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===History of fashion modelling=== ====Early years==== In [[Late Middle Ages|14th-century Europe]], fashion had been displayed in miniature form to (often royal) clients by [[fashion doll]]s, before the clothes were made in human size.<ref>Tom Tierney:''[https://books.google.com/books?id=5HFtDQAAQBAJ&dq=Mme+Palmyre+%E2%80%8E&pg=PA17 Great Fashion Designs of the Victorian Era Paper Dolls in Full Color]''</ref> Modelling as a profession was first established in 1853 by [[Charles Frederick Worth]], the "father of [[haute couture]]", when he asked his wife, Marie Vernet Worth, to model the potential clients for the clothes he designed.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.modelworker.com/history.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071017020950/http://www.modelworker.com/history.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=2007-10-17|title=modelworker.com}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal|title=Fabulous faces of fashion: A century of modelling|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/fabulous-faces-of-fashion-a--century-of-modelling-1678417.html|date=4 May 2009|author=Walker, Harriet|journal=The Independent|access-date=2017-09-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110528025946/http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/fabulous-faces-of-fashion-a--century-of-modelling-1678417.html|archive-date=2011-05-28|url-status=dead}}</ref> The term "house model" was coined to describe this type of work. Eventually, this became common practice for [[French fashion#Final 19th, the Belle époque and early 20th century|Parisian fashion houses]]. There were no standard physical measurement requirements for a model, and most designers would use women of varying sizes to demonstrate variety in their [[Fashion design|designs]]. The modelling profession expanded to photo modelling with the development of [[fashion photography]]. Models remained fairly anonymous, and relatively poorly paid, until the late 1940s, when the world's first three supermodels, [[Barbara Goalen]], [[Bettina Graziani]] and [[Lisa Fonssagrives]] began commanding very large sums. During the 1940s and 1950s, Graziani was the most photographed woman in France and the undisputed queen of couture, while Fonssagrives appeared on over 200 ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' covers; her name recognition led to the importance of ''Vogue'' in shaping the careers of fashion models. One of the most popular models during the 1940s was [[Jinx Falkenburg]], who was paid $25 per hour, a large sum at the time;<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oldmagazinearticles.com/Fashion_1940s_Modeling |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110401102507/http://www.oldmagazinearticles.com/Fashion_1940s_Modeling |url-status=dead |archive-date=2011-04-01 |title=fashion models 1940s, fashion modeling in 1940, Forties Fashion modeling agencies, first fashion modeling agency in New York, 1940s fashion models, John Powers modeling agency, girls of the John Roberts Powers modeling agency, Powers Girls Photographs, popular 1 |publisher=Oldmagazinearticles.com |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> through the 1950s, [[Wilhelmina Cooper]], [[Jean Patchett]], [[Dovima]], [[Dorian Leigh]], [[Suzy Parker]], [[Evelyn Tripp]] and [[Carmen Dell'Orefice]] also dominated fashion.<ref>{{cite news |author=Cathy Horyn|date=4 February 2002 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2002/02/04/nyregion/jean-patchett-75-a-model-who-helped-define-the-50-s.html |title=Jean Patchett, 75, a Model Who Helped Define the 50s |newspaper=New York Times |access-date=19 September 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120829054807/http://www.nytimes.com/2002/02/04/nyregion/jean-patchett-75-a-model-who-helped-define-the-50-s.html |archive-date=29 August 2012 |url-status=live }}</ref> [[Dorothea Church]] was among the first black models in the industry to gain recognition in Paris. However, these models were unknown outside the fashion community. [[Wilhelmina Cooper]]'s measurements were 38"-24"-36" whereas [[Chanel Iman]]'s measurements are 32"-23"-33".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/Chanel_Iman |title=Chanel Iman – Fashion Model – Profile on FMD |publisher=Fashionmodeldirectory.com |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120830212536/http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/chanel_iman/ |archive-date=2012-08-30 |url-status=live }}</ref> In 1946, [[Ford Models]] was established by [[Eileen Ford|Eileen]] and [[Gerard W. Ford|Gerard Ford]] in New York, making it one of the oldest model agencies in the world. ====The 1960s and the beginning of the industry==== [[File:Astrid Andersen 01.jpg|thumb|alt=Models walking single file|Models on [[Runway (fashion)|runway]] at a [[fashion show]] ]] In the 1960s, the modelling world established [[Modeling agency|modelling agencies]]. Throughout Europe, secretarial services acted as models' agents charging them weekly rates for their messages and bookings. For the most part, models were responsible for their own billing. In Germany, agents were not allowed to work for a percentage of a person's earnings, so they referred to themselves as secretaries. Except for a few models travelling to Paris or New York, travelling was relatively unheard of for a model. Most models only worked in one market due to different labour laws governing modelling in various countries. In the 1960s, Italy had many fashion houses and [[fashion magazines]] but desperately needed models. Italian agencies often coerced models to return to Italy without work visas by withholding their pay.<ref name="history">{{cite web|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080708041838/http://www.modelscomposites.com/history.htm|url=http://www.modelscomposites.com/history.htm|archive-date=8 July 2008|date=January 2007|title=A Brief History Of Modelling|author=Peter Marlowe|website=The Peter Marlowe Model Composite Archives}}</ref> They would also pay their models in cash, which models would have to hide from [[customs]] agents. It was not uncommon for models staying in hotels such as La Louisiana in [[Paris]] or the Arena in [[Milan]] to have their hotel rooms raided by the police looking for their work visas. It was rumoured that competing agencies were behind the raids. This led many agencies to form worldwide chains; for example, the [[Marilyn Agency]] has branches in Paris and New York.<ref name="history"/> By the late 1960s, [[London]] was considered the best market in Europe due to its more organised and innovative approach to modelling. It was during this period that models began to become household names. Models such as [[Jean Shrimpton]], [[Tania Mallet]], [[Celia Hammond]], [[Twiggy]], and [[Penelope Tree]] dominated the London fashion scene and were well paid, unlike their predecessors.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9013918/David-Baileys-favourite-model-Jean-Shrimpton-was-the-Shrimp-who-sparked-the-Sixties.html |title=David Bailey's favourite model Jean Shrimpton was the Shrimp who sparked the Sixties – Telegraph |publisher=Fashion.telegraph.co.uk |access-date=2012-09-19 |location=London |first=Lisa |last=Armstrong |date=2012-01-20 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120827035540/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9013918/David-Baileys-favourite-model-Jean-Shrimpton-was-the-Shrimp-who-sparked-the-Sixties.html |archive-date=2012-08-27 |url-status=live }}</ref> Twiggy became The Face of '66 at the age of 16.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.twiggylawson.co.uk/fashion.html/ |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20030211153058/http://www.twiggylawson.co.uk/fashion.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=2003-02-11 |title=Twiggy – The Official Site |publisher=Twiggylawson.co.uk |date=1966-02-23 |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> At this time, model agencies were not as restrictive about the models they represented, although it was uncommon for them to sign shorter models. Twiggy, who stood at {{convert|5|ft|6|in|cm}} with a 32" bust and had a boy's haircut, is credited with changing model ideals. At that time, she earned {{GBPConvert|80|year=1966|showdate=no}} an hour, while the average wage was {{GBPConvert|15|year=1966|showdate=no}} a week. [[File:Jean Shrimpton (1965).jpg|thumb|upright|alt=Refer to caption|[[Jean Shrimpton]] in 1965]] In 1967, seven of the top model agents in London formed the Association of London Model Agents. The formation of this association helped legitimise modelling and changed the fashion industry. Even with a more professional attitude towards modelling, models were still expected to have their hair and makeup done before they arrived at a shoot. Meanwhile, agencies took responsibility for a model's promotional materials and branding. That same year, former top fashion model [[Wilhelmina Cooper]] opened up her own fashion agency with her husband called [[Wilhelmina Models]]. By 1968, FM Agency and [[Models 1]] were established and represented models in a similar way that agencies do today.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=23 |title=Europe's Leading Model Agency |publisher=Models 1 |access-date=2012-09-19 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121020130053/http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=23 |archive-date=2012-10-20 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fmmodelagency.com/contact.aspx?nav=2 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090928133313/http://www.fmmodelagency.com/contact.aspx?nav=2 |url-status=dead |archive-date=2009-09-28 |title=FM Agency – London – Contact |publisher=Fmmodelagency.com |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> By the late 1960s, models were treated better and were making better wages. One of the innovators, Ford Models, was the first agency to advance models money they were owed and would often allow teen models, who did not live locally, to reside in their house, a precursor to model housing. ====The 1970s and 1980s==== The innovations of the 1960s flowed into the 1970s fashion scene. As a result of model industry associations and standards,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=24 |title=Europe's Leading Model Agency |publisher=Models 1 |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100914131034/http://www.models1.co.uk/contact.aspx?nav=24 |archive-date=2010-09-14 |url-status=live }}</ref> model agencies became more business minded, and more thought went into a model's promotional materials. By this time, agencies were starting to pay for a model's publicity.<ref name="history"/> In the early 1970s, [[Scandinavia]] had many tall, leggy, [[blond]]e-haired, blue-eyed models and not enough clients. It was during this time that Ford Models pioneered scouting.<ref name="history"/> They would spend time working with agencies holding modeling contests. This was the precursor to the [[Ford Models Supermodel of the World]] competition, established in 1980. Ford also focused its attention on Brazil, which had a wide array of seemingly "exotic" models, which eventually led to the establishment of Ford Models Brazil. During this time, the ''[[Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue]]'' debuted. The magazine set the trend by photographing "bigger and healthier" California models,<ref name=Slate>{{cite web|url=http://www.slate.com/id/2113612/|title=The Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue: An intellectual history|author=Curtis, Bryan|access-date=11 November 2007|date=16 February 2005|publisher=Washington Post. Newsweek Interactive Co. LLC|work=Slate|archive-url=https://archive.today/20071127013208/http://slate.com/id/2113612/|archive-date=2007-11-27|url-status=live}}</ref> and printing their names by their photos, thus turning many of them into household names and establishing the issue as a hallmark of [[supermodel]] status.<ref name=Slate/> [[File:2007 Beverly Johnson.jpg|thumb|left|upright|alt=Refer to caption|[[Beverly Johnson]] in 2007]] The 1970s marked numerous milestones in fashion. [[Beverly Johnson]] was the first [[African Americans|black]] woman to appear on the cover of U.S. [[Vogue (magazine)|''Vogue'']] in 1974.<ref>Joy Sewing [http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/headline/features/6583995.html Beverly Johnson's got the right attitude] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090826163234/http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/headline/features/6583995.html |date=2009-08-26 }} ''The Houston Chronicle'', Retrieved 23 August 2009</ref> Models, including [[Iman (model)|Iman]], [[Grace Jones]], [[Pat Cleveland]], [[Alva Chinn]], [[Donyale Luna]], [[Minah Bird]], [[Naomi Sims]], and [[Toukie Smith]] were some of the top black fashion models who paved the way for black women in fashion.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Zartosht|first=Shahin|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cV8XEAAAQBAJ&dq=Minah+Bird+1970s&pg=PA32|title=MODELING by Shahin Zartosht: A guide to becoming a Model|date=2021-01-27|publisher=Shahin Zartosht|isbn=979-8-7012-4573-8|language=en}}</ref> In 1975, [[Margaux Hemingway]] landed a then-unprecedented million-dollar contract as the face of [[Fabergé (cosmetics)|Fabergé]]'s Babe perfume and the same year appeared on the cover of ''Time'' magazine, labeled one of the "New Beauties", giving further name recognition to fashion models.<ref>{{cite news |last=Fonseca |first=Nicholas |url=https://ew.com/article/2001/06/29/papas-little-girl/ |title=Entertainment Weekly: ''Papa's Little Girl'' |publisher=Ew.com |date=29 June 2001 |access-date=7 March 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100106020603/http://www.ew.com/ew/article/0,,256227,00.html |archive-date=2010-01-06 |url-status=live }}</ref> Many of the world's most prominent modeling agencies were established in the 1970s and early 1980s. These agencies created the standard by which agencies now run. In 1974, Nevs Models was established in London with only a men's board, the first of its kind. Elite Models was founded in Paris in 1975, as well as Friday's Models in [[Japan]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fridayfarm.net/about_us.html |title=About Us |publisher=Fridayfarm.net |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120908041728/http://www.fridayfarm.net/about_us.html |archive-date=2012-09-08 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.elitemodelsindia.com/index.asp |title=Elite Model Management India Pvt. Ltd |publisher=Elitemodelsindia.com |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120928024650/http://www.elitemodelsindia.com/index.asp |archive-date=2012-09-28 |url-status=live }}</ref> The next year Cal-Carries was established in [[Singapore]], the first of a chain of agencies in Asia. In 1977, Select Model Management and Why Not Models in Milan opened its doors. By the 1980s, agencies such as Premier Model Management, Storm Models, Mikas, Marilyn, and Metropolitan Models had been established. [[File:NaomiCampbell.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Naomi Campbell]], one of the most famous [[supermodel]]s]] In October 1981, ''[[Life (magazine)|Life]]'' cited [[Shelley Hack]], Lauren Hutton and Iman for [[Revlon]], Margaux Hemingway for [[Faberge (cosmetics)|Fabergé]], [[Karen Graham]] for [[Estée Lauder Companies|Estée Lauder]], [[Cristina Ferrare]] for [[Max Factor]], and Cheryl Tiegs for [[CoverGirl]] by proclaiming them the "million dollar faces" of the beauty industry. These models negotiated previously unheard-of lucrative and exclusive deals with giant cosmetics companies, were instantly recognizable, and their names became well known to the public.<ref>Best–Selling Beauties, ''[[Life (magazine)|Life]]'' October 1981, page 120</ref> By the 1980s, most models could make modeling a full-time career. [[Patti Hansen]], one of the top earning models in 1980, earned $200 an hour for print and $2,000 for television plus [[Residual (entertainment industry)|residuals]]; it was estimated that she earned about $300,000 a year in 1980 (equivalent to ${{Format price|{{Inflation|US-GDP|300000|1980}}}} in {{Inflation-year|US-GDP}}).<ref>{{cite magazine |last=Clurman |first=Shirley |url=http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20075859,00.html |title=Who Is Patti Hansen? Just the Successor to Tiegs and Fawcett, or So Says Scavullo |magazine=[[People (magazine)|People]] |date=1980-02-18 |access-date=2012-09-19 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121120213307/http://www.people.com/people/article/0,,20075859,00.html |archive-date=2012-11-20 }}</ref> It was common for models to travel abroad and work throughout Europe. As modeling became global, numerous agencies began to think globally. In 1980, Ford Models, the innovator of scouting, introduced the [[Ford Models Supermodel of the World]] contest.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.supermodeloftheworld.com |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20001206212100/http://www.supermodeloftheworld.com/ |url-status=dead |archive-date=2000-12-06 |title=Ford Models Supermodel of the World |publisher=Supermodeloftheworld.com |access-date=2012-09-19 }}</ref> That same year, John Casablancas opened [[Elite Models]] in New York. In 1981, cosmetics companies began contracting top models to lucrative [[Testimonial|endorsement deals]]. By 1983, Elite had developed its own contest, the Elite Model Look competition. In New York, during the 1980s there were so-called "model wars" in which the Ford and Elite agencies fought over models and campaigns. Models were jumping back and forth between agencies such Elite, Wilhelmina, and Ford.<ref>{{cite magazine |last=Rayl |first=Salley |url=http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20077110,00.html |title=The Fashion World Is Rocked by Model Wars, Part Two: the Ford Empire Strikes Back |magazine=[[People (magazine)|People]] |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121120212730/http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20077110,00.html |archive-date=2012-11-20 |url-status=live }}</ref> In New York, the late 1980s trend was the boyish look in which models had short cropped hair and looked [[androgynous]]. In Europe, the trend was the exact opposite. During this time, many American models who were considered more feminine-looking moved abroad.<ref>{{cite web |author=Like |url=http://vimeo.com/13134831 |title=Kitchen Table Conversation with Cindy Morris and Roxan Gould on Vimeo |publisher=Vimeo.com |date=2010-07-06 |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130513115807/http://vimeo.com/13134831 |archive-date=2013-05-13 |url-status=live }}</ref> By the mid-1980s, big hair was made popular by some musical groups, and the boyish look was out. The [[hourglass figure]], a fashionable trend from the late 1940s to the early 1960s, has made a comeback. ====1990s==== [[File:Kate moss.jpg|thumb|upright|alt=Kate Moss wearing sunglasses & a black jacket|[[Kate Moss]], part of the [[heroin chic]] trend]] The high fashion models of the late 1980s dominated the early 1990s. In 1990, [[Linda Evangelista]] famously said to ''Vogue'', "we don't wake up for less than $10,000 a day". Evangelista and her contemporaries, [[Naomi Campbell]], [[Cindy Crawford]], [[Christy Turlington]], [[Tatjana Patitz]], [[Stephanie Seymour]], and [[Yasmeen Ghauri]] became arguably the most recognisable models in the world, earning the moniker of "[[supermodel]]", and were boosted to global recognition and new heights of wealth for the industry.<ref>''Citations'': * {{cite book|last1=Harold Koda|first1=Kohle Yohannan|title=The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion|date=2009|publisher=The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York|location=New York|isbn=978-1-58839-312-8|page=134|edition=First|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/the_model_as_muse_embodying_fashion|access-date=3 August 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160808204545/http://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/The_Model_as_Muse_Embodying_Fashion|archive-date=2016-08-08|url-status=live}} * {{cite web|last1=Callahan|first1=Susannah|title=Super models class of 1990 back in vogue|url=https://nypost.com/2013/08/04/super-models-class-of-1990-back-in-vogue/|website=New York Post (www.nypost.com)|publisher=NYP HOLDINGS, INC|access-date=4 August 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131221144748/http://nypost.com/2013/08/04/super-models-class-of-1990-back-in-vogue/|archive-date=2013-12-21|url-status=live|date=2013-08-04}} * {{cite web|title=Supermodel Status: A Brief History Of The Supermodel|url=http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/supermodel-history-timeline/|website=Fashion Gone Rogue (www.fashiongonerogue.com)|publisher=Fashion Gone Rogue|access-date=14 July 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150714123942/http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/supermodel-history-timeline/|archive-date=2015-07-14|url-status=live|date=2015-07-14}} * {{cite web|last1=Brown|first1=Laura|title=Classic Lindbergh|url=http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/a372/classic-lindbergh-0409/|website=Harper's Bazaar (www.harpersbazaar.com)|publisher=Brant Publishing|access-date=3 August 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160718164956/http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/a372/classic-lindbergh-0409/|archive-date=2016-07-18|url-status=live|date=2009-03-23}}</ref> In 1991, Turlington signed a contract with [[Maybelline]] that paid her $800,000 for twelve days' work each year. By the mid‑1990s, the new "[[heroin chic]]" trend became popular amongst New York and London editorial clients. [[Kate Moss]] became its poster child through her ads for [[Calvin Klein]]. With the popularity of lingerie retailer [[Victoria's Secret]], and the ''[[Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue]]'', there was a need for healthier-looking{{citation needed|date=July 2015}} supermodels such as [[Tyra Banks]] and [[Heidi Klum]] to meet commercial modelling demand. The mid‑1990s also saw many Asian countries establishing modelling agencies. By the late 1990s, the heroin chic era had run its course. Teen-inspired clothing infiltrated mainstream fashion, teen [[pop music]] was on the rise, and artists such as [[Britney Spears]], [[Aaliyah]] and [[Christina Aguilera]] popularised [[Artificial leather|pleather]] and bare midriffs. As fashion changed to a more youthful [[Demography|demographic]], the models who rose to fame had to be sexier for the digital age. Following [[Gisele Bündchen]]'s breakthrough, a wave of [[Brazil]]ian models including [[Adriana Lima]] and [[Alessandra Ambrosio]] rose to fame on runways and became popular in commercial modelling throughout the 2000s. Some have tied this increase in Brazilian models to the trend of magazines featuring celebrities instead of models on their covers.<ref name="um">''Death of the Supermodels'' by C. L. Johnson, ''Urban Models'' 21 October 2002 [http://www.urbanmodels.co.uk/modeling.php?page=supermodels online] retrieved 13 July 2006 {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060715210541/http://www.urbanmodels.co.uk/modeling.php?page=supermodels |date=15 July 2006 }}</ref> ====2000s and since==== {{See also|Size zero}} [[File:Carlson Twins.jpg|thumb|upright|alt=Two muscular men wearing unbuttoned shirts|The identical [[Carlson Twins]] in 2006]] In the late 2000s, the Brazilians fell out of favour on the runways. Editorial clients were favouring models with a china-doll or alien look to them, such as [[Gemma Ward]] and [[Lily Cole]]. During the 2000s, Ford Models and [[NEXT Model Management]] were engaged in a legal battle, with each agency alleging that the other was stealing its models.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2010/05/24/model-agency-wars-next-vs-ford |title=Model agency wars Next vs Ford (Vogue.com UK) |publisher=Vogue.co.uk |date=2010-05-24 |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121110111653/http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2010/05/24/model-agency-wars-next-vs-ford |archive-date=2012-11-10 |url-status=live }}</ref> [[File:Gemma Ward.jpg|thumb|left|upright|alt=Genna Ward wearing a red hat and dress|[[Gemma Ward]], an Australian model]] However, the most significant controversy of the 2000s was the health of high-fashion models participating in fashion week. While the health of models had been a concern since the 1970s, there were several high-profile news stories surrounding the deaths of young fashion models due to [[eating disorder]]s and [[drug abuse]]. The [[British Fashion Council]] subsequently asked designers to sign a contract stating they would not use models under the age of sixteen.<ref>{{cite magazine |url=http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/160449/underage-models-banned-at-london-fashion-week.html |title=Fashion news: Underage models banned at London Fashion Week |magazine=Marie Claire |access-date=2012-09-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121115194925/http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/160449/underage-models-banned-at-london-fashion-week.html |archive-date=2012-11-15 |url-status=live }}</ref> On March 3, 2012, ''Vogue'' banned models under the age of sixteen as well as models who appeared to have an eating disorder.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/47286154/ns/today-style/t/vogue-bans-models-who-are-too-skinny-underage/#.UELGL1tQfwk |title=Vogue bans models who are too skinny, underage - style - TODAY.com |publisher=[[MSNBC]] |access-date=2012-09-19 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121004234251/http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/47286154/ns/today-style/t/vogue-bans-models-who-are-too-skinny-underage/#.UELGL1tQfwk |archive-date=2012-10-04 }}</ref> Similarly, other countries placed bans on unhealthy, and underage models, including [[Spain]], [[Italy]], [[Israel]] and [[France]], which all enacted a minimum [[body mass index]] (BMI) requirement. The French law also requires digitally altered pictures of models to be identified as such.<ref>{{Cite web |last=TFL |date=2020-10-12 |title=How Have 'Model Health' Laws Actually Impacted the Fashion Industry? |url=https://www.thefashionlaw.com/how-have-fashions-model-laws-impacted-the-fashion-industry/ |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=The Fashion Law |language=en}}</ref> In 2013, New York toughened its child labour law protections for models under the age of eighteen by passing New York Senate Bill No. 5486, which gives underage models the same labour protections afforded to child actors. Key new protections included the following: underage models are not to work before 5:00 pm or after 10:00 pm on school nights, nor were they to work later than 12:30 am on non-school nights; the models may not return to work less than twelve hours after they leave; a pediatric nurse must be on-site; an adult chaperone must accompany models under sixteen; parents or guardians of underage models must create a trust fund account into which employers will transfer a minimum of 15% of the [[child model]]'s gross earnings; and employers must set aside time and a dedicated space for educational instruction.<ref>{{cite journal|last=Darwell|first=Robert A.|author2=Theodore C. Max |author3=Edwin Komen |author4=James A. Mercer III|title=The New Catwalk Experience: New York Tightens Laws for Underage Models|journal=The National Law Review|date=October 29, 2013|url=http://www.natlawreview.com/article/new-catwalk-experience-new-york-tightens-laws-underage-models|access-date=2013-11-17|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131030061736/http://www.natlawreview.com/article/new-catwalk-experience-new-york-tightens-laws-underage-models|archive-date=2013-10-30|url-status=live}}</ref>
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