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==== Romanticism ==== [[File:Russia, 19th century - Earring - 1916.546.1 - Cleveland Museum of Art.jpg|thumb|upright|Russian earring; 19th century; silver, enamel and red glass beads; overall: {{convert|6.4x2.6|cm}}; [[Cleveland Museum of Art]] ([[Cleveland]])]] Starting in the late 18th century, [[Romanticism]] had a profound impact on the development of western jewellery. Perhaps the most significant influences were the public's fascination with the treasures being discovered through the birth of modern [[archaeology]] and a fascination with Medieval and Renaissance art. Changing social conditions and the onset of the [[Industrial Revolution]] also led to growth of a middle class that wanted and could afford jewellery. As a result, the use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, and stone substitutes led to the development of paste or [[costume jewellery]]. Distinguished goldsmiths continued to flourish, however, as wealthier patrons sought to ensure that what they wore still stood apart from the jewellery of the masses, not only through use of precious metals and stones but also though superior artistic and technical work. One such artist was the French goldsmith [[François-Désiré Froment-Meurice]]. A category unique to this period and quite appropriate to the philosophy of romanticism was mourning jewellery. It originated in England, where [[Queen Victoria]] was often seen wearing [[Jet (lignite)|jet]] jewellery after the death of [[Albert, Prince Consort|Prince Albert]], and it allowed the wearer to continue wearing jewellery while expressing a state of mourning at the death of a loved one.<ref name="Farndon 2001" /> In the United States, this period saw the founding in 1837 of [[Tiffany & Co.]] by [[Charles Lewis Tiffany]]. Tiffany's put the United States on the world map in terms of jewellery and gained fame creating dazzling commissions for people such as the wife of [[Abraham Lincoln]]. Later, it would gain popular notoriety as the setting of the film ''[[Breakfast at Tiffany's (film)|Breakfast at Tiffany's]]''. In France, [[Pierre Cartier (jeweler)|Pierre Cartier]] founded [[Cartier SA]] in 1847, while 1884 saw the founding of [[Bulgari]] in Italy. The modern production studio had been born and was a step away from the former dominance of individual craftsmen and [[patronage]]. This period also saw the first major collaboration between East and West. Collaboration in [[Pforzheim]] between German and Japanese artists led to [[Shakudō]] plaques set into [[Filigree]] frames being created by the Stoeffler firm in 1885.<ref>[[Ursula Ilse-Neuman|Ilse-Neuman, Ursula]]. Book review ''Schmuck/Jewellery 1840–1940: Highlights from the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim.'' ''Metalsmith''. Fall2006, Vol. 26 Issue 3, pp. 12–13</ref> Perhaps the grand finalé – and an appropriate transition to the following period – were the masterful creations of the Russian artist [[Peter Carl Fabergé]], working for the Imperial Russian court, whose [[Fabergé egg]]s and jewellery pieces are still considered as the epitome of the goldsmith's art.
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