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==Geography== The Sevillian historian [[Antonio Domínguez Ortiz]] wrote that: {{Blockquote|one must seek the essence of Andalusia in its geographic reality on the one hand, and on the other in the awareness of its inhabitants. From the geographic point of view, the whole of the southern lands is too vast and varied to be embraced as a single unit. In reality there are not two, but three Andalusias: the [[Sierra Morena]], the Valley [of the [[Guadalquivir]]] and the [Cordillera] [[Cordillera Penibética|Penibética]]<ref>{{cite book |last=Domínguez Ortiz |first=Antonio |title=La identidad andaluza |year=1976 |language=es |publisher=Universidad de Granada |location=Granada |quote=hay que buscar la esencia de Andalucía en su realidad geográfica, de una parte, y de otra, en la conciencia de sus habitantes. Desde el punto de vista geográfico, el conjunto de las tierras meridionales es demasiado amplio y variado para englobarlas a todas en una unidad. En realidad hay no dos, sino tres Andalucías: la Sierra Morena, el Valle y la Penibética}}</ref>}} ===Location=== Andalusia has a surface area of {{convert|87597|km2|sqmi}}, 17.3% of the territory of Spain. Andalusia alone is comparable in extent and in the variety of its terrain to any of several of the smaller European countries. To the east is the [[Mediterranean Sea]]; to the west [[Portugal]] and the [[Gulf of Cádiz]] ([[Atlantic Ocean]]); to the north the [[Sierra Morena]] constitutes the border with the [[Meseta Central]]; to the south, the [[self-governance|self-governing]]<ref>{{cite encyclopedia |title=Gibraltar |url=https://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/233245/Gibraltar |encyclopedia=[[Encyclopædia Britannica]] |access-date=18 August 2009 |quote=Gibraltar is an overseas territory of the United Kingdom and is self-governing in all matters but defence. |first=Vicente |last=Rodriguez |date=22 July 1998 |publisher=[[Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc.]] |archive-date=14 January 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240114130730/https://www.britannica.com/place/Gibraltar |url-status=live }}</ref> [[British overseas territory]] of [[Gibraltar]] and the [[Strait of Gibraltar]] separate it from [[Morocco]]. ===Climate=== [[File:Clima andalucía.png|thumb|325px|Locations of the principal Andalusian climate types.<ref name="CMA de la Junta de Andalucía">{{cite web |url=http://www.iberianature.com/regions/andalucia/climate-of-andalusia-andalucia/ |title=Climate of Andalusia |author=CMA de la Junta de Andalucía |publisher=Iberia Nature |access-date=10 December 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091028172826/http://www.iberianature.com/regions/andalucia/climate-of-andalusia-andalucia/ |archive-date=28 October 2009 |url-status=live}}</ref>]] [[File:Sierra de las Nieves.jpg|thumb|175px|left|Andalusian firs, [[Sierra de las Nieves]]]] Andalusia is home to the hottest and driest climates in Spain, with yearly average rainfall around {{convert|150|mm|in}} in [[Cabo de Gata National Park|Cabo de Gata]], as well as some of the wettest ones, with yearly average rainfall above {{convert|2000|mm|in}} in inland [[Cádiz (province)|Cádiz]].<ref>{{cite web |title=Valores climatológicos normales - Agencia Estatal de Meteorología - AEMET. Gobierno de España |url=http://www.aemet.es/es/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos |publisher=[[AEMET]] |access-date=24 March 2022 |language=es |archive-date=1 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210101180444/http://www.aemet.es/es/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos |url-status=live }}</ref> In the west, weather systems sweeping in from the Atlantic ensure that it is relatively wet and humid in the winter, with some areas receiving copious amounts. Contrary to what many people think, as a whole, the region enjoys above-average yearly rainfall in the context of Spain.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.iberianature.com/regions/andalucia/climate-of-andalusia-andalucia/ |title=Climate of Andalusia |website=www.iberianature.com |access-date=13 February 2017 |archive-date=28 October 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091028172826/http://www.iberianature.com/regions/andalucia/climate-of-andalusia-andalucia/ |url-status=live }}</ref> Andalusia sits at a latitude between 36° and 38° 44' N, in the warm-temperate region. In general, it experiences a [[hot-summer Mediterranean climate]], with dry summers influenced by the [[Azores High]], but subject to occasional torrential rains and extremely hot temperatures.<ref name="CMA de la Junta de Andalucía" /><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/site/web/menuitem.a5664a214f73c3df81d8899661525ea0/?vgnextoid=ad53b44325234010VgnVCM1000000624e50aRCRD&vgnextchannel=3259b19c7acf2010VgnVCM1000001625e50aRCRD&lr=lang_es |title=Los tipos climáticos en Andalucía |author=Junta de Andalucía |publisher=Consejería del Medio Ambiente |access-date=10 December 2009}}</ref> In the winter, the tropical anticyclones move south, allowing cold polar fronts to penetrate the region. Still, within Andalusia there is considerable climatic variety. From the extensive coastal plains one may pass to the valley of the Guadalquivir, barely above sea level, then to the highest altitudes in the Iberian peninsula in the peaks of the [[Sierra Nevada (Spain)|Sierra Nevada]]. In a mere {{cvt|50|km|mi}} one can pass from the subtropical coast of the province of Granada to the snowy peaks of [[Mulhacén]]. Andalusia also includes both the dry [[Tabernas Desert]] in the province of Almería and the [[Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park]] in the province of Cádiz, which experiences one of highest rainfall in Spain.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/averroes/html/adjuntos/2008/02/11/0004/altamontana.html |title=Ecosistemas naturales de Andalucía - Alta montaña |website=Junta de Andalucía |language=es |year=2008 |access-date=2 February 2009 |archive-date=25 June 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090625024646/http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/averroes/html/adjuntos/2008/02/11/0004/altamontana.html}} </ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://abodeinternational.com/weather-climate-andalusia/ |title=The type of climate in Andalusia |access-date=4 October 2008 |publisher=Consejería de Medio Ambiente (Junta de Andalucía) |language=en |archive-date=22 March 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180322204819/http://abodeinternational.com/weather-climate-andalusia/ |url-status=dead}}</ref><ref name="Meteorología">{{Cite web |last=Meteorología |first=Agencia Estatal de |title=Valores climatológicos normales - Agencia Estatal de Meteorología - AEMET. Gobierno de España |url=https://www.aemet.es/es/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos |access-date=1 May 2024 |website=www.aemet.es |language=es}}</ref> Annual rainfall in the Sierra de Grazalema has been measured as high as {{convert|4346|mm|in}} in 1963, the highest ever recorded for any location in Iberia.<ref name=rain>{{cite web |url=http://www.aemet.es/es/elclima/datosclimatologicos/efemerides_extremos |title=Valores extremos |access-date=4 October 2008 |author=AEMET (Agencia Estatal de Meteorología) |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081006000904/http://www.aemet.es/es/elclima/datosclimatologicos/efemerides_extremos |archive-date=6 October 2008 |url-status=dead}}</ref> Andalusia is also home to the driest place in [[Europe]], the [[Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park|Cabo de Gata]], with only {{convert|156|mm|in}} of rain per year.<ref name="DOC015">Capel Molina, J.J. (1995) ''Mapa pluviométrico de España Peninsular y Baleares (en el periodo internacional 1961-1990) Investigaciones Geográficas nº 13: 29-466ISSN 0213-4691'' [http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/fichero_articulo?codigo=111619&orden=68481 pdf] Idioma: español. Acceso: 3 July 2009.</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=21 May 2022 |title=Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park |url=https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/images/149857/cabo-de-gata-nijar-natural-park |access-date=10 February 2024 |website=earthobservatory.nasa.gov |language=en}}</ref> In general, as one goes from west to east, away from the Atlantic, there is less precipitation.<ref name=rain/> "Wet Andalusia" includes most of the highest points in the region, above all the Sierra de Grazalema but also the [[Serranía de Ronda]] in western Málaga. The valley of the Guadalquivir has moderate rainfall. The [[Tabernas Desert]] in Almería has less than {{convert|300|mm|in}} annually.<ref name="Meteorología"/> Much of "dry Andalusia" has more than 300 sunny days a year.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.bargainandalucia.dk/tvangssalg |title=300+ sunny days a year |access-date=12 February 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150728094728/http://www.bargainandalucia.dk/ |archive-date=28 July 2015}}</ref> The average temperature in Andalusia throughout the year is over {{convert|16|°C|°F}}. Averages in the cities range from {{convert|15.1|°C|°F}} in [[Baeza, Spain|Baeza]] to {{convert|19.2|°C|°F}} in [[Seville]]. However, a small region on the Mediterranean coast of [[Province of Almería|Almeria]] and [[Province of Granada|Granada]] provinces have average annual temperature over {{Convert|20|C|F}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Meteorología |first=Agencia Estatal de |title=Valores climatológicos normales - Agencia Estatal de Meteorología - AEMET. Gobierno de España |url=https://www.aemet.es/es/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos |access-date=19 March 2024 |website=www.aemet.es |language=es}}</ref> Much of the Guadalquivir valley and the Mediterranean coast has an average of about {{convert|18|°C|°F}}. The coldest month is January when [[Granada]] at the foot of the Sierra Nevada experiences an average temperature of {{convert|6.4|°C|°F}}. The hottest are July and August, with an average temperature of {{convert|28.5|°C|°F}} for Andalusia as a whole. [[Córdoba, Andalusia|Córdoba]] is the hottest provincial capital, followed by [[Seville]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.andalucia.org/datos-practicos/clima/?set_language=en/ |archive-url=http://arquivo.pt/wayback/20160517102632/http://www.andalucia.org/datos-practicos/clima/?set_language=en/ |url-status=dead |archive-date=17 May 2016 |title=Average temperature – Average water temperature – Hours of sunlight per year |author=Junta de Andalucía |publisher=Official Tourism Website of Andalucía |access-date=10 December 2009}}</ref> The Guadalquivir valley has experienced some of the highest temperatures recorded in Europe, with a maximum of {{convert|47.6|°C|°F}} recorded at [[La Rambla, Córdoba|La Rambla]], Córdoba (14 August 2021).<ref>{{Cite web |last=aemetblog |date=2 August 2022 |title=14 de agosto de 2021,se batió el récord de temperatura más alta registrada en España. |url=https://aemetblog.es/2022/08/02/14-de-agosto-de-2021se-batio-el-record-de-temperatura-mas-alta-registrada-en-espana/ |access-date=19 March 2024 |website=Aemetblog |language=es}}</ref> The mountains of Granada and Jaén have the coldest temperatures in southern Iberia, but do not reach continental extremes (and, indeed are surpassed by some mountains in northern Spain). In the cold snap of January 2005, [[Santiago de la Espada]] (Jaén) experienced a temperature of {{convert|-21|°C|°F}} and the [[ski]] resort at [[Sierra Nevada National Park (Spain)|Sierra Nevada National Park]]—the southernmost ski resort in Europe—dropped to {{convert|-18|°C|°F}}. Sierra Nevada Natural Park has Iberia's lowest average annual temperature, ({{convert|3.9|°C|°F|disp=or}} at Pradollano) and its peaks remain snowy practically year-round. {| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:60%; font-size:95%;" |+Average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for selected cities in Andalusia<ref name="Spanish Climate Normals or Averages">{{cite web |url=http://www.aemet.es/en/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos?k=and |title=Standard Climate Values, Andalucía |publisher=Aemet.es |access-date=2 March 2015}}</ref> |- !Location !Coldest month !April !Warmest month !October |- | [[Almería]] || {{convert|16.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|8.3|C|1}} || {{convert|24.1|C|1}}/ {{convert|15.3|C|1}} || {{convert|31.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|22.4|C|1}} || {{convert|24.5|C|1}}/ {{convert|16.3|C|1}} |- | [[Cádiz]] || {{convert|16.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|9.4|C|1}} || {{convert|19.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|13.7|C|1}} || {{convert|27.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|22.0|C|1}} || {{convert|23.4|C|1}}/ {{convert|17.3|C|1}} |- | [[Córdoba, Andalusia|Córdoba]] || {{convert|14.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|3.6|C|1}} || {{convert|22.8|C|1}}/ {{convert|9.3|C|1}} || {{convert|36.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|19.0|C|1}} || {{convert|25.1|C|1}}/ {{convert|13.0|C|1}} |- | [[Granada]] || {{convert|12.6|C|1}}/ {{convert|1.1|C|1}} || {{convert|19.5|C|1}}/ {{convert|6.8|C|1}} || {{convert|34.2|C|1}}/ {{convert|17.7|C|1}} || {{convert|22.6|C|1}}/ {{convert|10.1|C|1}} |- | [[Huelva]] || {{convert|16.2|C|1}}/ {{convert|5.9|C|1}} || {{convert|22.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|10.3|C|1}} || {{convert|32.7|C|1}}/ {{convert|18.9|C|1}} || {{convert|24.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|14.1|C|1}} |- | [[Jaén, Spain|Jaén]] || {{convert|12.1|C|1}}/ {{convert|5.1|C|1}} || {{convert|19.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|10.0|C|1}} || {{convert|33.7|C|1}}/ {{convert|21.4|C|1}} || {{convert|21.9|C|1}}/ {{convert|13.8|C|1}} |- | [[Jerez de la Frontera|Jerez]] || {{convert|16.2|C|1}}/ {{convert|5.2|C|1}} || {{convert|22.2|C|1}}/ {{convert|9.8|C|1}} || {{convert|33.5|C|1}}/ {{convert|18.7|C|1}} || {{convert|25.5|C|1}}/ {{convert|13.7|C|1}} |- | [[Málaga]] || {{convert|16.8|C|1}}/ {{convert|7.4|C|1}} || {{convert|21.4|C|1}}/ {{convert|11.1|C|1}} || {{convert|30.8|C|1}}/ {{convert|21.1|C|1}} || {{convert|24.1|C|1}}/ {{convert|15.0|C|1}} |- | [[Seville]] || {{convert|16.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|5.7|C|1}} || {{convert|23.4|C|1}}/ {{convert|11.1|C|1}} || {{convert|36.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|20.3|C|1}} || {{convert|26.0|C|1}}/ {{convert|14.4|C|1}} |- | [[Tarifa]] || {{convert|15.1|C|1}}/ {{convert|10.9|C|1}} || {{convert|17.3|C|1}}/ {{convert|13.0|C|1}} || {{convert|24.5|C|1}}/ {{convert|20.0|C|1}} || {{convert|20.6|C|1}}/ {{convert|16.7|C|1}} |} ===Terrain=== [[File:Relieve andalucia.png|thumb|350px|Locations of the principal features of the Andalusian terrain.]] [[File:Mulhacen north face.JPG|175px|left|thumb|[[Mulhacén]] peak is the highest point of continental Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains and the Alps. It is part of the [[Sierra Nevada (Spain)|Sierra Nevada]] range.]] Mountain ranges affect climate, the network of rivers, soils and their erosion, bioregions, and even human economies insofar as they rely on natural resources.<ref>{{cite book |last=Moreira |first=J.M. |chapter=Las grandes unidades del relieve andaluz |title=Geografía de Andalucía (Coor. López Antonio) |year=2003 |publisher=Ariel Geografía |location=Barcelona |language=es |isbn=84-344-3476-8}}</ref> The Andalusian terrain offers a range of altitudes and slopes. Andalusia has the Iberian peninsula's highest mountains and nearly 15 percent of its terrain over {{convert|1000|m|ft}}. The picture is similar for areas under {{convert|100|m|ft}} (with the Baetic Depression), and for the variety of slopes. The Atlantic coast is overwhelmingly beach and gradually sloping coasts; the Mediterranean coast has many cliffs, above all in the Malagan [[Axarquía]] and in Granada and Almería.<ref>{{cite book |last=Ojeda |first=J. |chapter=espn |title=Geografía de Andalucía (Coor. López Antonio) |year=2003 |publisher=Ariel Geografía |location=Barcelona |language=es |isbn=84-344-3476-8}}</ref> This asymmetry divides the region naturally into {{ill|Upper Andalusia|es|Alta Andalucía}} (two mountainous areas) and {{ill|Lower Andalusia|es|Baja Andalucía}} (the broad basin of the Guadalquivir).<ref name="fisicoambiental">{{cite journal |last=López |first=Antonio |title=Los grandes temas del sistema físico-ambiental de Andalucía y sus implicaciones humanas |year=2002 |journal=Revista de estudios regionales: XII Jornadas de Estudios Andaluces. |number=63 |issn=0213-7585 |pages=17–63 |url=http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=268326 |language=es}}</ref> The [[Sierra Morena]] separates Andalusia from the plains of Extremadura and Castile–La Mancha on Spain's [[Meseta Central]]. Although sparsely populated, this is not a particularly high range, and its highest point, the {{convert|1323|m|ft|adj=on}} peak of La [[Bañuela]] in the [[Sierra Madrona]], lies outside of Andalusia. Within the Sierra Morena, the [[canyon|gorge]] of [[Despeñaperros]] forms a natural frontier between Castile and Andalusia. The [[Baetic Cordillera]] consists of the parallel mountain ranges of the [[Cordillera Penibética]] near the Mediterranean coast and the [[Cordillera Subbética]] inland, separated by the [[Surco Intrabético]]. The Cordillera Subbética is quite discontinuous, offering many passes that facilitate transportation, but the Penibético forms a strong barrier between the Mediterranean coast and the interior.<ref>"Bases para la Ordenación del Territorio de Andalucía", 1990, p. 126, in Spanish.</ref> The Sierra Nevada, part of the Cordillera Penibética in the province of Granada, has the highest peaks in Iberia: El [[Mulhacén]] at {{convert|3478|m|ft}} and El [[Veleta (Sierra Nevada)|Veleta]] at {{convert|3392|m|ft}}. Lower Andalusia, the [[Baetic Depression]], the basin of the Guadalquivir, lies between these two mountainous areas. It is a nearly flat territory, open to the [[Gulf of Cádiz]] in the southwest. Throughout history, this has been the most populous part of Andalusia. ===Hydrography=== [[File:Ríos de Andalucía.png|thumb|325px|Rivers and basins of Andalusia.]] Andalusia has rivers that flow into both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Flowing to the Atlantic are the [[Guadiana]], [[Odiel]]-[[Río Tinto|Tinto]], [[Guadalquivir]], [[Guadalete]], and [[Barbate (river)|Barbate]]. Flowing to the Mediterranean are the [[Guadiaro (river)|Guadiaro]], [[Guadalhorce]], [[Guadalmedina]], [[Guadalfeo]], [[Andarax]] (also known as the Almería) and [[Almanzora (river)|Almanzora]]. Of these, the [[Guadalquivir]] is the longest in Andalusia and fifth longest on the Iberian peninsula, at {{convert|657|km|mi}}.<ref>{{cite book |last=Del Moral |first=L. |chapter=El agua en Andalucía |title=Geografía de Andalucía (Coor. López Antonio) |year=2003 |publisher=Ariel Geografía |location=Barcelona |language=es |isbn=84-344-3476-8}}</ref> [[File:Córdoba aerial 9.jpg|thumb|The Guadalquivir as it passes through Córdoba.]] The rivers of the Atlantic basin are characteristically long, run through mostly flat terrain, and have broad river valleys. As a result, at their mouths are [[estuary|estuaries]] and [[wetland]]s, such as the marshes of [[Doñana National Park|Doñana]] in the delta of the Guadalquivir, and [[wetland]]s of the Odiel. In contrast, the rivers of the Mediterranean Basin are shorter, more seasonal, and make a precipitous descent from the mountains of the Baetic Cordillera. Their estuaries are small, and their valleys are less suitable for agriculture. Also, being in the [[rain shadow]] of the Baetic Cordillera means that they receive a lesser volume of water.<ref name="fisicoambiental" /> The following hydrographic basins can be distinguished in Andalusia. On the Atlantic side are the Guadalquivir basin; the Andalusian Atlantic Basin with the sub-basins Guadalete-Barbate and Tinto-Odiel; and the Guadiana basin. On the Mediterranean side is the Andalusian Mediterranean Basin and the upper portion of the [[Segura basin|basin of the Segura]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/agenciadelagua/portalweb/sites/aaa/portal/index.jsp?lang=es&perfil=org&opcion=listadoTematico&tema=/Agencia_Andaluza_Del_Agua/&apartado=organizacion&desplegar=/Agencia_Andaluza_Del_Agua/ |title=La nueva administración del agua en Andalucía |access-date=4 October 2008 |publisher=Agencia Andaluza del Agua (Consejería de Medio Ambiente) |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081212204748/http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/agenciadelagua/portalweb/sites/aaa/portal/index.jsp?lang=es |archive-date=12 December 2008}}</ref> ===Soils=== The soils of Andalusia can be divided into three large areas: the [[Sierra Morena]], [[Cordillera Subbética]], and the [[Baetic Depression]] and the [[Surco Intrabético]].<ref>{{cite journal |last=Moreira |first=J.M. |title=Suelos y degradación edáfica |journal=Carel: Carmona: Revista de estudios locales |number=3 |issn=1696-4284 |pages=971–986 |language=es |url=http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/fichero_articulo?codigo=2328574&orden=84885}}</ref> The Sierra Morena, due to its morphology and the acidic content of its rocks, developed principally relatively poor, shallow soils, suitable only for forests. In the valleys and in some areas where [[limestone]] is present, deeper soils allowed farming of cereals suitable for livestock. The more complicated morphology of the Baetic Cordillera makes it more heterogeneous, with the most heterogeneous soils in Andalusia. Very roughly, in contrast to the Sierra Morena, a predominance of [[base (chemistry)|basic]] (alkaline) materials in the Cordillera Subbética, combined with a hilly landscape, generates deeper soils with greater agricultural capacity, suitable to the cultivation of olives.<ref>{{cite book |author=Consejería de Agricultura y Pesca |chapter=Suelos |title=Atlas Agrario y Pesquero de Andalucía |year=1992 |publisher=Junta de Andalucía |language=es}}</ref> Finally, the Baetic Depression and the Surco Intrabético have deep, rich soils, with great agricultural capacity. In particular, the [[alluvium|alluvial]] soils of the [[Guadalquivir]] valley and plain of [[Granada]] have a [[loam]]y texture and are particularly suitable for intensive irrigated crops.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/web/Bloques_Tematicos/Estado_Y_Calidad_De_Los_Recursos_Naturales/Suelo/Criterios_pdf/Tipologia.pdf |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20221009/http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/web/Bloques_Tematicos/Estado_Y_Calidad_De_Los_Recursos_Naturales/Suelo/Criterios_pdf/Tipologia.pdf |archive-date=9 October 2022 |url-status=live |title=Tipología de los suelos en la comunidad andaluza |access-date=21 July 2008 |author=Consejería de Medio Ambiente de Andalucía |language=es}}</ref> In the hilly areas of the countryside, there is a double dynamic: the depressions have filled with older lime-rich material, developing the deep, rich, dark [[clay]] soils the Spanish call ''[[bujeo]]'', or ''tierras negras andaluzas'', excellent for dryland farming. In other zones, the whiter ''albariza'' provides an excellent soil for [[vineyard]]s.<ref>{{cite journal |last=Perea |author2=González, P. |title=Origen, clasificación y caracterización de los suelos de la Campiña de Carmona |year=2005 |journal=Carel: Carmona: Revista de estudios locales |number=3 |issn=1696-4284 |pages=971–986 |language=es |url=http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/fichero_articulo?codigo=2328574&orden=84885}}</ref> Despite their marginal quality, the poorly consolidated soils of the sandy coastline of Huelva and Almería have been successfully used in recent decades for hothouse cultivation under clear plastic of strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and other fruits. ===Flora=== [[File:Vegetacion en andalucia.png|thumb|325px|[[Phytochorion|Floristic provinces]] of Andalusia]] Biogeographically, Andalusia forms part of the Western Mediterranean subregion of the [[Mediterranean Basin]], which falls within the [[Boreal Kingdom]]. Five [[Phytochorion|floristic provinces]] lie, in whole or in part, within Andalusia: along much of the Atlantic coast, the Lusitanian-Andalusian littoral or Andalusian Atlantic littoral; in the north, the southern portion of the Luso-Extremaduran floristic province; covering roughly half of the region, the Baetic floristic province; and in the extreme east, the Almerian portion of the Almerian-Murcian floristic province and (coinciding roughly with the upper Segura basin) a small portion of the Castilian-Maestrazgan-Manchegan floristic province. These names derive primarily from past or present political geography: "Luso" and "Lusitanian" from [[Lusitania]], one of three [[Roman province]]s in Iberia, most of the others from present-day Spanish provinces, and [[Maestrazgo]] being a historical region of northern [[Valencian Community|Valencia]]. [[File:Rododendron.jpg|thumb|left|Oaks, rhododendrons and ferns in the [[Los Alcornocales Natural Park]].]] In broad terms, the typical vegetation of Andalusia is [[Mediterranean forests, woodlands, and scrub|Mediterranean woodland]], characterized by [[leaf]]y [[Xerophile|xerophilic]] [[perennial plant|perennials]], adapted to the long, dry summers. The dominant species of the [[climax community]] is the holly oak (''[[Quercus ilex]]''). Also abundant are cork oak (''[[Quercus suber]]''), various [[pine]]s, and Spanish fir (''[[Abies pinsapo]]''). Due to cultivation, [[olive]] (''Olea europaea'') and [[almond]] (''Prunus dulcis'') trees also abound. The dominant [[understory]] is composed of thorny and aromatic woody species, such as [[rosemary]] (''Rosmarinus officinalis''), [[thyme]] (''Thymus''), and ''[[Cistus]]''. In the wettest areas with [[Soil pH|acidic soils]], the most abundant species are the oak and cork oak, and the cultivated ''[[Eucalyptus]]''. In the woodlands, leafy [[hardwood]]s of genus ''[[Populus]]'' (poplars, aspens, cottonwoods) and ''[[Ulmus]]'' (elms) are also abundant; poplars are cultivated in the plains of Granada.<ref>{{cite book |last=Ibarra |first=P. |chapter=Las formaciones vegetales de Andalucía |title=Geografía de Andalucía (Coor. López Antonio) |year=2003 |publisher=Ariel Geografía |location=Barcelona |language=es |isbn=84-344-3476-8}}</ref> The Andalusian woodlands have been much altered by human settlement, the use of nearly all of the best land for farming, and frequent [[wildfire]]s. The degraded forests become shrubby and combustible [[garrigue]]. Extensive areas have been planted with non-[[Climax species|climax]] trees such as pines. There is now a clear conservation policy for the remaining forests, which survive almost exclusively in the mountains. ===Fauna=== [[File:Linces12.jpg|thumb|The [[Iberian lynx]] (''Lynx pardinus'')]] The [[biodiversity]] of Andalusia extends to its fauna as well. More than 400 of the 630 vertebrate species extant in Spain can be found in Andalusia. Spanning the Mediterranean and Atlantic basins, and adjacent to the Strait of Gibraltar, Andalusia is on the migratory route of many of the numerous flocks of birds that travel annually from Europe to Africa and back.<ref> {{cite book |last=Rubio |first=J.M. |chapter=La fauna andaluza |title=Geografía de Andalucía (Coor. López Antonio) |year=2003 |publisher=Ariel Geografía |location=Barcelona |language=es |isbn=84-344-3476-8}}</ref> The Andalusian wetlands host a rich variety of birds. Some are of African origin, such as the [[red-knobbed coot]] (''Fulica cristata''), the [[purple swamphen]] (''Porphyrio porphyrio''), and the [[greater flamingo]] (''Phoenicopterus roseus''). Others originate in Northern Europe, such as the [[greylag goose]] (''Anser anser''). [[Bird of prey|Birds of prey]] (raptors) include the [[Spanish imperial eagle]] (''Aquila adalberti''), the [[griffon vulture]] (''Gyps fulvus''), and both the [[Black kite|black]] and [[red kite]] (''Milvus migrans'' and ''Milvus milvus''). [[File:Andalusierhengst 93c.jpg|upright|left|thumb|[[Andalusian horse]]]] Among the [[herbivore]]s, are several [[deer]] (Cervidae) species, notably the [[fallow deer]] (''Dama dama'') and [[roe deer]] (''Capreolus capreolus''); the [[European mouflon]] (''Ovis aries musimon''), a feral sheep; and the [[Spanish ibex]] (''Capra pyrenaica'', which despite its scientific name is no longer found in the [[Pyrenees]]). The Spanish ibex has recently been losing ground to the [[Barbary sheep]] (''Ammotragus lervia''), an [[invasive species]] from Africa, introduced for hunting in the 1970s. Among the small herbivores are rabbits—especially the [[European rabbit]] (''Oryctolagus cuniculus'')—which form the most important part of the diet of the carnivorous species of the Mediterranean woodlands. The large [[carnivore]]s such as the [[Iberian wolf]] (''Canis lupus signatus'') and the [[Iberian lynx]] (''Lynx pardinus'') are quite threatened, and are limited to the Sierra de Andújar, inside of Sierra Morena, Doñana and Despeñaperros. Stocks of the [[wild boar]] (''Sus scrofa''), on the other hand, have been well preserved because they are popular with hunters. More abundant and in varied situations of conservation are such smaller carnivores as [[European otter|otter]]s, dogs, foxes, the [[European badger]] (''Meles meles''), the [[European polecat]] (''Mustela putorius''), the [[least weasel]] (''Mustela nivalis''), the [[European wildcat]] (''Felis silvestris''), the [[common genet]] (''Genetta genetta''), and the [[Egyptian mongoose]] (''Herpestes ichneumon'').<ref> {{cite web |url=http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/contenidoExterno/Pub_aula_verde/aulaverde31/patrimv.html |title=Patrimonio vivo: la fauna andaluza |access-date=4 October 2008 |publisher=Consejería de Medio Ambiente (Junta de Andalucía) |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090606125530/http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/contenidoExterno/Pub_aula_verde/aulaverde31/patrimv.html |archive-date=6 June 2009}}</ref> Other notable species are ''[[Acherontia atropos]]'' (a variety of [[death's-head hawkmoth]]), ''[[Vipera latasti]]'' (a [[venomous snake]]), and the endemic (and endangered) fish ''[[Aphanius baeticus]]''. ===Protected areas=== [[File:Andalucía parques.png|thumb|325px|[[National park]]s and [[Natural park (Spain)|natural parks]] in Andalusia.]] Andalusia has many unique ecosystems. In order to preserve these areas in a manner compatible with both conservation and economic exploitation, many of the most representative ecosystems have been given protected status.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cma.junta-andalucia.es/medioambiente/site/web/menuitem.48ed6f0384107256b935619561525ea0/?vgnextoid=ab39185968f04010VgnVCM1000001625e50aRCRD&vgnextchannel=3259b19c7acf2010VgnVCM1000001625e50aRCRD&lr=lang_es |title=Espacios Protegidos |access-date=8 September 2008 |author=Consejería de Medio Ambiente (Junta de Andalucía)}}{{dead link|date=July 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} </ref><ref>{{cite book |last=Mulero |first=A. |chapter=Los espacios protegidos en Andalucía |title=Geografía de Andalucía (Coor. López Antonio) |year=2003 |publisher=Ariel Geografía |location=Barcelona |language=es |isbn=84-344-3476-8}}</ref> The various levels of protection are encompassed within the Network of Protected Natural Spaces of Andalusia (Red de Espacios Naturales Protegidos de Andalucía, RENPA) which integrates all protected natural spaces located in Andalusia, whether they are protected at the level of the local community, the autonomous community of Andalusia, the Spanish state, or by international conventions. RENPA consists of 150 protected spaces, consisting of two [[List of national parks of Spain|national parks]], 24 [[natural park (Spain)|natural parks]], 21 periurban parks (on the fringes of cities or towns), 32 natural sites, two protected countrysides, 37 natural monuments, 28 nature reserves, and four concerted nature reserves (in which a government agency coordinates with the owner of the property for its management), all part of the [[European Union]]'s [[Natura 2000]] network. Under the international ambit are the nine [[Man and Biosphere Reserve Programme|Biosphere Reserves]], 20 [[Ramsar Convention|Ramsar]] wetland sites, four [[Specially Protected Areas of Mediterranean Importance]] and two [[UNESCO]] [[Geopark]]s.<ref name="renpa">{{cite web |url=http://www.cma.junta-andalucia.es/medioambiente/site/web/menuitem.a5664a214f73c3df81d8899661525ea0/?vgnextoid=0cbb7abc83414010VgnVCM1000000624e50aRCRD&vgnextchannel=3259b19c7acf2010VgnVCM1000001625e50aRCRD&lr=lang_es |title=La RENPA – Red de Espacios Naturales Protegidos de Andalucía |access-date=8 September 2008 |author=Consejería de Medio Ambiente (Junta de Andalucía)}}{{dead link|date=July 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> In total, nearly 20 percent of the territory of Andalusia lies in one of these protected areas, which constitute roughly 30 percent of the protected territory of Spain.<ref name="renpa" /> Among these many spaces, some of the most notable are the [[Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park]], Spain's largest natural park and the second largest in Europe, the [[Sierra Nevada National Park (Spain)|Sierra Nevada National Park]], [[Doñana National Park|Doñana National Park and Natural Park]], the [[Tabernas Desert]], and the [[Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park]], the largest terrestrial-maritime reserve in the European Western Mediterranean Sea.
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