOKAWA / Kadokawa Gakugei Shuppan |date = 2017-11-25 |isbn = 978-4044002923 |language = ja}}</ref> ''Jīngdàimiàn'' is the noodle of the [[Yuan dynasty]]. This is the earliest record of ''kansui'' noodles being eaten in Japan.

One theory says that ramen was introduced to Japan during the 1660s by the [[Neo-Confucianism|neo-Confucian]] scholar [[Zhu Shunsui]], who served as an advisor to [[Tokugawa Mitsukuni]] after he became a refugee in Japan to escape [[Qing dynasty|Manchu rule]]. Mitsukuni became the first Japanese person to eat ramen. However, the noodles Mitsukuni ate were a mixture of starch made from [[lotus root]] and wheat flour, which is different from ''chūkamen'' with ''kansui''.<ref name = "Okumura" />

According to historians, the more plausible theory is that ramen was introduced to Japan in the late 19th<ref name="ao2018" /><ref name="yrm">[[Shin-Yokohama Raumen Museum]]</ref> or early 20th centuries by [[Chinese people in Japan|Chinese immigrants]] living in [[Yokohama Chinatown]].<ref name=":3">{{cite book |script-title=ja:文化麺類学・ラーメン篇 |trans-title=Cultural Noodle-logy;Ramen |first=Tadamasa |last=Okuyama |publisher=Akashi Shoten |year=2003 |isbn=978-4750317922 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-B6OPQAACAAJ |language=ja}}</ref><ref name=":4">{{cite book |script-title=ja:にっぽんラーメン物語 |trans-title=Japanese Ramen Story |first=Keiko |last=Kosuge |publisher=Kodansha |year=1998 |language=ja |isbn=978-4062563024 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=b1mbAAAACAAJ }}</ref> By 1884, lamian noodles had grown popular in Yokohama, [[Kobe]], [[Nagasaki]], and [[Hakodate]], however, this popularity was mostly concentrated among Chinese immigrants and was called ''Nankin soba ('[[Nanjing]] noodles')''.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book |last=Solt |first=George |title=The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze |date=2014 |publisher=University of California Press |isbn=978-0-520-27756-4 |series=California Studies in Food and Culture |location=Berkeley, CA}}</ref> The Japanese government passed a law in 1899 allowing resident aliens to own businesses outside their designated settlements. This development, in addition to the increased labor demands led to a spread of Chinese immigrants throughout Japan.<ref name=":6" /> By 1900, restaurants serving Chinese cuisine from [[Guangzhou]] and Shanghai offered a simple dish of noodles, a few toppings, and a broth flavored with salt and pork bones. Many Chinese living in Japan also pulled portable food stalls, selling ramen and [[Jiaozi|gyōza]] [[dumpling]]s to workers. By the mid-1900s, these stalls used a type of a musical horn called a ''[[charumera]]'' ({{lang|ja|チャルメラ}}, from the Portuguese {{lang|pt|charamela}}) to advertise their presence, a practice some vendors still retain via a loudspeaker and a looped recording. By the early [[Shōwa period]], ramen had become a popular dish when eating out.{{Citation needed|date=February 2018}}

====First store====
[[File:The Japanese-style Chinese noodle RAMEN of the restaurant RAIRAIKEN at Yutenji Tokyo.jpg|thumb|A bowl of ramen from the second ''Rairaiken'' in Yūtenji, opened in 1933 by Fu Xinglei ({{lang|zh-Hant|傅興雷}}), one of the twelve Chinese cooks from the first ''Rairaiken'' store in Asakusa]]

According to ramen expert Hiroshi Osaki, the first specialized ramen shop was ''{{ill|Rairaiken|ja|来々軒}}'' ({{lang|ja|来々軒}}), which opened in 1910 in [[Asakusa]], Tokyo. The Japanese founder, Kan'ichi Ozaki (尾崎貫一), employed twelve [[Cantonese people|Cantonese]] cooks from [[Yokohama]]'s [[Chinatown]] and served the ramen arranged for Japanese customers.<ref>Japanese ramen secret history "Nikkei Sangyo Shimbun premium series, (in Japanese). 『日本ラーメン秘史』日経プレミアムシリーズ、2011</ref><ref name="hakutukan2">[http://www.raumen.co.jp/home/study_history.html 新横浜ラーメン博物館「日本のラーメンの歴史」]</ref> Early versions were wheat noodles in broth topped with [[char siu]].<ref name="ao2018" /> The store also served standard Chinese fare like [[wontons]] and [[shumai]], and is sometimes regarded as the origin of Japanese-Chinese fusion dishes like ''[[chūkadon]]'' and ''[[tenshindon]]''.<ref>{{cite book|author=横田文良|title=中国の食文化研究＜天津編＞|chapter=『天津飯』のルーツを探る|page=10|publisher=辻学園調理・製菓専門学校、ジャパンクッキングセンター|year=2009|isbn=978-4-88046-409-1}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|title=日本史総合辞典|editor=林陸朗、高橋正彦、村上直、他 |publisher=[[Tokyo Shoseki]]|year=1991|isbn=978-4487731756|page=947}}</ref>

''Rairaiken'''s original store closed in 1976, but related stores with the same name currently exist in other places, and have connections to the first store.

In 1933, Fu Xinglei (傅興雷), one of the twelve original chefs, opened a second ''Rairaiken'' in Yūtenji, [[Meguro|Meguro Ward]], Tokyo.<ref name="ong">{{cite web| url = https://thesmartlocal.jp/rairaiken-reopening/| title = Rairaiken, Japan's First-Ever Ramen Restaurant, Reopens At Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum After A 44-Year Hiatus| last = Ong| first = Shi Han| date = August 18, 2020}}</ref>

In 1968, one of Kan'ichi Ozaki's apprentices opened a store named ''Shinraiken'' ("New Raiken") in [[Chiba Prefecture]].<ref name="ong" />

In 2020, Ozaki's grandson and great-great-grandson re-opened the original ''Rairaiken'' as a store inside [[Shin-Yokohama Rāmen Museum]].<ref>{{cite web| url = https://japantoday.com/category/features/food/japan%E2%80%99s-first-ever-ramen-restaurant-reopens-after-44-years| title = Japan's first-ever ramen restaurant reopens after 44 years| last = McGee| first = Oona| work = Japan Today| date = October 26, 2020}}</ref>