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==History== ===Early history and development=== {{Redirect|Great Kill|the neighborhood in Staten Island|Great Kills, Staten Island}} [[File:West-side-ship.jpg|thumb|[[Manhattan Cruise Terminal]] in Hell's Kitchen at 52nd Street]] On the island of Manhattan when Europeans first saw it, the Great [[Kill (body of water)|Kill]] formed from three small streams that united near present-day Tenth Avenue and 40th Street, and then wound through the low-lying Reed Valley, renowned for fish and waterfowl,<ref>[[Gerard T. Koeppel]], ''Water for Gotham: A History'', 2001:10. {{ISBN|0-691-01139-7}}</ref> emptying into the [[Hudson River]] at a deep bay on the river at the present [[42nd Street (Manhattan)|42nd Street]].<ref>Eric W. Sanderson, ''Mannahatta: A Natural History of New York City'', 2009: Appendix A, p. 253 {{ISBN|978-0-8109-9633-5}}; refs. G.E. Hill and G.E. Waring Jr, "Old wells and water-courses on the isle of Manhattan", in ''Historic New York'', M.W. Goodwin, A.C. Royce, and R. Putnam, 1897; and others.</ref> The name was retained in a tiny hamlet called Great Kill, which became a center for carriage-making. The upland to the south and east became known as Longacre, the predecessor of [[Longacre Square]], now [[Times Square]].<ref>Edwin G. Burrows and Mike Wallace, ''Gotham: A History of New York City to 1898'', 1999:721. {{ISBN|0-19-511634-8}}</ref> One of the large farms of the colonial era in this neighborhood was that of Andreas Hopper and his descendants, extending from today's 48th Street nearly to 59th Street and from the river east to what is now [[Sixth Avenue]]. One of the Hopper farmhouses, built in 1752 for John Hopper the younger, stood near [[53rd Street (Manhattan)|53rd Street]] and Eleventh Avenue. Christened "Rosevale" for its extensive gardens, it was the home of the War of 1812 veteran, Gen. Garrit Hopper Striker, and lasted until 1896, when it was demolished.<ref>{{cite news |title=New Hospital Home on Old Hopper Farm; Elegant Country Mansion for Over a Century on Block Bought by the New York Hospital. |work=The New York Times |date=March 12, 1911 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1911/03/12/archives/new-hospital-home-on-old-hopper-farm-elegant-country-mansion-for.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195145/https://www.nytimes.com/1911/03/12/archives/new-hospital-home-on-old-hopper-farm-elegant-country-mansion-for.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The site was purchased for the city and naturalistically landscaped by Samuel Parsons Jr. as [[DeWitt Clinton Park]]. In 1911, [[Weill Cornell Medical Center|New York Hospital]] bought a full city block largely of the Hopper property, between 54th and 55th Streets, Eleventh and [[Twelfth Avenue (Manhattan)|Twelfth Avenues]].<ref>{{cite news |title=New Hospital Home on Old Hopper Farm; Elegant Country Mansion for Over a Century on Block Bought by the New York Hospital. |work=The New York Times |date=March 12, 1911 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1911/03/12/archives/new-hospital-home-on-old-hopper-farm-elegant-country-mansion-for.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195145/https://www.nytimes.com/1911/03/12/archives/new-hospital-home-on-old-hopper-farm-elegant-country-mansion-for.html |url-status=live }}</ref> Beyond the railroad track, projecting into the river at 54th Street, was Mott's Point, with an 18th-century Mott family house surrounded by gardens, that was inhabited by members of the family until 1884 and survived until 1895.<ref name="NYT1902">{{cite news |title=New York's New Up-town Centre; Long Acre Square of To-day and Yesterday โ Scenes Witnessed in the Neighborhood "During Revolutionary Times โ Property Owners Whose Gardens and Farms Once Made the District Attractive โ Washington's Connection with the Place โ A Famous Road House and the Civil War. |work=The New York Times |date=September 21, 1902 |url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=9B06E1D91E3BE733A25752C2A96F9C946397D6CF |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195144/https://www.nytimes.com/1902/09/21/archives/new-yorks-new-uptown-centre-long-acre-square-of-today-and-yesterday.html |url-status=live }}</ref> [[File:Harbor View Terrace NYCHA jeh.jpg|thumb|Harborview Terrace public housing buildings between West 54th and West 56th Streets, and Tenth and Eleventh Avenues, part of the [[New York City Housing Authority]]<ref>[http://www.nyc.gov/html/nycha/html/developments/manharborview.shtml "Profile: Harborview Terrace"] {{Webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140307031614/http://www.nyc.gov/html/nycha/html/developments/manharborview.shtml |date=March 7, 2014 }}, NYCHA website</ref>]] A lone surviving structure from the time this area was open farmland and suburban villas is a pre-1800s carriage house that once belonged to a villa owned by former Vice President and New York State governor [[George Clinton (vice president)|George Clinton]], now in a narrow court behind 422 West 46th Street.<ref>Kevin Walsh, [https://archive.org/details/forgottennewyork00wals ''Forgotten New York: The Ultimate Urban Explorer's Guide to All Five Boroughs''] (2006), p. 176.</ref> From 1811 until it was officially de-mapped in 1857, the diminutive Bloomingdale Square was part of the city's intended future. It extended from 53rd to 57th Streets between Eighth and Ninth Avenues. It was eliminated after the establishment of Central Park,<ref>[http://www.oldstreets.com/index.asp?letter=B Gilbert Tauber, "Old Streets of New York": "B" Streets] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110714234946/http://www.oldstreets.com/index.asp?letter=B |date=July 14, 2011 }}.</ref> and the name shifted to the junction of Broadway, [[West End Avenue]], and 106th Street, now [[Straus Park]].<ref>Ken Bloom, ''Broadway: Its History, People, and Places: An Encyclopedia'', "Introduction", 2004, p. xiii.</ref> In 1825, the City purchased for $10 clear title to a right-of-way through John Leake Norton's{{efn|Norton, the great-nephew of John Leake, founder of [[Leake and Watts Children's Home]], is listed among early 19th-century owners of considerable tracts in what is now Hell's Kitchen, with [[John Jacob Astor]], William Cutting, Thomas Addis Emmet, Andrew Hopper, John Horn and William Wright.<ref name=NYT1902 />}} farm, "The Hermitage", to lay out [[42nd Street (Manhattan)|42nd Street]] clear to the river. Before long, cattle ferried from [[Weehawken]] were being driven along the unpaved route to slaughterhouses on the East Side.<ref>Ken Bloom, ''Broadway: Its History, People, and Places: An Encyclopedia'', "Introduction", 2004, p. xiii.</ref> Seventy acres of the Leakes', later the Nortons' property, extending north from 42nd to 46th Street and from Broadway to the river, were purchased before 1807 by [[John Jacob Astor]] and [[William Cutting]], who held it before dividing it into building lots as the district became more suburban. The West Side later had its own slaughterhouses, which went out of business in the middle 20th century.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Cow Tunnels โ 99% Invisible |work=99% Invisible |url=https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/cow-tunnels/ |access-date=2021-07-08 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195146/https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/cow-tunnels/ |url-status=live }}</ref> ===Unity with the city and deterioration=== {{More citations needed section|date=June 2017}} [[File:Jacob Riis - Hells Kitchen and Sebastopol - photograph.jpg|thumb|''Hell's Kitchen and Sebastopol'', c. 1890, photographed by [[Jacob Riis]]]] There were multiple changes that helped Hell's Kitchen integrate with New York City proper. The first was construction of the [[West Side Line|Hudson River Railroad]], whose initial leg โ the {{cvt|40|mi|km}} to [[Peekskill, New York|Peekskill]] โ was completed on September 29, 1849, By the end of 1849, it stretched to [[Poughkeepsie, New York|Poughkeepsie]] and in 1851 it extended to [[Albany, New York|Albany]]. The track ran at a steep grade up Eleventh Avenue, as far as [[60th Street (Manhattan)|60th Street]].<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.catskillarchive.com/rrextra/abnyh.Html |title=Bradbury and Guild, ''The Hudson River and the Hudson River Railroad'', 1851. |access-date=March 19, 2010 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195142/http://www.catskillarchive.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi |url-status=live }}</ref> The formerly rural riverfront was industrialized by businesses, such as tanneries, that used the river for shipping products and dumping waste. The neighborhood that would later be known as Hell's Kitchen started forming in the southern part of the 22nd Ward in the mid-19th century. Irish immigrants โ mostly refugees from the [[Great Famine (Ireland)|Great Famine]] โ found work on the docks and railroad along the [[Hudson River]] and established [[shanty town|shantytowns]] there. [[File:782 8th Ave NYC 1915 where Elsie Sigel was murdered.jpg|thumb|Mission House, Hell's Kitchen, c. 1915]] After the [[American Civil War]], there was an influx of people who moved to New York City. The tenements that were built became overcrowded quickly. Many who lived in this congested, poverty-stricken area turned to gang life. Following [[Prohibition in the United States|Prohibition]], implemented in 1919, the district's many warehouses were ideal locations for bootleg distilleries for the [[rum-running|rumrunners]] who controlled illicit liquor. At the start of the 20th century, the neighborhood was controlled by gangs, including the violent [[Gopher Gang]] led by One Lung Curran and later by [[Owney Madden]].<ref>Bayor, Ronald H. and Meagher, Timothy J. (1997). ''The New York Irish'', pp. 217โ18. JHU Press. {{ISBN|0-8018-5764-3}}.</ref> Early gangs, like the Hell's Kitchen Gang, transformed into organized crime entities, around the same time that Owney Madden became one of the most powerful mobsters in New York. It became known as the "most dangerous area on the American Continent". By the 1930s, when the [[330 West 42nd Street|McGraw-Hill Building]] was constructed in Hell's Kitchen, the surrounding area was still largely tenements.<ref>{{cite NY1930|page=580}}</ref> After the [[repeal of Prohibition]], many of the organized crime elements moved into other rackets, such as illegal gambling and union shakedowns. The postwar era was characterized by a flourishing waterfront, and longshoreman work was plentiful.<ref>English, T.J. (2006). ''The Westies: Inside New York's Irish Mob'', p. 39. Macmillan. {{ISBN|0-312-36284-6}}.</ref> By the end of the 1970s, the implementation of [[containerization|containerized]] shipping led to the decline of the [[West Side (Manhattan)|West Side]] piers and many longshoremen found themselves out of work. In addition, construction of the [[Lincoln Tunnel]] in the 1930s, Lincoln Tunnel access roads, and the [[Port Authority Bus Terminal]] and ramps starting in 1950 destroyed much of Hell's Kitchen south of 41st Street.<ref>English, T.J. (2006). ''The Westies: Inside New York's Irish Mob'', p. 39. Macmillan. {{ISBN|0-312-36284-6}}.</ref> In 1959, an aborted rumble between rival Irish and Puerto Rican gangs led to the notorious "[[Salvador Agron|Capeman]]" murders in which two innocent teenagers, mistaken for rival gang members, were killed.<ref>Hinckley, David. [https://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/cape-man-murders-shook-new-york-city-article-1.821121 "https://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/cape-man-murders-shook-new-york-city-article-1.821121"], ''[[New York Daily News]]'', August 14, 2017. Accessed April 26, 2023. "There were 390 murders tallied by New York City police in 1959, and the Cape Man did only two of them. But these two shook loose the city's worst nightmares."</ref> By 1965, Hell's Kitchen was the home base of the [[Westies]], an [[Irish mob]] aligned with the [[Gambino crime family]]. In the early 1980s widespread [[gentrification]] began to alter the demographics of the longtime working-class [[Irish American]] neighborhood. The 1980s saw an end to the Westies' reign of terror, when the gang lost all of its power after the [[Racketeer Influenced and Corrupt Organizations Act|RICO]] convictions of most of its principals in 1986. ===First wave of gentrification=== ====Special Clinton zoning district==== [[File:NYC-play-pen.jpg|thumb|Eighth Avenue was once lined with porn stores and theaters. The stores have mostly gone since the late 1990s, but this particular store, which was highlighted in the 2003 film ''[[Phone Booth (film)|Phone Booth]],'' remained until 2007.]] Although the neighborhood is immediately west of New York's main business district, large-scale redevelopment has been kept in check for more than 40 years by strict zoning rules in a Special Clinton District<ref>Department of City Planning, [https://www1.nyc.gov/assets/planning/download/pdf/zoning/zoning-text/art09c06.pdf?r=091416 Special Clinton District zoning text] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170202042915/https://www1.nyc.gov/assets/planning/download/pdf/zoning/zoning-text/art09c06.pdf?r=091416 |date=February 2, 2017 }}.</ref> designed to protect the neighborhood's residents and its low-rise character. In part to qualify for federal aid, New York developed a comprehensive ''Plan for New York City'' in 1969โ70. While for almost all neighborhoods, the master plan contained few proposals, it was very explicit about the bright future of Hell's Kitchen. The plan called for 2,000 to 3,000 new hotel rooms, 25,000 apartments, {{cvt|25|e6sqft|m2}} of office space, a new super liner terminal, a subway along 48th Street, and a convention center to replace what the plan described as "blocks of antiquated and deteriorating structures of every sort."<ref>{{cite news |title=New Exhibit Hall Planned Here |first=Edward C. |last=Burks |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1970/03/25/archives/new-exhibit-hall-planned-here.html |newspaper=The New York Times |date=March 25, 1970 |access-date=July 26, 2018 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195143/https://www.nytimes.com/1970/03/25/archives/new-exhibit-hall-planned-here.html |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last=Stern |first=Michael |title=6th And Last Part of Master Plan on City Released; Volume on Manhattan Urges Building of Offices Along 48th St. Transit Line Westward Pattern Set Condemnation of Big Tracts Intended to Insure Public Use of Some of Area |work=The New York Times |date=December 8, 1970 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1970/12/08/archives/6th-and-last-part-of-master-plan-on-city-released-volume-on.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=November 7, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107114349/http://www.nytimes.com/1970/12/08/archives/6th-and-last-part-of-master-plan-on-city-released-volume-on.html |url-status=live }}</ref> However, outrage at the massive residential displacement that this development project would have caused,<ref>{{cite news |last=Blumenthal |first=Ralph |title=Elliott Assailed at Plan Hearing; Clinton-Chelsea Residents Denounce Proposals |work=The New York Times |date=March 7, 1972 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1972/03/07/archives/elliott-assailed-at-plan-hearing-clintonchelsea-residents-denounce.html |access-date=July 25, 2018 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195143/https://www.nytimes.com/1972/03/07/archives/elliott-assailed-at-plan-hearing-clintonchelsea-residents-denounce.html |url-status=live }}</ref> and the failure of the City to complete any replacement housing, led to opposition to the first project โ a new convention center to replace the [[New York Coliseum]].<ref>{{cite news |title=City Planning Convention Center |first=Edward C. |last=Burks |url=https://select.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=FB0D10F73B5F127A93C6AB1789D85F458785F9 |newspaper=The New York Times |date=February 24, 1971 |access-date=February 8, 2017 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195200/https://www.nytimes.com/1971/02/24/archives/city-planning-convention-center-city-is-planning-convention-area.html |url-status=live }}</ref> To prevent the convention center from sparking a development boom that would beget the rest of the master plan with its consequent displacement, the Clinton Planning Council and Daniel Gutman, their environmental planner, proposed that the convention center and all major development be located south of 42nd Street, where public policy had already left tracts of vacant land.<ref>{{cite news |last=Darnton |first=John |title=Convention Center Model Unveiled Here With Pride; A Dissenting View |work=The New York Times |date=February 14, 1973 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1973/02/14/archives/convention-center-model-unveiled-here-with-pride-a-4level-building.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=November 7, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107113931/http://www.nytimes.com/1973/02/14/archives/convention-center-model-unveiled-here-with-pride-a-4level-building.html |url-status=live }}</ref> Nevertheless, in 1973, the [[Jacob K. Javits Convention Center]] was approved for a 44th Street site that would replace piers 84 and 86. But in exchange, and after the defeat of a bond issue that would have funded a 48th Street "people mover",<ref>Richard Witkin, [https://www.nytimes.com/1971/11/04/archives/state-will-cancel-some-road-projects.html "State Will Cancel Some Road Projects,"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107030135/http://www.nytimes.com/1971/11/04/archives/state-will-cancel-some-road-projects.html |date=November 7, 2017 }} ''The New York Times'', November 4, 1971.</ref> the City first abandoned the rest of the 1969โ70 master plan<ref>{{cite news |last=Tomasson |first=Robert E. |title=Developers Turning to West Midtown |work=The New York Times |date=February 18, 1973 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1973/02/18/archives/developers-turning-to-west-midtown-developers-turn-to-west-side.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=October 2, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171002072601/http://www.nytimes.com/1973/02/18/archives/developers-turning-to-west-midtown-developers-turn-to-west-side.html |url-status=live }}</ref> and then gave the neighborhood a special zoning district to restrict further redevelopment.<ref>{{cite news |last=Fowler |first=Glenn |title=City Is Limiting Clinton Building; Board of Estimate Enacts Special Zoning Controls on Runaway Development |work=The New York Times |date=November 22, 1974 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1974/11/22/archives/city-is-limiting-clinton-building-board-of-estimate-enacts-special.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=October 2, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171002072655/http://www.nytimes.com/1974/11/22/archives/city-is-limiting-clinton-building-board-of-estimate-enacts-special.html |url-status=live }}</ref> Since then, limited new development has filled in the many empty lots and rejuvenated existing buildings. Later, in 1978, when the city could not afford the higher cost of constructing the 44th Street convention center over water, the Mayor and Governor chose the rail yard site originally proposed by the local community.<ref>{{cite news |last=Kaiser |first=Charles |title=Convention Site at West 34th St. Chosen by Koch; He and Carey Outline Plans for Center |work=The New York Times |date=April 29, 1978 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/29/archives/new-jersey-pages-convention-site-at-west-34th-st-chosen-by-koch-he.html |access-date=September 20, 2015 |archive-date=October 2, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171002022829/http://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/29/archives/new-jersey-pages-convention-site-at-west-34th-st-chosen-by-koch-he.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The SCD was originally split into four areas: *'''Preservation Area:''' 43rd to 56th Streets between Eighth and Tenth Avenues. R-7 density, 6-story height limit on new buildings, suggested average apartment size of two bedrooms. This was a response to the fact that between 1960 and 1970 developers had torn down 2,300 family-sized units and replaced them with 1,500 smaller units. *'''Perimeter Area:''' Eighth Avenue, 42nd and 57th Streets. Bulkier development permitted to counterbalance the downzoning in the preservation area. *'''Mixed Use Area:''' Tenth and Eleventh Avenues between 43rd and 50th Streets. Mixed residential and manufacturing. New residential development only permitted in conjunction with manufacturing areas. Later combined into "Other Areas". *'''Other Areas:''' West of Eleventh Avenue. Industrial and waterfront uses. Later combined with "Mixed Use Area" Special permits are required for all demolition and construction in the SCD, including demolition of "any sound housing in the District" and any rehabilitation that increases the number of dwellings in a structure. In the original provisions, no building could be demolished unless it was unsound. New developments, conversions, or alterations that create new units or zero bedroom units must contain at least 20% two bedroom apartments with a minimum room size of {{cvt|168|sqft|m2|0}}. Alterations that reduce the percentage of two-bedroom units are not permitted unless the resulting building meets the 20% two-bedroom requirement. Building height in the Preservation Area cannot exceed {{cvt|66|ft|m}} or seven stories, whichever is less. ====Windermere==== [[File:Windermere-apartment.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|The Windermere Apartments at Ninth Avenue and 57th Street]] As the gentrification pace increased, there were numerous reports of problems between landlords and tenants. The most extreme example was the eight-story Windermere Apartments complex at the southwest corner of Ninth Avenue and 57th Street. Built in 1881, it is the second-oldest large apartment house in Manhattan.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://s-media.nyc.gov/agencies/lpc/lp/2171.pdf |title=The Windermere |date=June 28, 2005 |publisher=[[New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission]] |access-date=December 8, 2018 |archive-date=April 8, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195147/http://s-media.nyc.gov/agencies/lpc/lp/2171.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> In 1980, the owner, Alan B. Weissman, tried to empty the building of its tenants. According to former tenants and court papers, rooms were ransacked, doors were ripped out, prostitutes were moved in, and tenants received death threats in the campaign to empty the building. All the major New York newspapers covered the trials that sent the Windermere's managers to jail. Although Weissman was never linked to the harassment, he and his wife made top billing in the 1985 edition of ''[[The Village Voice]]''{{'s}} annual list, "The Dirty Dozen: New York's Worst Landlords."<ref>[https://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/20/nyregion/ninth-avenue-noir.html?pagewanted=all "Ninth Avenue Noir"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195144/https://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/20/nyregion/ninth-avenue-noir.html?pagewanted=all |date=April 8, 2023 }} by Elias Wolfberg, ''[[The New York Times]]'', January 20, 2002</ref> Most of the tenants eventually settled and moved out of the building. In May 2006, seven tenants remained<ref>[https://www.nytimes.com/2007/10/22/nyregion/22windermere.html?_r=0&ref=nyregion&pagewanted=all "An Epic Landlord-Tenant Fight, Crossing Years and Continents"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195146/https://www.nytimes.com/2007/10/22/nyregion/22windermere.html?_r=0&ref=nyregion&pagewanted=all |date=April 8, 2023 }} by Anthony Ramirez, ''The New York Times'', October 22, 2007</ref> and court orders protecting the tenants and the building allowed it to remain in a derelict condition even as the surrounding neighborhood was experiencing a dramatic burst of demolition and redevelopment. In September 2007, the fire department evacuated the remaining seven residents from the building, citing dangerous conditions, and padlocked the front door.<ref>[https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9805E1D8123AF931A1575AC0A9619C8B63 "Fire Dept. Orders Windermere Tenants Out"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230408195150/https://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/22/nyregion/22windemere.html |date=April 8, 2023 }} by Anthony Ramirez, ''The New York Times'', September 22, 2007</ref> In 2008, the [[New York Supreme Court]] ruled that the owners of the building, who include the [[TOA Construction Corporation]] of Japan, must repair it.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/10/nyregion/10windermere.html |title=Repairs Ordered at Windermere |last=Associated Press |date=May 10, 2008 |work=The New York Times |access-date=October 25, 2009 |archive-date=January 7, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160107161436/http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/10/nyregion/10windermere.html |url-status=live }}</ref> {{Clear}} ====Failed rezoning attempts==== [[File:10th-ave.jpg|thumb|Looking south on Tenth Avenue from 59th Street]] By the 1980s, the area south of 42nd Street was in decline. Both the state and the city hoped that the [[Jacob K. Javits Convention Center]] would renew the area.<ref name="olympic2012-won">{{cite web |url=http://wagner.nyu.edu/files/faculty/publications/Olympics_in_NYC_2012_REPORT_110711.pdf |title=How New York City Won the Olympics |publisher=[[New York University]] |work=Rudin Center for Transportation Policy and Management, Robert F. Wagner Graduate School of Public Service |date=November 2011 |access-date=September 11, 2015 |author=Mitchell L. Moss |archive-date=September 26, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150926234053/http://wagner.nyu.edu/files/faculty/publications/Olympics_in_NYC_2012_REPORT_110711.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> Hotels, restaurants, apartment buildings, and television studios were proposed.<ref name="nyt19860406">Lyons, Richard. [https://www.nytimes.com/1986/04/06/realestate/glittering-javits-center-kindles-dreams-for-west-side.html "Glittering Javits Center Kindles Dreams For West Side."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801052908/http://www.nytimes.com/1986/04/06/realestate/glittering-javits-center-kindles-dreams-for-west-side.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. April 6, 1986. Section B, page 7, column 1.</ref> One proposal included apartments and hotels on a {{cvt|30|acre}} pier jutting out onto Hudson River, which included a [[marina]], [[ferry slip]], stores, restaurants, and a [[performing arts center]].<ref>Finder, Alan. [https://www.nytimes.com/1987/02/11/nyregion/developers-named-for-hudson-complex.html "Developers Named For Hudson Complex."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801052845/http://www.nytimes.com/1987/02/11/nyregion/developers-named-for-hudson-complex.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. February 11, 1987. Section B, page 1, column 2.</ref> At Ninth Avenue and 33rd Street, a 32-story office tower would be built.<ref>Scardino, Albert. [https://www.nytimes.com/1987/04/22/nyregion/project-would-extend-office-towers-to-ninth-avenue.html "Project Would Extend Office Towers To Ninth Avenue."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801053125/http://www.nytimes.com/1987/04/22/nyregion/project-would-extend-office-towers-to-ninth-avenue.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. April 22, 1987. Section B, page 1, column 2.</ref> Hotels, apartment buildings, and a [[Madison Square Garden]] would be built over the tracks west of [[Pennsylvania Station (New York City)|Pennsylvania Station]].<ref>Gottlieb, Martin. [https://www.nytimes.com/1986/04/26/nyregion/new-sports-arena-planned-for-site-west-of-10th-ave.html "New Sports Arena Planned For Site West Of 10th Ave."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801053302/http://www.nytimes.com/1986/04/26/nyregion/new-sports-arena-planned-for-site-west-of-10th-ave.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. April 26, 1986. Section 1, page 1, column 1.</ref><ref>Scardino, Albert. [https://www.nytimes.com/1987/04/06/nyregion/12-block-office-entertainment-center-planned-on-west-side.html "12-Block Office-Entertainment Center Planned On West Side."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801052835/http://www.nytimes.com/1987/04/06/nyregion/12-block-office-entertainment-center-planned-on-west-side.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. April 6, 1987. Section B, page 1, column 2.</ref> North of the Javits Center, a "Television City" would be developed by [[Larry Silverstein]] in conjunction with [[NBC]].<ref name=nyt19860406/> One impediment to development was the lack of mass transit in the area, which is far from Penn Station, and none of the proposals for a link to Penn Station was pursued successfully, for example, the ill-fated West Side Transitway.<ref>Gregory P. Benz, et al., [http://onlinepubs.trb.org/Onlinepubs/sr/sr221/221-018.pdf "West Side Manhattan Transitway Study] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107022108/http://onlinepubs.trb.org/Onlinepubs/sr/sr221/221-018.pdf |date=November 7, 2017 }}," Transportation Research Board, Special Report No. 221, May 8โ11, 1988.</ref> No changes to the zoning policy happened until 1990, when the city rezoned a small segment of 11th Avenue near the Javits Center.<ref>Oser, Alan. [https://www.nytimes.com/1990/02/04/realestate/perspectives-the-west-30-s-land-uses-near-the-convention-center.html "Perspectives: The West 30's; Land Uses Near the Convention Center."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107120226/http://www.nytimes.com/1990/02/04/realestate/perspectives-the-west-30-s-land-uses-near-the-convention-center.html |date=November 7, 2017 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. February 4, 1990. Section 10, page 9, column 2.</ref><ref>Buder, Leonard. [https://www.nytimes.com/1990/02/24/nyregion/area-near-javits-center-is-rezoned.html "Area Near Javits Center Is Rezoned."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107120605/http://www.nytimes.com/1990/02/24/nyregion/area-near-javits-center-is-rezoned.html |date=November 7, 2017 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. February 24, 1990. Section 1, page 29, column 2.</ref> In 1993, part of 9th Avenue between 35th and 41st Streets was also rezoned.<ref>Howe, Marvine. [https://www.nytimes.com/1993/10/24/nyregion/neighborhood-report-midtown-after-30-years-it-s-ciao-giordano.html "Neighborhood Report: Midtown; After 30 Years It's Ciao, Giordano."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801053236/http://www.nytimes.com/1993/10/24/nyregion/neighborhood-report-midtown-after-30-years-it-s-ciao-giordano.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. October 24, 1993. Section 13, page 6, column 1.</ref><ref>Lambert, Bruce. [https://www.nytimes.com/1994/07/10/nyregion/neighborhood-report-clinton-on-ninth-ave-a-new-call-for-help.html "Neighborhood Report: Clinton; On Ninth Ave., A New Call For Help..."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801052858/http://www.nytimes.com/1994/07/10/nyregion/neighborhood-report-clinton-on-ninth-ave-a-new-call-for-help.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. July 10, 1994. Section 13, page 6, column 4.</ref> However, neither of these rezonings was particularly significant, as most of the area was still zoned as a manufacturing district with low-rise apartment buildings.<ref>Lyons, Richard. [https://www.nytimes.com/1989/07/02/realestate/postings-for-pioneers-housing-near-javits-center.html "Postings: For Pioneers?; Housing Near Javits Center."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107120751/http://www.nytimes.com/1989/07/02/realestate/postings-for-pioneers-housing-near-javits-center.html |date=November 7, 2017 }} ''The New York Times''. New York. July 2, 1989. Section 10, page 1, column 4.</ref> By the early 1990s, there was [[Early 1990s recession in the United States|a recession]], which scuttled plans for rezoning and severely reduced the amount of development in the area.<ref>Rozhon, Tracie. [https://www.nytimes.com/1996/06/09/realestate/80-s-giant-dreams-facing-90-s-economic-realities.html "80's Giant Dreams Facing 90's Economic Realities."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801053247/http://www.nytimes.com/1996/06/09/realestate/80-s-giant-dreams-facing-90-s-economic-realities.html |date=August 1, 2016 }} ''[[The New York Times]]'', June 9, 1996. Section 9, page 1, column 4.</ref> After the recession was over, developers invested in areas like [[Times Square]], eastern Hell's Kitchen, and [[Chelsea, Manhattan|Chelsea]], but mostly skipped the Far West Side.<ref>[[David W. Dunlap|Dunlap, David]]. [https://www.nytimes.com/1997/08/24/realestate/the-taming-of-the-wild-west.html "The Taming Of the 'Wild West'."] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160801053210/http://www.nytimes.com/1997/08/24/realestate/the-taming-of-the-wild-west.html |date=August 1, 2016 }}, ''[[The New York Times]]'', August 24, 1997. Accessed December 1, 2016.</ref> ===September 11, 2001=== [[File:Engine54-memorial.jpg|thumb|upright|Memorial to 15 firefighters from Engine Co. 54/Ladder Co. 4/Battalion 9 who died on September 11, 2001]] While most fire stations in Manhattan lost firefighters in the [[September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks]], the station with the greatest loss of firefighters was Engine Co. 54/Ladder Co. 4/Battalion 9 at 48th Street and Eighth Avenue, which lost 15 firefighters, an entire shift on duty.<ref>[http://abc7ny.com/archive/8349429/ "Hardest Hit Firehouse Still Recovering 10 Years Later] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160623173721/http://abc7ny.com/archive/8349429/ |date=June 23, 2016 }}, [[WABC-TV]], September 11, 2011. Accessed June 6, 2016. "No firehouse was hit harder than the one in Midtown Manhattan. Fifteen members of Engine 54, Ladder 4, Battalion 9 were killed."</ref> Given its proximity to Midtown, the station specializes in skyscraper fires and rescues. In 2007, it was the second-busiest firehouse in New York City, with 9,685 runs between the two companies.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fdnewyork.com/randw_07.asp |title=Runs and Workers โ 2007 |website=www.fdnewyork.com |access-date=February 18, 2009 |archive-date=December 5, 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081205232445/http://www.fdnewyork.com/randw_07.asp |url-status=live }}</ref> Its patch reads "Pride of Midtown" and "Never Missed a Performance". Memorials dot the station's exterior walls and a granite memorial is in a park to its north. Ladder 21, the "Pride of Hell's Kitchen", located on 38th Street between Ninth and Tenth Avenues, and stationed with Engine Co. 34, lost seven firefighters on September 11.<ref>Fertig, Beth. [http://www.wnyc.org/story/85579-firemen-on-september-11th/ "Firemen on September 11th"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160828181809/http://www.wnyc.org/story/85579-firemen-on-september-11th/ |date=August 28, 2016 }}, [[WNYC]], September 12, 2002. Accessed June 6, 2016. "But all seven members of Ladder Company 21 who raced downtown on the big truck that morning perished. None of the bodies was ever recovered."</ref> In addition, on September 11, Engine Co. 26 was temporarily stationed with Engine Co. 34/Ladder Co. 21 and lost many firefighters themselves. {{Clear}} ===Redevelopment and second wave of gentrification=== [[File:8th Avenue looking northeast from 42nd Street.jpg|thumb|upright|Looking north on 8th Avenue from 42nd Street]] Hell's Kitchen has become an increasingly upscale neighborhood of affluent young professionals as well as residents from the "old days",<ref>Berger, Joseph.[https://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/19/nyregion/19hell.html "Hell's Kitchen, Swept Out and Remodeled"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150731131659/http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/19/nyregion/19hell.html |date=July 31, 2015 }}, ''[[The New York Times]]'', March 19, 2006. Accessed December 1, 2016.</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.mercedeshouseny.com/blog/hells-kitchen-nycs-gentrified-yet-homey-neighborhood/ |title=Hell's Kitchen: NYC's gentrified, yet homey neighborhood |publisher=Mercedeshouseny.com |access-date=May 6, 2014 |archive-date=May 6, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140506172434/http://www.mercedeshouseny.com/blog/hells-kitchen-nycs-gentrified-yet-homey-neighborhood/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last=Critchlow |first=Katharine |url=https://www.newyork.com/articles/neighborhoods/hells-kitchen-44364/ |title=Hell's Kitchen โ April 29, 2013 |publisher=NewYork.com |date=April 29, 2013 |access-date=May 6, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140506181402/https://www.newyork.com/articles/neighborhoods/hells-kitchen-44364/ |archive-date=May 6, 2014 |url-status=dead}}</ref> with rents in the neighborhood having increased dramatically above the average in Manhattan.<ref>{{cite web |title=Manhattan Rental Market Report |url=http://www.mns.com/manhattan_rental_market_report#midtown-west |date=April 2014 |access-date=May 29, 2014 |archive-date=July 2, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140702160849/http://www.mns.com/manhattan_rental_market_report#midtown-west |url-status=live }}</ref> It has also acquired a large and diverse community as residents have moved north from [[Chelsea, Manhattan|Chelsea]]. [[Zoning in the United States|Zoning]] has long restricted the extension of [[Midtown Manhattan]]'s skyscraper development into Hell's Kitchen, at least north of 42nd Street.<ref>Joseph J. Varga, ''Hell's Kitchen and the Battle for Urban Space: Class Struggle and Progressive Reform in New York City, 1894โ1914.'' New York: Monthly Review Press, 2013.</ref> In 1989, the [[David Childs]]- and [[Frank Williams (architect)|Frank Williams]]-designed [[One Worldwide Plaza|Worldwide Plaza]] established a beachhead when it was built at the former [[Madison Square Garden (1925)|Madison Square Garden]] site, a full city block between 49th and 50th Streets and between Eighth and Ninth Avenues that was exempt from special district zoning rules. This project led a real-estate building boom on Eighth Avenue, including the [[Hearst Tower (Manhattan)|Hearst Tower]] at 56th Street and Eighth Avenue. An indication of how fast real estate prices rose in the neighborhood was a 2004 transaction involving the [[Howard Johnson's]] Motel at 52nd Street and Eighth Avenue. In June, Vikram Chatwal's Hampshire Hotel Group bought the motel and adjoining Studio Instrument Rental building for $9 million. In August, they sold the property to [[El-Ad Group|Elad Properties]] for about $43 million. Elad, which formerly owned the [[Plaza Hotel]], built The Link, a luxury 44-story building, at that location.<ref>{{cite web |title=Developments |url=https://www.eladgroup.com/NewDevelopments.htm |publisher=EL AD Group |access-date=25 July 2020 |archive-date=September 18, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200918104015/https://www.eladgroup.com/NewDevelopments.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> [[Silverstein Properties]] and Greenwood Gaming & Entertainment are bidding for a downstate New York casino license and hope to develop a resort and casino in the neighborhood if they secure a license. They have proposed The Avenir, which would be a resort with 1,000 hotel rooms, an eight story casino and a 1,000 seat performance venue. 100 affordable housing units would also be built.<ref>{{cite news |last=Short |first=Aaron |date=February 10, 2025 |url=https://www.cityandstateny.com/policy/2025/02/breaking-down-every-2025-new-york-casino-licenses-bid/402815/ |title=Breaking down every 2025 New York casino license bid |work=City & State New York |access-date=February 19, 2025}}</ref> ====Hudson Yards==== {{main article|Hudson Yards, Manhattan}} In 2003, the [[New York City Department of City Planning]] issued a master plan that envisioned the creation of {{cvt|40,000,000|ft2|m2}} of commercial and residential development, two corridors of open space.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Hudson Yards Master Plan: Preferred Direction |url=http://www1.nyc.gov/assets/planning/download/pdf/plans/hudson-yards/prefdir.pdf |date=February 2003 |publisher=New York City Department of City Planning |access-date=August 10, 2009 |archive-date=February 28, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170228022559/http://www1.nyc.gov/assets/planning/download/pdf/plans/hudson-yards/prefdir.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> Dubbed the Hudson Yards Master Plan, the area covered is bordered on the east by Seventh and Eighth Avenues, on the south by West 28th and 30th Streets, on the north by West 43rd Street, and on the west by [[Hudson River Park]] and the [[Hudson River]]. The City's plan was similar to a neighborhood plan produced by architect Meta Brunzema and environmental planner Daniel Gutman for the Hell's Kitchen Neighborhood Association (HKNA). The main concept of the HKNA plan was to allow major new development while protecting the existing residential core area between Ninth and Tenth avenues.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nyc.gov/html/mancb4/downloads/pdf/hkna_plan_executive_summary_(3).pdf |title=HKNA plan summary |access-date=August 23, 2017 |archive-date=February 8, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170208154051/http://www.nyc.gov/html/mancb4/downloads/pdf/hkna_plan_executive_summary_(3).pdf |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20160422042404/http://www.home.earthlink.net/~hkna2/ Full HKNA Plan]</ref> As plans developed, they included a mixed-use real estate development by [[Related Companies]] and [[Oxford Properties]] over the MTA's [[West Side Yard]];<ref name="engadget">{{cite web |url=https://www.engadget.com/2014/05/07/hudson-yards-smart-neighborhood/ |title=New York's next big neighborhood is its smartest |author=Volpe, Joseph |date=May 7, 2014 |work=[[Engadget]] |access-date=May 9, 2014 |archive-date=May 8, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140508005336/http://www.engadget.com/2014/05/07/hudson-yards-smart-neighborhood/ |url-status=live }}</ref> a renovation of the [[Javits Center|Javits Convention Center]];<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/08/nyregion/cuomo-announces-1-billion-expansion-for-javits-center.html |title=Cuomo Announces $1 Billion Expansion for Javits Center |last=Bagli |first=Charles V. |date=January 7, 2016 |work=The New York Times |access-date=January 22, 2020 |archive-date=July 13, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200713124338/https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/08/nyregion/cuomo-announces-1-billion-expansion-for-javits-center.html |url-status=live }}</ref> and the [[7 Subway Extension]] to the [[34th StreetโHudson Yards (IRT Flushing Line)|34th StreetโHudson Yards]] station at [[34th Street (Manhattan)|34th Street]] and [[Eleventh Avenue (Manhattan)|11th Avenue]], which opened on September 13, 2015.<ref name="nyt20150913" /><ref name="wsj20150913" /> The first phase of the Related project, completed in March 2019, comprises [[The Shops & Restaurants at Hudson Yards]], a public space centered around the [[Vessel (structure)|''Vessel'']] structure, [[The Shed (arts center)|the Shed]] arts center, and several skyscrapers.<ref>{{cite web |title=Highly-Anticipated Hudson Yards Development Officially Opens To The Public |website=CBS New York |date=March 15, 2019 |url=https://newyork.cbslocal.com/2019/03/15/hudson-yards-grand-opening/ |access-date=March 23, 2019 |archive-date=April 2, 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190402221701/https://newyork.cbslocal.com/2019/03/15/hudson-yards-grand-opening/ |url-status=live }}</ref> By the 2010s, the neighborhood had become home to young [[Wall Street]] financiers.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-08-03/wall-street-comes-to-hell-s-kitchen-with-ackman-s-office-project |title=Wall Street Comes to Hell's Kitchen With Ackman's Office Project |last=Levitt |first=David M. |date=August 3, 2018 |website=Bloomberg.com |access-date=December 27, 2019 |archive-date=April 16, 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190416011746/https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-08-03/wall-street-comes-to-hell-s-kitchen-with-ackman-s-office-project |url-status=live }}</ref>
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