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=== Style icon === [[File:President and Mrs Kennedy deplane from Air Force One (3083217259) (cropped).jpg|right|upright|thumb|Kennedy wearing [[Pink Chanel suit of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy|her pink Chanel suit]]]] Jacqueline Kennedy became a global fashion icon during her husband's presidency. After the 1960 election, she commissioned French-born American fashion designer and Kennedy family friend [[Oleg Cassini]] to create an original wardrobe for her appearances as First Lady. From 1961 to 1963, Cassini dressed her in many of her ensembles, including her Inauguration Day fawn coat and Inaugural gala gown, as well as many outfits for her visits to Europe, India, and Pakistan. In 1961, Kennedy spent $45,446 more on fashion than the $100,000 annual salary her husband earned as president.<ref name="fashion"/> Kennedy preferred French [[Haute couture|couture]], particularly the work of [[Coco Chanel|Chanel]], [[Cristóbal Balenciaga|Balenciaga]], and [[Hubert de Givenchy|Givenchy]], but was aware that in her role as first lady, she would be expected to wear American designers' work.<ref name=bowles>{{cite book |last1=Bowles |first1=Hamish |last2=John F. Kennedy Library and Museum|author-link1=Hamish Bowles |title=Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years : Selections from the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum |date=2001 |publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art |isbn=978-0-87099-981-9 |pages=28–29 |url={{Google books|f_3NzYT79dIC|page=PA29|keywords=|text=|plainurl=yes}}}}</ref> After noticing that her taste for Paris fashion was being criticized in the press, she wrote to the fashion editor [[Diana Vreeland]] to ask for suitable American designers, particularly those who could reproduce the Paris look.<ref name=bowles/> After considering the letter, which expressed her dislike of prints and her preference for "terribly simple, covered-up clothes," Vreeland recommended [[Norman Norell]], who was considered America's first designer and known for his high-end simplicity and fine quality work. She also suggested [[Ben Zuckerman]], another highly regarded tailor who regularly offered re-interpretations of Paris couture, and the [[Sportswear (fashion)|sportswear]] designer Stella Sloat, who occasionally offered Givenchy copies.<ref name=bowles/> Kennedy's first choice for her Inauguration Day coat was originally a purple wool Zuckerman model that was based on a [[Pierre Cardin]] design, but she instead settled on a fawn Cassini coat and wore the Zuckerman for a tour of the [[White House]] with Mamie Eisenhower.<ref name=bowles/> In her role as first lady, Kennedy preferred to wear clean-cut suits with a skirt hem down to middle of the knee, three-quarter sleeves on notch-collar jackets, sleeveless [[A-line (clothing)|A-line]] dresses, [[evening glove|above-the-elbow gloves]], low-heel pumps, and [[pillbox hat]]s.<ref name="fashion">{{cite web|title=Return of the Jackie Look – Sort of Fashion from A-Line Dresses to Fitted Jackets |work = [[Newsweek]] |url=http://www.newsweek.com/1994/08/28/return-of-the-jackie-look-sort-of-fashion-from-a-line-dresses-to-fitted-jackets.html |date=August 28, 1994}}</ref> Dubbed the "Jackie" look, these clothing items rapidly became fashion trends in the Western world. More than any other First Lady, her style was copied by commercial manufacturers and a large segment of young women.<ref name="FirstLadies" /> Her influential [[bouffant]] hairstyle, described as a "grown-up exaggeration of little girls' hair," was created by [[Mr. Kenneth]], who worked for her from 1954 until 1986.<ref name=vf>{{cite magazine|last=Collins|first=Amy Fine|title=It had to be Kenneth|url=https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2003/06/kenneth-battelle-hairdresser-jackie-kennedy|access-date=December 3, 2012|magazine=Vanity Fair|date=June 1, 2003|archive-date=April 21, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210421151645/https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2003/06/kenneth-battelle-hairdresser-jackie-kennedy|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>Wong, pp. 151–154</ref> Her tastes in eyewear were also influential, the most famous of which were the bespoke pairs designed for her by French designer, François Pinton. The coinage 'Jackie O glasses' is still used today to refer to this style of oversized, oval-lensed sunglasses.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Jackie O Sunglasses - How She Changed Fashion History |url=https://www.mouqy.com/blog/jackie-o-sunglasses/ |access-date=August 16, 2022 |website=Mouqy Eyewear |archive-date=August 16, 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220816081306/https://www.mouqy.com/blog/jackie-o-sunglasses/ |url-status=live }}</ref> After leaving the White House, Kennedy underwent a style change. Her new looks consisted of wide-leg [[pantsuit]]s, silk [[Hermès]] headscarves, and large, round, dark sunglasses.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Jacqueline Kennedy's Style Changes After The White House |url=https://refermate.com/blog/jacqueline-kennedy-s-style-changes-after-the-white-house/ |access-date=September 5, 2022 |website=Refermate }}</ref> She began wearing [[jeans]] in public as part of a casualization of her look.<ref name="LIFE">{{cite magazine |title = Jackie Kennedy: Post-Camelot Style |magazine = [[Life (magazine)|Life]] |url = http://www.life.com/image/first/in-gallery/31382/jackie-kennedy-postcamelot-style |access-date = October 9, 2009 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20090802091821/http://www.life.com/image/first/in-gallery/31382/jackie-kennedy-postcamelot-style |archive-date = August 2, 2009 |url-status = dead }}</ref> [[File:Jacqueline Kennedy after State Dinner, 22 May 1962.jpg|right|thumb|upright|Kennedy at a [[State dinner]] on May 22, 1962]] Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis acquired a large collection of jewelry throughout her lifetime. Her triple-strand [[Pearl#Pearls in jewelry|pearl necklace]], designed by American jeweler [[Kenneth Jay Lane]], became her signature piece of jewelry during her time as first lady in the White House. Often referred to as the "berry brooch", the two-fruit cluster brooch of strawberries made of rubies with stems and leaves of diamonds, designed by French jeweler [[Jean Schlumberger (jewelry designer)|Jean Schlumberger]] for [[Tiffany & Co.]], was personally selected and given to her by her husband several days prior to his inauguration in January 1961.<ref>{{cite web|title=Treasures of the Kennedy Library |url=http://www.jfklibrary.org/NR/rdonlyres/5CE1EDAD-4E84-4DE6-AE2A-E01C47655B32/22759/TreasuresExhibit.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071029153313/http://www.jfklibrary.org/NR/rdonlyres/5CE1EDAD-4E84-4DE6-AE2A-E01C47655B32/22759/TreasuresExhibit.pdf |archive-date=October 29, 2007 }}</ref> She wore Schlumberger's gold and enamel bracelets so frequently in the early and mid-1960s that the press called them "Jackie bracelets"; she also favored his white enamel and gold "banana" earrings. Kennedy wore jewelry designed by [[Van Cleef & Arpels]] throughout the 1950s,<ref name="jackiesjewelry.com">{{cite web|title=The Jacqueline Kennedy Collection by Camrose & Kross|url=http://jackiesjewelry.com|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130312140801/http://jackiesjewelry.com/|archive-date=March 12, 2013|access-date=August 16, 2020|url-status=live}}</ref> 1960s<ref name="jackiesjewelry.com" /> and 1970s; her sentimental favorite was the Van Cleef & Arpels wedding ring given to her by President Kennedy. Kennedy, a Catholic, was known for wearing a [[mantilla]] at Mass and in the presence of the Pope.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://auction.universityarchives.com/auction-lot/jacqueline-kennedys-black-lace-mantilla-with-impe_10F4EA7BFD|website=University Archives|title=Jacqueline Kennedy's Black Lace Mantilla With Impeccable Provenance|date=June 10, 2020|accessdate=June 9, 2021|archive-date=June 9, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210609115028/https://auction.universityarchives.com/auction-lot/jacqueline-kennedys-black-lace-mantilla-with-impe_10F4EA7BFD|url-status=live}}</ref> [[Mary Tyler Moore]]'s ''[[The Dick Van Dyke Show|Dick Van Dyke Show]]'' character Laura Petrie, who symbolized the "feel-good nature" of the Kennedy White House, often dressed like Kennedy.<ref>{{cite book|title=The Sixties Chronicles|first=David|last=Farber|page=153|publisher=Publications International Ltd.|isbn=1-4127-1009-X|date=2004}}</ref> Kennedy was named to the [[International Best Dressed List]] Hall of Fame in 1965.<ref>{{Cite magazine|url=https://www.vanityfair.com/culture/bestdressed/bestdressed_women?currentPage=1 |title=The International Best Dressed List: The International Hall of Fame: Women |magazine=Vanity Fair |year=1965 |access-date=February 15, 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130712215415/http://www.vanityfair.com/style/the-international-best-dressed-list/hall-of-fame-women |archive-date=July 12, 2013 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>Lambert and Zilkha, pp. 64–69, 90.</ref> Many of her signature clothes are preserved at the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum; pieces from the collection were exhibited at the [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] in New York in 2001. Titled "Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years", the exhibition focused on her time as a first lady.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2000/jacqueline-kennedy-the-white-house-years|title=JACQUELINE KENNEDY: THE WHITE HOUSE YEARS|date=November 14, 2000|publisher=[[The Metropolitan Museum of Art]]|access-date=April 11, 2016|archive-date=April 19, 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160419212824/http://metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2000/jacqueline-kennedy-the-white-house-years|url-status=live}}</ref> In 2012, ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]'' magazine included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis on its All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons list.<ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2110513_2110627_2110761,00.html|title=All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons: Princess Diana|newspaper=Time|date=April 2, 2012|access-date=February 1, 2017|first=William|last=Lee Adams|archive-date=November 28, 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161128093215/http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2110513_2110627_2110761,00.html|url-status=live}}</ref> In 2016, ''[[Forbes]]'' included her on the list "10 Fashion Icons and the Trends They Made Famous".<ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/sboyd/2016/03/14/10-fashion-icons-and-the-trends-they-made-famous/|title=10 Fashion Icons and the Trends They Made Famous|first=Sara|last=Boyd|magazine=Forbes|date=March 14, 2016|access-date=May 10, 2017|archive-date=February 2, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220202095256/https://www.forbes.com/sites/sboyd/2016/03/14/10-fashion-icons-and-the-trends-they-made-famous/|url-status=live}}</ref> {{clear}}<!-- The clr tag prevents the picture from running into the next section. Please keep it at the bottom of this section. -->
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