Editing Mount Everest (section)

==Expeditions==
{{recentism section|date=July 2022}}
<!-- [[Mt. Everest expedition]] redirects here -->
[[File:Climbing through the Yellow Band, Mt. Everest, -May 2007 a.jpg|thumb|right|Climbers below the [[Geneva Spur]]]]
[[File:1963 reunion of the 1953 Everest-climbing expedition.jpg|thumb|Reunion of the 1953 British team]]
{{see also|List of people who died climbing Mount Everest}}
Because Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world, it has attracted considerable attention and climbing attempts. Whether the mountain was climbed in ancient times is unknown. It may have been climbed in 1924, although this has never been confirmed, as neither of the men making the attempt returned. Several climbing routes have been established over several decades of climbing expeditions to the mountain.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/route.htm|title=The route – climbers guide to Everest|website=www.mounteverest.net|access-date=23 February 2020|archive-date=31 May 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230531063921/https://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/route.htm|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://alpenglowexpeditions.com/blog/mount-everest-routes/|title=Mount Everest: The Routes|date=4 May 2017|website=Alpenglow|access-date=23 February 2020|archive-date=4 August 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230804184834/http://alpenglowexpeditions.com/blog/mount-everest-routes|url-status=live}}</ref>{{Better source needed|date=February 2020|reason=Sources are self-published and may not comply with [[WP:ABOUTSELF]]. This template footnote may be removed if the preceding sources do comply with [[WP:ABOUTSELF]].}}

Everest's summit is first known to have been reached by a human in 1953, and interest from climbers increased thereafter.<ref name=la>{{cite news|url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1987-01-04-mn-1935-story.html|title=Mt. Everest's Popularity Is Still Climbing|work=Los Angeles Times|access-date=20 September 2015}}</ref> Despite the effort and attention poured into expeditions, only about 200 people had summited by 1987.<ref name=la/> Everest remained a difficult climb for decades, even for serious attempts by professional climbers and large national expeditions, which were the norm until the commercial era began in the 1990s.<ref name=japtimes>{{cite news|url=http://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2012/05/27/general/japans-everest-timeline/#.VZ6oDfBdgnd|last1=James|first1=Victoria|title=Japan's Everest timeline|date=27 May 2012|newspaper=The Japan Times Online|access-date=20 February 2016|archive-date=20 October 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211020001301/https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2012/05/27/general/japans-everest-timeline/#.VZ6oDfBdgnd|url-status=live}}</ref> By March 2012, Everest had been climbed 5,656 times with 223 deaths.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/IOTD/view.php?id=82578|title=The World's Tallest Mountain|date=2 January 2014|website=Earth Observatory|publisher=NASA|access-date=12 January 2014|archive-date=4 May 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170504074915/https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/IOTD/view.php?id=82578|url-status=live}}</ref> By 2013, [[The Himalayan Database]] recorded 6,871 summits by 4,042 different people.<ref name="alanarnette.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/02/20/everest-numbers-latest-summit-stats/|title=Everest by the Numbers: The Latest Summit Stats|website=alanarnette.com|format=Blog|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=1 December 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171201030515/http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/02/20/everest-numbers-latest-summit-stats/|url-status=live}}</ref>

Although lower mountains have longer or steeper climbs, Everest is so high the [[jet stream]] can hit it. Climbers can be faced with winds beyond {{convert|200|mph|km/h|abbr=on|order=flip}} when the weather shifts.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/kids/everestfacts.php|title=Everest Facts for Kids|website=www.alanarnette.com|access-date=23 January 2014|archive-date=12 January 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190112120740/http://alanarnette.com/kids/everestfacts.php|url-status=live}}</ref> At certain times of the year the jet stream shifts north, providing periods of relative calm at the mountain.<ref name=wind>{{cite web|url=http://www.accuweather.com/en/weather-news/window-of-opportunity-everest/64450|title=Window of Opportunity: Everest Climbing Season Underway|website=Accuweather|access-date=23 January 2014|archive-date=1 September 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160901215435/http://www.accuweather.com/en/weather-news/window-of-opportunity-everest/64450|url-status=dead}}</ref> Other dangers include blizzards and avalanches.<ref name=wind/>

===Early attempts===
In 1885, [[Clinton Thomas Dent]], president of the [[Alpine Club (UK)|Alpine Club]], suggested that climbing Mount Everest was possible in his book ''Above the Snow Line''.<ref>{{cite book|url=http://www.billbuxton.com/everest.pdf |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20221009/http://www.billbuxton.com/everest.pdf |archive-date=2022-10-09 |url-status=live |title=From First Sight to Summit: A Guide to the Literature on Everest up to the 1953 Ascent |date=5 October 2015|access-date=31 January 2017 |author=William Buxton}}</ref>

The northern approach to the mountain was discovered by [[George Mallory]] and [[Guy Bullock]] on the initial [[1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition|1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition]]. It was an exploratory expedition not equipped for a serious attempt to climb the mountain. With Mallory leading (and thus becoming the first European to set foot on Everest's flanks) they climbed the North Col to an altitude of {{convert|7005|m|ft|0}}. From there, Mallory espied a route to the top, but the party was unprepared to climb any further and descended.

The British returned for a [[1922 British Mount Everest Expedition|1922 expedition]]. On the first summit attempt Mallory, [[Edward Felix Norton|Col. Felix Norton]], and [[Howard Somervell]] without supplemental oxygen reached {{convert|8225|m|ft|-0|abbr=on}}, the first time a human reported to climb higher than {{convert|8000|m|ft|-0|abbr=on}}.
[[George Finch (chemist)|George Finch]] together with [[Geoffrey Bruce]] climbed using oxygen for the first time. They ascended at a remarkable speed—{{convert|290|m|ft|0}} per hour—and reached an altitude of {{convert|8321|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.

The [[1924 British Mount Everest Expedition|next expedition was in 1924]]. The initial attempt by Mallory and Geoffrey Bruce was aborted when weather conditions prevented the establishment of Camp&nbsp;VI. The next attempt was that of Norton and Somervell, who climbed without oxygen and in perfect weather, traversing the North Face into the [[Great Couloir]]. Norton managed to reach, {{convert|8572.8|m|ft|-0|abbr=on}} though he ascended only {{convert|30|m|ft|sigfig=1|abbr=on}} or so in the last hour. Mallory rustled up oxygen equipment for a last-ditch effort. He chose young [[Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)|Andrew Irvine]] as his partner.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Norton |first=E.F. |date=1924 |title=The Climb with Mr. Sommerville to 28,000 feet |url= |journal=The Geographical Journal |volume=64 |issue=6 |pages=451–455|doi=10.2307/1781918 |jstor=1781918 |bibcode=1924GeogJ..64..451N }}</ref>

[[File:Condor Films 1952.jpg|thumb|left|upright|1952 documentary]]

On 8 June 1924, George Mallory and [[Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)|Andrew Irvine]] made an attempt on the summit via the North Col-North Ridge-Northeast Ridge route from which they never returned. On 1 May 1999, the [[Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition]] found Mallory's body on the North Face in a snow basin below and to the west of the traditional site of Camp&nbsp;VI. Controversy has raged in the mountaineering community whether one or both of them reached the summit 29&nbsp;years before the first confirmed ascent and safe descent of Everest by Sir [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[Tenzing Norgay]] in 1953. Irvine's detached foot, still in a boot and sock, was found in September 2024.<ref>{{cite news |last=Wong |first=Tessa |date=11 October 2024 |title=Family tells of 'relief' after 1924 climber's foot found on Everest |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cy0g2p47xd5o |access-date=12 May 2025 |work=[[BBC News]] |location=London, UK |archive-date=12 May 2025 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512171410/https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cy0g2p47xd5o|url-status=live}}</ref>

In 1933, [[Lucy, Lady Houston|Lady Houston]], a British [[millionaire]]ss, funded the [[Houston–Mount Everest flight expedition|Houston Everest Flight of 1933]], which saw a formation of two [[Westland Wallace|aeroplanes]] led by the [[Douglas Douglas-Hamilton, 14th Duke of Hamilton|Marquess of Clydesdale]] fly over the Everest [[Summit (topography)|summit]].<ref>{{Cite book|last=Crompton|first=Teresa|title=Adventuress: The Life and Loves of Lucy, Lady Houston|publisher=The History Press|year=2020}}</ref><ref name=flymicro>{{cite web|url=http://www.flymicro.com/everest/index.cfm?page=docs%2FHistory%2FAeroplanes.htm|title=Aeroplane expeditions to Everest|publisher=flymicro.com|access-date=28 March 2008|archive-date=4 January 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220104062122/http://www.flymicro.com/everest/index.cfm?page=docs%2FHistory%2FAeroplanes.htm|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=k2news_woe>{{cite news|url=http://www.k2news.com/wingsover.htm|title=Wings Over Everest 2003|publisher=Everestnews.com|year=2002|access-date=28 March 2008|archive-date=3 January 2013|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130103172008/http://www.k2news.com/wingsover.htm|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal|title=Flying Over World's Highest Peak|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8ScDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA20|issue=5|journal=[[Popular Science]]|volume=122|date=May 1933|page=20|publisher=Bonnier Corporation|access-date=17 June 2015|archive-date=5 October 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20241005160710/https://books.google.com/books?id=8ScDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA20#v=onepage&q&f=false|url-status=live}}</ref>

Early expeditions—such as [[Charles Granville Bruce|Charles Bruce]]'s in the 1920s and [[Hugh Ruttledge]]'s two unsuccessful attempts in [[1933 British Mount Everest expedition|1933]] and [[1936 British Mount Everest expedition|1936]]—tried to ascend the mountain from [[Tibet]], via the North Face. Access was closed from the north to Western expeditions in 1950 after China took control of Tibet. In 1950, [[Bill Tilman]] and a small party which included [[Charles Snead Houston|Charles Houston]], Oscar Houston, and Betsy Cowles undertook an [[Mount Everest reconnaissance from Nepal#1950 Houston–Tilman exploration of Solu Khumbu|exploratory expedition to Everest through Nepal]] along the route which has now become the standard approach to Everest from the south.<ref name=evhist_timeline>{{cite web|url=http://www.everesthistory.com/time3.htm |title=Everest History Time Line |website=Everest History |year=2003 |access-date=17 June 2016 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100526185812/http://www.everesthistory.com/time3.htm |archive-date=26 May 2010}}</ref>

The [[1952 Swiss Mount Everest Expedition]], led by [[Edouard Wyss-Dunant]], was granted permission to attempt a climb from Nepal. It established a route through the Khumbu icefall and ascended to the South Col at an elevation of {{convert|7986|m|ft|abbr=on}}. [[Raymond Lambert]] and [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] [[Tenzing Norgay]] were able to reach an elevation of about {{convert|8595|m|ft|abbr=on}} on the Southeast Ridge, setting a new climbing altitude record. Tenzing's experience was useful when he was hired to be part of the British expedition in 1953.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://imagingeverest.rgs.org/Concepts/Virtual_Everest/-116.html |title=Tenzing Norgay GM |website=Imagining Everest |publisher=The Royal Geographical Society |access-date=21 June 2007 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070414143647/http://imagingeverest.rgs.org/Concepts/Virtual_Everest/-116.html |archive-date=14 April 2007}}</ref>  The Swiss decided to make another post-monsoon attempt in the autumn; they made it to the South Col but were driven back by winter winds and severe cold.<ref>Ullman, Tenzing ''Man of Everest''</ref><ref>{{cite book |last= Hunt |first= John |title= The Ascent of Everest |year= 1953 |publisher= Hodder & Stoughton |location= London |pages= 51, 52}}</ref>

===First successful ascent by Tenzing and Hillary, 1953===
{{Main|1953 British Mount Everest expedition}}
[[File:Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.jpg|thumb|[[Edmund Hillary]] and [[Tenzing Norgay]]]]

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by [[John Hunt, Baron Hunt|John Hunt]], returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair, [[Tom Bourdillon]] and [[Charles Evans (mountaineer)|Charles Evans]], came within {{convert|100|m|ft|abbr=on}} of the summit on 26 May 1953, but turned back after running into oxygen problems. As planned, their work in route finding and breaking trail and their oxygen caches were of great aid to the following pair. Two days later, the expedition made its second assault on the summit with the second climbing pair: the New Zealander [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[Tenzing Norgay]], a Nepali [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] climber. They reached the summit at 11:30{{nbsp}}am local time on 29 May 1953 via the South Col route. At the time, both acknowledged it as a team effort by the whole expedition, but Tenzing revealed a few years later that Hillary had put his foot on the summit first.<ref name="Ullman" /> They paused at the summit to take photographs and buried a few sweets and a small cross in the snow before descending.{{Citation needed|date=May 2021}}

===1950s–1960s===
On 23 May 1956, [[Ernst Schmied]] and [[Juerg Marmet]] ascended.<ref name=swiss/> This was followed by [[Dölf Reist]] and Hans-Rudolf von Gunten on 24 May 1957.<ref name=swiss>{{cite web|url=http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/schmied.htm|title=Ernst Schmied|publisher=EverestHistory.com|access-date=10 April 2010|archive-date=14 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220314055704/http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/schmied.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> [[Wang Fuzhou]], [[Gongbu (mountaineer)|Gonpo]] and Qu Yinhua of China made the first reported [[1960 Chinese Mount Everest expedition|ascent of the peak from the North Ridge]] on 25 May 1960.<ref name=NorthRidge/> The first American to climb Everest, [[Jim Whittaker]], joined by [[Nawang Gombu]], reached the summit on 1 May 1963 on the [[1963 American Mount Everest expedition|American Mount Everest expedition]] and on 22 May on the same expedition [[Tom Hornbein]] and [[Willi Unsoeld]] were the first the traverse the mountain by climbing via the [[North Face (Everest)|North Face]] and descending via the [[South Col]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/whittaker.htm |title=Jim Whittaker |publisher=EverestHistory.com |access-date=13 February 2010 |archive-date=13 May 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190513193901/http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/whittaker.htm |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="test">{{cite journal|url=http://www.americanheritage.com/articles/magazine/ah/2007/1/2007_1_58.shtml|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081203164307/http://www.americanheritage.com/articles/magazine/ah/2007/1/2007_1_58.shtml| archive-date=3 December 2008|first=Maurice|last=Isserman|title=Highest Adventure|journal=American Heritage|date=February–March 2007}}</ref>

===1970s===
{{see also|1970 Mount Everest disaster}}

In 1970, Japanese mountaineers conducted a major expedition. The centrepiece was a large "siege"-style expedition led by [[Saburo Matsukata]], working on finding a new route up the Southwest Face.{{sfnp|Unsworth|2000|p=594}} Another element of the expedition was an attempt to ski Mount Everest.<ref name="japtimes"/> Despite a staff of over one hundred people and a decade of planning work, the expedition suffered eight deaths and failed to summit via the planned routes.<ref name=japtimes/> However, Japanese expeditions did enjoy some successes. For example, [[Yuichiro Miura]] became the first man to ski down Everest from the South Col—he descended nearly {{convert|4,200|ft|m|order=flip|adj=pre| vertical }} from the South Col before falling with extreme injuries. Another success was an expedition that put four on the summit via the South Col route.<ref name=japtimes/><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/|title=The HJ/31/8 The Japanese Mount Everest Expedition, 1969–1970|website=himalayanclub.org|access-date=29 January 2016|archive-date=27 March 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240327025245/https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.everesthistory.com/everestsummits/summits70.htm |title=Everest Summits in the 1970s |website=EverestHistory.com |access-date=25 May 2016 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091014112932/http://www.everesthistory.com/everestsummits/summits70.htm |archive-date=14 October 2009}}</ref> Miura's exploits became the subject of film, and he went on to become the oldest person to summit Mount Everest in 2003 at age 70 and again in 2013 at the age of 80.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.espn.com/espn/story/_/id/9303665/japan-yuichiro-miura-80-oldest-reach-top-mount-everest |title=Yuichiro Miura, 80, scales Everest |agency=Associated Press |date=23 May 2013 |website=ESPN}}</ref>

In 1975, [[Junko Tabei]] became the first woman to summit Mount Everest.<ref name=japtimes/>{{clear}}

The [[1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition]] led and organised by [[Chris Bonington]] made the first ascent of the Southwest Face of Everest from the [[Western Cwm]].

The [[1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest]] led by [[Tony Streather]] put Bronco Lane and Brummy Stokes on the summit by the normal route.

In 1978, [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Peter Habeler]] made the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen.

===1979/1980: Winter Himalaism===
[[File:Mount Everest winter 1980 cert.jpg|thumb|Confirmation of the summit obtained by [[Nepal Tourism Board|Nepal's Ministry of Tourism]]]]
The Polish climber [[Andrzej Zawada]] headed the first winter ascent of Mount Everest, the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander. The team of 20 Polish climbers and 4 Sherpas established a base camp on [[Khumbu Glacier]] in early January 1980. On 15 January, the team managed to set up Camp III at {{convert|7150|m|ft}} above sea level, but further action was stopped by hurricane-force winds. The weather improved after 11 February, when [[Leszek Cichy]], Walenty Fiut and [[Krzysztof Wielicki]] set up camp IV on [[South Col]] at {{convert|7906|m|ft}}. Cichy and Wielicki started the final ascent at 6:50{{nbsp}}am on 17 February. At 2:40{{nbsp}}pm [[Andrzej Zawada]] at base camp heard the climbers' voices over the radio – "We are on the summit! The strong wind blows all the time. It is unimaginably cold."<ref>[https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ%201984%2050-59%20Zawada%20Everest.pdf Mount Everest the first winter ascent] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211114174254/https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ%201984%2050-59%20Zawada%20Everest.pdf |date=14 November 2021 }} Andrzej Zawada ''www.alpinejournal.org.uk'', accessed 12 December 2020</ref><ref name="theclymb.com">{{cite web|url=http://blog.theclymb.com/passions/history-2/ice-warriors-polands-golden-alpine-generation/|title=The Ice Warriors: Poland's Golden Alpine Generation|date=30 March 2016|access-date=31 March 2018|archive-date=17 September 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210917104446/https://blog.theclymb.com/passions/history-2/ice-warriors-polands-golden-alpine-generation/|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://winterclimb.com/articles/item/111-mount-everest-first-winter-ascent-1980|title=The first winter ascent of Mount Everest|first=Damian|last=Granowski|access-date=30 March 2018|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072827/https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/111-mount-everest-first-winter-ascent-1980|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://himalman.wordpress.com/2007/11/13/krzysztof-wielicki-polish-winter-expedition-1980-part-1/|title=Krzysztof Wielicki – Polish Winter Expedition 1980 – part 1|date=13 November 2007|access-date=30 March 2018|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072826/https://himalman.wordpress.com/2007/11/13/krzysztof-wielicki-polish-winter-expedition-1980-part-1/|url-status=live}}</ref> The successful winter ascent of Mount Everest started a new decade of Winter Himalaism, which became a Polish specialisation. After 1980 Poles did ten first winter ascents on [[Eight-thousander|8000 metre peaks]], which earned Polish climbers a reputation of "Ice Warriors".<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/8000erwinter.shtml|title=Adventurestats.com|website=www.adventurestats.com|access-date=26 March 2018|archive-date=23 October 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191023050813/http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/8000erwinter.shtml|url-status=usurped}}</ref><ref name="theclymb.com"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/wfeature-polish-winter/2|title=Golden Decade: The Birth of 8000m Winter Climbing|website=www.alpinist.com|access-date=4 January 2018|archive-date=15 June 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220615125022/http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/wfeature-polish-winter/2|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.scmp.com/sport/other-sport/article/2102469/how-polands-ice-warriors-aim-become-first-team-summit-k2-savage|title=Poland's 'ice warriors' risk life and limb to be first to summit K2 in winter|date=13 July 2017|access-date=30 March 2018|archive-date=28 April 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220428114017/https://www.scmp.com/sport/other-sport/article/2102469/how-polands-ice-warriors-aim-become-first-team-summit-k2-savage|url-status=live}}</ref>

===Lho La tragedy, 1989===
In May 1989, Polish climbers under the leadership of Eugeniusz Chrobak organised an international expedition to Mount Everest on a difficult western ridge. Ten Poles and nine foreigners participated, but ultimately only the Poles remained in the attempt for the summit. On 24 May, Chrobak and Andrzej Marciniak, starting from camp V at {{convert|8200|m|ft}}, overcame the ridge and reached the summit. But on 27 May, during an avalanche from the side of [[Khumbutse]] near the [[Lho La]] pass, four Polish climbers were killed: Mirosław Dąsal, Mirosław Gardzielewski, [[Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich]] and Wacław Otręba. The following day, due to his injuries, Chrobak also died. Marciniak, who was also injured, was saved by a rescue expedition in which [[Artur Hajzer]] and New Zealanders [[Gary Ball]] and [[Rob Hall]] took part. In the organisation of the rescue expedition they took part, inter alia [[Reinhold Messner]], [[Elizabeth Hawley]], [[Carlos Carsolio]] and the US consul.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.tygodnikpowszechny.pl/zgineli-bo-byli-najlepsi-134200|title=Zginęli, bo byli najlepsi|date=9 June 2009|website=www.tygodnikpowszechny.pl|access-date=30 May 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072830/https://www.tygodnikpowszechny.pl/zgineli-bo-byli-najlepsi-134200|url-status=live}}</ref>

===1996 disaster===
{{main|1996 Mount Everest disaster}}
On 10 and 11 May 1996, eight climbers died after several guided expeditions were caught in a blizzard high up on the mountain during a summit attempt on 10 May. During the 1996 season, 15 people died while climbing on Mount Everest. These were the highest death tolls for a single weather event, and for a single season, until the sixteen deaths in the [[2014 Mount Everest avalanche]]. The guiding disaster gained wide publicity and raised questions about the commercialisation of climbing and the safety of guiding clients on Mount Everest.

Journalist [[Jon Krakauer]], on assignment from ''[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]]'' magazine, was in one of the affected guided parties, and afterward published the bestseller ''[[Into Thin Air]]'', which related his experience. Krakauer was critical of guide [[Anatoli Boukreev]] in his recollection of the expedition.<ref name="Washington Post">{{cite news |last1=Baechtel |first1=Mark |title=Review: Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer |url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/entertainment/books/2001/11/18/for-anyone-with-even-a-passing/a4f154e5-c22b-4fc9-bea3-93c794d34814/ |newspaper=Washington Post |access-date=16 April 2021 |archive-date=12 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230412050721/https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/entertainment/books/2001/11/18/for-anyone-with-even-a-passing/a4f154e5-c22b-4fc9-bea3-93c794d34814/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="Russia Beyond" /> A year later, Boukreev co-authored ''[[The Climb (book)|The Climb]]'', in part as a rebuttal of Krakauer's portrayal.<ref name="New York Times Review The Climb">{{cite news |last=Parfit |first=Michael |title=Breathless |url=https://archive.nytimes.com/www.nytimes.com/books/97/12/07/reviews/971207.07parfitt.html |work=[[New York Times]] |date=7 December 1997 |access-date=16 April 2021 |archive-date=16 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210416171415/https://archive.nytimes.com/www.nytimes.com/books/97/12/07/reviews/971207.07parfitt.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The dispute sparked a debate within the climbing community.<!-- sentence regarding Krakauer as a personna non grata removed until someone cites a source --> Boukreev was later awarded The American Alpine Club's David Sowles Award for his rescue efforts on the expedition.<ref name="Russia Beyond">{{cite web |last1=Zubacheva |first1=Ksenia |title=How a Russian rescued U.S. alpinists on top of Mt. Everest |url=https://www.rbth.com/history/327642-boukreev-everest-tragedy |website=Russia Beyond |date=21 February 2018 |access-date=21 February 2018 |archive-date=9 April 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180409015544/https://www.rbth.com/history/327642-boukreev-everest-tragedy |url-status=live }}</ref>

In May 2004, physicist Kent Moore and surgeon John L. Semple, both researchers from the [[University of Toronto]], told ''[[New Scientist]]'' magazine that an analysis of weather conditions on 11 May suggested that weather caused oxygen levels to plunge about 14 per cent.<ref name="NewScientist">{{cite journal| title = The day the sky fell on Everest| journal = New Scientist| issue = 2449| page = 15| date = 29 May 2004| url = http://www.newscientisttech.com/article/mg18224492.200-the-day-the-sky-fell-on-everest.html| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070703183045/http://www.newscientisttech.com/article/mg18224492.200-the-day-the-sky-fell-on-everest.html| archive-date = 3 July 2007| access-date = 11 December 2006}}</ref><ref name="BioEd Online">{{cite web| url=http://www.bioedonline.org/news/news.cfm?art=986| title=High winds suck oxygen from Everest. Predicting pressure lows could protect climbers| access-date=11 December 2006| last=Peplow| first=Mark| date=25 May 2004| publisher=BioEd Online| quote=Moore explains that these jet streaks can drag a huge draught of air up the side of the mountain, lowering the air pressure. He calculates that this typically reduces the partial pressure of oxygen in the air by about 6%, which translates to a 14% reduction in oxygen uptake for the climbers. Air at that altitude already contains only one third as much oxygen as sea-level air.| archive-date=4 October 2020| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201004221206/http://www.bioedonline.org/news/news.cfm?art=986| url-status=live}}</ref>

One of the survivors was [[Beck Weathers]], left for dead about 275 metres (900 feet) from Camp 4 at 7,950 metres (26,085 feet). After spending a night on the mountain, Weathers managed to make it back to Camp 4 with massive frostbite and vision impaired due to snow blindness.<ref name="badassoftheweek.com">{{cite web|title=Beck Weathers|url=http://www.badassoftheweek.com/weathers.html|website=Badass of the Week|access-date=25 June 2016|archive-date=9 April 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150409072833/http://www.badassoftheweek.com/weathers.html|url-status=live}}</ref> When he arrived at Camp 4, fellow climbers considered his condition terminal and left him in a tent to die overnight.<ref name="DMag">{{cite journal|last1=Weathers|first1=Beck|title=My Journey Home From Everest|journal=D Magazine|date=May 2000|url=http://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2000/may/my-journey-home-from-everest/|access-date=31 January 2017|quote=They left me alone in [[Scott Fischer]]'s tent that night, expecting me to die. On a couple of occasions, I heard the others referring to "a dead guy" in the tent. Who could that be? I wondered as I slipped in and out of wakefulness.|archive-date=20 October 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211020002916/https://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-magazine/2000/may/my-journey-home-from-everest/|url-status=live}}</ref> Weathers was lowered to Camp 2 and eventually a helicopter rescue was organised thanks to the Nepali Army.<ref name="badassoftheweek.com"/><ref name="DMag"/>

The storm's impact on climbers on the North Ridge of Everest, where several climbers also died, was detailed in a first-hand account by British filmmaker and writer [[Matt Dickinson]] in his book ''The Other Side of Everest''. Sixteen-year-old Mark Pfetzer was on the climb and wrote about it in his account, ''Within Reach: My Everest Story''.

The 2015 feature film ''[[Everest (2015 film)|Everest]]'', directed by [[Baltasar Kormákur]], is based on the events of this guiding disaster.<ref name=Baltasar>{{cite news|last=Hopewell|first=John|title='2 Guns' Helmer Kormakur Set to Climb 'Everest'|url=https://variety.com/2013/film/international/2-guns-kormakur-set-to-climb-everest-1200574821/|access-date=17 January 2014|newspaper=Variety|date=6 August 2013|archive-date=1 February 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140201091929/http://variety.com/2013/film/international/2-guns-kormakur-set-to-climb-everest-1200574821/|url-status=live}}</ref>

===2006 mountaineering season===
{| class="wikitable collapsible sortable floatright collapsed" style="font-size: 90%; "
|-
! style="text-align:center;" colspan="2"|2006 fatalities
|-
!Deaths<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/asia/cold-mountain-death-on-everest-620716.html|title=Cold mountain: Death on Everest|work=The Independent|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=3 June 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230603191716/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/asia/cold-mountain-death-on-everest-620716.html|url-status=live}}</ref>
!Nation<ref name="himalayandatabase2006">{{cite web|url=http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2006%20Season%20Lists/2006%20Spring%20A17.html|title=Himalayan Database Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley|website=himalayandatabase.com|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=11 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220811160236/http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2006%20Season%20Lists/2006%20Spring%20A17.html|url-status=live}}</ref>
|-
|Tuk Bahadur Thapa Masa
|{{Flagcountry|Nepal}}
|-
|Igor Plyushkin
|{{Flagcountry|Russia}}
|-
|[[Vitor Negrete]]
|{{Flagcountry|Brazil}}
|-
|[[David Sharp (mountaineer)|David Sharp]]
|{{Flagcountry|United Kingdom}}
|-
|Thomas Weber
|{{Flagcountry|Germany}}
|-
|[[Tomas Olsson]]
|{{Flagcountry|Sweden}}
|-
|Jacques-Hugues Letrange
|{{Flagcountry|France}}
|-
|Ang Phinjo
|{{Flagcountry|Nepal}}
|-
|*[[Pavel Kalny]]
|{{Flagcountry|Czech Republic}}
|-
|Lhakpa Tseri<ref name=deaths>{{cite web|url=http://www.greatoutdoors.com/published/dispatch-19-massive-collapse-in-khumbu-icefall-claims-the-lives-of-three-sherpa-climbers|title=Dispatch 19: Massive Collapse in Khumbu Icefall Claims the Lives of Three Sherpa Climbers|website=greatoutdoors.com|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=24 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924023558/http://www.greatoutdoors.com/published/dispatch-19-massive-collapse-in-khumbu-icefall-claims-the-lives-of-three-sherpa-climbers|url-status=dead}}</ref>
|{{Flagcountry|Nepal}}
|-
|Dawa Temba<ref name=deaths/>
|{{Flagcountry|Nepal}}
|-
|Sri Kishan<ref name="himalayandatabase2006"/>
||{{Flagcountry|India}}
|-
|colspan="2" style="text-align: center;"|''*Lhotse face fatality''
|}
[[File:Avalanche on Everest.JPG|thumb|Small avalanche on Everest, 2006]]
In 2006, 12 people died. One death in particular (see below) triggered an international debate and years of discussion about climbing ethics.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.cnn.com/2013/05/25/travel/everest-2012-anniversary/|title=Striving for Everest: World's highest battle|last=Strickland | first=Ashley |date=25 May 2013|work=[[CNN]]|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170625120045/http://www.cnn.com/travel/article/everest-2012-anniversary/index.html |archive-date=2017-06-25  |url-status=live}}</ref> The season was also remembered for the rescue of [[Lincoln Hall (climber)|Lincoln Hall]] who had been left by his climbing team and declared dead, but was later discovered alive and survived being helped off the mountain.

====David Sharp ethics controversy, 2006====
There was an international controversy about the death of a solo British climber [[David Sharp (mountaineer)|David Sharp]], who attempted to climb Mount Everest in 2006 but died in his attempt. The story broke out of the mountaineering community into popular media, with a series of interviews, allegations, and critiques. The question was whether climbers that season had left a man to die and whether he could have been saved. He was said to have attempted to summit Mount Everest by himself with no Sherpa or guide and fewer oxygen bottles than considered normal.<ref name=top>{{cite web|url=http://www.outsideonline.com/1909966/over-top|title=Over the Top|website=Outside Online|access-date=20 September 2015|date=15 August 2006|archive-date=10 July 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230710045042/https://www.outsideonline.com/1909966/over-top|url-status=live}}</ref> He went with a low-budget Nepali guide firm that only provides support up to Base Camp, after which climbers go as a "loose group", offering a high degree of independence. The manager at Sharp's guide support said Sharp did not take enough oxygen for his summit attempt and did not have a Sherpa guide.<ref name="washingtontimes.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2006/may/22/20060522-110420-9433r/|title=Everest climber left to die alone|website=The Washington Times|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=3 July 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220703171200/https://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2006/may/22/20060522-110420-9433r/|url-status=live}}</ref> It is less clear who knew Sharp was in trouble, and if they did know, whether they were qualified or capable of helping him.<ref name=top/>

Double-amputee climber [[Mark Inglis]] said in an interview that on 15 May his climbing party, and many others, had passed Sharp, sheltering under a rock overhang {{convert|450|m|ft}} below the summit, without attempting a rescue.<ref name=abcnews052006>{{cite web|url=http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200605/s1645603.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060823184345/http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200605/s1645603.htm|archive-date=23 August 2006|title=Everest climber defends leaving dying Briton|publisher=Australian Broadcasting Corporation|date=23 May 2006}}</ref> Inglis said 40 people had passed by Sharp, but he might have been overlooked as climbers assumed Sharp was the corpse nicknamed "[[Green Boots]]",<ref name=Sharp>{{cite news |last1=Breed |first1=Allen G. |last2=Gurubacharya |first2=Binaj |url=http://english.ohmynews.com/articleview/article_view.asp?menu=c10400&no=305837&rel_no=1 |title=Part II: Near top of Everest, he waves off fellow climbers: 'I just want to sleep' |date=18 July 2006 |work=Oh My News |access-date=7 December 2016 |archive-date=24 April 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140424133320/http://english.ohmynews.com/articleview/article_view.asp?menu=c10400&no=305837&rel_no=1 |url-status=dead }}</ref> but Inglis was not aware that Turkish climbers had tried to help Sharp despite being in the process of helping an injured woman down (a Turkish woman, [[Burçak Özoğlu Poçan|Burçak Poçan]]). There has also been some discussion about [[Himex]] in the commentary on Inglis and Sharp. In regard to Inglis's initial comments, he later revised certain details because he had been interviewed while he was "physically and mentally exhausted, and in a lot of pain. He had suffered severe frostbite – he later had five fingertips amputated."<ref name=thefever>{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3662508/Summit-fever.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220110/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3662508/Summit-fever.html |archive-date=10 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Summit fever|author=Ed Douglas|date=13 January 2007|website=Telegraph.co.uk|access-date=20 September 2015}}{{cbignore}}</ref> It was estimated that Sharp summited Mount Everest on 14 May and began his descent down, but on 15 May he was in trouble and being passed by climbers on their way up and down.<ref name=change/> It is believed he was suffering from hypoxia and was about {{convert|1000|ft|m|order=flip|sigfig=1|abbr=on}} from the summit on the North Side route.<ref name=change/>

{{blockquote|Dawa from Arun Treks also gave oxygen to David and tried to help him move, repeatedly, for perhaps an hour. But he could not get David to stand alone or even stand to rest on his shoulders, and crying, Dawa had to leave him too. Even with two Sherpas, it was not going to be possible to get David down the tricky sections below.|Jamie McGuiness<ref name=jamie>{{cite web|url=http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=2112|title=Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb – Jamie McGuiness about David Sharp: "Crying, Dawa had to leave him"|website=explorersweb.com|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=19 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150919023358/http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=2112|url-status=live}}</ref>}}

[[The Tribune (Chandigarh)|''The Tribune'' of Chandigarh, India]] quoted someone who described what happened to Sharp as "the most shameful act in the history of mountaineering".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.tribuneindia.com/2006/20061210/spectrum/main6.htm |title=The High and Low of Everest |department=Spectrum |website=[[The Tribune (Chandigarh)|The Sunday Tribune]] |location=Chandigarh, India |access-date=24 November 2021 |archive-date=19 October 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211019222801/https://www.tribuneindia.com/2006/20061210/spectrum/main6.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> In addition to Sharp's death, at least nine other climbers perished that year, including multiple Sherpas working for various guiding companies.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=7925|title=Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb – Un-named Everest Sherpa gets a name – and fatality details|website=explorersweb.com|access-date=20 September 2015|archive-date=4 July 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220704232734/https://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=7925|url-status=dead}}</ref>

Much of this controversy was captured by the ''[[Discovery Channel]]'' while filming the television program ''[[Everest: Beyond the Limit]]''. A crucial decision affecting the fate of Sharp is shown in the program, where an early returning climber, Lebanese adventurer [[Maxim Chaya]], is descending from the summit and radios to his base camp manager ([[Russell Brice]]) that he has found a frostbitten and unconscious climber in distress. Chaya is unable to identify Sharp, who had chosen to climb solo without any support and so did not identify himself to other climbers. The base camp manager assumes that Sharp is part of a group that has already calculated that they must abandon him, and informs his lone climber that there is no chance of him being able to help Sharp by himself. As Sharp's condition deteriorates through the day and other descending climbers pass him, his opportunities for rescue diminish: his legs and feet curl from [[frostbite]], preventing him from walking; the later descending climbers are lower on oxygen and lack the strength to offer aid; time runs out for any Sherpas to return and rescue him.

David Sharp's body remained just below the summit on the Chinese side next to "Green Boots"; they shared a space in a small rock cave that was an ad hoc tomb for them.<ref name="change">{{cite book|author1=D. Savage|author2=B. Torgler|title=The Times They Are A Changin': The Effect of Institutional Change on Cooperative Behaviour at 26,000 ft over Sixty Years|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=49DKBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA5|year=2015|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-1-137-52515-4|pages=5–|access-date=22 July 2015|archive-date=5 October 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20241005160807/https://books.google.com/books?id=49DKBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA5#v=onepage&q&f=false|url-status=live}}</ref> Sharp's body was removed from the cave in 2007, according to the BBC,<ref name=britb>{{cite web | url=http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20151008-the-graveyard-in-the-clouds-everests-200-dead-bodies | title=Death in the Clouds: The problem with Everest's 200+ bodies | date=9 October 2015 | access-date=10 October 2015 | archive-date=3 July 2017 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170703160700/http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20151008-the-graveyard-in-the-clouds-everests-200-dead-bodies | url-status=live }}</ref> and since 2014, Green Boots has been missing, presumably removed or buried.<ref name="Nuwer"/>

====Lincoln Hall rescue, 2006====
As the Sharp debate kicked off on 26 May 2006, Australian climber [[Lincoln Hall (climber)|Lincoln Hall]] was found alive after being left for dead the day before.<ref name=":2" /> He was found by a party of four climbers ([[Dan Mazur]], Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Jangbu Sherpa) who, giving up their own summit attempt, stayed with Hall and descended with him and a party of 11 Sherpas sent up to carry him down. Hall later fully recovered. His team assumed he had died from cerebral edema, and they were instructed to cover him with rocks.<ref name=":2">{{cite news |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/nepal/1519597/Climber-declared-dead-on-Everest-is-brought-down-alive.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220110/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/nepal/1519597/Climber-declared-dead-on-Everest-is-brought-down-alive.html |archive-date=10 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live |title=Climber declared dead on Everest is brought down alive |last=Squires|first=Nick |work=Daily Telegraph |location=United Kingdom |access-date=16 May 2017}}{{cbignore}}</ref> There were no rocks around to do this and he was abandoned.<ref name=":3">{{cite news |last=Weber |first=Bruce |date=24 March 2012 |title=Lincoln Hall, Australian Mountaineer, Dies at 56 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/25/world/asia/lincoln-hall-australian-mountaineer-dies-at-56.html |work=The New York Times |access-date=16 May 2017 |issn=0362-4331 |archive-date=26 March 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326113345/https://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/25/world/asia/lincoln-hall-australian-mountaineer-dies-at-56.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The erroneous information of his death was passed on to his family. The next day he was discovered alive by another party.<ref name=":3" />

===2007===
On 21 May 2007, Canadian climber [[Meagan McGrath]] initiated the successful high-altitude rescue of [[Nepal]]i Usha Bista. Major McGrath was selected as a 2011 recipient of the [[Edmund Hillary|Sir Edmund Hillary]] Foundation of Canada Humanitarian Award, which recognises a Canadian who has personally or administratively contributed a significant service or act in the Himalayan Region of Nepal.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thesiredmundhillaryfoundation.ca/ |title=Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation of Canada |publisher=Thesiredmundhillaryfoundation.ca |access-date=15 May 2012 |archive-date=20 July 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220720161417/https://thesiredmundhillaryfoundation.ca/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

===Ascent statistics up to 2010 season===
[[File:EverestAscents.svg|thumb|left|Ascents of Mount Everest by year through 2010]]
[[File:Sunrise over Everest.jpg|thumb|The sun rising on Everest in 2011]]

By the end of the 2010 climbing season, there had been 5,104 ascents to the summit by about 3,142 individuals, with 77 per cent of these ascents being accomplished since 2000.<ref name=8000ers /> The summit was achieved in 7 of the 22 years from 1953 to 1974 and was not missed between 1975 and 2014.<ref name=8000ers /> In 2007, the record number of 633 ascents was recorded, by 350 climbers and 253 [[Sherpa people|sherpas]].<ref name=8000ers />

An illustration of the explosion of popularity of Everest is provided by the numbers of daily ascents. Analysis of the [[1996 Mount Everest disaster]] shows that part of the blame was on the bottleneck caused by a large number of climbers (33 to 36) attempting to summit on the same day; this was considered unusually high at the time. By comparison, on 23 May 2010, the summit of Mount Everest was reached by 169 climbers – more summits in a single day than in the cumulative 31 years from the first successful summit in 1953 through 1983.<ref name=8000ers />

There have been 219 fatalities recorded on Mount Everest from the [[1922 British Mount Everest Expedition]] through the end of 2010, a rate of 4.3 fatalities for every 100 summits (this is a general rate, and includes fatalities amongst support climbers, those who turned back before the peak, those who died en route to the peak and those who died while descending from the peak). Of the 219 fatalities, 58 (26.5 per cent) were climbers who had summited but did not complete their descent.<ref name=8000ers /> Though the rate of fatalities has decreased since the year 2000 (1.4 fatalities for every 100 summits, with 3938 summits since 2000), the significant increase in the total number of climbers still means 54 fatalities since 2000: 33 on the Northeast Ridge, 17 on the Southeast Ridge, 2 on the Southwest Face, and 2 on the North Face.<ref name=8000ers />

Nearly all attempts at the summit are done using one of the two main routes. The traffic seen by each route varies from year to year. In 2005–07, more than half of all climbers elected to use the more challenging, but cheaper northeast route. In 2008, the northeast route was closed by the Chinese government for the entire climbing season, and the only people able to reach the summit from the north that year were athletes responsible for [[2008 Summer Olympics summit of Mt. Everest|carrying the Olympic torch]] for the [[2008 Summer Olympics]].<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/15/world/asia/15nepal.html|title=Nepal Puts Everest Off Limits During China's Olympic Torch Relay in May|work=The New York Times|first=Somini|last=Sengupta|date=15 March 2008|access-date=17 February 2017|archive-date=12 May 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220512190159/https://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/15/world/asia/15nepal.html|url-status=live}}</ref> The route was closed to foreigners once again in 2009 in the run-up to the 50th anniversary of the Dalai Lama's exile.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/china/4806464/China-closes-Tibetan-side-of-Everest-to-climbers-ahead-of-anniversary-of-Dalai-Lamas-exile.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220110/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/china/4806464/China-closes-Tibetan-side-of-Everest-to-climbers-ahead-of-anniversary-of-Dalai-Lamas-exile.html |archive-date=10 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=China closes Tibetan side of Everest to climbers ahead of anniversary of Dalai Lama's exile | work=The Daily Telegraph | first=Malcolm|last=Moore|date=25 February 2009|location=London}}{{cbignore}}</ref> These closures led to declining interest in the north route, and, in 2010, two-thirds of the climbers reached the summit from the south.<ref name=8000ers />

===2010s===
{{main|Mount Everest in 2012|Mount Everest in 2013}}
[[File:Andreas Breitfuss Mt Everest Summit.jpg|thumb|Selfie on the summit, 2012]]
The 2010s were a time of new highs and lows for the mountain, with back-to-back disasters in 2013 and 2014 causing record deaths. In 2015 there were no summits for the first time in decades. However, other years set records for numbers of summits – 2013's record number of summiters, around 667, was surpassed in 2018 with around 800 summiting the peak,<ref name=":0x">{{Cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/05/24/everest-2018-season-summary-record-weather-record-summits/|title=Everest 2018: Season Summary – Record Weather, Record Summits|date=25 May 2018|website=The Blog on alanarnette.com|access-date=22 January 2019|archive-date=15 February 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220215003422/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/05/24/everest-2018-season-summary-record-weather-record-summits/|url-status=live}}</ref> and a subsequent record was set in 2019 with over 890 summiters.<ref name="time5604758">{{Cite magazine|url=https://time.com/5604758/mount-everest-deaths/|title=Greed, Weather and Inexperience: See How Mount Everest's Deadly Season Compares to Past Years|author1=Emily Barone|author2=Lon Tweeten|magazine=Time|access-date=12 June 2019|archive-date=4 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220804181156/https://time.com/5604758/mount-everest-deaths/|url-status=live}}</ref>

{| class="wikitable" style="float:left; margin-right: 0; margin-left: 1em;"
|+Years in review summary
|-
!Year
!Summiters
!References
|-
| 2010
| 543
|<ref name="time5604758"/>
|-
|2011
|538
|<ref name="time5604758"/>
|-
|[[Mount Everest in 2012|2012]]
|547 <!--NGO says 547 in their table-->
|<ref name="NG-20130600" />
|- style="background:#efefef;"
|[[Mount Everest in 2013|2013]]
|658<!--aa-->–670<!--times-->
|<ref name="alanarnette">{{cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/06/03/everest-2013-season-recap/|title=Everest 2013: Season Recap: Summits, Records and Fights|work=alanarnette.com|access-date=29 May 2016|archive-date=27 February 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220227184527/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/06/03/everest-2013-season-recap/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="time5604758"/>
|-
|2014
|106
|<ref name="alanarnette2">{{cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/06/09/everest-2014-season-summary-nepal-tragedy/|title=Everest 2014: Season Summary – A Nepal Tragedy|work=alanarnette.com|access-date=29 May 2016|archive-date=4 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220804212024/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/06/09/everest-2014-season-summary-nepal-tragedy/|url-status=live}}</ref>
|- style="background:#efefef;"
|2015
|0
|<ref name="washingtonpost">{{cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/worldviews/wp/2016/01/12/for-the-first-time-in-42-years-nobody-made-it-to-the-top-of-mount-everest-last-year/|title=For the first time in four decades, nobody made it to the top of Mount Everest last year|author=Peter Holley|date=12 January 2016|newspaper=The Washington Post|access-date=29 May 2016|archive-date=8 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201108100501/https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/worldviews/wp/2016/01/12/for-the-first-time-in-42-years-nobody-made-it-to-the-top-of-mount-everest-last-year/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="time5604758"/>
|-
|[[Mount Everest in 2016|2016]]
|641
|<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/12/30/everest-by-the-numbers-2017-edition/|title=Everest by the Numbers: 2017 Edition|date=30 December 2016|work=alanarnette.com|access-date=24 May 2017|archive-date=30 September 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170930001528/http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/12/30/everest-by-the-numbers-2017-edition/|url-status=live}}</ref>
|-
| [[Mount Everest in 2017|2017]]
|648
|<ref name="telegraph.co.uk1">{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/comment/should-we-stop-climbing-everest/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220110/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/comment/should-we-stop-climbing-everest/ |archive-date=10 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Is it time to ban Western travellers – and their egos – from Mount Everest?|newspaper=The Telegraph |date=4 April 2018 |last1=Parker |first1=Simon }}{{cbignore}}</ref>
|-
| [[Mount Everest in 2018|2018]]
|807
|<ref name=":0x"/><ref name=":0" />
|-
| 2019
|approx. 891
|<ref name="time5604758"/>
|}
{{clear}}

===2014 avalanche and season===
{{main|2014 Mount Everest avalanche}}
[[File:Mt Everest.jpg|thumb|Mount Everest, 2014]]

On 18 April 2014, an avalanche hit the area just below Base Camp 2.<ref name=BBC>{{cite news |url= https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-27075638 |title= Everest avalanche kills at least 12 Sherpa guides |work= BBC News |date= 18 April 2014 |access-date= 18 April 2014 |archive-date= 6 August 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220806161427/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-27075638 |url-status= live }}</ref> Sixteen people were killed (all Nepali guides) and nine more were injured.<ref name=NYr>{{cite news |last= Krakauer |first= Jon |title= Death and Anger on Everest |url= https://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/newsdesk/2014/04/everest-sherpas-death-and-anger.html |access-date= 22 April 2014 |magazine= [[The New Yorker]] |date= 21 April 2014 |quote= Of the twenty-five men hit by the falling ice, sixteen were killed, all of them Nepalis working for guided climbing teams. |archive-date= 21 July 2014 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20140721000827/https://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/newsdesk/2014/04/everest-sherpas-death-and-anger.html |url-status= live }}</ref> In response to the tragedy, numerous Sherpa climbing guides walked off the job and most climbing companies pulled out in respect for the Sherpa people mourning the loss.<ref name=npr>{{cite news|work=NPR|url=https://www.npr.org/sections/parallels/2014/04/24/306390312/injured-sherpa-explains-why-hell-never-climb-mount-everest-again|title=Sherpas Walk Off The Job After Deadly Avalanche|author=McCarthy, Julie|date=24 April 2014|access-date=26 April 2014|archive-date=26 May 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150526072154/http://www.npr.org/sections/parallels/2014/04/24/306390312/injured-sherpa-explains-why-hell-never-climb-mount-everest-again|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=Sherpas Consider Boycott After Everest Disaster|agency=Associated Press|work=NPR|date=21 April 2014|url=https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=305178526|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140421083304/http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=305178526|archive-date=21 April 2014|access-date=26 April 2014}}</ref>

During the season, 13-year-old Malavath Purna reached the summit, becoming the youngest female climber to do so.<ref name="Times of India">{{cite news |url= http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/13-year-old-Andhra-teen-becomes-youngest-woman-to-scale-Everest/articleshow/35598021.cms |work= Times of India |title= 13-year-old Andhra teen becomes the youngest woman to scale Everest |access-date= 25 May 2014 |archive-date= 7 June 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220607160304/https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/13-year-old-Andhra-teen-becomes-youngest-woman-to-scale-Everest/articleshow/35598021.cms |url-status= live }}</ref> One team used a helicopter to fly from South Base Camp to Camp 2 to avoid the Khumbu Icefall, then reached the Everest summit. This team had to use the south side because the Chinese had denied them a permit to climb. A team member ([[Wang Jing (mountaineer)|Jing Wang]]) donated US$30,000 to a local hospital.<ref name="news.nationalgeographic.com" /> She was named the Nepali "International Mountaineer of the Year".<ref name="news.nationalgeographic.com">{{cite web|url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/140805-mount-everest-sherpa-mountain-climbing-jing-wang-avalanche |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210225165537/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/140805-mount-everest-sherpa-mountain-climbing-jing-wang-avalanche |url-status=dead |archive-date=25 February 2021 |title= Woman Whose Post-Avalanche Everest Ascent Sparked Outrage Defends Her Feat |website= National Geographic |date= 6 August 2014 |access-date=20 September 2015}}</ref>

{{anchor|Jing Wang}}
[[File:Everest3d qbd 2014116.jpg|thumb|upright 1.5|left|The location of the fatal ice avalanche on the 2014 route, and the revised 2015 route through the Khumbu]]<!-- this non-standard image needs to be this large to read text-->
{{clear}}
Over 100 people summited Everest from China (Tibet region), and six from Nepal in the 2014 season.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/06/09/everest-2014-season-summary-nepal-tragedy/ |title= Everest 2014: Season Summary – A Nepal Tragedy |website= alanarnette.com |format= Blog |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 4 August 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220804212024/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/06/09/everest-2014-season-summary-nepal-tragedy/ |url-status= live }}</ref> This included 72-year-old Bill Burke, the Indian teenage girl, and a Chinese woman Jing Wang.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/05/23/everest-2014-first-summits/ |title= Everest 2014: Summits – Update 6 |website= alanarnette.com |format= Blog |access-date= 18 May 2016 |archive-date= 4 August 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220804212241/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/05/23/everest-2014-first-summits/ |url-status= live }}</ref> Another teen girl summiter was [[Ming Kipa]] Sherpa who summited with her elder sister [[Lhakpa Sherpa]] in 2003, and who had achieved the most times for woman to the summit of Mount Everest at that time.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2003/may/25/everest.nepal |title=Teenage girl conquers Everest, 50 years on |author=Luke Harding |website=The Guardian |date=25 May 2003 |access-date=17 June 2016 |archive-date=3 December 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131203121448/http://www.theguardian.com/world/2003/may/25/everest.nepal |url-status=live }}</ref> (see also [[Santosh Yadav]])

===2015 avalanche, earthquake, season===
{{main|2015 Mount Everest avalanches}}
[[File:Everest from Kalatop April 2015.jpg|thumb|Everest, April 2015]]

2015 was set to be a record-breaking season of climbs, with hundreds of permits issued in Nepal and many additional permits in Tibet (China). However, on 25 April 2015, an [[April 2015 Nepal earthquake|earthquake measuring 7.8]] [[Moment magnitude scale|M<sub>w</sub>]] triggered an avalanche that hit [[Everest Base Camp]],<ref>{{cite news |title= Everest Climbers Are Killed as Nepal Quake Sets Off Avalanche |url= https://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/26/world/asia/everest-climbers-killed-as-nepal-quake-sets-off-avalanche.html |author= Gardiner Harris |work= [[The New York Times]] |date= 25 April 2015 |access-date= 23 December 2015 |archive-date= 14 November 2017 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20171114202007/https://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/26/world/asia/everest-climbers-killed-as-nepal-quake-sets-off-avalanche.html |url-status= live }}</ref> effectively shutting down the Everest climbing season.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/05/06/everest-2015-season-summary-summits-dont-matter-2/ |title=Everest 2015: Season Summary – Summits Don't Matter |website=alanarnette.com |format=Blog |access-date=20 September 2015 |archive-date=4 August 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220804205212/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2015/05/06/everest-2015-season-summary-summits-dont-matter-2/ |url-status=live }}</ref> 18 bodies were recovered from Mount Everest by the Indian Army mountaineering team.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/world/south-asia/Avalanche-triggered-by-quake-kills-18-on-Mount-Everest/articleshow/47055195.cms|website=The Times of India|title=Avalanche triggered by quake kills 18 on Mount Everest|access-date=26 April 2015|archive-date=28 April 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150428194807/http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/world/south-asia/Avalanche-triggered-by-quake-kills-18-on-Mount-Everest/articleshow/47055195.cms|url-status=live}}</ref> The avalanche began on [[Pumori]],<ref>{{cite magazine |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224201012/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/150425-everest-earthquake-basecamp-nepal-himalaya-climbing-sherpa|archive-date=24 February 2021|url= https://www.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/04/150425-everest-earthquake-basecamp-nepal-himalaya-climbing-sherpa/ |title= Everest Base Camp a 'War Zone' After Earthquake Triggers Avalanches |magazine= National Geographic |access-date= 26 April 2015}}</ref> moved through the [[Khumbu Icefall]] on the southwest side of Mount Everest, and slammed into the [[Everest Base Camp#South Base Camp in Nepal|South Base Camp]].<ref>{{cite news |url= https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2015/04/25/cfa47ee6-eb95-11e4-9a6a-c1ab95a0600b_story.html?hpid=z2 |title= 10 confirmed dead in Mount Everest avalanche, but toll expected to rise |date= 25 April 2015 |newspaper= The Washington Post |access-date= 25 April 2015 |archive-date= 2 April 2019 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20190402144807/https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2015/04/25/cfa47ee6-eb95-11e4-9a6a-c1ab95a0600b_story.html?hpid=z2 |url-status= live }}</ref> 2015 was the first time since 1974 with no spring summits, as all climbing teams pulled out after the quakes and avalanche.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://snowbrains.com/everest-will-not-be-climbed-for-first-time-since-1974/ |title= Mt. Everest Will Not Be Climbed for First Time Since 1974 |website= snowbrains.com |date= 5 May 2015 |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 19 May 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220519143653/https://snowbrains.com/everest-will-not-be-climbed-for-first-time-since-1974/ |url-status= live }}</ref><ref name="WillEverest"/> One of the reasons for this was the high probability of aftershocks (over 50 per cent according to the [[United States Geological Survey]]).<ref>{{cite web |url= http://snowbrains.com/no-one-will-climb-everest-this-year/ |title= No One Will Climb Everest This Year – The Last Team Pulls Out |website= snowbrains.com |date= 2 May 2015 |format= Blog |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 28 April 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220428111912/https://snowbrains.com/no-one-will-climb-everest-this-year/ |url-status= live }}</ref> Just weeks after the first quake, the region was rattled again by a 7.3 magnitude quake and there were also [[list of aftershocks of April 2015 Nepal earthquake|many considerable aftershocks]].<ref>{{cite web |url= http://theconversation.com/nepal-earthquake-such-huge-aftershocks-are-rare-41833 |title= Nepal earthquake: such huge aftershocks are rare |author= Nick Rawlinson |date= 15 May 2015 |website= The Conversation |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 3 June 2023 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20230603173739/https://theconversation.com/nepal-earthquake-such-huge-aftershocks-are-rare-41833 |url-status= live }}</ref>

The quakes trapped hundreds of climbers above the Khumbu icefall, and they had to be evacuated by helicopter as they ran low on supplies.<ref name="supplies">{{cite news|url=https://www.foxnews.com/world/trapped-at-20000-feet-hundreds-of-everest-climbers-await-choppers-as-supplies-run-low/|work=Fox News|title=Trapped at 20,000 feet: Hundreds of Everest climbers await choppers as supplies run low|access-date=20 June 2015|archive-date=11 December 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151211092708/http://www.foxnews.com/world/2015/04/26/8-dead-as-quake-triggered-avalanche-sweeps-everest-in-nepal/|url-status=live}}</ref> The quake shifted the route through the ice fall, making it essentially impassable to climbers.<ref name="supplies"/> Bad weather also made helicopter evacuation difficult.<ref name="supplies"/> The Everest tragedy was small compared to the impact overall on Nepal, with almost nine thousand dead<ref name=drrportal>{{cite web |url= http://drrportal.gov.np/ |website= Nepal Disaster Risk Reduction Portal, drrportal.gov.np |title= Incident Report of Earthquake 2015 |access-date= 28 May 2015 |archive-date= 24 October 2021 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20211024022604/http://drrportal.gov.np/ |url-status= live }}</ref><ref name="D2015">{{cite web |url= http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/world/south-asia/Nepal-earthquake-death-toll-rises-to-8413/articleshow/47187088.cms |title= Nepal earthquake death toll rises to 8,413 |date= 7 May 2015 |website= The Times of India |access-date= 9 May 2015 |url-status= dead |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20150509190440/http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/world/south-asia/Nepal-earthquake-death-toll-rises-to-8413/articleshow/47187088.cms |archive-date= 9 May 2015 |df= dmy-all }}</ref> and about 22,000 injured.<ref name=drrportal/> In Tibet, by 28 April at least 25 had died, and 117 were injured.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.business-standard.com/article/pti-stories/tibet-quake-toll-rises-to-25-117-injured-115042800106_1.html |title= Nepal quake: Death toll rises to 25 in Tibet; 117 injured |agency= Press Trust of India |date= 28 April 2015 |work= Business Standard |access-date= 17 June 2016 |archive-date= 28 February 2021 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20210228040012/http://www.business-standard.com/article/pti-stories/tibet-quake-toll-rises-to-25-117-injured-115042800106_1.html |url-status= live }}</ref> By 29 April 2015, the Tibet Mountaineering Association (North/Chinese side) closed Everest and other peaks to climbing, stranding 25 teams and about 300 people on the north side of Everest.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.outsideonline.com/1974091/breaking-north-side-everest-closing |title= North Side of Everest Closing |website= Outside |date= 29 April 2015 |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 25 February 2021 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20210225094452/https://www.outsideonline.com/1974091/breaking-north-side-everest-closing |url-status= live }}</ref> On the south side, helicopters evacuated 180 people trapped at Camps 1 and 2.<ref>{{cite web |url= https://www.smh.com.au/world/nepal-earthquake-hopes-fade-for-survivors-180-rescued-on-mount-everest-20150427-1mungw.html |title= Nepal earthquake: Hopes fade for survivors; 180 rescued on Mount Everest |website= The Sydney Morning Herald |date= 27 April 2015 |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 25 September 2015 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20150925022839/http://www.smh.com.au/world/nepal-earthquake-hopes-fade-for-survivors-180-rescued-on-mount-everest-20150427-1mungw.html |url-status= live }}</ref>

On 24 August 2015, Nepal re-opened Everest to tourism including mountain climbers.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.dw.com/en/mount-everest-opens-for-business/a-18668065 |title= Mount Everest opens for business |website= Deutsche Welle |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 26 March 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072824/https://www.dw.com/en/mount-everest-opens-for-business/a-18668065 |url-status= live }}</ref> The only climber permit for the autumn season was awarded to Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki, who had tried four times previously to summit Everest without success. He made his fifth attempt in October, but had to give up just {{cvt|700|m}} from the summit due to "strong winds and deep snow".<ref>{{cite web |url= https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/oct/08/japanese-climber-with-no-fingertips-abandons-bid-to-scale-everest |title= Japanese climber with no fingertips abandons bid to scale Everest |website= The Guardian |date= 8 October 2015 |access-date= 12 December 2016 |archive-date= 14 May 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220514081833/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/oct/08/japanese-climber-with-no-fingertips-abandons-bid-to-scale-everest |url-status= live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url= https://time.com/4007494/nepal-everest-climbers/ |title= Everest Reopened to Climbers |author= Tanya Basu |magazine= Time |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-date= 26 March 2022 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072826/https://time.com/4007494/nepal-everest-climbers/ |url-status= live }}</ref>

Some sections of the trail from Lukla to Everest Base Camp (Nepal) were damaged in the earthquakes earlier in the year and needed repairs to handle trekkers.<ref>{{cite web |url= https://www.foxnews.com/world/4-sections-of-trekking-route-to-mount-everest-were-damaged-by-earthquake-assessment-finds/ |title= 4 sections of trekking route to Mount Everest were damaged by earthquake, assessment finds |website= Fox News |date= 7 August 2015 |access-date= 20 September 2015 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20150924191426/http://www.foxnews.com/world/2015/08/07/4-sections-trekking-route-to-mount-everest-were-damaged-by-earthquake/ |archive-date= 24 September 2015 |url-status=live}}</ref>

===2016 season===
{{main|Mount Everest in 2016}}
Hawley's database records 641 made it to the summit in early 2016.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2016%20Season%20Lists/2016%20Spring%20A16.html|title=Himalayan Database Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley|website=www.himalayandatabase.com|access-date=16 April 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326113550/http://www.himalayandatabase.com/2016%20Season%20Lists/2016%20Spring%20A16.html|url-status=live}}</ref>

===2017 season===
{{main|Mount Everest in 2017}}
2017 was the biggest season yet, permit-wise, yielding hundreds of summiters and a handful of deaths.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/25/everest-2017-south-col-dead-body-report-wrong/ |title=Everest 2017: South Col Dead Body Report was Wrong |date=25 May 2017 |website=Alanarnette |access-date=23 October 2017 |archive-date=27 September 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210927165359/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/05/25/everest-2017-south-col-dead-body-report-wrong/ |url-status=live }}</ref> On 27 May 2017, [[Kami Rita]] made his 21st climb to the summit with the Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, one of three people in the World along with [[Apa Sherpa]] and [[Phurba Tashi|Phurba Tashi Sherpa]] to make it to the summit of Mount Everest 21 times.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/kami-rita-sherpa-scales-mt-everest-21-times/ |title=Kami Rita Sherpa scales Mt Everest 21 times |newspaper=[[The Himalayan Times]] |access-date=27 May 2017 |date=27 May 2017 |first=Rajan |last=Pokhrel |archive-date=8 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210508131331/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/kami-rita-sherpa-scales-mt-everest-21-times/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.thehindu.com/news/international/nepalese-sherpa-scales-everest-for-record-21-times/article18589634.ece |title=Nepalese Sherpa scales Everest for record 21 times |last=PTI |newspaper=[[The Hindu]] |access-date=27 May 2017 |date=27 May 2017 |archive-date=12 November 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201112002729/https://www.thehindu.com/news/international/nepalese-sherpa-scales-everest-for-record-21-times/article18589634.ece |url-status=live }}</ref> The season had a tragic start with the death of [[Ueli Steck]] of Switzerland, who died from a fall during a warm-up climb.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2017/05/01/ueli-steck-famed-swiss-mountain-climber-dead-after-plunging-3280-feet-near-mt-everest/ |title=Ueli Steck, famed Swiss mountain climber, dead after plunging 3,280 feet near Mount Everest |first=Katie |last=Mettler |date=1 May 2017 |access-date=23 October 2017 |newspaper=[[Washington Post]] |archive-date=26 October 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191026105041/https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2017/05/01/ueli-steck-famed-swiss-mountain-climber-dead-after-plunging-3280-feet-near-mt-everest/ |url-status=live }}</ref> There was a continued discussion about the nature of possible changes to the [[Hillary Step]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-05-22/mount-everest-hillary-step-collapses/8546086 |title=Mount Everest's famed Hillary Step collapses |date=22 May 2017 |website=[[ABC Online]] |access-date=23 October 2017 |publisher=[[ABC News (Australia)|ABC News]] |archive-date=6 August 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220806161456/https://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-05-22/mount-everest-hillary-step-collapses/8546086 |url-status=live }}</ref> Total summiters for 2017 was tallied up to be 648.<ref name="telegraph.co.uk1"/> 449 summited via Nepal (from the South) and 120 from Chinese Tibet (North side).<ref name="indiatimes.com">{{cite news |url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/world/south-asia/first-climbers-of-2018-reach-mount-everest-summit/articleshow/64148121.cms |title=First climbers of 2018 reach Mount Everest summit |newspaper=[[Times of India]] |publisher=[[Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd.]] |author=AFP |author-link=American Free Press |date=13 May 2018 |access-date=25 August 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180514185642/https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com//world/south-asia/first-climbers-of-2018-reach-mount-everest-summit/articleshow/64148121.cms |archive-date=14 May 2018 |url-status=live}}</ref>

===2018===
{{main|Mount Everest in 2018}}
[[File:Nepal 2018-03-27 (40012222680).jpg|thumb|Mount Everest in the upper left (March 2018)]]
807 climbers summited Mount Everest in 2018,<ref name=":4" /> including 563 on the Nepal side and 240 from the Chinese Tibet side.<ref name=":0x"/> This broke the previous record for total summits in year from which was 667 in 2013, and one factor that aided in this was an especially long and clear weather window of 11 days during the critical spring climbing season.<ref name=":0x"/><ref name="auto5">{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/shortcuts/2018/jun/04/peak-climbing-everest-awful-chris-bonington|title=Is climbing Everest today as 'awful' as Chris Bonington says?|last=Douglas|first=Ed|date=4 June 2018|work=The Guardian|access-date=22 January 2019|issn=0261-3077|archive-date=14 May 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220514081833/https://www.theguardian.com/world/shortcuts/2018/jun/04/peak-climbing-everest-awful-chris-bonington|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2393183/mount-everest-2019-preview|title=What to Watch for on Everest This Year|last=Arnette|first=Alan|date=4 April 2019|website=Outside Online|access-date=10 April 2019|archive-date=10 July 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230710045637/https://www.outsideonline.com/2393183/mount-everest-2019-preview|url-status=live}}</ref> Various records were broken, including a summit by double-amputee [[Xia Boyu]], who undertook his climb after winning a court case in the Nepali Supreme Court.<ref name=":0x"/> There were no major disasters, but seven climbers including sherpas as well as international climbers, died in various situations.<ref name=":0x"/> Although record numbers of climbers reached the summit, old-time summiters that made expeditions in the 1980s lamented the crowding, feces, and cost.<ref name="auto5"/>

Figures for the number of permits issued by Nepal range from 347<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/everest/reference/climbing-mount-everest/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190205233431/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/everest/reference/climbing-mount-everest/|url-status=dead|archive-date=5 February 2019|title=Want to climb Mount Everest? Here's what you need to know|first=Freddie|last=Wilkinson|date=22 January 2019|publisher=National Geographic|access-date=11 June 2023}}</ref> to 375.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://kathmandupost.ekantipur.com/news/2018-04-11/2018-everest-season-starts-with-fresh-hopes-dreams.html|title=2018 Everest season starts with fresh hopes, dreams|newspaper=Kathmandu Post|first=Sangam|last=Prasain|date=11 April 2018|access-date=30 May 2019|archive-date=30 May 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190530004455/https://kathmandupost.ekantipur.com/news/2018-04-11/2018-everest-season-starts-with-fresh-hopes-dreams.html|url-status=live}}</ref>

===2019===
{| class="wikitable collapsible sortable floatright collapsed" style="font-size: 90%; "
|-
! style="text-align:center;" colspan="2"|2019 fatalities<ref name="upi.com">{{Cite web|url=https://www.upi.com/Top_News/World-News/2019/05/27/Mount-Everest-death-toll-increases-to-11-after-American-dies/5961558993369/|title=Mount Everest death toll increases to 11 after American dies|website=UPI|access-date=28 May 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326154856/https://www.upi.com/Top_News/World-News/2019/05/27/Mount-Everest-death-toll-increases-to-11-after-American-dies/5961558993369/|url-status=live}}</ref>
|-
![[List of people who died climbing Mount Everest|Fatalities]]
!Nationality
|-
|Chris Daly
|{{flagcountry|USA}}
|-
|Donald Cash
|{{flagcountry|USA}}
|-
|Robin Fisher
|{{Flagcountry|United Kingdom}}
|-
|Druba Bista
|{{Flagcountry|Nepal}}
|-
| Kevin Hynes
|{{Flagcountry|Ireland}}
|-
|Kalpana Dash
|{{Flagcountry|India}}
|-
|Anjali S. Kulkarni
|{{flagcountry|India}}
|-
|Ernst Landgraf
|{{flagcountry|Austria}}
|-
|Nihal Bagwan
|{{flagcountry|India}}
|-
|Ravi Thakar
|{{flagcountry|India}}
|-
|Chris Kulish
|{{flagcountry|USA}}
|-
| Séamus Lawless*<ref name="Slater">{{Cite news|url=https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/memorial-service-to-be-held-for-everest-climber-shay-lawless-1.3904626|title=Memorial service to be held for Everest climber Shay Lawless|last=Slater|first=Sarah|newspaper=The Irish Times|access-date=29 May 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072829/https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/memorial-service-to-be-held-for-everest-climber-shay-lawless-1.3904626|url-status=live}}</ref>
|{{Flagcountry|Ireland}}
|-
|colspan="2" style="text-align: center;"|''*Declared dead after missing''
|}

The spring or pre-monsoon window for 2019 witnessed the deaths of a number of climbers. Worldwide publication of images of hundreds of mountaineers queuing to reach the summit and sensational media reports of climbers stepping over dead bodies dismayed people around the world.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://theconversation.com/death-on-everest-the-boom-in-climbing-tourism-is-dangerous-and-unsustainable-114033|title=Death on Everest: the boom in climbing tourism is dangerous and unsustainable|first=Yana|last=Wengel|website=The Conversation|date=7 June 2019|access-date=7 June 2019|archive-date=13 May 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220513154218/https://theconversation.com/death-on-everest-the-boom-in-climbing-tourism-is-dangerous-and-unsustainable-114033|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://coloradosun.com/2019/06/06/peter-lowry-colorado-mount-everest-deaths/|title=Colorado climber stepped over newly dead bodies to summit Everest. He's still wrestling with what it all means.|date=6 June 2019|website=The Colorado Sun|access-date=7 June 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326072850/https://coloradosun.com/2019/06/06/peter-lowry-colorado-mount-everest-deaths/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.cbsnews.com/news/mount-everest-deaths-climber-describes-traffic-jams-and-corpses/|title=Climber describes scene in Everest's "death zone": Traffic jams and corpses|website=www.cbsnews.com|date=28 May 2019|access-date=7 June 2019|archive-date=13 July 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220713161346/https://www.cbsnews.com/news/mount-everest-deaths-climber-describes-traffic-jams-and-corpses/|url-status=live}}</ref>

There were reports of various winter expeditions in the Himalayas, including K2, Nanga Parbat, and Meru with the buzz for the Everest 2019 beginning just 14 weeks to the weather window.<ref name="auto6">{{Cite web|url=http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/01/06/2018-19-winter-climbs-k2-climbers-en-route-nanga-climbers-climbing/|title=2018/19 Winter Climbs: K2 Climbers en route, Nanga Climbers Climbing, New Everest Route?|date=7 January 2019|website=The Blog on alanarnette.com|access-date=23 January 2019|archive-date=27 September 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210927163646/https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2019/01/06/2018-19-winter-climbs-k2-climbers-en-route-nanga-climbers-climbing/|url-status=live}}</ref> Noted climber Cory Richards announced on Twitter that he was hoping to establish a new climbing route to the summit in 2019.<ref name="auto6"/> Also announced was an expedition to re-measure the height of Everest, particularly in light of the 2015 earthquakes.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/04/09/nepalese-team-measure-mount-everest-amid-concerns-peak-has-shrunk/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220110/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/04/09/nepalese-team-measure-mount-everest-amid-concerns-peak-has-shrunk/ |archive-date=10 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Nepalese team to measure Mount Everest amid concerns it has shrunk following earthquake|last=Wallen|first=Joe|date=9 April 2019|work=The Telegraph|access-date=10 April 2019|issn=0307-1235}}{{cbignore}}</ref><ref>{{Cite magazine|url=https://time.com/5566400/nepalese-climbers-remeasuring-everest/|title=Nepalese Climbers to Remeasure Mount Everest|magazine=Time|access-date=10 April 2019|archive-date=27 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211227180150/https://time.com/5566400/nepalese-climbers-remeasuring-everest/|url-status=live}}</ref> China closed the base-camp to those without climbing permits in February 2019 on the northern side of Mount Everest.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-47249141|title=China closes Everest base camp to tourists|date=15 February 2019|access-date=24 May 2019|archive-date=9 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220809161240/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-47249141|url-status=live}}</ref> By early April, climbing teams from around the world were arriving for the 2019 spring climbing season.<ref name=":0" /> Among the teams was a scientific expedition with a planned study of pollution, and how things like snow and vegetation influence the availability of food and water in the region.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/kidspost/american-scientists-to-climb-mount-everest-to-study-pollution/2019/03/27/9e56172c-41c8-11e9-922c-64d6b7840b82_story.html|title=American scientists to climb Mount Everest to study pollution|newspaper=Washington Post|access-date=10 April 2019|archive-date=26 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201126234525/https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/kidspost/american-scientists-to-climb-mount-everest-to-study-pollution/2019/03/27/9e56172c-41c8-11e9-922c-64d6b7840b82_story.html|url-status=live}}</ref> In the 2019 spring mountaineering season, there were roughly 40 teams with almost 400 climbers and several hundred guides attempting to summit on the Nepali side.<ref name="nbcrita">{{Cite web|url=https://www.nbcnews.com/news/world/sherpa-guide-kami-rita-climbs-mount-everest-24th-time-extends-n1008186|title=Mountaineer extends record by climbing Everest for 24th time|website=NBC News|date=21 May 2019|access-date=22 May 2019|archive-date=26 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220826202812/https://www.nbcnews.com/news/world/sherpa-guide-kami-rita-climbs-mount-everest-24th-time-extends-n1008186|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="cnnrita">{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnn.com/2019/05/21/asia/nepal-everest-record-scli-intl/index.html|title=Sherpa summits Everest a record 24th time|author=Emily Dixon and Sugam Pokharel|website=CNN|date=21 May 2019|access-date=22 May 2019|archive-date=29 June 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220629082340/https://www.cnn.com/2019/05/21/asia/nepal-everest-record-scli-intl/index.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="bbcrita">{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-48346341|title=Sherpa sets record with 24th Everest summit|date=21 May 2019|work=BBC News|access-date=22 May 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326113614/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-48346341|url-status=live}}</ref> Nepal issued 381 climbing permits for 2019.<ref name=":4">{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-48395241|title=Three more die on Everest amid overcrowding|work=BBC News|date=24 May 2019|access-date=24 May 2019|archive-date=15 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220815192224/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-48395241|url-status=live}}</ref> For the northern routes in Chinese Tibet, several hundred more permits were issued for climbing by authorities there.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/chinese-everest-permits-slashed-by-33/|title=Chinese Everest Permits Slashed By 33%|website=Rock and Ice|date=28 January 2019|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326113633/https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/chinese-everest-permits-slashed-by-33/|url-status=live}}</ref>

In May 2019, Nepali mountaineering guide Kami Rita summited Mount Everest twice within a week, his 23rd and 24th ascents, making international news headlines.<ref name=":1">{{cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/2019/05/21/sherpa-climbs-everest-twice-week-breaks-his-record-with-his-th-ascent/|title=Sherpa climbs Everest twice in a week, breaks his record with his 24th ascent|newspaper=Washington Post|access-date=22 May 2019|archive-date=18 April 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220418081121/https://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/2019/05/21/sherpa-climbs-everest-twice-week-breaks-his-record-with-his-th-ascent/|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="nbcrita"/><ref name="cnnrita"/> He first summited Everest in 1994, and has summited several other extremely high mountains, such as K2 and Lhotse.<ref name="nbcrita"/><ref name="cnnrita"/><ref name="bbcrita"/><ref name=":1"/>

By 23 May 2019, about seven people had died, possibly due to crowding leading to delays high on the mountain, and shorter weather windows.<ref name=":4" /> One 19-year-old who summited previously noted that when the weather window opens, long lines form as everyone rushes to get the top and back down.<ref>{{Cite web|url = https://www.news.com.au/travel/travel-updates/incidents/four-reasons-why-things-have-turned-horrific-on-mt-everest/news-story/ab1786ea070a1d0a8ccf75befb9aa1d0|title = Aussie climber says Nepal needs to act after horror season on Everest| work=news |date = 29 May 2019|access-date = 30 May 2019|archive-date = 25 October 2021|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20211025053042/https://www.news.com.au/travel/travel-updates/incidents/four-reasons-why-things-have-turned-horrific-on-mt-everest/news-story/ab1786ea070a1d0a8ccf75befb9aa1d0|url-status = live}}</ref> In Chinese Tibet, one Austrian climber died from a fall,<ref name=":4" /> and by 26 May 2019 the overall number of deaths for the spring climbing season rose to 10.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.foxnews.com/great-outdoors/british-climber-dies-on-mount-everest-death-toll-reaches-10|title=British climber dies on Mount Everest; death toll reaches 10|last=Aaro|first=David|date=25 May 2019|website=Fox News|access-date=26 May 2019|archive-date=26 March 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220326113614/https://www.foxnews.com/great-outdoors/british-climber-dies-on-mount-everest-death-toll-reaches-10|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=":5">{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/25/world/asia/everest-death-traffic-jam.html|title=British Climber Dies on Everest as Traffic Jam's Toll Rises to 10|last1=Sharma|first1=Bhadra|date=25 May 2019|work=The New York Times|access-date=26 May 2019|last2=Mashal|first2=Mujib|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=12 July 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220712072323/https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/25/world/asia/everest-death-traffic-jam.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>[https://www.cnn.com/2019/05/26/asia/mount-everest-warning-scli-intl-gbr/index.html Everest mountaineer warned of overcrowding before dying on climb] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220809185110/https://www.cnn.com/2019/05/26/asia/mount-everest-warning-scli-intl-gbr/index.html |date=9 August 2022 }} ''www.cnn.com'', accessed 12 December 2020</ref> By 28 May, the death toll increased to 11 when a climber died at about {{convert|26,000|ft|m|order=flip|abbr=on}} during the descent,<ref name="upi.com"/> and a 12th climber missing and presumed dead.<ref name="Slater"/> Despite the number of deaths, reports indicated that a record 891 climbers summited in the spring 2019 climbing season.<ref name=":6" /><ref name="time5604758"/>

Although China has had various permit restrictions, and Nepal requires a doctor to sign off on climbing permits,<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|url=https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2019/05/29/mount-everest-deaths-traffic-jam-blame-why-such-deadly-season/1258092001/|title=What's causing Mount Everest's deadly season? Overcrowding, inexperience and a long line to the top|website=USA Today|access-date=29 May 2019|archive-date=21 August 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220821023947/https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2019/05/29/mount-everest-deaths-traffic-jam-blame-why-such-deadly-season/1258092001/|url-status=live}}</ref> the natural dangers of climbing such as falls and avalanches combined with medical issues aggravated by Everest's extreme altitude led to 2019 being a year with a comparatively high death toll.<ref name=":6" />

=== 2020s ===
Both Nepal and China prohibited foreign climbing groups during the 2020 season, due to the [[COVID-19 pandemic]]. 2020 was the third year in this decade after 2014 and 2015 which saw no summits from the Nepal (South) Side.<ref>{{Cite web|date=13 March 2020|title=COVID-19 shuts down Everest|url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2020/03/will-coronavirus-shut-down-everest/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200314191538/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2020/03/will-coronavirus-shut-down-everest/|url-status=dead|archive-date=14 March 2020|access-date=19 September 2020|website=Adventure}}</ref>

A team of Chinese surveyors climbed Mount Everest from the North side during April–May 2020, becoming the only climbers to summit the world's highest peak during the pandemic, at least through May. The team was there to re-measure the height of Mount Everest.<ref>{{cite news|last=Khadka|first=Navin Singh|date=27 May 2020|title=Chinese team scale Everest during pandemic|work=BBC News|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-52819738|access-date=31 January 2021|archive-date=31 May 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230531185450/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-52819738|url-status=live}}</ref>

On 12 May 2022, the first all-Black team summited Mount Everest. Seven men and two women climbers from the U.S. and Kenya, guided by eight sherpas, comprised the expedition.<ref>{{cite web | last=Cluff | first=Jilli | title=Mt. Everest History: First All-Black Expedition Team Summits World's Highest Peak | website=GearJunkie | date=12 May 2022 | url=https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/full-circle-everest-all-black-summit | access-date=13 May 2022 | archive-date=12 April 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230412051401/https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/full-circle-everest-all-black-summit | url-status=live }}</ref>

On 15 May 2025, [[Nick Symmonds]], a retired American middle distance runner, reached the summit, thus becoming the first person to both summit Mount Everest and run a [[Four-minute mile|sub four-minute mile]]. Symmonds holds a 3:56.72 mile personal best that he set in 2007.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2025-05-16 |title=King of the Side Quests: Olympian Nick Symmonds Just Climbed Mount Everest |url=https://www.runnersworld.com/news/a64792990/nick-symmonds-climbs-mount-everest/ |access-date=2025-05-16 |website=Runner's World |language=en-US}}</ref>

On 18 May 2025, British mountaineer Kenton Cool completed his 19th ascent of Mount Everest, breaking his own record for the most ascents of the world's highest mountain by a non-Sherpa guide.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Press |first=Associated |date=2025-05-18 |title=British mountaineer breaks his own record for most Everest climbs by a non-Nepali |url=https://edition.cnn.com/2025/05/18/travel/kenton-cool-everest-summit-record-intl-hnk |access-date=2025-05-19 |website=CNN |language=en}}</ref>