Editing Japanese clothing (section)

====Taishō period (1912–1926)====
Western clothing quickly became standard issue as [[kokumin-fuku|army uniform]] for men<ref>{{cite web |author=更新日：2010年11月25日 |url=http://www.ndl.go.jp/horei_jp/kakugi/txt/txt00477.htm |title=戦時衣生活簡素化実施要綱 |publisher=Ndl.go.jp |access-date=2012-07-22 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080616143836/http://www.ndl.go.jp/horei_jp/kakugi/txt/txt00477.htm |archive-date=2008-06-16}}</ref> and school uniform for boys, and between 1920 and 1930, the [[Japanese school uniform|{{transliteration|ja|fuku}} sailor outfit]] replaced the kimono and undivided {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} as school uniform for girls.{{r|Dalby Fashioning Culture|p=140|q=By 1924, girls' school uniforms began to move away from the kimono-and-hakama outfit to the uniform skirt and middy-blouse seen today.}} However, kimono still remained popular as an item of everyday fashion; following the [[Great Kantō Earthquake]] of 1923, cheap, informal and ready-to-wear {{transliteration|ja|[[meisen]]}} kimono, woven from raw and waste silk threads unsuitable for other uses, became highly popular, following the loss of many people's possessions.<ref name="Taisho Kimono">{{cite book |last1=Dees |first1=Jan |title=Taisho Kimono: Speaking of Past and Present |date=2009 |publisher=Skira Editore S.p.A |location=Milano, Italy |isbn=978-88-572-0011-8 |edition= 1st}}</ref> By 1930, ready-to-wear {{transliteration|ja|meisen}} kimono had become highly popular for their bright, seasonally changing designs, many of which took inspiration from the [[Art Deco]] movement. {{transliteration|ja|Meisen}} kimono were usually dyed using the [[ikat]] ({{transliteration|ja|[[kasuri]]}}) technique of dyeing, where either warp or both warp and weft threads (known as {{transliteration|ja|heiyō-gasuri}})<ref name="Taisho Kimono"/>{{rp|85}} were dyed using a stencil pattern before weaving.

It was during the Taishō period that the modern formalisation of kimono and kimono types began to emerge. The Meiji period had seen the slow introduction of kimono types that mediated between the informal and the most formal, a trend that continued throughout the Taishō period, as social occasions and opportunities for leisure increased under the abolition of class distinctions. As Western clothing increased in popularity for men as everyday clothing, the kimono industry further established its own traditions of formal and informal dress for women; this saw the invention of the {{transliteration|ja|hōmongi}}, divisions of {{transliteration|ja|tomesode}} (short-sleeved) kimono for women, and {{transliteration|ja|montsuki hakama}}.{{r|Valk|p=133-134|q=Noriko Harada notes that women in the early 20th century began to attend public events and formal, ritual events more, and as a result, they needed a new kind of formal wear. A particularly savvy invention on the part of the industry was the hōmongi in the Taisho era (1912-1926), which is now women's formal wear par excellence (Harada in Koizumi 2006: 39). Toby Slade writes that by the Taisho period, department stores, many of which started out as kimono shops, were involved in marketing trends in kimono style (Slade 2009: 132; see also Milhaupt 2014: 104-5). In this way, the industry was instrumental in establishing not just trends but the modern rules of the 'kimono canon' itself. Many of these rules had not existed before the 20th century. Many of these rules, such as the montsuki hakama for men, and the hōmongi and tomesode kimono for women, invented in the early 20th century, remain entrenched today. This is the reason why there is a proliferation of types of kimono for women and very few for men: the industry knew that they could no longer expect men to buy kimono, but there was a lucrative market in selling to women and creating ever-expanding types of kimono that women felt they needed to have in order to be equipped for every possible occasion.}} The bridal kimono [[Hope chest|trousseau]] ({{transliteration|ja|oyomeiri dōgu}}), an uncommon practice of the upper classes in the Edo period, also became common throughout the middle classes;{{r|Valk|p=67, 76}} traditions of kimono bridalwear for marriage ceremonies were also codified in this time, which resembled the bridalwear of samurai-class women.{{r|Valk|p=82, 93, 146}} Standards of {{transliteration|ja|kitsuke}} at this time began to slowly graduate to a more formalised, neatened appearance, with a flat, uniform {{transliteration|ja|ohashori}} and a smooth, uncreased {{transliteration|ja|obi}}, which also resembled the "proper" {{transliteration|ja|kitsuke}} of upper-class women. However, {{transliteration|ja|kitsuke}} standards were still relatively informal, and would not become formalised until after World War II.