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==Obtaining natural odorants== {{main|Fragrance extraction}} [[File:Itar vendor in Hyderabad.JPG|thumb|Itar (herbal perfume) vendor on the street of [[Hyderabad]], India, who can compose an original perfume for the customer]] Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through [[organic synthesis]] and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials. The results of the extraction are either [[essential oil]]s, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of [[wax]]es in the extracted product.<ref name=Camps>Camps, Arcadi Boix (2000). "Perfumery Techniques in Evolution". ''Allured Pub Corp''. {{ISBN|0-931710-72-3}}</ref> All these techniques will, to a certain extent, distort the odor of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process, which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odor character or renders them odorless. * '''[[Solvent extraction|Maceration/Solvent extraction]]''': The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. ''Maceration'' lasts anywhere from hours to months. Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources. The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for ''distillation'' or easily [[Denaturation (biochemistry)|denatured]] by heat. Commonly used solvents for ''maceration/solvent extraction'' include [[ethane]], [[hexane]], and [[dimethyl ether]]. The product of this process is called a "[[Concrete (perfumery)|concrete]]." ** ''[[Supercritical fluid extraction]]'': A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employs [[Supercritical carbon dioxide|Supercritical CO<sub>2</sub>]]. Due to the low heat of process and the relatively nonreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odor of the raw material. **''[[Ethanol extraction]]'': A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage. Ethanol extraction from fresh plant materials contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol. * '''[[Distillation]]''': A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from [[plant]]s, such as [[orange blossom]]s and [[rose]]s. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through [[condensation]] of the distilled vapor. [[File:Fragonard small perfume distillery.JPG|thumb|upright|An old perfume still on display at [[Musée du Parfum|Fragonard]]]] ** ''Steam distillation'': Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds. The condensate from distillation are settled in a [[Florentine flask]]. This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water. The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called [[Herbal distillate|hydrosol]] and sometimes sold. This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as [[flower]]s, [[leaf|leaves]], and [[Plant stem|stems]]. ** ''Dry/destructive distillation'': The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous [[pyrolysis]], which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil [[amber]] and fragrant [[wood]]s where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odor is desired. ** ''Fractionation'': Through the use of a [[fractionation column]], different fractions distilled from a material can be selectively excluded to modify the scent of the final product. Although the product is more expensive, this is sometimes performed to remove unpleasant or undesirable scents of a material and affords the perfumer more control over their composition process. * '''Expression''': Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the [[essential oil]]s are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible. * '''[[Enfleurage]]''': Absorption of aroma materials into solid fat or wax and then extraction of odorous oils with [[ethanol|ethyl alcohol]]. Extraction by [[enfleurage]] was commonly used when [[distillation]] was not possible because some fragrant compounds [[Denaturation (biochemistry)|denature]] through high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the modern industry due to prohibitive costs and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods.<ref name=Fortineau/>
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