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===1980s=== [[File:Punks burning a flag.jpg|thumb|Early 1980s punk fashion]] In the 1980s, new fashion styles developed as parallel resurgences occurred in the [[United States]] and [[United Kingdom]]. What many recognize as typical punk fashions today emerged from the 1980s British scene, when punk underwent its [[Oi!]]/[[street punk]], and [[UK82]] renaissance. The US scene was exemplified by [[Hardcore punk|hardcore]] bands such as [[Black Flag (band)|Black Flag]], [[Minor Threat]], and [[Fear (band)|Fear]]. The 1980s American scene spawned a utilitarian anti-fashion that was nonetheless raw, angry, and intimidating. However, elements of the 1970s punk look never fully died away. Some of the following clothing items were common on both sides of the [[Atlantic Ocean]], and some were unique to certain geographic areas. Footwear that was common in the 1980s punk scene included [[Dr. Martens]] boots, [[motorcycle]] boots and [[combat boot]]s; sometimes adorned with [[Kerchief|bandanas]], chains or studded leather bands. [[Jeans]] (sometimes dirty, torn or splattered with bleach) and [[tartan]] [[kilt]]s or skirts were commonly worn. Leather skirts became a popular item for female punks. Heavy chains were sometimes used as belts. Bullet belts, and studded belts (sometimes more than one worn at a time) also became common. Some punks bought [[T-shirt]]s or [[tartan|plaid]] [[flannel]] [[shirt]]s and wrote political slogans, band names or other punk-related phrases on them with [[marker pen]]s. While this was not without precedent in the 1970s, the depth and detail of these slogans were not fully developed until the 1980s. Silkscreened T-shirts with band logos or other punk-related logos or slogans were also popular. Studded, painted and otherwise customised leather jackets or denim vests became more popular during this era, as the popularity of the earlier customized blazers waned, somewhat. Hair was either shaved, spiked or in a [[crew cut]] or [[Mohawk hairstyle]]. Tall mohawks and spiked hair, either bleached or in bright colors, took on a more extreme character than in the 1970s. ''Charged'' hair, in which all of one's hair stands on end but is not styled into distinct spikes, also emerged. A hairstyle similar to [[Misfits (band)|The Misfits]]' [[devilock]]s was popular. This involved cutting a mohawk but leaving a longer tuft of hair at the front of the head. It is still popular to this day in the Horror-Punk scene. Body piercings and extensive [[tattoo]]s became very popular during this era, as did spike bands and studded in [[choker]]s. Some hardcore punk women reacted to the earlier 1970s movement's [[wikt:coquettish|coquettish]] vibe by adopting an androgynous style. Hardcore punk fans adopted a ''dressed-down'' style of [[T-shirt]]s, [[jeans]], [[combat boots]] or [[Sneakers (footwear)|sneakers]] and [[crewcut]]-style haircuts. Women in the hardcore scene typically wore army pants, band T-shirts, and hooded sweatshirts.<ref name="Premium">{{Cite web |date=2019-01-31 |title=80s Fashion - Vintage 80s Style and Outfits |url=https://premrev.com/vintage-80s-fashion/#80s_Punk_Fashion |access-date=2019-01-31 |website=Premium Review}}</ref><ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 12">{{Cite thesis |last=Brockmeier |first=Siri C. |title='Not Just Boys Fun?' The Gendered Experience of American Hardcore |date=May 2009 |publisher=UNIVERSITETET I OSLO Press |url=https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/26264/BrockmeierxDUO.pdf?sequence=1 |page=12 |access-date=6 July 2016}}</ref> The style of the 1980s hardcore scene contrasted with the more provocative fashion styles of late 1970s punk rockers (elaborate [[punk hair|hairdos]], torn clothes, patches, safety pins, studs, spikes, etc.). [[Circle Jerks]] frontman [[Keith Morris]] described early hardcore fashion as "the...punk scene was basically based on English fashion. But we had nothing to do with that. [[Black Flag (band)|Black Flag]] and the Circle Jerks were so far from that. We looked like the kid who worked at the gas station or submarine shop."<ref>{{Cite web |date=2003-02-17 |title=CITIZINE Interview - Circle Jerks' Keith Morris (Black Flag, Diabetes) |url=http://www.citizinemag.com/music/music-0303_kmorris.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111006082011/http://www.citizinemag.com/music/music-0303_kmorris.htm |archive-date=2011-10-06 |access-date=2011-12-04 |publisher=Citizinemag.com}}</ref> [[Henry Rollins]] echoes Morris' point, stating that for him getting dressed up meant putting on a black shirt and some dark pants; Rollins viewed an interest in fashion as being a distraction.<ref>{{Cite web |title=29 Things You Didn't Know About Punk Style - Hardcore punk of the '80s preferred simple, utilitarian style because it was better for moshing. |website=[[Complex Networks]] |url=http://m.complex.com/style/2013/04/29-things-you-didnt-know-about-punk-style/hardcore-punk |access-date=6 July 2016}}</ref> [[Jimmy Gestapo]] from [[Murphy's Law (band)|Murphy's Law]] describes his own transition from dressing in a punk style (spiked hair and a bondage belt) to adopting a hardcore style (shaved head and boots) as being based on needing more functional clothing.<ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 12" /> A scholarly source states that "hardcore kids do not look like punks", since hardcore scene members wore basic clothing and short haircuts, in contrast to the "embellished leather jackets and pants" worn in the punk scene.<ref name="BrockmeierxDUO p. 11">{{Cite thesis |last=Brockmeier |first=Siri C. |title='Not Just Boys Fun?' The Gendered Experience of American Hardcore |date=May 2009 |publisher=UNIVERSITETET I OSLO Press |url=https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/26264/BrockmeierxDUO.pdf?sequence=1 |page=11 |access-date=6 July 2016}}</ref> In contrast to Morris' and Rollins' views, one scholarly source claims that the standard hardcore punk clothing and styles included torn jeans, leather jackets, spiked armbands and dog collars and [[mohawk hairstyle]]s and DIY ornamentation of clothes with studs, painted band names, political statements, and patches.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Leblanc |first=Lauraine |url=https://archive.org/details/prettyinpunkgirl0000lebl |title='Pretty in Punk: Girls' Gender Resistance in a Boys' Subculture |date=1999 |publisher=Rutgers University Press |page=[https://archive.org/details/prettyinpunkgirl0000lebl/page/52 52] |url-access=registration}}</ref> Another scholarly source describes the look that was common in the San Francisco hardcore scene as consisting of biker-style leather jackets, chains, studded wristbands, pierced noses and multiple piercings, painted or tattooed statements (e.g. an anarchy symbol) and hairstyles ranging from military-style haircuts dyed black or blonde, mohawks, and shaved heads.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Travis |first1=Tiffini A. |title=Skinheads: A Guide to an American Subculture |last2=Hardy |first2=Perry |date=2012 |work=From San Francisco Hardcore Punks to Skinheads |publisher=ABC-CLIO |page=123}}</ref>
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