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=== Dyes === The most famous purple dye in the ancient world was [[Tyrian purple]], made from a type of sea snail called the [[murex]], found around the Mediterranean. (See history section above).<ref name="StClair" /> In western [[Polynesia]], residents of the islands made a purple dye similar to Tyrian purple from the [[sea urchin]]. In Central America, the inhabitants made a dye from a different sea snail, the [[Purpura (gastropod)|purpura]], found on the coasts of [[Costa Rica]] and [[Nicaragua]]. The [[Mayans]] used this color to dye fabric for religious ceremonies, while the [[Aztecs]] used it for paintings of ideograms, where it symbolized royalty.<ref name="Anne Carichon 2000 p. 133">Anne Carichon (2000), ''Couleurs: pigments et teintures dans les mains des peuples''. p. 133.</ref> In the Middle Ages, those who worked with blue and black dyes belonged to separate guilds from those who worked with red and yellow dyes, and were often forbidden to dye any other colors than those of their own guild.<ref name="StClair2">{{Cite book|title=The Secret Lives of Colour|last=St. Clair|first=Kassia|publisher=John Murray|year=2016|isbn=978-1-4736-3081-9|location=London|page=211|oclc=936144129}}</ref> Most purple fabric was made by the dyers who worked with red, and who used dye from [[Rubia|madder]] or [[cochineal]], so medieval violet colors were inclined toward red.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Clayton |first=Graham |date=2016-03-23 |title=What colour are you? A focus on Purple and Violet |url=https://sdc.org.uk/what-colour-are-you-a-focus-on-purple-and-violet/ |access-date=2024-05-01 |website=SDC |language=en-GB}}</ref> [[Orcein]], or ''purple moss'', was another common purple dye. It was known to the ancient Greeks and Hebrews, and was made from a Mediterranean [[lichen]] called archil or dyer's moss ([[Roccella tinctoria]]), combined with an [[ammoniac]], usually urine. Orcein began to achieve popularity again in the 19th century, when violet and purple became the color of demi-mourning, worn after a widow or widower had worn black for a certain time, before he or she returned to wearing ordinary colors.<ref>Anne Carichon (2000), ''Couleurs: pigments et teintures dans les mains des peuples''. p. 144.</ref> From the Middle Ages onward, purple dyes for the clothing of common people were often made from the [[blackberry]] or other red fruit of the genus [[rubus]], or from the [[mulberry]]. All of these dyes were more reddish than bluish, and faded easily with washing and exposure to sunlight. A popular new dye which arrived in Europe from the New World during the Renaissance was made from the wood of the [[logwood]] tree (H''aematoxylum campechianum''), which grew in Spanish Mexico. Depending on the different minerals added to the dye, it produced a blue, red, black or, with the addition of [[alum]], a purple color, it made a good color, but, like earlier dyes, it did not resist sunlight or washing. In the 18th century, chemists in England, France and Germany began to create the first synthetic dyes. Two synthetic purple dyes were invented at about the same time. '''Cudbear''' is a [[dye]] extracted from [[orchil]] [[lichen]]s that can be used to dye [[wool]] and [[silk]], without the use of [[mordant]]. Cudbear was developed by Dr Cuthbert Gordon of [[Scotland]]: production began in 1758, The lichen is first boiled in a solution of [[ammonium carbonate]]. The mixture is then cooled and [[ammonia]] is added and the mixture is kept damp for 3β4 weeks. Then the lichen is dried and ground to powder. The manufacture details were carefully protected, with a ten-feet high wall being built around the manufacturing facility, and staff consisting of Highlanders sworn to secrecy. '''French purple''' was developed in France at about the same time. The lichen is extracted by urine or ammonia. Then the extract is acidified, the dissolved dye precipitates and is washed. Then it is dissolved in ammonia again, the solution is heated in air until it becomes purple, then it is precipitated with [[calcium chloride]]; the resulting dye was more solid and stable than other purples. '''Cobalt violet''' is a synthetic pigment that was invented in the second half of the 19th century, and is made by a similar process as [[cobalt blue]], [[cerulean blue]] and [[cobalt green]]. It is the violet pigment most commonly used today by artists. In spite of its name, this pigment produces a purple rather than violet color.<ref name="Computational evidence of first ext"/> '''[[Mauveine]]''', also known as '''[[aniline]] purple''' and '''Perkin's [[mauve]]''', was the first synthetic [[organic chemistry|organic chemical]] [[dye]],<ref>{{cite journal | title= History: 150 Years of mauveine | author= Hubner K | journal= Chemie in unserer Zeit | year= 2006 | volume= 40 | issue= 4 | pages= 274β275 | doi= 10.1002/ciuz.200690054 }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal | title= Perkin's Mauve: Ancestor of the Organic Chemical Industry | author= Anthony S. Travis | journal= Technology and Culture | year= 1990 | volume= 31 | issue= 1 | pages= 51β82 | doi= 10.2307/3105760 | jstor=3105760 | s2cid= 112031120 }}</ref> discovered [[serendipity|serendipitously]] in 1856. Its chemical name is 3-amino-2,Β±9-dimethyl-5-phenyl-7-(p-tolylamino)phenazinium acetate. [[Fuchsine]] was another synthetic dye made shortly after mauveine. It produced a brilliant fuchsia color. In the 1950s, a new family of purple and violet synthetic organic pigments called [[quinacridone]] came onto the market. It had originally been discovered in 1896, but were not synthesized until 1936, and not manufactured until the 1950s. The colors in the group range from deep red to bluish purple in color, and have the molecular formula C<sub>20</sub>H<sub>12</sub>N<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>. They have strong resistance to sunlight and washing, and are widely used today in oil paints, water colors, and acrylics, as well as in automobile coatings and other industrial coatings. <gallery mode="packed" heights="200px"> File:Black Butte blackberry.jpg|[[Blackberry|Blackberries]] were sometimes used to make purple dye in the Middle Ages. File:A lichen - Ochrolechia tartarea - geograph.org.uk - 995354.jpg|This lichen, growing on a tree in Scotland, was used in the 18th century to make a common purple dye called Cudbear. File:Mauv2.jpg|A sample of silk dyed with the original mauveine dye. File:Basic Fuchsine in aqueous solution.jpg|A sample of [[fuchsine]] dye </gallery>
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