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==Picking (weft insertion)== {{anchor|Weft insertion|picking}} [[File:Lautanauha weaving.jpg|thumb|Shuttleless tablet weaving, Finland ([[:File:Lautanauha pattern change.JPG|image of finished band]]).]] <!--[[File:History of Inventions USNM 30 Shuttle.png|thumb|A selection of shuttles.]]--> The weft may be passed across the shed as a ball of yarn, but usually this is too bulky and unergonomic. Shuttles are designed to be slim, so they pass through the shed; to carry a lot of yarn, so the weaver does not need to refill them too often; and to be an ergonomic size and shape for the particular weaver, loom, and yarn. They may also be designed for low friction. ===Stick shuttles=== ====Unnotched stick shuttles==== At their simplest, these are just sticks wrapped with yarn. They may be specially shaped, as with the bobbins and bones used in tapestry-making (bobbins are used on vertical warps, and bones on horizontal ones).<ref>{{cite web |title=Tapestry Weaving with Soumak |url=https://betweenandetc.com/product/tapestry-weaving-with-soumak/ |website=Between and Etc.}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Churchill Candee |first1=Helen |title=The Tapestry Book |date=1912 |publisher=Fredrick A. Stokes |edition=The Project Gutenberg eBook [EBook #26151] |url=https://www.gutenberg.org/files/26151/26151-h/26151-h.htm}}</ref> <gallery mode="packed"> File:Greekurnwithweavers (cropped to warp-weighted loom).jpg|Shuttles are passed, not thrown, through [[warp-weighted loom]]s. These Ancient Greek weavers have a yarn-wrapped stick.<ref name=Pakenham>Article describing the experimental reconstruction of the 6th-7th century [http://suffolkinstitute.pdfsrv.co.uk/customers/Suffolk%20Institute/2014/01/10/Volume%20XXXIX%20Part%203%20(1999)_Anglo-Saxon%20loom%20from%20Pakenham%20Suffolk%20S%20J%20Plunkett_273%20to%20298.pdf#search=loom Anglo-Saxon warp-weighted loom from Pakenham, Suffolk]</ref> File:Rea-Menzies in studio.jpg|Tapestry bobbins are used on vertical-warp looms. File:Nécessaire du licier (haute lice).jpg|Tapestry bobbins, empty and full Principaux outils de la tapisserie de basse lisse sur le métier à tisser (flûtes, grattoir, peigne, poinçon).jpg|Tapestry bones are used on horizontal-warp looms File:Chantier de fouilles à Morigny-Champigny en juin 2012 24 (cropped to bones).jpg|Tapestry bones actually made from [[cannonbone]]s (those in the last image are wooden) File:Dhaka weaving machine.JPG|Paper quills (paper bobbins) used as tapestry bones in [[Dhaka]], Bangladesh. </gallery> ===Notched stick shuttles, rag shuttles, and ski shuttles=== <gallery mode="packed"> File:Navette tess.JPG| <!--File:Abydos-Bold-hieroglyph-V27.png|Shuttle hieroglyph--> File:RugMakingWomanPassesShuttle (cropped).jpg|Stick shuttles must be passed, not thrown, which is inconvenient for wide warps. File:Chantier de fouilles à Morigny-Champigny en juin 2012 20.jpg|Belt or band shuttle, a short shuttle used for inkle weaving. This extra-sturdy shuttle is also used at a batten, to beat the newly woven weft against the previously woven fell.<ref name=schacht>{{cite web |title=Choosing the Right Shuttle for the Job |url=https://schachtspindle.com/blog/choosing-the-right-shuttle-for-the-job/ |website=Schacht Spindle Company |date=20 December 2021}}</ref> File:Weaving tool (AM 8823-1).jpg|Netting shuttle.<ref name=stickflatrag>{{cite magazine |last1=Moncreif |first1=Liz |title=Choosing and Using Shuttles: Stick Shuttles, Flat Shuttles, and Rag Shuttles |url=https://handwovenmagazine.com/choosing-and-using-shuttles-stick-shuttles-flat-shuttles-and-rag-shuttles/ |magazine=Handwoven Magazine |access-date=12 January 2023 |language=en}}</ref> Also used for [[netting]]. File:Väv, Mattgarnsskyttel.jpg|Ski shuttle.<ref name=rugski>{{cite magazine |last1=Moncreif |first1=Liz |title=Choosing and Using Shuttles: Rug and Ski |url=https://handwovenmagazine.com/choosing-and-using-shuttles-rug-and-ski/ |magazine=Handwoven Magazine |access-date=12 January 2023 |language=en}}</ref> Weavers at work LOC 2163450764 (cropped to rag shuttle).jpg|A rag shuttle has two skis; it is used for weaving strips of rag into carpets, whence the name.<ref name=stickflatrag/> File:Stick shuttles.jpg|Stick shuttles wound in a figure-of-eight. </gallery> ===Boat shuttles=== Boat shuttles may be closed (central hollow with a solid bottom) or open (central hole goes right through). The yarn may be side-feed or end-feed.<ref name=boat>{{cite magazine |last1=Moncreif |first1=Liz |title=Choosing and Using Shuttles—Boat Shuttles, Bobbins, and Quills |url=https://handwovenmagazine.com/choosing-and-using-shuttles-boat-shuttles-bobbins-and-quills/ |magazine=Handwoven Magazine |access-date=12 January 2023 |language=en}}</ref><ref name=endboat>{{cite web |last1=Moncreif |first1=Liz |title=Choosing and Using Shuttles: Double-Bobbin Boat Shuttles and End-Feed Shuttles |url=https://handwovenmagazine.com/choosing-and-using-shuttles-double-bobbin-boat-shuttles-and-end-feed/ |work=Handwoven Magazine |access-date=12 January 2023 |language=en}}</ref> They are commonly made for 10-cm (4-inch) and 15-cm (6-inch) bobbin lengths.<ref name=woodworks>{{cite web |title=Weaving Shuttles |url=http://blusterbaywoodworks.com/shuttles/ |publisher=Bluster Bay Woodworks}}</ref> <gallery mode="packed"> File:Väv, Skyttlar.jpg|Top, an open boat shuttle (the other two are closed). Bottom, a Swedish-style asymmetrical shuttle with a paper quill. All are side-feed; the topmost one runs on rollers File:Rhode Island weaving (51015839030) (square).jpg|Boat shuttle inside the shed. It floats on the lower warp threads. This only works on horizontal looms. [[Rhode Island]], USA. File:Navettes de métier.JPG|Boats with square-ended recesses are intended for bobbins with end flanges. Other shuttles have round-cornered recesses. They are often intended for use with paper quills (tubes of rolled paper). File:%D0%A1%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BA%D0%B8_1.JPG|Macedonian open shuttles with paper quills. File:Човники для ткацьких верстатів в етнопарку "Ладомирія" 2.jpg|A collection of open and closed shuttles in Ukraine, some clearly handmade. File:Balint-napra keszitett kalotaszegi vetelo 1883-bol.jpg|This Transylvanian shuttle was a Valentine's Day gift. File:মাকো.jpg|These Assamese shuttles, presumably for very fine silk, are slender and do not hold much volume. File:Shuttle for silk weaving. Khotan, Xinjiang. 2010.jpg|Asymmetric open boat shuttle, [[Khotan]]. File:Bobbins used inside shuttles.JPG|Two end-feed pirns and a side-feed bobbin (bottom) File:Rebozo-Weberei in San Luis Potosí, Mexico.jpg|Simple closed, side-feed boat shuttle with a paper bobbin, Mexico File:Shuttle with bobbin.JPG|How the conical pirn loads on an end-feed shuttle. File:Kangasteljed Vormsi rahvamajas.jpg|Using two shuttles for weft stripes, [[Estonia]] File:CSM Textiles2.jpg|Weaving with three shuttles </gallery> ===Flying shuttle=== {{main|Flying shuttle|Narrow cloth}} <gallery mode="packed"> File:Handloom Telar artesanal Webstuhl 02.ogv|Handloom with a flying shuttle. The shuttle runs in a shuttle race attached to the front of the beater bar. Subtitles describe step-by-step. File:Narrow shuttle loom.webm|An early fully-automated loom. The arms at the sides can be seen swinging to bash the flying shuttle back and forth. File:Jacquard weefgetouw in actie.webm|The automated shuttle moves almost too fast to see File:QSMM Shuttles 2630ca.JPG|Manufacture of a [[Cornelian cherry|cornelwood]] flying shuttle File:Großschönau - muzeum damaškové a smyčkové tkaniny 7787.jpg|In the shuttle race. 19C (late) Japanese hand loom with flying shuttle.jpg|Narrow [[tanmono]] loom with a shuttle race. Late 18-hundreds Japan. </gallery> Hand weavers who threw a shuttle could only weave [[narrow cloth|a cloth as wide as their armspan]]. If cloth needed to be wider, two people would do the task (often this would be an adult with a child). [[John Kay (flying shuttle)|John Kay]] (1704–1779) patented the [[flying shuttle]] in 1733. The weaver held a picking stick that was attached by cords to a device at both ends of the shed. With a flick of the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle was propelled through the shed to the other end with considerable force, speed and efficiency. A flick in the opposite direction and the shuttle was propelled back. A single weaver had control of this motion but the flying shuttle could weave much wider fabric than an arm's length at much greater speeds than had been achieved with the hand thrown shuttle. The ''flying shuttle'' was one of the key developments in [[weaving]] that helped fuel the [[Industrial Revolution]]. The whole picking motion no longer relied on manual skill and it was just a matter of time before it could be powered by something other than a human. [[File:Métier à tisser Jacquard 01.webm|thumb|Jacquard ribbon loom, showing distinctive sliding ribbon shuttles.]] ===Weft insertion in power looms=== [[File:Greifer.JPG|thumb|A [[Picanol]] rapier loom]] [[File:Computer(tapijten) Weeknummer 66-18 - Open Beelden - 23025.ogv|thumb|Weft insertion at 15 seconds]] [[File:1906 Toyoda Circular Loom.jpg|thumb|1906 Toyoda circular weaving loom]] Different types of power looms are most often defined by the way that the weft, or pick, is inserted into the warp. Many advances in weft insertion have been made in order to make manufactured cloth more cost effective. Weft insertion rate is a limiting factor in production speed. {{asof|2010}}, industrial looms can weave at 2,000 [[weft|weft insertion]]s per minute.<ref>{{cite web |first=S. |last=Rajagopalan |title=Advances in Weaving Technology and Looms |publisher=S.S.M. College of Engineering, Komarapalayam |url=http://www.pdexcil.org/news/40N1002/advances.htm |via=Pdexcil.org |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101129031824/http://www.pdexcil.org/news/40N1002/advances.htm |archive-date=29 November 2010 |url-status=dead}}</ref> There are five main types of weft insertion and they are as follows: * Shuttle: The first-ever powered looms were shuttle-type looms. Spools of weft are unravelled as the shuttle travels across the shed. This is very similar to projectile methods of weaving, except that the weft spool is stored on the shuttle. These looms are considered obsolete in modern industrial fabric manufacturing because they can only reach a maximum of 300 picks per minute. * Air jet: An [[Air jet loom|air-jet loom]] uses short quick bursts of compressed air to propel the weft through the shed in order to complete the weave. Air jets are the fastest traditional method of weaving in modern manufacturing and they are able to achieve up to 1,500 picks per minute. However, the amounts of compressed air required to run these looms, as well as the complexity in the way the air jets are positioned, make them more costly than other looms. * Water jet: Water-jet looms use the same principle as air-jet looms, but they take advantage of pressurized water to propel the weft. The advantage of this type of weaving is that water power is cheaper where water is directly available on site. Picks per minute can reach as high as 1,000. * [[Rapier loom]]: This type of weaving is very versatile, in that rapier looms can weave using a large variety of threads. There are several types of rapiers, but they all use a hook system attached to a rod or metal band to pass the pick across the shed. These machines regularly reach 700 picks per minute in normal production. * Projectile: [[Projectile loom]]s utilize an object that is propelled across the shed, usually by spring power, and is guided across the width of the cloth by a series of reeds. The projectile is then removed from the weft fibre and it is returned to the opposite side of the machine so it can be reused. Multiple projectiles are in use in order to increase the pick speed. Maximum speeds on these machines can be as high as 1,050 ppm. * Circular: Modern circular looms use up to ten shuttles, driven in a circular motion from below by electromagnets, for the weft yarns, and cams to control the warp threads. The warps rise and fall with each shuttle passage, unlike the common practice of lifting all of them at once. Circular looms are used to create seamless tubes of fabric for products such as hosiery, sacks, clothing, fabric hoses (such as fire hoses) and the like.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.starlinger.com/en/packaging/circular-looms/ |work=Starlinger |title=Circular Looms |access-date=27 June 2016}}</ref> {{clear}}
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