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===Kimono=== {{main|Kimono}} [[File:Gion Sayaka 1.jpg|thumb|left|Gion geisha Sayaka wearing a {{transliteration|ja|kurotomesode}}]] The kimono {{lang|ja|(着物)}}, labelled the "national costume of Japan",<ref name="Tradition and Innovation"/> is the most well-known form of traditional Japanese clothing. The kimono is worn wrapped around the body, left side over right, and is sometimes worn layered. It is always worn with an {{transliteration|ja|[[obi (sash)|obi]]}}, and may be worn with a number of traditional accessories and types of footwear.<ref name=Goldstein-Gidoni99>Goldstein-Gidoni, O. (1999). Kimono and the construction of gendered and cultural identities. ''Ethnology'', 38 (4), 351-370.</ref> Kimono differ in construction and wear between men and women. After the four-class system ended in the [[Edo period|Tokugawa period]] (1603–1867), the symbolic meaning of the kimono shifted from a reflection of social class to a reflection of self, allowing people to incorporate their own tastes and individualize their outfit.{{vague|reason=This is odd reasoning and implies that people somehow had no choice before the Meiji period - which isn't true.|date=July 2020}} The process of wearing a kimono requires, depending on gender and occasion, a sometimes detailed knowledge of a number of different steps and methods of tying the {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, with formal kimono for women requiring at times the help of someone else to put on. Post-WW2, kimono schools were built to teach those interested in kimono how to wear it and tie a number of different knots.<ref name="Tradition and Innovation"/> [[File:-Japanese Woman in Traditional Dress Posing Outdoors- MET DP155576.jpg|thumb|upright|''Japanese Woman in Traditional Dress Posing Outdoors'' by [[Suzuki Shin'ichi I|Suzuki Shin'ichi]], {{circa|1870s}}]] A number of [[kimono#Types of kimono|different types]] of kimono exist that are worn in the modern day, with women having more varieties than men. Whereas men's kimono differ in formality typically through fabric choice, the number of [[mon (crest)|crests]] on the garment (known as {{transliteration|ja|mon}} or {{transliteration|ja|kamon}}) and the accessories worn with it, women's kimono differ in formality through fabric choice, decoration style, construction and crests. ====Women's kimono==== *The {{transliteration|ja|[[furisode]]}} (lit., "swinging sleeve") is a type of formal kimono usually worn by young women, often for [[Seijin no Hi|Coming of Age Day]] or as bridalwear, and is considered the most formal kimono for young women. *The {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Uchikake|uchikake]]}} is also worn as bridalwear as an unbelted outer layer. *The {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Kurotomesode and kuro-montsuki|kurotomesode]]}} and {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Irotomesode and iro-montsuki|irotomesode]]}} are formal kimono with a design solely along the hem, and are considered the most formal kimono for women outside of the {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}. *The {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Hōmongi|houmongi]]}} and the {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Tsukesage|tsukesage]]}} are semi-formal women's kimono featuring a design on part of the sleeves and hem. *The {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Iromuji|iromuji]]}} is a low-formality solid-colour kimono worn for tea ceremony and other mildly-formal events. *The {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Komon|komon]]}} and {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Edo komon|edo komon]]}} are informal kimono with a repeating pattern all over the kimono. Other types of kimono, such as the {{transliteration|ja|[[yukata]]}} and {{transliteration|ja|[[kimono#Mofuku|mofuku]]}} (mourning) kimono are worn by both men and women, with differences only in construction and sometimes decoration. In previous decades, women only stopped wearing the {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} when they got married, typically in their early- to mid-twenties; however, in the modern day, a woman will usually stop wearing {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} around this time whether she is married or not.<ref name=Goldstein-Gidoni99/> ====Dressing in kimono==== The word kimono literally translates as "thing to wear", and up until the 19th century it was the main form of dress worn by men and women alike in Japan.<ref name=Grant05>Grant, P. (2005). Kimonos: the robes of Japan. ''Phoebe Grant’s Fascinating Stories of World Cultures and Customs'', 42.</ref> Traditionally, the art of wearing kimono (known as {{transliteration|ja|kitsuke}}) was passed from mother to daughter as simply learning how to dress, and in the modern day, this is also taught in specialist kimono schools.<ref name=Goldstein-Gidoni99/> First, one puts on {{transliteration|ja|tabi}}, which are white cotton socks.<ref name=Grant05/> Then the undergarments are put on followed by a top and a wraparound skirt.<ref name=Grant05/> Next, the {{transliteration|ja|nagajuban}} (under-kimono) is put on, which is then tied by a {{transliteration|ja|koshihimo}}.<ref name=Grant05/> Finally, the kimono is put on, with the left side covering the right, tied in place with one or two {{transliteration|ja|koshihimo}} and smoothed over with a {{transliteration|ja|datejime}} belt. The {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is then tied in place. Kimono are always worn left-over-right unless being worn by the dead, in which case they are worn right-over-left.<ref name=Grant05/> When the kimono is worn outside, either {{transliteration|ja|zōri}} or {{transliteration|ja|geta}} sandals are traditionally worn.<ref name=Grant05/> [[File:Japanese Wedding Day.jpg|thumb|left|A couple wearing kimono on their wedding day]] Women typically wear kimono when they attend traditional arts, such as a tea ceremonies or {{transliteration|ja|[[ikebana]]}} classes.<ref name=Jackson95/> During wedding ceremonies, the bride and groom will often go through many costume changes; though the bride may start off in an entirely-white outfit before switching to a colourful one,<ref name=Goldstein-Gidoni99/> grooms will wear black kimono made from habutae silk. Funeral kimono ({{transliteration|ja|mofuku}}) for both men and women are plain black with five crests, though Western clothing is also worn to funerals. Any plain black kimono with less than five crests is not considered to be mourning wear. The "coming of age" ceremony, {{transliteration|ja|[[Seijin no Hi]]}}, is another occasion where kimono are worn.<ref>Ashikari, M. (2003). The memory of the women’s white faces: Japanese and the ideal image of women. ''Japan Forum'', 15 (1), 55.</ref> At these annual celebrations, women wear brightly coloured {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}, often with fur stoles around the neck. Other occasions where kimono are traditionally worn in the modern day include the period surrounding the New Year, graduation ceremonies, and {{transliteration|ja|[[Shichi-go-san]]}}, which is a celebration for children aged 3, 5 and 7. ====Seasons==== Kimono are matched with seasons. {{transliteration|ja|Awase}} (lined) kimono, made of silk, wool, or synthetic fabrics, are worn during the cooler months.<ref name=Jackson95/> During these months, kimono with more rustic colours and patterns (like russet leaves), and kimono with darker colours and multiple layers, are favoured.<ref name=Jackson95/> Lightweight cotton {{transliteration|ja|yukata}} are worn by men and women during the spring and summer months. In the warmer weather months, vibrant colors and floral designs (like cherry blossoms) are common.<ref name=Jackson95/> ====Materials==== [[File:Kimono backshot by sth der.png|thumb|upright|Formal {{transliteration|ja|tateya musubi obi}} knot]] Up until the 15th century the vast majority of kimono worn by most people were made of [[hemp]] or linen, and they were made with multiple layers of materials.<ref name=Yamaka12>Yamaka, Norio. (Nov 9 2012) The Book of Kimono.</ref> Today, kimono can be made of silk, silk brocade, silk crepes (such as {{transliteration|ja|chirimen}}) and satin weaves (such as {{transliteration|ja|[[rinzu]]}}).<ref name=Yamaka12/> Modern kimono that are made with less-expensive easy-care fabrics such as rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers, are more widely worn today in Japan.<ref name=Yamaka12/> However, silk is still considered the ideal fabric for more formal kimono.<ref name=Jackson95/> Kimono are typically {{convert|39|-|43|in}} long with eight {{convert|14|-|15|in}} wide pieces.<ref name=Nakagawa63>Nakagawa, K. Rosovsky, H. (1963). The case of the dying kimono: the influence of changing fashions on the development of the Japanese woolen industry. ''The Business History Review'', 37 (1/2), 59-68</ref> These pieces are sewn together to create the basic T-shape. Kimono are traditionally sewn by hand, a technique known as {{transliteration|ja|wasai}}.<ref name=Nakagawa63/> However, even machine-made kimono require substantial hand-stitching. Kimono are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric called a {{transliteration|ja|[[tanmono]]}}.<ref name=Jackson95/> {{transliteration|ja|Tanmono}} come in standard dimensions, and the entire bolt is used to make one kimono.<ref name=Jackson95/> The finished kimono consists of four main strips of fabric — two panels covering the body and two panels forming the sleeves — with additional smaller strips forming the narrow front panels and collar.<ref name=Nakagawa63/> Kimono fabrics are frequently hand-made and -decorated. Kimono are worn with sash-belts called {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, of which there are several varieties. In previous centuries, {{transliteration|ja|obi}} were relatively pliant and soft, so literally held the kimono closed; modern-day {{transliteration|ja|obi}} are generally stiffer, meaning the kimono is actually kept closed through tying a series of flat ribbons, such as kumihimo, around the body. The two most common varieties of {{transliteration|ja|obi}} for women are {{transliteration|ja|fukuro obi}}, which can be worn with everything but the most casual forms of kimono, and {{transliteration|ja|nagoya obi}}, which are narrower at one end to make them easier to wear.
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