Editing Fashion (section)

==Media==
[[File:Tanzturnier 28.JPG|thumb|upright|[[Latin dance]]rs in their [[costume]]s. The woman is wearing [[backless dress]] with deep slits on its lower portion, while the man is wearing a shirt with top buttons open.]]

Media, including social media platforms, play a crucial role in shaping fashion trends, creating a rapid cycle of trend adoption and obsolescence.<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Entwistle |first1=Joanne |last2=Rocamora |first2=Agnès |date=August 2006 |title=The Field of Fashion Materialized: A Study of London Fashion Week |url=http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0038038506065158 |journal=Sociology |language=en |volume=40 |issue=4 |pages=735–751 |doi=10.1177/0038038506065158 |issn=0038-0385}}</ref> For instance, an important part of fashion is [[fashion journalism]]. Editorial critique, guidelines, and commentary can be found on television and in magazines, newspapers, fashion websites, social networks, and [[fashion blog]]s. In recent years, fashion blogging and YouTube videos have become a major outlet for spreading trends and fashion tips, creating an online culture of sharing one's style on a website or social media accounts (i.e. Instagram, TikTok, or Twitter). Through these media outlets, readers and viewers all over the world can learn about fashion, making it very accessible.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/|title=Fashion|website=WWD}}</ref> In addition to fashion journalism, another media platform that is important in fashion industry is advertisement. Advertisements provide information to audiences and promote the sales of products and services. The fashion industry uses advertisements to attract consumers and promote its products to generate sales. A few decades ago when technology was still underdeveloped, advertisements heavily relied on radio, magazines, billboards, and newspapers.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://smallbusiness.chron.com/examples-traditional-advertising-24312.html|title=Examples of Traditional Advertising|last=Lauren|first=Lynn|work=Chron - Small Business }}</ref> These days, there are more various ways in advertisements such as television ads, online-based ads using internet websites, and posts, videos, and live streaming in social media platforms.

=== Fashion in printed media ===
[[File:1921 Veiled Prophet Ball with Marguerite Martyn drawings.png|upright=1.5|thumb|left|This 1921 clipping from the ''[[St. Louis Post-Dispatch]],'' with story and drawings by [[Marguerite Martyn]], represents the saturation newspaper coverage given to society women at a fashionable dance.]]
There are two subsets of print styling: editorial and lifestyle. Editorial styling is the high-fashion styling seen in fashion magazines, and this tends to be more artistic and fashion-forward. Lifestyle styling focuses on a more overtly commercial goal, like a department store advertisement, a website, or an advertisement where fashion is not what's being sold but the models are hired to promote the product in the photo.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Tran|first=Shannon|title=Style Wise|publisher=Bloomsbury|year=2018|isbn=9781501323836|pages=6}}</ref>

The dressing practices of the powerful have traditionally been mediated through art and the practices of the courts. The looks of the French court were disseminated through prints from the 16th century on, but gained cohesive design with the development of a centralized court under King [[Louis XIV]], which produced an identifiable style that [[Louis XIV style|took his name]].<ref>{{Cite book|last=Burke|first=Peter|title=The fabrication of Louis XIV|publisher=Yale University Press|year=1992|location=New Haven}}</ref> At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion magazines began to include photographs of various fashion designs and became even more influential than in the past.<ref>{{Citation|publisher=Fairchild Publications|isbn=9781501303869|doi=10.5040/9781501303869.ch-014|title = Marketing Fashion|year = 2012|chapter = Fashion Advertising, Sales Promotion, and Public Relations|pages=427–458}}</ref> In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought after and had a profound effect on public taste in clothing. Talented illustrators drew exquisite fashion plates for the publications which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was ''[[La Gazette du Bon Ton]]'', which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years).<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.abebooks.com/books/features/lithographs/gazette-du-bon-ton.shtml|title=Gazette du Bon Ton: A Journal of Good Taste|website=www.abebooks.com|access-date=2018-07-04|archive-date=2019-06-17|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190617204415/https://www.abebooks.com/books/features/lithographs/gazette-du-bon-ton.shtml|url-status=dead}}</ref>

''Vogue'', founded in [[Manhattan]] in 1892, has been the longest-lasting and most successful of the hundreds of fashion magazines that have come and gone. Increasing affluence after [[World War&nbsp;II]] and, most importantly, the advent of cheap color printing in the 1960s, led to a huge boost in its sales and heavy coverage of fashion in mainstream women's magazines, followed by men's magazines in the 1990s. One such example of ''Vogue'''s popularity is the younger version, ''[[Teen Vogue]]'', which covers clothing and trends that are targeted more toward the "fashionista on a budget". [[Haute couture]] designers followed the trend by starting [[ready-to-wear]] and perfume lines which are heavily advertised in the magazines and now dwarf their original couture businesses. A recent development within fashion print media is the rise of text-based and critical magazines which aim to prove that fashion is not superficial, by creating a dialogue between fashion academia and the industry. Examples of this development are: ''[[Fashion Theory (journal)|Fashion Theory]]'' (1997), ''Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry'' (2008), and ''[[Vestoj]]'' (2009).

=== Fashion in television ===
Television coverage began in the 1950s with small fashion features. In the 1960s and 1970s, fashion segments on various entertainment shows became more frequent, and by the 1980s, dedicated fashion shows such as ''[[Fashion Television]]'' started to appear. ''[[FashionTV]]'' was the pioneer in this undertaking and has since grown to become the leader in both Fashion Television and new media channels. The Fashion Industry is beginning to promote their styles through Bloggers on social media's. Vogue specified Chiara Ferragni as "blogger of the moment" due to the rises of followers through her Fashion Blog, that became popular.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.huffpost.com/entry/how-social-media-is-changing-fashion_b_587edd29e4b06a0baf64918f|title=How social media is changing fashion?|date=January 18, 2017|website=HuffPost}}</ref>

A few days after the 2010 Fall Fashion Week in [[New York Fashion Week|New York City]] came to a close, ''[[The New Islander]]'''s Fashion Editor, Genevieve Tax, criticized the fashion industry for running on a seasonal schedule of its own, largely at the expense of real-world consumers. "Because designers release their fall collections in the spring and their spring collections in the fall, fashion magazines such as ''Vogue'' always and only look forward to the upcoming season, promoting parkas come September while issuing reviews on shorts in January", she writes. "Savvy shoppers, consequently, have been conditioned to be extremely, perhaps impractically, farsighted with their buying."<ref>{{cite web| url = http://www.newislander.com/ports/2010/02/fashions_own_sense_of_season/| title = Tax, Genevieve. (2010-02-24) Fashion's Own Sense of Season. ''The New Islander''. Retrieved on 2011-06-29.}}</ref>

The fashion industry has been the subject of numerous films and television shows, including the reality show ''[[Project Runway]]'' and the drama series ''[[Ugly Betty]]''. Specific fashion brands have been featured in film, not only as [[product placement]] opportunities, but as bespoke items that have subsequently led to trends in fashion.<ref>Thompson, S.B.N., Hussein, Y., Jones, N. Designing for the famous – psychology of building a brand in haute couture shoe design and fashion. Design Principles & Practices: An International Journal 2011;5(5):1–25.</ref>

Videos in general have been very useful in promoting the fashion industry. This is evident not only from television shows directly spotlighting the fashion industry, but also movies, events and music videos which showcase fashion statements as well as promote specific brands through product placements.

=== Controversial advertisements in fashion industry ===

==== Racism in fashion advertisements ====
[[File:Winnie_Harlow_Cannes_2018.jpg|thumb|right|[[Winnie Harlow]] challenges racism in fashion by promoting diversity and redefining beauty standards.]]

Some fashion advertisements have been accused of racism and led to boycotts from customers. Globally known Swedish fashion brand [[H&M]] faced this issue with one of its children's wear advertisements in 2018. A Black child wearing a hoodie with the slogan "coolest monkey in the jungle" was featured in the ad. This immediately led to controversy, as "monkey" is commonly [[List of ethnic slurs and epithets by ethnicity#African|used as slur against Black people]], and caused many customers to boycott the brand. Many people, including celebrities, posted on social media about their resentments towards H&M and refusal to work with and buy its products. H&M issued a statement saying "we apologise to anyone this may have offended", though this too received some criticism for appearing insincere.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/hm-hoodie-racist-boycott-advertising-people-h-m-a8149246.html|title=People are boycotting H&M over 'racist' hoodie|date=2018-01-09|website=The Independent|language=en|access-date=2019-10-29}}</ref>

Another fashion advertisement seen as racist was from [[Gap Inc.|GAP]], an American worldwide clothing brand. GAP collaborated with [[Ellen DeGeneres]] in 2016 for the advertisement. It features four playful young girls, with a tall White girl leaning with her arm on a shorter Black girl's head. Upon release, some viewers harshly criticized it, claiming it shows an underlying passive racism. A representative from ''[[The Root (magazine)|The Root]]'' commented that the ad portrays the message that Black people are undervalued and seen as props for White people to look better.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-trending-35968787|title=Is this Gap advert racist?|date=2016-04-06|access-date=2019-10-29|language=en-GB}}</ref> Others saw little issue with the ad, and that the controversy was the result of people being [[Hostile Attribution Bias|oversensitive]]. GAP replaced the image in the ad and apologized to critics.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/273593|title=Gap Apologizes for 'Racist' Ad|last=Kell|first=John|date=2016-04-05|website=Entrepreneur|language=en|access-date=2019-10-29}}</ref>

==== Sexism in fashion advertisements ====
[[File:Karlie_in_Peach_-_Paris_Haute_Couture_Spring-Summer_2012.jpg|thumb|left|[[Karlie Kloss]] has also been an advocate for women’s empowerment, notably through her work with initiatives like Kode with Klossy, which encourages young girls to learn coding.]]

Many fashion brands have published ads that were provocative and sexy to attract customers' attention. British high fashion brand, Jimmy Choo, was blamed for having sexism in its ad which featured a female British model wearing the brand's boots. In this two-minute ad, men whistle at a model, walking on the street with red, sleeveless mini dress. This ad gained much backlash and criticism by the viewers, as it was seen as promoting sexual harassment and other misconduct. Many people showed their dismay through social media posts, leading Jimmy Choo to pull down the ad from social media platforms.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://mashable.com/2017/12/22/jimmy-choo-cara-delevingne-catcall-ad/|title=Jimmy Choo pulls Cara Delevingne ad after online backlash|last=Gallucci|first=Nicole|website=Mashable|date=22 December 2017|language=en|access-date=2019-10-29}}</ref>

French luxury fashion brand Yves Saint Laurent also faced this issue with its print ad shown in Paris in 2017. The ad depicted a female model wearing fishnet tights with roller-skate stilettos reclining with her legs opened in front of the camera. This advertisement brought harsh comments from both viewers and French advertising organization directors for going against the advertising codes related to "respect for decency, dignity and those prohibiting submission, violence or dependence, as well as the use of stereotypes." and additionally said that this ad was causing "mental harm to adolescents."<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://adage.com/article/advertising/degrading-yves-saint-laurent-ads-shock-french-public/308196|title='Misogynist' YSL Ads Shock Parisians Ahead of International Women's Day|date=2017-03-07|website=adage.com|language=en|access-date=2019-10-29}}</ref> Due to the negative public reaction, the poster was removed from the city.