Editing Kimono (section)

==Construction==
[[File:Kimono-krij1.png|thumb|alt=A diagram showing how a {{transliteration|ja|tanmono}} is cut into the pattern pieces for a kimono.|Cutting a kimono from a {{transliteration|ja|[[tanmono]]}}]]
[[File:Kimono-zbirka.png|thumb|alt=A diagram showing how the pattern pieces of a kimono roughly folded into a kimono shape.|How a kimono is assembled from pieces cut from a {{transliteration|ja|tanmono}}]]
{{multiple image
| total_width       = 350
| image1            = Happy Children of Japan (1911 by Elstner Hilton).jpg
| alt1              = 
| caption1          = The hatless child in the pale kimono most clearly shows the shoulder tucks and hip overfold used to adjust size.
| image2            = Street stall - 焼きとうもろこし (28465840) (cropped to child).jpg
| alt2              = Boy stands at a corn-on-the-cob stall, his back to the viewer; two vertical outward-facing pleats descend from his shoulders.
| caption2          = {{transliteration|ja|Kata-nue-age}}, shoulder tucks to adjust size for children
}}

Kimono are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric known as a {{transliteration|ja|[[tanmono]]}}, which is roughly {{convert|11.5|m|ft}} long and {{convert|36|cm|in}} wide for women,<ref name="Dalby Fashioning Culture"/> and {{convert|12.5|m|feet}} long and {{convert|42|cm|in}} wide for men. The entire bolt is used to make one kimono, and some men's {{transliteration|ja|tanmono}} are woven to be long enough to create a matching {{transliteration|ja|[[haori]]}} jacket and {{transliteration|ja|juban}} as well. Kimono linings are made from bolts of the same width.

Some custom bolts of fabric are produced for especially tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, who must have kimono custom-made by either joining multiple bolts, weaving custom-width fabric, or using non-standard size fabric.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.kimono-taizen.com/|title=男のきもの大全 |publisher=Kimono-taizen.com |date=1999-02-22 |access-date=2012-08-13}}</ref> For children, in the early 1900s, shorter lengths were used, and sometimes the body of the kimono was made only a single cloth width wide ({{transliteration|ja|hitotsumi}}).<ref name=furisode>{{cite journal |last1=Sawada |first1=Kazuto |title=Furisode and teenage boys |journal=Bimonthly Magazine REKIHAKU |date=2014-05-09 |volume=137 A Witness to History |url=http://www.rekihaku.ac.jp/english/publication/rekihaku/137witness.html |publisher=National Museum of Japanese History |archive-url=https://archive.today/20140509012219/http://www.rekihaku.ac.jp/english/publication/rekihaku/137witness.html |archive-date=9 May 2014 |url-status=dead}}</ref> Tucks were also used to take in the garment; an outwards-facing pleat at each shoulder ({{transliteration|ja|kata-nue-age}}) and a [[kolpos]]-like overfold at the hip ({{transliteration|ja|koshi-nue-age}}), so that the child appeared to be wearing a sleeveless vest of the same fabric over their garment. These sewn tucks were let out as the child grew,<ref name=V&A/>{{rp|15}} and are mostly only seen today on the kimono of apprentice geisha in Kyoto, as apprentices previously began their training at a young age, requiring tucks to be let out as they grew. In the present day, apprentices begin their training in their late teenage years, and the tucks are retained merely as an anachronism.

Though adult women also retained a 'tuck' at the hip, this was a leftover from the trailing length of most women's kimono, which had previously been either held up by hand when walking or tied up loosely with a {{transliteration|ja|shigoki obi}}; though kimono were not worn as trailing towards the end of the 19th century, the excess length of most women's kimono remained, with the hip fold formalised and neatened into the {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} of the modern day.

Kimono have a set method of construction, which allows the entire garment to be taken apart, cleaned and resewn easily. As the [[seam allowance]] on nearly every panel features two [[selvedge]]s that will not fray, the woven edges of the fabric bolt are retained when the kimono is sewn, leading to large and often uneven seam allowances; unlike Western clothing, the seam allowances are not trimmed down, allowing for a kimono to be resewn to different measurements without the fabric fraying at the seams.{{citation needed|date=August 2021}} This was also used to prolong the life of the garment by reversing the sleeves (hiding the worn cuff hem in the shoulder seam) or the back panels (swapping the high-stress center seam and the low-stress sides),<ref name=mochi_komon/> like the European custom of side-to-middling or end-to-middling bedsheets.

Historically, kimono were taken apart entirely to be washed – a process known as {{transliteration|ja|arai-hari}}. Once cleaned, the fabric would be resewn by hand;<ref name="Dalby Fashioning Culture"/> this process, though necessary in previous centuries, is uncommon in modern-day Japan, as it is relatively expensive.

Despite the expense of hand-sewing, however, some modern kimono, including silk kimono and all formal kimono, are still hand-sewn entirely; even machine-sewn kimono require some degree of hand-sewing, particularly in finishing the collar, the hem, and the lining, if present. Hand-sewn kimono are usually sewn with a single running stitch roughly {{convert|3|mm}} to {{convert|4|mm}} long, with stitches growing shorter around the collar area for strength. Kimono seams, instead of being pressed entirely flat, are pressed to have a 'lip' of roughly {{convert|2|mm}} (known as the {{transliteration|ja|kise}}) pressed over each seam. This disguises the stitches, as hand-sewn kimono are not tightly sewn, rendering the stitches visible if pressed entirely flat.

===Terms===
[[Image:Kimono parts.png|thumb|upright=1.3|Diagram of the kimono parts]]

A number of terms are used to refer to the different parts of a kimono. Kimono that are lined are known as {{transliteration|ja|awase}} kimono, whereas unlined kimono are known as {{transliteration|ja|hitoe}} kimono; partially lined kimono – with lining only at the sleeve cuff, the back of the sleeve, the lower chest portion of the {{transliteration|ja|dōura}} and the entirety of the {{transliteration|ja|hakkake}} – are known as {{nihongo3|{{lit|chest-single-layer}}||dō-bitoe}} kimono.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://thekimonolady.blogspot.com/2013/04/kimono-seasonal-motifs-flowers-and_30.html?m=1 |title=Kimono Seasonal Motifs, Flowers, and Colors: May |date=13 April 2013 |website=thekimonolady.blogspot.com |access-date=3 July 2020 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://archive.today/20200703112215/http://thekimonolady.blogspot.com/2013/04/kimono-seasonal-motifs-flowers-and_30.html?m=1 |archive-date=3 July 2020}}</ref> Some fully lined kimono do not have a separate lower and upper lining, and are instead lined with solid panels on the {{transliteration|ja|okumi}}, the {{transliteration|ja|maemigoro}} and the {{transliteration|ja|ushiromigoro}}.

These terms refer to parts of a kimono:

{{glossary}}
{{term|Dōura|{{Nihongo||胴裏|Dōura}}}}
{{defn|The upper lining of a kimono.}}

{{term|Hakkake|{{Nihongo||八掛|Hakkake}}}}
{{defn|The lower lining of a kimono.}}

{{term|Eri|{{Nihongo||衿|Eri}}}}
{{defn|The collar.}}

{{term|Fuki|{{Nihongo||袘|Fuki}}}}
{{defn|The hem guard.}}

{{term|Furi|{{Nihongo3|{{lit|dangling}}|振り|Furi}}}}
{{defn|The part of the sleeve left hanging below the armhole.}}

{{term|Maemigoro|{{Nihongo3|{{lit|front body}}|前身頃|Maemigoro}}}}
{{defn|The front panels on a kimono, excluding the {{transliteration|ja|okumi}}. The panels are divided into the "right {{transliteration|ja|maemigoro}}" and "left {{transliteration|ja|maemigoro}}".}}

{{term|Miyatsukuchi|{{Nihongo||身八つ口|Miyatsukuchi}}}}
{{defn|The opening under the sleeve on a woman's kimono.}}

{{term|Okumi|{{Nihongo||衽|Okumi}}}}
{{defn|The overlapping front panel.}}

{{term|Sode|{{Nihongo||袖|Sode}}}}
{{defn|The entire sleeve.}}

{{term|Sodeguchi|{{Nihongo||袖口|Sodeguchi}}}}
{{defn|The wrist opening of the sleeve.}}

{{term|Sodetsuke|{{Nihongo||袖付|Sodetsuke}}}}
{{defn|The kimono armhole.}}

{{term|Susomawashi|{{Nihongo||裾回し|Susomawashi}}}}
{{defn|The lower lining.}}

{{term|Tamoto|{{Nihongo||袂|Tamoto}}}}
{{defn|The sleeve pouch of a kimono.}}

{{term|Tomoeri|{{Nihongo3|{{lit|over-collar}}|共衿|Tomoeri}}}}
{{defn|The collar cover sewn on top of the {{transliteration|ja|uraeri}}.}}

{{term|Uraeri|{{Nihongo3|{{lit|neckband lining}}|裏襟|Uraeri}}}}
{{defn|The inner collar.}}

{{term|Ushiromigoro|{{Nihongo3|{{lit|back body}}|後身頃|Ushiromigoro}}}}
{{defn|The back panels. The back panels consist of the "right {{transliteration|ja|ushiromigoro}}" and "left {{transliteration|ja|ushiromigoro}}".}}
{{glossary end}}

===Evolution of kimono construction===
{{Main|kosode}}
[[File:Kosode-Kimono.svg|thumb|left|Comparison between a {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} (left) and a modern-day kimono (right)]]
<!-- [[File:20111023 Jidai 0044.jpg|thumb|upright=1.7|Re-enactors wearing {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} at the [[Jidai Matsuri]] in 2011. Note narrow {{transliteration|ja|obi}}; the woman's {{transliteration|ja|obi}} widened in the Edo period]] -->
[[File:Historiallisia kimonotyylejä.jpg|thumb|upright=1.7|Ways of wearing {{transliteration|ja|kosode}}. Top left: as a belted and wrapped robe; top right: belted and off the shoulders in the {{transliteration|ja|koshimaki}} style; bottom left: as an unbelted outer robe {{Transliteration|ja|kosode}} in the {{transliteration|ja|uchikake}} style; bottom right: over the head in the {{transliteration|ja|katsugi}} style.]]

Though the basic shape of the kimono has not changed in centuries, proportions have, historically, varied in different eras of Japanese history. Beginning in the later Heian period, the {{transliteration|ja|hitoe}} – an unlined robe worn as underwear – became the predominant outerwear garment for both men and women, known as the {{nihongo3|{{lit|small sleeve}}||kosode}}. Court-appropriate dress continued to resemble the previous eras.

By the beginning of the Kamakura period, the {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} was an ankle-length garment for both men and women, and had small, rounded sleeves that were sewn to the body of the garment. The {{transliteration|ja|obi}} was a relatively thin belt tied somewhat low on the waist, usually in a plain bow, and was known as a {{transliteration|ja|hoso-obi}}.<ref>{{cite web |title=Costume History in Japan – The Kamakura Period |url=http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/index.htm |website=iz2.or.jp |publisher=The Costume Museum |access-date=13 June 2020}}</ref> During this time period, the fashion of wearing a {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} draped around the shoulders, over the head, or as the outermost garment stripped off the shoulders and held in place by the {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, led to the rise of the {{transliteration|ja|uchikake}} – a heavily decorated over-kimono, stemming from the verb {{nihongo3|{{lit|to drape upon}}||uchikake-ru}}, worn unbelted over the top of the {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} – becoming popular as formal dress for the upper classes.<ref name="Dalby Fashioning Culture"/>{{rp|39}}

In the following centuries, the {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} mostly retained its small, narrow and round-sleeved nature, with the length of women's sleeves gradually increasing over time and eventually becoming mostly detached from the body of the garment below the shoulders. The collar on both men's and women's {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} retained its relatively long and wide proportions, and the {{transliteration|ja|okumi}} front panel kept its long, shallow angle towards the hem. During the Edo period, the {{transliteration|ja|kosode}} had developed roughly modern kimono proportions, though variety existed until roughly the mid- to later years of the era.<ref>{{cite book |editor1-last=Watson |editor1-first=William |title=The Great Japan Exhibition: Art of the Edo Period 1600–1868 |date=1981 |publisher=Royal Academy of Arts |location=London |pages=222–229 |quote=[A number of visual examples of Edo-period {{transliteration|ja|kosode}}, with a variety of sleeve lengths and proportions showing the variation in style and shape throughout the era.]}}</ref> Men's sleeves continued to be sewn shut to the body of the kimono down most of their length, with no more than a few inches unattached at the bottom, unlike the women's style of very deep sleeves mostly detached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves were also less deep than women's kimono sleeves so that they did not get tied under the narrow {{transliteration|ja|obi}} around the hips, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve could hang over the wider {{transliteration|ja|obi}} without getting in the way.<ref name=mochi_juban/> Sleeves for both men and women grew in proportion to be of roughly equal width to the body panels, and the collar for both men's and women's kimono became shorter and narrower.

In the present day, both men's and women's kimono retain some historical features – for instance, women's kimono trailed along the floor throughout certain eras, and when the wearer went outside, the excess length would be tucked and tied underneath the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} in a hip fold known as the {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}}. The {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} is now used for fine length adjustments,<ref name=mochi_furisode/> and takes up {{convert|7–10|in|cm|round=each}} of excess length.<ref name=mochi_juban/> A hand-sewn tuck across the back under the {{transliteration|ja|obi}} is used for coarse adjustments, and made deliberately weak so that the stitches will tear before the cloth does under tension.<ref name=mochi_furisode/> Men's kimono, on the other hand, are cut to the length of the wearer's body and tied with a narrow belt at the hips, with no extra fabric in the kimono's length for an overfold at the hip.

Formal women's kimono also retain the wider collar of previous eras (made from a full {{transliteration|ja|tanmono}}-width instead of a half width), though it is always folded in half lengthwise before wearing – a style known as {{nihongo3|{{lit|wide collar}}, as opposed to {{transliteration|ja|bachi-eri}}, a normal width collar||hiro-eri}}.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Coline |first1=Youandi |title=Women's vs Men's kimono |url=https://chayatsujikimono.wordpress.com/2018/10/26/womens-vs-mens-kimono/ |website=chayatsujikimono.wordpress.com |date=26 October 2018 |publisher=Chayatsuji Kimono |access-date=13 June 2020}}</ref>

Women's kimono are still worn trailing in some situations, such as onstage, in historical dramas, and by geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}. In these instances, the kimono worn is constructed differently to a regular women's kimono: the collar is set back further into the neck, the sleeves are sewn to the body unevenly (further down the front than the back), and the body is elongated. This style of kimono is referred to as a {{transliteration|ja|susohiki}} or {{transliteration|ja|hikizuri}}. Though the length of the kimono, collar style and sleeve construction differs for this type of kimono, in all other types of women's kimono, the construction is generally the same; the collar is set back only slightly into the nape of the neck, the sleeves are attached evenly only at the shoulder (not all the way down the sleeve length) and the kimono's length from shoulder to hem is ideally the entire height of the woman wearing it, to allow for the creation of the {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}}.

===Sleeve length===
The sleeve length (dropping down from the arm towards the floor when held outstretched) varies in kimono.

{| class="wikitable"
|+ Sleeve lengths
|-
! Type
! Sleeve length
! Use
|-
! Men's sleeves
| 
| Men's sleeves are not visual markers of youth. They are attached to the body of the kimono all the way down, or almost all of the way down; though a small portion perhaps a few centimetres in length may be left unattached to the body at the very bottom, this portion is sewn closed. The construction of men's kimono sleeves reflects the fact that they do not have to accommodate the wider {{transliteration|ja|obi}} worn by women.
|-
! {{transliteration|ja|Tomesode}}, ordinary women's sleeves
| {{cvt|49|cm}}, or hip-length<ref name="lady">{{cite web |title=Furisode vs. Tomesode The Kimono Lady |url=http://thekimonolady.blogspot.com/2010/01/furisode-vs-tomesode.html |website=The Kimono Lady |date=24 January 2010}}</ref>
| Usual women's length; this was longer pre-WWII, but was shortened due to rationing.<ref name="mochi_komon"/><ref name="lady"/> This is the length almost invariably used for {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}, and used by definition for every type of {{transliteration|ja|tomesode}} kimono.
|-
! style="background: #D3D3D3"|{{transliteration|ja|[[Furisode]]}} [[File:Kimono2.jpg|thumb|upright=0.5|left|alt=A young woman stood up in a dark blue long-sleeved kimono with a white designs across the lap and the middle of the sleeves. The sash she wears is orange with a thin green belt in the centre]]
| colspan="2" style="background: #D3D3D3"| {{nihongo3|{{lit|swinging sleeve}}|[[wikt:振袖|振袖]]|Furisode}} kimono are worn by young, typically unmarried, women. In the present day, the term {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} refers by definition to highly-formal long-sleeved kimono worn by girls and young women; however, informal kimono such as {{transliteration|ja|yukata}} with {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}-length sleeves are sometimes seen. In the past, mostly all young women wore long-sleeved kimono as a marker of youth generally regardless of the formality of their kimono, and upon marriage, women would cut or hem their sleeves shorter, or unpick the sleeves and swap them for an identical but shorter pair. {{transliteration|ja|Furisode}} were historically worn by all children, with no gender distinction in pattern or cut, but it is now only young girls who are dressed in {{transliteration|ja|furisode}}.<ref name=furisode/>
|-
! {{transliteration|ja|Ko-furisode}} (also called {{transliteration|ja|nisyakusode}})<ref name="cafe">{{cite web |title=Introduction Of Furisode, With Obi And Kimono Accessories {{!}} かふぇきもの Cafekimono |url=https://cafe-kimono.com/en/introduction-of-furisode-with-obi-and-accessories/ |website=cafe-kimono.com |date=13 February 2020}}</ref> ("short")
| {{cvt|76|–|86|cm}}<ref name="cafe"/>
| Divided into {{transliteration|ja|kuro-furisode}} and {{transliteration|ja|iro-furisode}}, these are parallel versions of the formal, shorter-sleeved {{transliteration|ja|kurotomesode}} and {{transliteration|ja|irotomesode}}, but with longer sleeves. A {{transliteration|ja|ko-furisode}} with a {{transliteration|ja|komon}}-style pattern is deemed casual wear. {{transliteration|ja|Ko-furisode}} are also worn with {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}. In the modern era, {{transliteration|ja|ko-furisode}} are rare, but are sometimes worn for graduations. Most {{transliteration|ja|ko-furisode}} are vintage kimono, as in the modern day {{transliteration|ja|furisode}} are not worn often enough to warrant buying a more casual form of the dress.<ref name=mai-ko>{{cite web |title=Main Kimono Types (general info) |url=https://mai-ko.com/travel/culture-in-japan/kimono/main-kimono-types-general-info/ |website=Tea Ceremony Japan Experiences MAIKOYA|date=28 October 2020 }}</ref>
|-
! {{transliteration|ja|Tyu-furisode}}<ref name="cafe"/> or {{transliteration|ja|chu-furisode}} ("mid-size")
| {{cvt|86|–|115|cm}}, or shoulder to calf;<ref name="cafe"/> usually about {{cvt|100|cm}}
| {{transliteration|ja|Tyu-furisode}} are suitable for most formal occasions; the sleeve length of {{transliteration|ja|tyu-furisode}} has been growing longer, due to growing people and the near-elimination of {{transliteration|ja|ō-furisode}}, and may be considered {{transliteration|ja|ō-furisode}}.<ref name=mai-ko/> {{transliteration|ja|Tyu-furisode}} are worn to {{transliteration|ja|[[seijin shiki]]}} (Coming of Age Day) or weddings, either by the bride herself or an unmarried younger female relative.
|-
! {{transliteration|ja|Ō-furisode}}<ref name="cafe"/> or {{transliteration|ja|hon-furisode}}
| {{cvt|114|–|115|cm}}, as high as {{cvt|125|cm}}, or shoulder to ankle<ref name="cafe"/>
| Generally only worn by brides, dancers, and singers. The hem of the {{transliteration|ja|ō-furisode}} is padded so it can trail.
|}