Editing Mount Hood (section)

==Climbing==
Mount Hood is Oregon's highest point and a prominent landmark visible up to {{cvt|100|mi|km}} away. About 10,000 people attempt to climb Mount Hood each year.<ref name="goesright">{{cite news |url=http://blog.oregonlive.com/breakingnews/2007/02/everything_goes_right_in_mount.html |title=Everything goes right in Mount Hood search |last1=Green |first1=Aimee |last2=Larabee |first2=Mark |last3=Muldoon |first3=Katy |newspaper=[[The Oregonian]] |location=Portland, Oregon |date=2007-02-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071223093250/http://blog.oregonlive.com/breakingnews/2007/02/everything_goes_right_in_mount.html |archive-date=2007-12-23 |access-date=2008-12-19}}</ref> It has convenient access, though it presents some technical climbing challenges. There are no trails to the summit, with even the "easier" southside climbing route constituting a technical climb with crevasses, falling rocks, and often inclement weather. Ropes, [[ice axes]], [[crampons]] and other technical [[mountaineering]] gear are necessary.<ref>{{Cite news |url=https://gethighonaltitude.com/2019/01/15/mt-hood-pearly-gates-winter-ascent/ |title="Mount Hood Pearly Gates" GetHighOnAltitude.com |newspaper=Get High on Altitude |date=16 January 2019 |access-date=2019-04-12 |archive-date=2019-04-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190412175816/https://gethighonaltitude.com/2019/01/15/mt-hood-pearly-gates-winter-ascent/ |url-status=live}}</ref> Peak climbing season is generally from April to mid-June.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mthood/recarea/?recid=80001 |title=Mount Hood Summit |publisher=USDA Forest Service |access-date=2014-02-18 |archive-date=2014-02-27 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140227111701/http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mthood/recarea/?recid=80001 |url-status=live}}</ref>
[[File:Mount Hood Landmarks.jpg|thumb|right|Landmarks along the southern climbing route of Mount Hood]]
There are six main routes to approach the mountain, with about 30 total variations for summiting. The climbs range in difficulty from [[Yosemite Decimal System#YDS class|class]] 2 to class 5.9+ (for ''Acrophobia'').<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.summitpost.org/mount-hood/150189#chapter_2 |title=Mount Hood |publisher=SummitPost |date=2010-06-09 |access-date=2011-11-27 |archive-date=2012-11-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121107084951/http://www.summitpost.org/mount-hood/150189#chapter_2 |url-status=live}}</ref> The most popular route, dubbed the south route, begins at Timberline Lodge and proceeds up Palmer Glacier to Crater Rock, the large prominence at the head of the glacier. The route goes east around Crater Rock and crosses the Coalman Glacier on the Hogsback, a ridge spanning from Crater Rock to the approach to the summit. The Hogsback terminates at a [[bergschrund]] where the Coalman Glacier separates from the summit rock [[headwall]]. The route continues to the Pearly Gates, a gap in the summit rock formation, then right onto the summit plateau and the summit proper.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip/54445 |title=Portland, OR: Mount Hood via the South Side Route |work=Backpacker Magazine |publisher=Trimble Outdoors |date=2008-05-12 |access-date=2011-11-27 |archive-date=2012-04-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120406172352/http://www.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip/54445 |url-status=live}}</ref>

Technical ice axes, fall protection, and experience are now recommended in order to attempt the left chute variation or Pearly Gates ice chute. The Forest Service recommends several other route options due to these changes in conditions (e.g. "Old Chute," West Crater Rim, etc.).<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mthood/recreation/climbing/conditions.shtml |title=Climbing Mount Hood: Southside Climbing Conditions – June 9, 2007 |publisher=[[United States Forest Service]] |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070614102410/http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mthood/recreation/climbing/conditions.shtml |archive-date=2007-06-14}}</ref>

===Climbing accidents===
{{main|Mount Hood climbing accidents}}

As of May 2002, more than 130 people had died in climbing-related accidents since records have been kept on Mount Hood, the first in 1896.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cbsnews.com/news/last-body-recovered-from-mt-hood/ |title=Last Body Recovered From Mount Hood |author=Holguin, Jaime |publisher=[[CBS News]] |date=2002-05-30 |access-date=2014-03-09 |archive-date=2014-03-10 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140310073234/http://www.cbsnews.com/news/last-body-recovered-from-mt-hood/ |url-status=live}}</ref> Incidents in May 1986, December 2006, and December 2009 attracted intense national and international media interest. Though avalanches are a common hazard on other glaciated mountains, most Mount Hood climbing deaths are the result of falls and [[hypothermia]].<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.gorp.com/parks-guide/travel-ta-mount-hood-national-forest-oregon-sidwcmdev_066522.html |title=Mount Hood National Forest Technical Climbing |publisher=GORP.com |access-date=2008-08-28 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100513021549/http://www.gorp.com/parks-guide/travel-ta-mount-hood-national-forest-oregon-sidwcmdev_066522.html |archive-date=2010-05-13 |url-status=dead}}
</ref> Around 50 people require rescue per year.<ref>{{cite web |title=Without A Trace |url=http://www.wweek.com/html/leada101399.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081216122920/http://wweek.com/___ALL_OLD_HTML/leada101399.html |archive-date=2008-12-16 |first=Nigel |last=Jaquiss |work=Willamette Week |location=Portland, Oregon |date=1999-10-13 |access-date=2006-12-19}}</ref> 3.4&nbsp;percent of search and rescue missions in 2006 were for mountain climbers.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cnn.com/2007/US/02/19/hood.rescue/index.html |title=Weighing the risks of climbing on Mount Hood |first=Kristi |last=Keck |publisher=CNN |date=2007-02-20 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070302124925/http://www.cnn.com/2007/US/02/19/hood.rescue/index.html |archive-date=2007-03-02 |access-date=2008-12-19}}</ref>