Jump to content
Main menu
Main menu
move to sidebar
hide
Navigation
Main page
Recent changes
Random page
Help about MediaWiki
Special pages
Niidae Wiki
Search
Search
Appearance
Create account
Log in
Personal tools
Create account
Log in
Pages for logged out editors
learn more
Contributions
Talk
Editing
Model (person)
(section)
Page
Discussion
English
Read
Edit
View history
Tools
Tools
move to sidebar
hide
Actions
Read
Edit
View history
General
What links here
Related changes
Page information
Appearance
move to sidebar
hide
Warning:
You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you
log in
or
create an account
, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.
Anti-spam check. Do
not
fill this in!
===Black models=== The arrival of black women modelling as a profession began in early postwar America. It started most notably from the need of advertisers and a rise of black photography magazines. The women who advanced in such careers were those in a middle-class system emphasising the conservative value of marriage, motherhood, and domesticity. Originally titled the "Brownskin" model, black women refined the social, sexual, and racial realities confined in the gender expectations of the modelling world. There was a profound need for black women to partake in the advertising process for the new "Negro Market".<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Haidarali|first=Laila|date=2005|title=Polishing Brown Diamonds: African American Women, Popular Magazines, and the Advent of Modeling in Early Postwar America|journal=Journal of Women's History|language=en|volume=17|issue=1|pages=10β37|doi=10.1353/jowh.2005.0007|s2cid=144395153|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> With the help of Branford Models, the first black agency, 1946 was the beginning of the black modelling era. Branford Models' was able to "overturn the barriers facing African Americans in the early postwar period," especially by lifting at least one economic freedom.<ref name=":0" /> In this postwar America, the demand for such presence in magazines advanced "as a stage for models to display consumer goods" while assisting "in constructing a new visual discourse of urban middle-class African America".<ref name=":0" /> In March 1966, [[Donyale Luna]] became the first Black model to appear on the cover of the British edition of ''[[British Vogue|Vogue]]''.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9658276/The-tragic-tale-of-Donyale-Luna.html|title=The tragic tale of Donyale Luna - Telegraph|author=|date=9 June 2015|website=fashion.telegraph.co.uk}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/02/01/black-fashion-model-donyale-luna_n_1246588.html|title=Donyale Luna, The First Black Model To Cover Vogue UK (PHOTO)|first=Julee|last=Wilson|date=1 February 2012|publisher=|via=Huff Post}}</ref> While they represented diversity, a major gap in the fashion industry, it was only until the 1970s that black models had a substantial presence in the modelling world. Known as the "Black is Beautiful" movement, the 1970s became the era of the black model. With growing disenfranchisement and racial inequality, the United States recognised the urgency of opening the "doors of social access and visibility to black Americans".<ref name=":1">{{Cite thesis |last=Newman|first=Scarlett L.|date=2017|title=Black Models Matter: Challenging the Racism of Aesthetics and the Facade of Inclusion in the Fashion Industry|url=https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gc_etds/2143|type=MA thesis |publisher=City University of New York |via=Academic Works}}</ref> The world of fashion was the gateway for social change. "The world of fashion was similarly looked to as a place where the culture could find signs of racial progress. Expressions of beauty and glamour mattered. Good race relations required taking note of who was selling women lipsticks and mini skirts, which meant that advertisers began looking for black models"<ref name=":1" /> Black models were looked to as the vehicle of social change. They were given the opportunity to balance out the lack of presence of black individuals in the mainstream culture. Agencies were beginning to scout black models and focus on the social change they were contributing to. ''[[Life (magazine)|Life]]'' magazine in October 1969, covered their issue with [[Naomi Sims]], one of the most influential black models in the industry. Her rise to fame led to her being hired by international magazines and working on individual projects with designers across the globe.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.biography.com/news/naomi-campbell-famous-black-models|title=Naomi Campbell and 10 Black Models Who Owned the Runway|last=Haynes|first=Clarence|date=June 24, 2019|website=Biography|access-date=October 11, 2019}}</ref> In the Life Magazine issue, Black Beauty, a new agency that represented black models, had a spread in the magazine that showcased 39 black models. Each one of the models had unique features, allowing black expression to progress through this historic magazine spread.<ref name=":1" /> With the movement's presence both in magazines and on the runway, designers began to realise the need to include black models on their runways and advertisements. The Battle of Versailles was one of the most notable moments in fashion history that put black models on the map. [[Eleanor Lambert]], creator of Fashion Week and a major "[controller] of the narrative of American fashion", set up a dinner and a fundraiser to both increase American fashion visibility and restore the palace of Versailles.<ref name=":1" /> Five French designers and five American designers battled it out on the runway, showing off the fashion, and for the Americans, black models as well. [[Oscar de la Renta]] stated "it was the black models that had made the difference." [[Pat Cleveland]], [[Bethann Hardison]], [[Billie Blair]], Jennifer Brice, [[Alva Chinn]], and [[The Battle of Versailles Fashion Show|Ramona Saunders]], were among the many black models that helped Team America win and stun the French competition. This competition made the black model a worldwide phenomenon. The French were beginning to welcome diversity on the runway and in their advertising. With the recognition Versailles had given, black presence in the modelling world carried out into the 1980s and the 1990s. The models were now known by name and the publicity that came with the designers they were modelling for. With the rise of the supermodel, models like [[Naomi Campbell]] and [[Tyra Banks]] paved the way for black success.<ref name=":1" /> [[Naomi Campbell]], born in London, was the first black model to cover [[Vogue (magazine)|American Vogue]], [[Time (magazine)|TIME magazine]], Russian Vogue, and the first British black model to cover British vogue. Brands like [[Chanel]], [[Louis Vuitton|Louis Vitton]], [[Balmain (fashion house)|Balmain]], [[Prada]], and more have all featured Campbell in their campaigns. She used her remarkable success to achieve more than fashion excellence. [[File:Tyra Banks 1995.jpg|thumb|alt=Refer to caption|Tyra Banks (1995)]] By the mid-1990s, black presence in the modelling world had dramatically decreased. Designers began to favour a consistent aesthetic and elected for skinnier white models. This reality was paved by models such as [[Kate Moss]] and [[Stella Tennant]], who provided a more consistent look for the runway. At this time, "the number of working black models in high-profile runway presentation... became so dire that stories began appearing in the mainstream media about the whitewashing of the runway".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.thecut.com/2013/09/givhan-confronting-the-lack-of-black-models.html|title=Robin Givhan: Confronting the Lack of Black Models on the Runway|last=Givhan|first=Robin|date=September 6, 2013|website=The Cut|access-date=October 15, 2019}}</ref> In response, models like Campbell, Iman, and Bethann Hardison, joined forces throughout the"Diversity Coalition" in an attempt to "call out and accuse prominent fashion houses for snubbing Black and Asian models on the catwalk, editorial spreads, and campaigns".<ref name=":1" /> The lack of representation was, in part, due to the belief that "black girls don't push products", which "encouraged people who work directly and indirectly in the industry to speak out on the injustices that go on within it".<ref name=":1" /> In the 1990s, it was quite clear that the top designers simply preferred a new aesthetic that excluded models of colour, which resulted in only 6% of runway models to be women of colour.<ref name=":1" /> Campbell's Diversity Coalition's primary mission was to "expedite inclusion on the runway by deliberately calling out designers who have executed acts of racism on the runway".<ref name=":1" /> According to Campbell, it was their choice to not include black models on the runway and desire a uniformed runway that resulted in a racist act. Although such a dramatic effort to exclude black presence from the fashion world, models like [[Tyra Banks]] and [[Veronica Webb]] persisted. Banks not only dominated the runway as a teen, she took over countless pop culture platforms. Being the first black model to cover [[Sports Illustrated]], Banks was one of the most prominent models in the early 2000s. Covering ''[[Sports Illustrated]]'', ''Elle'', ''[[Essence (magazine)|Essence]]'', ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'', and walking for [[Chanel]], [[Christian Dior (fashion house)|Chrisitan Dior]], and Claude Monanta, Banks was truly dominating the fashion world. In addition, she acted in ''Fresh Prince of Bel Air'' and created her own reality competition show called [[America's Next Top Model]].<ref name=":2" /> In conversation with Trebay of Los the New York Times, Banks stated that her first cover on Sports Illustrated "changed [her] life overnight. You have to think back to remember what that did for an appreciation of black beauty to have a black girl, a girl next door type, on the cover of one of the most mass mainstream magazines of our lives. It was a societal statement, a political statement, and an economic one".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/08/style/tyra-banks-sports-illustrated-swimsuit-issue.html|title=At 45, Tyra Banks Is Back on the Cover of Sports Illustrated|last=Trebay|first=Guy|date=May 8, 2019|website=The New York Times|access-date=October 15, 2019}}</ref> Now, models like [[Joan Smalls]], [[Winnie Harlow|Winne Harlow]], [[Slick Woods]], [[Jasmine Sanders]] and more are continuing the fight for black presence in the modelling world and using their successors as inspiration.
Summary:
Please note that all contributions to Niidae Wiki may be edited, altered, or removed by other contributors. If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource (see
Encyclopedia:Copyrights
for details).
Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!
Cancel
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Search
Search
Editing
Model (person)
(section)
Add topic