Editing Kimono (section)

===Terms===
[[File:MET DP277429.jpg|thumb|upright=1.5|Patchwork {{transliteration|ja|[[haori]]}} for [[Japanese tea ceremony|tea ceremony]] ({{transliteration|ja|chabaori}}), {{circa|1800}}; the areas likely to have been damaged are made in another colour. Paper and silk.]]

The fabrics that kimono are made from are classified in two categories within Japan. {{nihongo||呉服|[[Gofuku]]}} is the term used to indicate silk kimono fabrics, composed of the characters {{nihongo3|the Japanese pronunciation of "Wu"|呉|go}}, referring to the [[Wu (state)|State of Wu]] in ancient China where silk weaving technology developed, and {{nihongo3|meaning "clothing"|服|fuku}}.{{r|Valk|p=115}}<ref>{{cite book |title=Daijisen Dictionary |publisher=Shogakukan |quote="呉服 Gofuku, Kure-hatori" 1. A general term for kimono textiles, a bolt of fabric 2. The name of silk fabrics as opposed to Futomono 3. A twill woven with the method from the country of Go in ancient China, Kurehatori (literally translates as a weave of Kure)}}</ref>

The term {{transliteration|ja|gofuku}} is also used to refer to kimono in general within Japan, particularly within the context of the kimono industry, as traditional kimono shops are referred to as either {{nihongo||呉服店|gofukuten}} or {{nihongo||呉服屋|gofukuya}} – with the additional character of {{nihongo||屋|ya}} meaning 'shop'.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Tanaka |first1=Atsuko |title=きもの自分流入門 |date=2012 |publisher=Shogakukan |location=Tokyo |isbn=9784093108041 |page=82 |language=ja}}</ref>

Cotton and hemp fabrics are referred to generally as {{nihongo||太物|futomono}}, meaning "thick materials", with both cotton and hemp yarns being considerably thicker than silk yarns used for weaving. Cotton kimono are specifically referred to in the context of materials as {{nihongo||木綿服|momenfuku}}, "cotton clothes", whereas hemp kimono are known as {{nihongo||麻服|asafuku}}, "hemp clothes", in Japanese, with the character for hemp – {{nihongo||麻|asa}} – also being used to refer widely to hemp, linen and ramie kimono fabrics.

====Merchants' terms====
Until the end of the [[Edo period]], the tailoring of both {{transliteration|ja|gofuku}} and {{transliteration|ja|futomono}} fabrics was separated, with silk kimono handled at shops known as {{transliteration|ja|gofuku dana}}, and kimono of other fibres sold at shops known as {{transliteration|ja|futomono dana}}. Stores that handled all types of fabric were known as {{transliteration|ja|gofuku futomono dana}}, though after the [[Meiji period]], stores only retailing {{transliteration|ja|futomono}} kimono became less profitable in the face of cheaper everyday Western clothing, and eventually went out of business, leaving only {{transliteration|ja|gofuku}} stores to sell kimono – leading to kimono shops becoming known only as {{transliteration|ja|gofukuya}} today.{{Citation needed|date=July 2020}}