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====Colours and patterns==== Under feudal [[sumptuary laws]], colours were restricted by class; for instance, [[indigo]]-dyed clothing was allowed for all classes, and was commonly seen in hand-dyed cotton, linen or hemp {{transliteration|ja|[[kasuri]]}} fabrics, but other dyes, such as reds and purples, were forbidden to those below a certain class. Sometimes, for some classes, designs were restricted to below the belt, to the bottoms of the sleeves (for {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}) or to along the hem ({{transliteration|ja|suso-moyo}}); sometimes they were banned altogether,<ref name="mochi_furisode"/> and were transferred to the collar of the underkimono,<ref name="mochi_tomosode"/> or the inside of the hem, where only the faintest glimpse would be intermittently visible. This type of subtle ostentation became an aesthetic known as {{transliteration|ja|[[Iki (aesthetics)|iki]]}}, and outlasted the sumptuary laws.<ref name="mochi_furisode"/> Modern-day rules of formality, however, still echo clothing distinctions typically employed by the uppermost samurai classes.<ref name="mochi_furisode"/> Aspects of men's kimono still follow this extreme of {{transliteration|ja|iki}}. Bright, elaborate decoration is used on the lining of the {{transliteration|ja|haori}} (jacket), and on men's {{transliteration|ja|juban}} (underkimono), which is not worn as an outer layer outside the home, and so only shows at the neck and inside the sleeves. Women's {{transliteration|ja|juban}} were once bright and boldly-patterned (and were often kimono too damaged to use as an outer layer, repurposed), but are now typically muted pastel shades.<ref name=mochi_juban/><ref name="mochi_komon"/> The outside of men's garments tended towards subtle patterns and colours even after the sumptuary laws lifted, with blues and blacks predominating, but designers later came to use browns, greens, purples, and other colours in increasingly bold patterns. Older people generally wear more subtle patterns, and younger people brighter, bolder ones.
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