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==== Fermentation ==== Once the wort has cooled to a temperature that is friendly to yeast, the yeast is "pitched" into the wort and allowed to ferment. It is at this point that 'wort" becomes "beer." Primary fermentation in homebrewing takes place in large glass or plastic [[carboy]]s or food-grade plastic buckets, nearly always sealed.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://brewconductor.com/brewing/ingredients/yeast-fermentation/ |title=The Fermentation Process |access-date=18 June 2016}}</ref> When sealed, the fermenter is stoppered with a [[fermentation lock]], which allows the [[carbon dioxide]] gas produced to vent, while preventing other gasses and particles from entering. Recent innovations in [[nanotechnology]] have enabled a [[fermentation lock]] called the Sterilock to also prevent bacteria, wild yeasts and other potential harmful fungi reaching the fermenter although in some beer styles known as [[Sour beer|Sour Beer]], bacteria or wild yeasts are desirable to obtain the sour characteristics. During this time, temperatures should be kept at optimum temperature for the particular yeast strain being used. For [[ale]] this temperature is usually {{convert|18|-|24|C|F}}; <ref name="HowtoBrew3rd"> {{cite book |last=Palmer |first=John J. |title=How to Brew |year=2006 |isbn=0-937381-88-8 |location=Colorado |publisher=Brewers Publications |edition=3rd}} </ref><ref name="YeastGuide"> {{cite book |last=White |first=Chris |title=Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation |year=2010 |isbn=978-0-937381-96-0 |location=Colorado |publisher=Brewers Publications |author2=Zainasheff, Jamil}} </ref><ref name="Whitelabs"> {{cite web |url=http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061109034405/http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=9 November 2006 |title=White Labs |access-date=28 August 2011 }} </ref> for [[lager]] it is usually much colder, around {{convert|10|C|F}}.<ref name="HowtoBrew3rd" /><ref name="YeastGuide" /><ref name="Whitelabs" /> A vigorous fermentation then takes place, usually starting within twelve hours and continuing over the next few days. During this stage, the fermentable sugars ([[maltose]], [[glucose]], and [[sucrose]]) are consumed by the yeast, while [[ethanol]] and [[carbon dioxide]] are produced as byproducts by the yeast. A layer of sediment, the [[Lees (fermentation)|lees]] or "trub", appears at the bottom of the fermenter, composed of heavy fats, proteins and inactive yeast. This yeast is sometimes reused in subsequent batches.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.howtohomebrewbeers.com/2018/04/how-to-re-use-yeast-from-trub-after.html|title=How to HomeBrew}}</ref> Often, the brew is moved to a second fermenting vessel after primary fermentation called a secondary fermenter. This secondary fermentation process is often utilized by more advanced home brewers to enhance flavor. While not required, it is generally practiced by home brewers who wish to age or clarify their beer by removing it from the sediment left behind by primary fermentation, often through the addition of isinglass, colloidal silicon dioxide, or spakolloid.<ref name="HowtoBrew3rd" /> In addition to using two different fermenting containers, some home brewers may choose to only use one container in which primary and secondary fermentation take place. This container is usually referred to as a uni-tank.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://byo.com/hops/item/524-cylindroconical-fermenters-advanced-brewing|title=Cylindroconical Fermenters}}</ref> Uni-tanks are usually conical in shape, and can be made from plastic, glass, or stainless steel.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://conicalfermentor.com/ |title=Home |website=conicalfermentor.com}}</ref> A popular plastic conical for homebrewing is FastFerment, while a popular stainless steel conical fermenter for homebrewers is The Blichmann Fermenator.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-equipment/fermenting-equipment/conical-fermenters|title = Plastic & Stainless Steel Conical Fermenters}}</ref>
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