Editing Soba (section)

==History==
[[File:Udon soba introduction stele.jpg|thumb|Stele commemorating the introduction of soba and [[udon]] noodles at [[Jōten-ji]] temple. [[Enni]], the temple's founder, is traditionally believed to have brought noodlemaking back to Japan from China.<ref name="faure p320">{{Harvnb|Faure|2021|p=320}}</ref>]]

===Background===
Traces of buckwheat have been found at [[Neolithic]] sites in Japan, dating to 4000-2000 BCE, during the [[Jōmon period]].<ref>{{Harvnb|von Verschuer|2016|p=8}}</ref>

Buckwheat cultivation was first recorded in the ''[[Shoku Nihongi]]'', in an imperial edict of 722 CE issued by [[Empress Genshō]], instructing farmers to plant buckwheat in response to [[drought]] and [[famine]]. Another edict of 839 CE declared that buckwheat should be sown in August, and harvested in October, because the crop grows quickly in poor soil.<ref>{{Harvnb|von Verschuer|2016|p=25}}</ref> However, buckwheat did not seem to be widely cultivated, and was only sporadically eaten as [[porridge]].

In the 8th century, noodle-type foods of Chinese origin appeared in Japan.<ref>{{Harvnb|Naomichi|2014|p=77}}</ref> Later, the monk [[Enni]] (1202-1280) is traditionally credited for introducing noodles to Japan after returning from China.<ref name="faure p320" />

The first specific reference to buckwheat noodles (''soba-kiri'') comes from a record of 1574, kept at [[:ja:%E5%AE%9A%E5%8B%9D%E5%AF%BA|Jōshō-ji]] temple, which documents that ''soba-kiri'' was served to workers repairing the [[Main Hall (Japanese Buddhism)|main hall]].<ref>{{Cite web|url= https://jbpress.ismedia.jp/articles/-/29463?page=3|title=中国4000年より深い そばの歴史9000年 (9000 Year of Soba History)|publisher=JAPAN Business Press|author=漆原次郎|accessdate=2024-03-28}}</ref><ref>{{Harvnb|Naomichi|2014|p=78}}</ref> More mentions of soba noodles follow throughout the early 1600s.

===Edo period===
[[File:Sunaba izumiya.jpg|thumb|Print depicting ''Sunaba'', a popular soba restaurant from [[Osaka]]. By Takehara Shunchōsai, 1796-1798]]
Modern soba originates from the [[Edo period]] (1603-1868), centered around the city of Edo (modern [[Tokyo]]). The earliest references to soba are associated with [[Buddhist temples in Japan|Buddhist monasteries]] and [[Japanese tea ceremony|tea ceremonies]]. 

The 1643 cookbook ''[[:ja:%E6%96%99%E7%90%86%E7%89%A9%E8%AA%9E|Ryōri Monogatari]]'' (料理物語) is the first to contain a recipe for making soba. After the [[Great Fire of Meireki]] in 1657, soba shops became increasingly common in Tokyo.<ref>{{Harvnb|Naomichi|2014|p=120}}</ref>

At first, soba was considered a low-class food, but its reputation improved by the 18th century, when it began to be eaten by [[samurai]] and other high status peoples.<ref>{{Harvnb|Naomichi|2014|p=124}}</ref> 

One estimate states that every city block had one or more restaurants serving soba.<ref name="Naomichi p122-123">{{Harvnb|Naomichi|2014|p=122-123}}</ref> These soba establishments, many also serving [[sake]], functioned much like modern cafes where locals would stop for a casual meal.<ref name="Watson">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S6oVJbezGfEC&q=edo+soba&pg=PA165|title=Golden arches east: McDonald's in East Asia|first=James L. |last=Watson|publisher=Stanford University Press|year=1997|isbn=978-0-8047-3207-9|page=165}}</ref> In 1860, a meeting in Tokyo concerning the price of buckwheat was attended by 3,726 shops, indicating the popularity of soba.<ref name="Naomichi p122-123" /> Soba was also sold from mobile food stalls called ''[[Yatai (food cart)|yatai]]''.<ref>{{Harvnb|Naomichi|2014|p=217}}</ref>

At the time, much of the city's population was susceptible to [[beriberi]], due to high consumption of white rice, which is low in [[thiamine]].<ref name="Lien">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7RZSJAaNIHMC&q=edo+beriberi&pg=PA127|title=The politics of food |first1=Marianne E. |last1=Lien|first2=Brigitte |last2=Nerlich |publisher=Berg Publishers |page=127|year=2004|isbn= 978-1-85973-853-5 }}</ref> Soba, which is high in thiamine, was regularly eaten to prevent beriberi.<ref name="Udesky">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=fg9HAAAAYAAJ&q=soba+beriberi+edo&pg=PA127|title=The book of soba|first=James |last=Udesky |publisher=Kodansha International |page=107|year=1988|isbn= 978-0-87011-860-9 }}</ref>

<gallery widths="130px" heights="130px" mode="packed">
File:Machikado-ya Tenzaru Teishoku 20220529-02.jpg|''Zaru soba'' is an early form of soba, because soba was originally steamed on bamboo trays called ''[[zaru]]''
Three children eating, Japan LCCN2001705662.jpg|Three children eating soba, 1890-1923
Fukuyama soba restaurant 1771.jpg|Soba delivery in Fukiya-chō, Tokyo. Print by [[Kitao Shigemasa]], 1771
Japanese Edo Soba Yatai 03.jpg|Replica of a ''[[Yatai (food cart)|yatai]]'' (food stall) from the [[Edo period]]
</gallery>

=== Modern ===
[[File:Soba buffet near Suidobashi Station by shibainu.jpg|thumb|Soba shop near [[Suidōbashi Station]], Tokyo]]
Soba continues to be popular in modern times. Restaurants dedicated to soba include Sunaba, Chōju-an, Ōmura-an, Shōgetsu-an, Masuda-ya, and Maruka, some of which are ''[[yagō]]'', or traditional establishments whose names have passed down over time.<ref name="mitsuzawa">[http://www.mitsuzawa.kanagawaku.com/shops/yabu/yabu_topic.html やぶ光トピックス] 三ツ沢商店街振興会公式ホームページ</ref> Some restaurants serve soba and [[udon]] together, since both are prepared and eaten in a similar manner.

[[Railway station]]s often sell soba, as it is a popular and inexpensive [[fast food]].<ref name= "Mente">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OT8OSoiYyagC&q=tachi-gui+soba%E3%80%80station&pg=PA70|title=Dining Guide to Japan: Find the Right Restaurant, Order the Right Dish, and |first=Boye Lafayette De |last=Mente|page=70|publisher= Tuttle Publishing |year=2007 |isbn=978-4-8053-0875-2}}</ref> They are frequently purchased by busy [[salaryman|salarymen]]. Soba continues to be sold at ''yatai'' food stalls.

There are regional differences in the consumption of soba. A common perception is that soba is more popular in the [[Kantō region]] (eastern Japan), while [[udon]] is more popular in the [[Kansai region]] (western Japan), though there are exceptions.<ref name="Naomichi p249" /> As such, soba is considered the traditional noodle of choice for Tokyoites.<ref name="Barakan">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vJbd43uxLiMC&q=soba+Tokyoites&pg=PA83|title=Tokyo city guide|first1=Mayumi Yoshida |last1=Barakan|first2=Judith Connor |last2=Greer|publisher=Tuttle Publishing|page=83|year=1996|isbn=978-0-8048-1964-0}}</ref> 

Soba is traditionally eaten on [[New Year's Eve]] in most areas of Japan. This soba is called ''[[toshikoshi soba]]'' ("year-crossing soba").<ref name="Homma"/><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7TZlyilJ5DgC&q=Toshikoshi-soba&pg=PA61|title=Customs of Japan|author=Tsuchiya Haruhito|publisher=Ibc Publishing|year=2008 |isbn=978-4-89684-693-5|page=61}}</ref> In the Tokyo area, there is also a tradition of giving out soba to new neighbors after a house move (''hikkoshi soba''), although this practice is now rare.<ref name="Homma"/>