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===Modern history=== [[File:Moslema in style (8093610616).jpg|thumb|left|upright|A model displaying a fashionable hijab at "Moslema In Style Fashion Show" in [[Kuala Lumpur]], Malaysia]] Western clothing largely dominated fashion in Muslim countries in the 1960s and 1970s.<ref>{{cite book |title=A Quiet Revolution: The Veil's Resurgence, from the Middle East to America |author=Leila Ahmed |publisher=Yale University Press |year=2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.albawaba.com/slideshow/retro-mini-fashion-middle-east--514288 |title=Retro Middle East: The rise and fall of the miniskirt |website=albawaba.com |date=18 August 2013 |access-date=23 October 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161024022834/http://www.albawaba.com/slideshow/retro-mini-fashion-middle-east--514288 |archive-date=24 October 2016 |url-status=live }}</ref> For example, in [[fashion in Pakistan|Pakistan]], Afghanistan and Iran, some women wore short skirts, flower printed [[hippie]] dresses, or flared trousers.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.dawn.com/news/1223761 |title=Bhutto's Pakistan |date=4 December 2015 |access-date=23 October 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161019191043/http://www.dawn.com/news/1223761 |archive-date=19 October 2016 |url-status=live }}</ref> This changed following the military dictatorship in Pakistan, and [[Iranian revolution]] of 1979, when traditional conservative attire including the [[abaya]], jilbab and niqab made a comeback.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.shughal.com/16-images-of-pakistans-swinging-1970s/ |title=Pakistan's swinging 70s |access-date=23 October 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161009213528/http://www.shughal.com/16-images-of-pakistans-swinging-1970s/ |archive-date=9 October 2016 |url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.businessinsider.com/iran-before-the-revolution-in-photos-2015-4|title=25 photos show what Iran looked like before the 1979 revolution turned the nation into an Islamic republic|first=Jeremy Bender, Melia|last=Robinson|website=Business Insider}}</ref> There were demonstrations in Iran in March 1979 after the hijab law, decreeing that women in Iran would have to wear scarves to leave the house, was brought in.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/sep/03/hengameh-golestans-best-photograph-iranian-women-rebel-against-the-1979-hijab-law |title=theguardian.com, 3 September 2015, accessed 23 October 2016 |website=[[The Guardian]] |date=3 September 2015 |access-date=23 October 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190107103504/https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/sep/03/hengameh-golestans-best-photograph-iranian-women-rebel-against-the-1979-hijab-law |archive-date=7 January 2019 |url-status=live}}</ref> However, this phenomenon did not happen in all countries with a significant Muslim population; in Turkey there has been a decline on women wearing the hijab in recent years,<ref>{{cite web |url=https://en.qantara.de/content/women-in-turkey-the-headscarf-is-slipping?page=0%2C1|title = Women in Turkey: The headscarf is slipping - Qantara.de| date=20 February 2019 }}</ref> although under Erdoğan Turkey is becoming more conservative and Islamic, as Turkey repeals the [[Headscarf controversy in Turkey#Banning of headscarves|1982 headscarf ban in public sector]],<ref>''[https://www.mevzuat.gov.tr/mevzuat?MevzuatNo=85105&MevzuatTur=3&MevzuatTertip=5 KAMU KURUM VE KURULUŞLARINDA ÇALIŞAN PERSONELİN KILIK VE KIYAFETİNE DAİR YÖNETMELİK]'' ("THE REGULATION ON THE DRESS AND ATTIRE OF PERSONNEL WORKING IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS AND ORGANIZATIONS") dated 16 July 1982.</ref> and the founding of new fashion companies catering to women who want to dress more conservatively.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.aljazeera.com/programmes/aljazeeraworld/2015/05/cover-story-150505121122072.html|title=Cover Story|website=www.aljazeera.com|access-date=11 April 2020}}</ref> Egyptian leader President [[Gamal Abdel Nasser]] claimed that, in 1953, he was told by the leader of the [[Muslim Brotherhood]] organization that they wanted to enforce the wearing of the hijab, to which Nasser responded, "Sir, I know you have a daughter in college, and she doesn't wear a headscarf or anything! Why don't you make her wear the headscarf? So you can't make one girl, your own daughter, wear it, and yet you want me to go and make ten million women wear it?"<ref>{{Cite web |date=2018-07-23 |title=How Abdel Nasser described Muslim Brotherhood |url=https://www.egypttoday.com/Article/1/54557/How-Abdel-Nasser-described-Muslim-Brotherhood |access-date=2023-11-29 |website=EgyptToday}}</ref> The late-twentieth century saw a resurgence of the hijab in Egypt after a long period of decline as a result of westernization. Already in the mid-1970s some college aged Muslim men and women began a movement meant to reunite and rededicate themselves to the Islamic faith.<ref name="oxfordislamicstudies.com">{{cite web|last1=El Guindi|first1=Fadwa|last2=Zuhur|first2=Sherifa|title=Ḥijāb|url=http://www.oxfordislamicstudies.com/article/opr/t236/e0306|publisher=The Oxford Encyclopedia of the Islamic World|access-date=11 October 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141024173453/http://www.oxfordislamicstudies.com/article/opr/t236/e0306|archive-date=24 October 2014|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref name="Bullock 2000 22–53">{{cite journal |last=Bullock|first=Katherine|title=Challenging Medial Representations of the Veil|journal=The American Journal of Islamic Social Sciences|year=2000|volume=17|issue=3|pages=22–53|doi=10.35632/ajis.v17i3.2045}}</ref> This movement was named the [[Islamic revival|Sahwah]],<ref>{{cite web|last=Elsaie |first=Adel |title=Dr. |url=http://www.usislam.org/islamicyouth/islamic_youth_Campaign.htm |publisher=United States of Islam |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121224004547/http://www.usislam.org/islamicyouth/islamic_youth_Campaign.htm |archive-date=24 December 2012 }}</ref> or awakening, and sparked a period of heightened religiosity that began to be reflected in the dress code.<ref name="oxfordislamicstudies.com" /> The uniform adopted by the young female pioneers of this movement was named al-Islāmī (Islamic dress) and was made up of an "al-jilbāb—an unfitted, long-sleeved, ankle-length gown in austere solid colors and thick opaque fabric—and al-khimār, a head cover resembling a nun's [[wimple]] that covers the hair low to the forehead, comes under the chin to conceal the neck, and falls down over the chest and back".<ref name="oxfordislamicstudies.com" /> In addition to the basic garments that were mostly universal within the movement, additional measures of modesty could be taken depending on how conservative the followers wished to be. Some women choose to also utilize a face covering (niqāb) that leaves only eye slits for sight, as well as both gloves and socks in order to reveal no visible skin.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Aziz |first=Rookhsana |date=2011-01-01 |title=Hijab – the Islamic dress code: its historical development, evidence from sacred sources and views of selected Muslim scholars |url=https://www.academia.edu/79841919 |journal=University of South Africa}}</ref> Soon this movement expanded outside of the youth realm and became a more widespread Muslim practice. Women viewed this way of dress as a way to both publicly announce their religious beliefs as well as a way to simultaneously reject Western influences of dress and culture that were prevalent at the time. Despite many criticisms of the practice of hijab being oppressive and detrimental to women's equality,<ref name="Bullock 2000 22–53" /> many Muslim women view the way of dress to be a positive thing. It is seen as a way to avoid harassment and unwanted sexual advances in public and works to desexualize women in the public sphere in order to instead allow them to enjoy equal rights of complete legal, economic, and political status. This modesty was not only demonstrated by their chosen way of dress but also by their serious demeanor which worked to show their dedication to modesty and Islamic beliefs.<ref name="oxfordislamicstudies.com" /> [[File:Medalists_at_the_Women%27s_57_kg_Taekwandoo.jpg|thumb|[[Taekwondo]] medalists from Spain, Britain, Iran and Egypt at Rio Olympics, 2016<ref>{{cite news|author=Patrick Johnston|title=Kimia Alizadeh Zenoorin Becomes The First Iranian Woman To Win An Olympic Medal|publisher=Reuters/Huffington Post|date=19 August 2016|url=https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/kimia-alizadeh-zenoorin-iran-woman-olympic-medal_us_57b7631de4b0b51733a37c08|access-date=22 August 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160822194223/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/kimia-alizadeh-zenoorin-iran-woman-olympic-medal_us_57b7631de4b0b51733a37c08|archive-date=22 August 2016|url-status=live}}</ref>]] Controversy erupted over the practice. Many people, both men and women from backgrounds of both Islamic and non-Islamic faith questioned the hijab and what it stood for in terms of [[Women's rights in Iran|women and their rights]]. There was questioning of whether in practice the hijab was truly a female choice or if women were being coerced or pressured into wearing it.<ref name="oxfordislamicstudies.com" /> As the awakening movement gained momentum, its goals matured and shifted from promoting modesty towards more of a political stance in terms of retaining support for [[Pan-Islamism]] and a symbolic rejection of Western culture and norms. Today the hijab means many different things for different people. For Islamic women who choose to wear the hijab it allows them to retain their modesty, morals and freedom of choice.<ref name="Bullock 2000 22–53" /> After the [[September 11 attacks]], the discussion and discourse on the hijab in Western nations intensified as Islamic traditions and theology came under greater scrutiny, with Hijabis facing extensive discrimination.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Muslim 'Veil' Post-9/11: Rethinking Women's Rights and Leadership |url=https://scholarship.libraries.rutgers.edu/esploro/outputs/journalArticle/The-Muslim-Veil-Post-911-Rethinking-Womens/991031549959304646 |access-date=2025-01-06 |website=Rutgers University / Institute for Social Policy and Understanding}}</ref> According to the Harvard University Pluralism Project: "Some Muslim women cover their head only during prayer in the mosque; other Muslim women wear the hijab; still others may cover their head with a turban or a loosely draped scarf."<ref>{{cite web | url=https://pluralism.org/women-in-islam | title=Women in Islam }}</ref>
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